Here's The Problem With 1999-2006 Chevrolet GMC Truck STEERING CLUNK!! AND HOW TO FIX!!
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- čas přidán 29. 10. 2020
- Here's The Problem With 1999-2006 Chevrolet GMC Truck STEERING CLUNK!! AND HOW TO FIX!!
Here's The Problem With 1999-2006 Chevrolet GMC Truck Intermediate Steering Shaft CLUNK!!
This 1999-2006 GMT800, Sierra, Silverado, Yukon, Tahoe and Suburban full-size truck intermediate steering shaft clunk problem has been thoroughly addressed by many online. Dorman, the aftermarket automotive part company, makes a replacement part to the factory unit that is supposedly updated to fix the issues that the original part had. Well, after just a couple of years with my replacement part, I'm having to replace the intermediate steering shaft bearing ( Dorman 905-512 ) again. I've also replaced the actual intermediate steering shaft around the same time I replaced the bearing just to be safe and to "never have to worry about this again". That didn't work out. Good thing it's relatively easy to replace!
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Here's the Dorman part: amzn.to/31V0kqI
www.1roadgarage.com
**This channel is for entertainment purposes only! Do not do what I do. Do not take my advice. I am not a professional. The methods I use may be completely wrong and/or dangerous. Please seek professional help with anything and everything and do your own due diligence (research). Working on cars is extremely dangerous. I am not responsible for any loss of life or limb or property. DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH. THIS CHANNEL IS FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY!**
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I'm a 53 year old woman and I got pissed looking at my husband's GMC pick-up in the driveway for 6 months because he couldn't/wouldn't change the water pump and fix the inner door handles. Watched your videos, fixed it all in two days while doing laundry, cooking meals, and tending the garden! Thank you for making me a better man than any man I know!
Thanks, good Job…… Interestingly,actually, my feeling GMC STUFF / work is **People Labor**…. We have a 2007 CANYON LS, ETC….though ,”seems better & less hassle”than some GMCS .,,…..
You’re awesome 😂 the world needs more women like you
Sounds like a divorce is impending……
sounds like depression. not fixing easy things
Garage Mans Companion
Amazing coincidence. My daughter’s Power Wheel’s Jeep has the exact same part.
I’d buy that for a dollar !
Hahaha, its why i looked at the video too!
Yeah GM keeps them safe from early on, and they make parts for others, lol 😆.
All Jeeps use parts like this 🤪
Lighting and photography on this video was exceptional. Congratulations !!
All manufacturers use cheap plastic everywhere. We want affordable cars but still want all the features. We also want good paying jobs, like the auto industry. In the other hand we want everything to be built with durability in mind. You can't have both. I was an gm tech for 10 years, work on many brands. They are all the same and have their own list of problems. Now i work production in an auto plant. I see the tremendous cost of building a vehicle. When our plant goes down for any reason it costs us 32,000 $ a minute. If you ate buying used look up the typical problems and decide if you can live with that. If not find a list you can live with. Great video.
When I worked for GM I fixed 100's of clunking columns. This was only the problem a few times. The fix that worked for 90% of the time was where the splines of the drive shaft are next to the exhaust. They use a plastic coating that gets slack in it after heating up over time.
Yeah , I have to lube mine every of couple years , and customers.
Gm had a line kit , an injector syringe , with grease and a rubber plug .
Have a 2000 Yukon that has looseness in the steering column but also a driveline clunk going from forward to reverse and back to forward. I’m told that it is not a ring and pinion issue. When you said “driveshaft” next to exhaust I are you are talking about the steering shaft or the driveshaft? Thanks Joey for your input.
@@garyshel7490 ,
He is referring to the steering shaft .
Does the new replacement AC Delco shafts fix this design flaw?
That part is junk! It should be metal. That part is designed to fail.
Typical GM. Seriously ball bearing on plastic?
Dorman parts are famous for failing pretty quickly.
the main issue when it doe syou have no steering it's a real screw up things like this the steering should have NO plastic this includes the brakes and fuel lines
We are driving piles of plastic these days
@@s99614 that’s if they work at all at first
One tip I will share that should reduce wear on all steering related components, from column to tie rod ends.
Never turn the steering wheel unless the vehicle is rolling. It takes far more effort to turn a static wheel even if you don't feel the extra effort because your power steering is assisting you.
Of course there is always the circumstance where you have to turn the wheel while stopped but I have trained myself to avoid that when possible.
Good advice, but seems damn near impossible driving a truck in parking lots and backing in trailers
You kind of have to do it whenever you are backing up to park and you have to get into position at an angle.
