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John Deere 1025R Blinding LED Upgrade
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- čas přidán 28. 02. 2021
- Awesome LED Upgrade for John Deere 1 Series Tractors, or any sub-compact tractor!
Affiliate Links to parts used in this video:
John Deere ROPS Light Brush Guard - amzn.to/3kuuN72
18" LED Bar - amzn.to/3q8wqs1
4" LED Pods, 4 Pack - amzn.to/37XdXbQ
Electrical Bullet Connector Kit - amzn.to/3w4esKw
14 gauge wire - amzn.to/3kzCUit
Split Wire Loom - amzn.to/3bPpOcZ
Electrical Tape - amzn.to/3bPpOcZ
Zip Ties - amzn.to/3uExCqF
I tried the LED's on top of my flashers but found they blinded me. I removed them and added a light bar on the under side of my ROPS like you and i love it. I also changed all existing light bulbs to LED. I enjoy your video's. Kent from PEI
Thanks Kent!! That bar in the ROPS really does make a big difference. Glad to hear it’s working out well for you too!
Huge improvement!
Another way for me to stick out in the neighborhood. If the tractors weren’t enough, now I’ve got annoying bright lights too! 😂
Nice! Now you can swap out the headlights and fender bulbs with LED. When it gets warm I want to add a LED on each side of the ROPS like you did. Wish I had your skill for wiring.
It does make a good bit of difference! I am comfortable with the wiring. It’s really not too difficult. You can handle it for sure! Thanks Bob.
@@TractorHoarders Waiting for it to get warm out. I know swapping out the headlight and fender bulbs with LED makes a huge difference too. I will keep you posted. How close are you? What are you doing this Saturday? haha
Holy hell that's bright!
Works so great for night work! No visibility issues at all.
Awesome, thanks for sharing
Thank you Don! It was a fun project. Doesn't take long to do, cost is fairly low, and it really does help out at night. I'll be adding some more stuff and making a part 2 video at some point.
very cool! Thanks for sharing...
Thanks Mike!
Nice !
Thanks Mac! Relatively cheap upgrade and well worth it!
Did you ever make a part 2 for the light upgrades? I cannot find which LED bulbs to use to replace the front headlights and fender lights. I only need the fender lights to be brighter. I have a 2015 1025R.
My husband did all the wiring and used your parts listed. Worked out great! Thanks for sharing this
Hello! I never made a proper video for it but I do have the information you need. You can go to Auxito.com and use discount code “tractorhoarders”… see this short video: czcams.com/users/shortsEbWAOkWbyLg
There’s this one too that I forgot about: czcams.com/video/fOtUMN5AVuU/video.html
the link to the "Electrical Bullet Connector Kit" goes to the 4" LED lights, same as the one above it. Can you post the link to the connectors you used?
Thanks for pointing that out, I updated my video description. I believe this is the kit I used: amzn.to/3w4esKw . I found it difficult to purchase small quantities of these. Fortunately, the kits are pretty cheap.
I have some concerns about powering the lights. I went to the link you supplied for the four 4" and it appears to be different then the ones you installed, 72 watts verses 60 watts, yours being the 60 watts, from what I could tell. That fine, so the four 4" need a total of 120 watts or 10 amps. The light bar draws 108 watts or 9 amps. Total amps for all LED lights 19 amps. So, the wiring you tied into under the seat, does it have it own fuse? Or is it sharing the same fuse with the side lights and did you have to change out the fuse size? Thanks much, Jon
Hi Jon! Great question and circuit calculations. I did not replace the fuse. I don’t even know what the circuit amperage capacity is, but some of the original optional lighting for these tractors that used that harness was for halogen lights which had a pretty decent draw. That being said, I have never had any issues. I believe that that harness uses the same circuit as the other lights, so my original plan was to swap out the OEM lights for LED, but I haven’t had issues and my charging system has no issue keeping the system fully charged, so I have left it alone. I appreciate your question as I have background in electrical engineering. Thanks and good luck! If I can help in any other way, let me know.
@@TractorHoarders Just dug a little deeper and found a picture of fuse panel and fuse description. There is a 20 amp fuse used for fender and "optional" work lights, which must be the tied to the wiring bundle you tied into. So, might be pushing the fuse, if the linked 72 watt lights are used. That would push the total amps for the LED add-ons to 21amps. Also, the draw of the original work lights would have to be added in to that same circuit. Later, Jon
The one thing I hate about the lighting is if you put the High Beems on it turns off the Hazards!
I’m thinking to rewire it to beable to keep them on. I drive my tractor to the gas station 3 blocks from my home to fill her up.
I agree with that. I think it would be nice to control them independently, and have thought of doing a similar mod.
It Always concerns me using factory wiring.
Over draw melt something & void your warranty. I think I’d rather run my own lines.
The existing wiring harness with bullet connectors at the bottom of the ROPS is there for this specific application, so as long as you pay attention to your current draw, any risk is minimal. If you buy the LED work light kit from JD, it connects the same way, using the same circuit.
Makes those side front lights obsolete.
Chevy Chase would be proud!
haha, that's perfect! I just happened to watch Christmas Vacation several times here in the last few weeks lol
A little excessive for two parking spots in a cul-de-sac, no?
It’s three parking spots. Big difference. 😆
I'd be disconnecting the o.e.m. headlights,
You can also purchase LED replacement bulbs for those. I looked at them and didn't feel the lighting difference justified the cost. If one of them burns out, that'll probably trigger me to replace them. It'll probably be a while though!