DIY: LED Tractor Lights
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- čas přidán 5. 01. 2019
- Loader buckets block the headlights. Cheap fix is to put LED lights on the roll bar. Here is how to do it and it can be changed for almost any tractor. I have a Kioti CK2610 model, year 2018.
LED Lights: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...
In Line Fuse: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
12 Volt Relay: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00... - Jak na to + styl
I’m glad I watched this. I was going to buy a led bar light, but I like having 4-5 square lights to be able to position as I like. Thanks
How does This video not rate several thousand views and thumbs up? Very detailed video with easy to follow instructions,.😎inline fuse BTW. Well mapped out,inexpensive, and practical. Even tells you where to buy them. Just based on this video, I'm subscribing.
Thanks for the kind words.
Great video. Great detail and explanation. Thanks!
Really nice well done video. Thanks
Great install video, thanks for sharing. My only suggestion is to add a 12 volt switch. If you ever add lights facing the rear attachments, you'll be able to shut off the forward facing lights.
Good point. Since this I have flipped 2 around.
very nice, well done....
Very good video
Great video. Smart video! I love math, I do it daily lol.. I also have those inline fuses on my light installs. Works great!
Thanks for the comment.
Clap, Clap, Clap. I’m clapping. Nice
Hello. I do not speak English. I would like to know if the relay is black or where the blue wire should be connected?
Thanks for the video, it helped a lot.
A PC power supply converted to use for electronic projects and cords from old vacuum cleaners sounds like the contents of my workshop also.
Heck yeah! I need to make another one. Thought about doing a video on that, but there are so many out there seems silly.
Use a stainless steel pipe clamp with heat shrink tubing around the clamp to mount light brackets on ROP. No drilling no rattles no maring easy.
7:35 Do you have a video on the ammo can toolbox install? I attempted something similar on my 2610 using the rear light mounting spot but it’s just not strong enough. Looks like you also used the two holes on the other side, with a support bar of some kind I’m assuming. Looks clean.
No but that would have been a good one. I welded some metal to the back of the can and then bolted the bracket to the tractor gas tank.
Hey Maker Max Corbett....nice video. I am trying to do this on my CS 2210. I am novice on these type of work.....hence a bit confused on the wiring. Specially the wiring from light to the vacuum cleaner cord to the park light connection. Any chance you can upload a wiring diagram....if possible. Thank you for considering.
I do not have a wire diagram. The relay you buy should come with one you can use. If you want to email me I can draw one up. motorcyclemax@gmail.com
I'm trying to rewire the electricity on my grandfather's tractor (bless his memory), but can't get the front high beams to turn on, I remember there was a light and there was also a high beam, like in a car. How do you do that? do you have any idea?
what about just facing one of the 4 lights facing backwards? Great install.
Thanks! I ended up putting 2 of them backwards.
Where did your power attach to your relay? As well you had two wires coming off the relay to go to the light. Did they both get tied into the power wire from the lights?
I took the main power from the power wire going to the starter solenoid but that is basically the battery positive. I then ran a 12 volt wire from the parking lights to a relay to trip that allowing the battery power to the lights.
Try to get those lights but it said on Amazon it can't find the page
You need a switch or a couple of switches. I don't want the lights lit during the day + you could have a switch for a couple of rear-facing lights if you needed them. Otherwise great video. You also didn't mess with drilling the ROPS like a lot of guys do. That's a big no no.
I did not want to drill or weld to the ROPS as I know you are not supposed to. Mine is switched off the parking lights and they all come on. Not a big deal but I did not want to mount or drill in a switch hole.
For the price you paid you could have gotten a 22 inch bar and had to hook up 2 wires . Soldered joints tend to Crack with a lot of vibration which tractors tend to have. Better option is weather pack connectors. Weather pack kit can be had from Eastwood company for 75 dollars.
Humm, I had not even looked into a long bar. I have since made 2 lights face rearward. I know solder can crack on a circuit board but I have never had them fail on wires. $75 is a lot of money when soldering was about $5. The whole thing is fused so if I have a failure then the fuse will pop. Good suggestions for anyone who is going to repeat this.
You assume the lights are really 27w. The two led lights I use for rear work lights were sold as '40w each'. After measuring the current & voltage they turn out to be just over 20w each.
They are probably lower then the rating. They are bright.
@@MakerMaxCorbett Will the Battery drain more power When more lights are added, Since there's no RECHARGE itself..... ???????
So you have one power wire coming down from the lights, but you have the blue and black wires coming off the relay to power the lights? Not following. The black off the relay goes to ground right? The yellow off the relay is your trigger wire or is the blue? And you tied all the grounds together to one ground connection right? So how do you know the amperage rating of the tractor light switch? Aren't you adding amperage to that switch now? And could I run another switch off the tractor switch for let's say 2 lights just for rear facing so they can't be left on because of the tractor switch but also can independently be switched on.
I don't know the colors off the top of my head and I am not watching it again. When using a relay follow the wiring diagram it comes with. The relay gets a ground to the frame. Then a small 12v supply turns the relay on, in my case from the key switch. When the relay is on it send a large 12v power (amps) through it to the lights. Only 1 wire goes from the relay to the lights. The lights are grounded at the blinker light I think.
@@MakerMaxCorbett if you go and watch it again or just look at your tractor you ran a power line fused from the battery (red wire) and the yellow one went to the switch in the tractor. You stated in the video that both the blue and black wires go to the lights which would be incorrect. I believe the black would be grounded and the blue would be going to power the lights, but the lights themselves are also grounded. But I still am wondering if there's any possibility that the tractor switch could be overloaded. And also if you had a switch AFTER the tractor switch to control rear lights independently, but still would be without power if the tractor key was off.
How come you didn't just get a light bar? Nice job though.
you should to tell us where the wires comes from, on the relay... Relay is 30 85 86 87,,,,30 is power 85 is ground and between 86 and 87 which one goes to the switch and which one goes straight to the lights....
Yes that is something I could have put in there. Thanks for the comment on it.
Great video, ive got a mahindra max and will be putting a light bar on mine before winter. If interested, follow me on my channel K6 Outdoors. Cheers
30 Bucks on Amazon - Great, more support for the Chinese economy
I hear you but find me some Made in USA lights that are under $300. The device you watched the video on was made in China.
Maker Max Corbett
I know, it’s a damned shame. Not sure you can find LED’s made in North America.
Hopefully this Pandemic brings more changes here at home in Canada