🔴 Why In The Heck Does One Bayonet Cost Twice As Much As The Other ?
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- čas přidán 16. 04. 2019
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Matthew Hoover 83631509
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Understand I’m not a lawyer nor have I played one in a movie the things I talk about in my videos are strictly for conversation or entertainment purposes only!
Do they make ar 15 Bayonets? May be dumb question but I never heard of one. I would like to have one.
Not a dumb question at all
Yes both of these will work on an A.R. 15
But..... you need to have the right barrel length gas system combination
14” carbine length
16” Mid length
20” rifle length
No you could put the M9 on a carbine length it will look like this I’ll post a picture
But for a carbine length A.R. 15 you need a bayonet with the 7 inch handle
photos.app.goo.gl/sKUvCuHqzqDSn1n57
If you can find an old surplus M7 bayonet (I have one kicking around somewhere), that will work just fine too. But either of these are probably better if you want something practical that'll actually cut. I mean the surplus one will too but you'll probably have to completely reprofile it, they usually don't come sharp at all.
@@knottheory79220 a practical bayonet is not a cutting tool at all. That is why they are not sharp. You thrust a bayonet into your enemy twist (develop), recover and repeat. If something needs cut use a knife.
Alex Barry however, your also trained to slash. So a sharp blade with a chamfered dull tip seems to be perfect!
I got my Ontario bayonet from an Afghan army soldier that lived with us on our COP. I traded him a crappy digital camera for it.
Nice
The back side near the tip for wire cutting isn't meant to be razor sharp. It needs to be a little blunt to serve the purpose as a wire cutter.
~A Sharp Knife is a Safe Knife.
~I have Bayonets for my AK, AR and my beloved M14, but I have not yet used them for anything purposeful.
~My collection consist of original AK Bayonets as well as the M6, M7 and M9 US Bayonets, in addition to the M6 I brought back from my tour in Vietnam.
Thank you for the feedback I appreciate you taking the time to leave a comment
Ty for your service bro
Blood grooves isn’t a thing. Fullers are put in to make the blade lighter by giving the blade more surface area with the amount of material being used.
I was going to say something, glad you said it first.
Huh,m well.... Smith and Wesson' own information on the blade calls it a blood grove too.... soooooo. :/
Doesn't make Smith & Wesson right it's called a fuller ask any bladesmith
They also make the blade stiffer.
Blood grooves make it easier to pull out the knife cuz there is less surface area on the knife touching the flesh
I know its an old video but hopefully by now someone has told you that a blood groove is literally just a way to expand the metal without adding weight. The blood suction thing is a myth and wouldn't work anyway because the groove doesn't extend out to the end of the knife. If anything that design would create slightly more vacuum.
Exactly this. The reason a blade gets stuck is because you hit bone, not due to any sort of vacuum sealing.
The saw back is not designed to saw through wood and stuff. it's designed to help you escape through sheet aluminum and Plexiglas like in a crashed helicopter. Which I once did while I was in the army and in a Blackhawk that got shot down. This was pre M9 days and I was using an air force survival knife, but it worked to get my buddy out of the aircraft.
Wait so if i but it to cut some wood.. it can break the knife or something?
Mostly for cutting notches
Tell us the story of getting shot down
It just means it isnt optimized for it
@@mmh6861 no, but if you use a metal cutting sawzaw blade to cut wood it will take forever.
Both the blade and scabbard of the S&W Bayonet look identical to the $35 Wartech Bayonet. I wouldn't be surprised if they're both made by some Chinese OEM.
Cause it says Smith and wesson on it. Probably only difference
yup that is what i said and then i found your comment below. bump.
Mine came decently sharp, I couldn't saw my hand over it like you described. However the point is very very sharp. Deadly sharp. With a few minutes of work it could cut paper no problem.
Thank you for the feedback
There are stories about trench warfare, if your bayonet does get stuck, firing a round into the enemy body will help the bayonet break free from the body
I’ve heard of this it’s definitely something that needs to be tested
I’m extremely curious if it would actually make a difference
Good to know - hope I never need to use that bit of knowledge.
Using the leverage of the rifle should not be a problem.
I remember reading that in a WW2 book too. The author mentioned that one of his buddies asked the drill sergeant why they would be bothering with a bayonet if they still had bullets in the gun. Yeah... he had a rough day after that.
