2015 Street Triple 675R ABS | Clutch Plate Replacement
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- čas přidán 9. 07. 2024
- Learn how to replace your clutch pack and save a bit of money. If you are competent with a wrench, this should be a moderate undertaking. Even if this is your first project, this video should get your sorted and on your way.
Check out the timecodes below for a specific topic.
*** This is a demonstration on how to perform some maintenance tasks. Please refer to your user manual when working on your bike for exact instructions. ***
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• 2015 Street Triple 675...
Timecodes:
0:00 - Intro
0:14 - OEM Plate Overview
0:40 - OEM Required Plates
1:27 - OEM Plate Sequence Animation
2:12 - OEM Clutch Pack Height
2:44 - OEM Oil Change (no video)
3:03 - Clutch Cable
4:32 - Clutch Case Cover
5:23 - Clutch Cover
6:21 - Clutch Pack Disassembly
8:31 - Gasket Removal
9:46 - Clutch Pack Reassembly
15:16 - Gasket Install
15:35 - Clutch Cover Install
17:21 - Clutch Case Cover Install
17:32 - Clutch Cable Bracket Install
17:48 - Clutch Cable Install
17:57 - Clutch Lever Install
18:26 - End - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Fantastic video. The most comprehensive and easily understood one I've come across. Well done. Please post any further STR maintenance you do
Much appreciated Kevin, hopefully have more stuff coming soon. Cheers!
Brilliant video. Thankyou uploader
At 1:44 the sequence shows jutter spring washer - jutter spring - b plate. But at 7:50 when removing you remove jutter spring - b plate - jutter spring washer. Then at 11:14 when you reassemble you do jutter spring washer - jutter spring - b plate.
So when you disassembled the b plate was in between the jutter spring and jutter spring washer, but was reassembled with b plate after the two. Have you had any issues, or was it wrong before?
When disassembling, things have a tendency to move and loosen. I have a shop manual and the assembly is verbatim. But you are correct, it did come out differently as it goes in. Once you start removing the plates, the jutter/washer will move. I should have notated that, but it was my first attempt and didn't realize it. Great question though!
You can keep an eye on it during reassembly to make sure it doesn't come out of its position. I didn't have any issue with it staying in place when I put it back together.
I have not had any issue with the functionality of the clutch. Bike is running strong, but now I realize I should have just put in a slipper clutch too... :)
Happy Wrenching!
@@otobainoronin7877 Right on, thanks for the reply. This is a great guide and I'm surprised how approachable a clutch job is. Appreciate you sharing this
Hey mate. Great video, thank you. Question for you … that roller bearing on the pressure plate… how tight is it in the pressure plate? My bearing was seized. So I can tell if it’s meant to be put in with a drift or just pushed in with fingers.
WRT the gasket. If you put a thin smear or engine oil on it, it stays in place during assembly, makes a better seal and comes off next time
Hello! I thought my bearing were seized as well. But they weren't. Yours might be. But the reason I thought they were seized is when I was incorrectly installing the clutch piece. At first the bearings seem fine, but as the clutch piece started to slip back the bearings on "close" to final installation got tighter. You need to make sure to pull out on the clutch piece every so often when tightening the bolts. Hope this helps! Please ask any questions.
Thanks mate, appreciate it. Yeah no my bearing is trashed… condensate from too many short winter rides. Thanks for your advice bud appreciate it
Hello .
How do you spot the difference between the friction plate A and the test of the friction plates ? Or the friction plate B is the only one different and the friction plate A is the same as the other ones?
Also ,how you spot the difference between the metal plates? I'm talking about the Shape of them not the tiknes
Thank you
On the edges (tabs/teeth) of the A & B plate there will be a color painted on them, mine was green, but they can be different. This will help you distinguish them from the other friction plates. There are also number/codes that are scribed on the plate which will correspond with the packaging/bags they come in. Another way to keep track of them.
I kept these separated from the rest of the friction plates...as not to accidently forget the plates were different.
From my illustration, you can see the difference between the A & B plate. (1:00 mark)
For the metal plates, they will look exactly the same, except the last 2 plates on final install. The shape is the same, you can only really tell the difference by the thickness. So again, I just kept these 2 plates separated from the general metal plates
Apologies for the delayed response, currently in the process of moving.
Hope this makes sense and helps.
Cheers!
Hello, did you ever figure this out? Im having the same problem right now.
Hi friend, i want to ask, after change clutch set also with springs i have hard times to switch gear or push neutral in. Even with tight cable. Old set was 41.1mm and new one is 42mm, where is the problem?
Hello, sorry to hear about your clutch issue. That is a noticeable difference between heights. How bad were the old plates? Was there major wearing along the plates? You may want to check out the clutch cable as it may have worn over time as well with the clutch pack. Now with a new, taller plate stack, the clutch cable may need to be adjusted or replaced. As long as there were no issues installing the clutch plates, I would investigate the clutch cable first. Cheers!
Whats the music in the background?
I would have to check my project file to info, will update once I have it.
I changed it out with the Barnett on my 675R track day bike and it didn't even last the summer. Very disappointed.
Honestly, I tried to go with Barnett first. But there was some weird issue with getting the right plates for my bike. They couldn't tell me what I really needed as their website states some contradictory plate setup for my bike. At first they were nice, but then after, once they could not be certain of what I needed they were a little short. So I went OEM and it's been working great. I could have gone longer on the original plates, but after riding time and track days I figure it is nice preventative maintenance. Cheers!
@@otobainoronin7877 Hey Thanks for taking the time to reply.
That's sad their customer service was bad for you. I think for Harleys they'd be fine, but i won't use them again.
I just ordered the full OEM set. The 675r clutches are a bit different so i paid the extra. And here in Canada, extra is EXTRA!
And Cheers to you too
hello is it same for the 2016 street triple 675 abs ?? @Otobai Ronin ???
Hello, apologies for the non-response. From what I have read and seen, the 3rd generation range are from (2013 - 2016). Not sure what you are looking for, but there will be some cross compatibility from R to non-R. But not everything. Hope this helps.
@@otobainoronin7877 ı have 2016 street triple 675 ABS - ı have some interesting sound the clutch when its neutural. is it same clutch system ?
@@ozguruzun9297 I haven't run numbers for the parts. But here's a link that you can start with. They should be the same. Here is one from UK: www.worldoftriumph.com/collections/bikes/products/street-triple-r-from-vin-560477-to-vin-806645
One from state side: triumphparts.englemotors.com/Triumph_2016_Street-Triple.html
Just check it is within your VIN number and you should be good. The install should be the same procedure.
Thank you @@otobainoronin7877