Anyway, I think the point was to reload and then fire. It probably worked great for a 30-06 M1 Garand, but would be marginal for a .556 AR.
I would have thought that if I had a round in the chamber I would not have used the bayonet in the first place?
It's OK to buy Italian made pizza lol
Haha
Your comment about the machinist cutting his material cracks me up! That's not how it works making part in large quantities. I think the forged hilt would be faster and cheaper to make than machined part? I doubt the hilt would ever break on either one? And the blood grooves thing, that's to build strength to the blade, I don't think anyone that's been stabbed to death ever had a problem with the knife getting stuck 😂
I have the S&W bayonet. I've trained and shot a good bit with it attached. Never had an issue. It's actually a pretty sturdy knife. My only complaint is the edge is so thick it is hard to sharpen. Then again, you don't want your bayonet to have a razor edge in case you have to go prone with it attached. Accidents happen.
I've got a question... I'm a beginner at this whole knife thingy.. i know a little than before watching videos.. and I realized that this knife is not actually for survival.... Splitting rope, ect'.. but I want that knife to my birthday and I believe that this knife can handle cutting ropes.. cutting some small trees maybe.. and be useful to making some fire easily.
What's ur opinion about that?
I think so
@@CRSFirearms kk thanks 💯
I say invest in a good Ka-bar or Bowie knife that can do anything. A bayonet is only good for poking and wirecutting.
The S&W has a pouch for a sharpening stone, I like that, but the sheath will not fully set down when on the gun. Had to cut a small grove to get it to set down all the way.
I bought a M-9 bayonet that was just under $40 and is a serious piece of equipment. Fully sharpened. Not my last knife but an important one in my arsenal
every video I’ve seen of people reviewing the OKC M9 people have said the blade is dull or rusted and chewed up where are y’all getting these from I bought it straight from a okc dealer and mine is perfect.
i ran through the bayonet course a few times when I was in the Army. Bayonetting things is exhausting.
How wide is the handle on the Smith & Wesson? My M&P Sport 2 did not come with the bayonet lug (lucky me). I am thinking about getting 1 or 2 1" (or so) rail mounts to mount one on. I am not sure if that is a good idea or not do you?
Have the earlier Ontario M9 on my 590A1 and it’s awesome. It was fairly sharp, but not really sharp. Have no real intention of using it for anything unless I actually have to use it one day. You never know.
Thank you for the feedback I appreciate you taking the time to leave a comment
I wonder if my sport 2 can take that S&W bayonet I don’t need it and it’s so impractical but I feel the need to have it 😂
that's why the Chinese and French bayonets are triangular spikes , tapered hole , not worth a damn for cutting anything , but pull out easier than a flat blade .
I did not know that thank you for taking the time to leave the comment
Also doesn't hurt the blade when they drop their riffle. 😉
I ordered an m-9 and am anxiously waiting for it to come in, I’ll take the official issue that I had and know the quality
It’s a spear before it’s a knife lol
Meant as a thrusting weapon
I have a military surplus beyonet that has spray painted number that I matched on the A2 rifle.
I wish the scabbard would fit on the beyonet while on the rifle.
Those serrations on the spine of the Ontario is not a saw, it's meant to shred the top of the wound cavity on the initial thrust to your target, that's why it doesn't cut wood that well, its basically a meat shredder.
Great video... I have been looking for a bayonet to add to my AR (nobody I know has one on any of their builds..).....per the usual great info... Be blessed bro
Thank you I appreciate the compliment
Where do I get a leather cars? Just wondering. a can opener you need a p-38. Thats what we got in the RVN. I may have one around, loops probly not. I can look.
I have an M9 and I took it apart and fit a solid tang via a piece og galvanized pipe fited to the blade tang and a hardened steel roll pin placed through the handle/ pipe. Then I drove the nylon handle over that and added stacked leather over the end with the locking attachment so it is able to fit a carbine AR15. The handle is a little longer and there is no chance of the tang breaking off. Its tough as nails.
I love my Ontario M9 it looks awesome on my 590A1 btw..it’s called a fuller not a blood groove.
purchased the ontario. actually came sharp enough to shave with out of the box, not that i would lol. Id take that over the smith any day as its made in the us, and has a lifetime warranty.
Bayonet is important! I definitely want one for all fighting shotguns I have .
Good tool for desperate times of need .
Agreed
Generally, 400 series (420? 440?) Stainless which the Smith and Wesson are made from is generally considered soft steel, especially when you compare it to 1095. Since they don't list it as an HC (High Carbon) it will be more flexible, in the cold, then say AUS8. 1095 is more durable and will keep an edge longer than 400 stainless, and I gotta say, hundreds, if not thousands of 1095 Kabars have been used and abused over the years, without breaking a tip. It really depends on it it is a clip point, and the grind angle. Ontario Air force survival knives are 1095, and the tip is known for breaking, though I have never broken mine. Victorinox used 420 (and 440?) steel and is considered soft, easily bent, easily dulled. AUS8 is known to be tough stainless, but I have found it to be brittle in the cold, and 1095 to be more forgiving.
Never had a problem with Victorinox. Try out the Alox Hunter Pro.
My question is why does a single Ontario m9 bayonet cost as much as a good shotgun (Maverick 88)? Bayonet is a simple knife no matter how you look at it and it's not complicated to manufacture.
The Smith and Wes comes with a sharpening stone in the back we take the cover apart part
I believe the ltl pouch on the side is for a sharpening stone, a small one but sure would be better than nothing. Peace!
I believe you are correct
You're right. I have one and the wet stone is very handy.
Like you said, S&W is better for cutting and using as a knife, but Ontario m9 is made for combat using such as piercing, cutting wire, tough and sturdy works... And due to the pressure comes on it's blade, it must be blunt. Thanks for comparing both in a video. I suggest you to also compare Buck 188 bayonet with them.
All of my bayonets seem to be sharp. I have never sharpened any of them. I used an M7 when I was in the Army. I still have it and love it.
Nice
It makes me wonder, if you put the ontario grip pommel and gaurd on the smith and wesson if that'd make it a better knife?
Also "blood" groves that may help in retrieving your knife but that is not the original intention it's for making the knife lighter and stronger
Great info, was just wondering what the difference might be.
Hi ~ Knife Guy again. The Ontario has actual saw potential even with the forward stroke. What the S&W has (and most Rambo knives etc, are Not really for sawing wood or anything else. Most folks think those ridges on the spine are a "Saw", but they are not. All ridged spines like that are copied from the Randall "Survivor" knife from his forge during Viet Nam. What they were made to do is to Rip-out the aluminum sides of downed helicopters. Other blades sometimes have a sort of saw on the spine, (like the old Marble's Pilot Survival knife) but the Big notches ya usually see were put there by Randall for a specific purpose. On a bayonet like the M-9 those ridges would make a horrible "Harpoon" effect. Very nasty.
Good Luck ~ You have a great channel. Thanks for all the work you put into it ! B.
the saw works fine for me though, it's not perfect but it works fine. And this is a knife made primarily for killing, and cutting through someones throat, Not sawing wood.
I know it's an older video, Just watched it. So now I have a question for everybody. I have a PSAK 47 GF3, does anybody know where I can get a bayonet for it?
I got the Smith & Wesson Special Ops M-9 Bayonet with a black powder spear point blade and a textured nylon handle from Big5 for about $30 the s&w site has it priced at $109. The edge has a notched spine and deep grooves. Included is a black scabbard with a large storage pouch, a sharpening stone, and wire cutters It was the last one big 5 had so I got lucky on price only thing I did replace the sharpening stone with a much better wet stone
Features:
Blade Length: 7.8"
Overall Length: 12.8"
Weight: 0.9125lb
Blade Material: 420J2 Stainless Steel
Handle Material: Thermoplastic Rubber
I've always wanted to know the difference between the M9 and M11 knife (other than the lack of a bayonet lug)
I thought about getting a S&W bayonet off Amazon for my Ruger 556, but I kept reading and seeing pictures about how no standard bayonet will fit right. I can't find anything on any remedy to that either,I've just been assuming there isn't one.
The standard being that will fit on an A.R. 15 with a 16 inch barrel and a mid length gas system
You can also stick it on a carbine length gas system and it will work just not ideally
Did you make bayonets was 7 inch handles that will fit perfectly on a carbine length gas system with a 16 inch barrel
I posted a picture of what it would look like at the top of the comments of this video
@ Rawhead Rex I have gotten an M7 bayonet to fit on the Ruger AR 556, but from what I remember (it's been a awhile) it was pretty tight once locked in. Some people have said bayonets they've used (M7 or M9) have also been pretty tight, some fairly loose, and yet still some will not lock on properly at all....it's tough to say what you'll get for bayonet fit when you purchase one of those.
Yeah Idk,it's not something that's ever meant too much to me so it's questionable if I ever worry with it. I just noticed one day,I might have had the rifle a few months and was like "how about that,this one has a bayonet lug" lol I have so many Bowie knives,Kukris, machetes and switchblades anyway....I'm good on blades lol
good review, i would say tho that the grind profile is claimed to be flat beveled so that could be why the one you got looked the way it did
What was the price difference?
Let me know when a light saber that can actually cut something comes out.
Hell no
Because I want to be the first want to own it Lol
@@CRSFirearms look up hack smith. It’s pretty cool
Damn I’m 36 and I learn something new every day.
Thanks
well i did like these baonets for several reasons until you said they were both not full tang,i think the price is way too high for a knife thats got the issues you pointed out.Perhaps cold steel will make one that is full tang and without the issues.
Right on
I was actually researching bayonets when this video came out
Nice
Perfect timing
@@CRSFirearms but does the smith fit the MP.
Bayonets by design are supposed to be blunt to cause more trauma to the body if you have a sharp blade you make a clean cut if you have a dull by design knife like a bayonet it makes a hell of a dirty cut . I was bummed out in boot camp when I got my first bayonet the realization it could barely cut open an MRE and only by stabbing into it kinda a let down once in the fleet you realize you gotta buy one a good knife two make yourself a field survival kit to put in your pack and a lot of Pogie bait because to many MRE meals make for a sticky number 2 if you know what I mean!
I would’ve been so bummed out they would’ve got me to shut up about it
i thou;ght the grooves were a way to reduce weight while keeping the strength. like an I beam
Man this dude is AWESOME!
The grooves on the combat knives are intended to cause a pneumotorax, in simple words, to make a cannelure to get in external air in to the chest (or tórax), and colapse the lung, to inhabilitate the oponent ! In the M9 the serrations are intended to cut metal ! The last thing anybody want in a fight is to loose your knife or bayonet or your rifle with a bayonet because it get stick/attach in your ennemys body, thing that could happen with the saw in the S&W !
Excellent comment and thank you
Same here go with the ontario.I bought a shrader, has cheaper steel, no wire cutter, and serrations. it would be better to havethicker blade to hammer on. best comment is you need a mid length gas system, a carbine gas systen cuts your knife down to just a few inches. things I learned after buying...
Thank you for the comment
I got the smith and Wesson m9, paint scratches very easily to the point where the sheath is tearing it apart
Most S&W knives aren't made very well from my experience with them. Maybe the M9 is worth trying but not if it over $70. The blade being non-full tang is one of the reasons I haven't added 1 to my collection. It's in bad need of a redesign!
Took me around four hours to re profile my blade with my Ruixin sharpener with diamond stones. Shave sharp.
I'd say it would be useless in modern combat (unless it's close contact)
But it could be useful in a zombie Apocalypse
Right on
@@CRSFirearms check this out and look at how he uses a bayonet
czcams.com/video/KvMWEsejG2Q/video.html
Haha bad ass
A bayonet makes most sense on a bolt action rifle or a shotgun. Shotguns are close range and limited magazine capacity, so an additional close quarters weapon could be a lifesaver. Bolt actions, due to time spent chambering and aiming a round, benefit from an "always on" weapon. People think that bayonets fell out of favor due to the decline in trench warfare, but I think it's moreso the fact that guns are faster now and have high capacity magazines. An M16 can dump 1,000 rounds per minute, and a highly skilled Mauser or Springfield rifleman could only hope to get 30 rounds per minute off on a good day.
you had me a taiwan. no i knew the s&w would be made in some asian sweat shop. OKC is made 50 miles from me in Franklin NY.
Put an edge on it all you like it just won’t stay there. I use my okc m-9 to dig up weeds mend fences and throwing it. It’s made the way it is so it’ll be modulated. If one part fails it can be disassembled and replace the part(s) as needed. Ontario bonds the hilt to their tang but earlier models the sheath could be used to remove the screw on tang. In my opinion though M-9’s are over built pieces of crap and you should get the okc 3s that Ontario also makes. It’s a superior bayonet/knife that functions well as a knife or bayonet. The M-7 isn’t bad either.
Do you live in Wisconsin? I'm in Milwaukee, it seems like most to a or gun videos are made in Wisconsin it freaks me out
I have an Ontario M9 (used by a military unit) and had no trouble at all getting a good edge on it in 5 minutes. the wire cutter works well and will cut nails and fence wire, but not hardened spring wire. The reason the blade does not go through the handle is so you can cut electrical wire without getting shocked. Also, there is a YT video where someone put the M9 on a rifle, impaled the blade in a block of wood, and bent the knife until it failed. It took a lot of force, leverage, and working back and forth to get the knife to break. That FRP handle is very strong and you will not break this bayonet with your hands.
Unfortunately there is no insulator to break ground to the end like in Russian bayonets. That electric fence gonna bite. 😉
Hi and are they both made in the usa ?? And i got a Bayonet at a gun show and on the bayonet it tells me made in China and how good are this bayonet ??
I think s&w is China
Okc USA
I'd prefer the dulled OKC...if I need to use it, then I'm gonna rip and tear until it is done....you can't stitch that up! Lol
Todd K no
@@bongwaterbaptist
Lol, I hope you realized I was being facetious.
@@toddk1377 you is right
You do Honest reviews
I have a version of the S&W that got just for fun...it cool for what it is. If I remember correctly, there is sharpening stone glued into the plastic of the sheath under the strap. I don't think you mentioned it :)
if it was north Italian made it was most likely Chinese made. Chinese bought up a lot of factories in northern Italy.
Back thrust is always better.
7:28 not trying be mean but that's some Rambo lore
Good info, still in search of a good MOR one quality vs price. But hey, “Italy” comment? You’ve heard of Beretta right? lol
That was the joke
I have to doublecheck but I’m pretty sure I kea is Swiss
CRS Firearms
Yeah, just busting chops. But good bayonet info, thanks.
Thank you I appreciate you taking the time to leave comments you do I like every single one of my videos
Sharp bayonets don't tear flesh as well as full ones. It makes wound repair more difficult than a nice cut.
I cannot speak to the Smith bayonet but there were something like 450,000 M9s produced. It will accommodate M4 carbine length carbines and shotguns on up. It is also a thick and wide blade that is more of a knife than a spear point bayonet like the M7. It is stainless steel. All these features and more make it cost more. The M7 is a parkerized carbon steel spear point blade and there were over 3,000,000 produced. It has one job and that is a bayonet unlike the M9 that can be used for multiple jobs. The M7 will not accommodate M4 carbine length carbines and shotguns. It will accommodate M4 mid length carbines on up. So production numbers and the blade composition/features play a big role in a bayonet's price/value. Then there are new and surplus bayonets that also play a role in price/value. I have plenty of knives but I wanted a bayonet for my M4 mid length so I got the M7.
The m9 is the same
14 inch barrel carbine length
16 inch barrel mid length
20 inch barrel rifle length
@@CRSFirearms The M7 will not fit a carbine length M4 but the M9 will. The M7 will fit a mid length M4. It has to do with the distance of the front sight gas block/bayonet lug from the muzzle. The front sight gas block on a carbine length is shorter than a mid length from the muzzle. The newer M9 will fit most anything but the older M7 will not.
Oh I know
The M9 has a 5 inch handle
You need a 7 inch handle to fit a carbine length 16 inch barrel
Bayonets are typically not supposed to be sharp, because it makes them harder to retrieve as they can cut into the bone so when you twist you’ll either snap your edge or twist the body too. Bayonets are a stabbing weapon primarily now it not being razor sharp is excusable but it being so blunt you can saw on your hand is ridiculous.
I have a M9 bayonett (smith and Weldon)
You should get the Ontario OKC 3S Bayonet/ I's pricey but definitely a badass Bayonet that's full tang. I don't agree on what you said, I would rather have a high carbon steel than a stainless. That's why stainless is cheaper than high carbon blades. I have a Cold Steel Recon Tanto in SK5 and it's RH is 63-65 and it can pierce steel drums and still cut paper!! Can't do that with a stainless steel blade flawlessly!
Nice good feedback
Don't believe the top edge is suppse to be sharpened , it's "eased" for a reason but not sharpened for cutting , by easi g it it makes it easier to plunged
to remove a stuck bayonet, either use your foot or pull the trigger and blow them off.
Okc is an actual issue for gi's and are good quality
Lancay & Ontario here! Don't use them, just collect. Would like to get a Probis, cost way too much!
The S&W does not have an NSN . If you sell to uncle sam you can gouge the hell out of them .
Thank you for the feedback
That screw driver is not there to take apart the bayonet.That is why the Marine's OKC 3S does not have a screw driver or a way to take bayonet apart.
This guy doesn't know anything about knives. Also IKEA is Swedish not Italian. Don't ever disrespect.
I've used my esee knifes for opening a can they had no problem so the 1095 snapping isn't a think I like your video's but your definitely miss informed on that one
There’s no suction on the blade when you stab something. Take just a second and think about it. How many thousands of pounds of pressure would be needed to hold that thin blade in meat if it’s even possible?
Any bayonet that will fit an M-16 will work with an AR-15 as long as it has a bayonet lug.
Bayonets are a stabbing weapon. I've heard they're NOT supposed to be sharp. The reasoning I've heard as to why is that if you actually had the bayonet on a rifle and used it to stab someone then a sharp bayonet is more apt to cut its way deep into bone and then potentially be very difficult to get out of someone. A dull bayonet will either crack a bone or at least not cut as deeply and therefore allow it to come out of the stabbed person more easily. I know that bayonets are, or at least were, issued dull. I've heard in Vietnam, sharpened bayonets were confiscated and replaced with dull ones.
what u got the hat on front. 🤔
I thought it was against the Geneva convention to have your bayonet sharpened in combat I don't know about today but I have a lot of antique bayonets that have no sharpness at all and some that have been sharpened
You would need to add an abrasive compound to your belt to actually do much to a knife edge. It would be like trying to sharpen steel with a cleanex.
Bro, it’s not a cutting device. It’s a stabbing device. Also, you remove the bayonet by pulling the trigger. USMC tips 🙂
Didn't know ikea was Italian?
I couldn't imagine breaking a bandit blade on a tin can, no matter what kind of steel, my hound dogs demolish tin cans in seconds.
I actually have bayonetted a living creature, a woodchuck in my backyard. Old Mauser bayonet on matching stock, no barrel. After 3 thrusts I left the vermin pinned until he died. Had no issues withdrawing the blade. Bugger just wouldn't quit.
Ikea is from Sweden not Italy.
Lol you're right.
I own many S&W knives. They are OK, some better than others. I own a couple Ontario military knives. Apples and oranges. The Ontario knives are top notch. You really do get what you pay for. I wouldn't get the S&W bayonet. Pony up and get the Ontario M9. Yes, it's more expensive but worth every penny.
A bayonete is not a knife and therefore is not supposed to be sharp. Bayonetes are for stabbong, not cutting. When I was in the Army, we weren't allowed to sharpen our bayonetes. The M9 is one of the worst bayonetes ever issued. They are heavy and intended to do too many things. I'd rather have an M7 over an M9 any day. There is also no such thing as a "blood groove" they are called fullers and are meant to lighten the blade while retaining strength. Any other explanation for them is wrong and a myth. There is no vacuum formed when you stab someone and a fuller will not make any difference in the difficulty in pulling the blade out. And the original "saw back" design is not intended to cut wood. It is mainly intended to cut through the thin metal of aircraft skin and to aid in pushing the metal out and away from you using the notches to catch on the edges so you can make a hole to get out through, and to cut through rope and thin vines. It is not made to cut wood and that should be very obvious by it's design. Don't waste your money on an M9 for survi al or hinting purposes, you eill be disappointed. They only offer the "tacticool" factor and are not practical for anything other than their intended uses.
Didn't know IKEA was Italian, LOL
You forgot the bottle opener.
Where are you from? Minnesota or Wisconsin? 😆
IKEA is swedish just saying!! The can opener..lol
Practically the same thing lol