Another 1 is some people have a ton of stuff on their key rings, and when they put them in the ignition, thats alot of weight pulling it downwards risking breaking the ignition lock prematurely.
Wow, this is a good tip. Definitely watching out for that now.
Thanks for the information ! I makes me understand very well !!!
The important aspect is GM saved 8 cents by making this part so junky.
They do that on too many systems, their vehicles are junk, throw away in 5-7 years
@@mikeclarke3005 I disagree. I've said numerous times that GM's products run like crap for a lot longer than most other things run - period. This applies to the stuff they design and build in-house and not the stuff they partner with other manufacturers for the "global" market where they don't actually build it outright.
The '99-'06 GM trucks were actually one of my favorite generations because most everything is super-simple to maintain. All the major components are easily accessible and parts are both plentiful and (relatively) inexpensive.
I ran an '04 Yukon for 11 years with over 120k miles since I got it new. The only semi-major thing I had to do was replace some cracked exhaust manifold bolts. Took me and a buddy about 3/4 of a day to complete the job without having to remove the heads. I did all the regular maintenance myself including a big service at 100k miles that included the water pump, alternator, brakes (calipers, pads, and rotors), and transmission fluid change. Other than that, all it ever needed was a regular oil change, chassis lube, and tire rotation. Most everything was able to be completed with hand tools, a floor jack, and some jack stands.
There's a reason I skipped the '07-'13 generation - the build choices sacrificed the ability for an owner to do maintenance as easily. I tried out the '14-'18 generation and they're better than the '07-'13 trucks but nowhere as easy as the '99-'06. I'm in a '20 now and am generally happy. There's room to get to everything major for maintenance purposes.
All mechanical things need regular maintenance. If you don't keep up on the maintenance schedule and fix the broken things as they go bad, things will cascade and get a lot worse. Stay on top of it, and you'll generally have no major issues.
And before GM bashers get on my case, I feel the same way about Ford, in particular. Ram trucks had some inherent issues with transmissions for a while but, for the most part, aren't any better or worse than the others. It boils down to which platform you want to "invest" your time, effort, and tools in as well as being aware of what's needed to get basic maintenance done. Some parts are built like crap, yes. But they get the job done to meet the warranty. Past that, the aftermarket is there to supply better-built parts. OR, if you're so inclined and have the equipment, you can make your own parts via 3d printing.
@@toddlynch7282 Not built like crap, built OF crap!
@@toddlynch7282 that little piece x 10,000,000 trucks, = mucho dinero
@@toddlynch7282 GM has the least amount of American made parts than any pickup
I removed that crap part and installed a Timken sealed bearing with an outer race retainer clip on it...a transmission bearing. I tapped the collum and installed a set screw to hold the race from rotating, even though it was a snug fit.
How about a part #. Mine needs to be replaced and it would be good to have a bearing ready to put in place before I take it apart. Thanks.
You must be an American like i used to be when younger. The constant 40 years Beatdown took quite a toll on me.
Hey would you care to share some part numbers or how you did it?
More info would be great. I truly despise doing something over and over just because parts are crap
@@tomdillard9558 measure the inner diameter of the outer shaft and the outer diameter of the inner shaft. Remember, all new bearings are metric and you’re looking for a bearing with a retaining clip on the outer race.
You've got a real talent for making watchable videos. Great commentary, excellent lighting, and humble discussion.
Maaaan, I wish I would've known it was this easy years ago so I could've fixed my grandfather's number 1 gripe about his truck before he passed away... I could only imagine his response if he would've been around to see how cheaply these bearings are made.
Just finished the job this afternoon and got back from test driving my 05 silverado 2 minutes ago. Bingo, that was the problem, fixed the clunking problem completely. Thank you so much :)
Thats what you get for Buying Dorman. When I replaced my intermediate steering shaft I use the Updated GM one which is the right one to use not the cheap Chinese Dorman one. I don’t trust Dorman to have my life in their hands.
Dorman is junk...
@@OOOOOO12345 your local dealer does
Well if it was GM from the factory and was so good, why do you have to replace it, and why would you use the companies part that failed?
@@safffff1000 after a few hundred thousand miles, mechanical things wear.
It's all Chinese, dont kid yourself
I don’t have one of these vehicles but I’ll tell you this you did one hell of a job videotaping.It’s clear the instructions are crystal clear and I found it very entertaining thank you for the video
I have had this noise for several years. Finally figured out what it is without taking it apart. Thanks for the great video.
I drove a 1986 Ford Taurus for 25 years. 350,000 miles, same engine, 3 trannies. That steering wheel U-joint under the dash went bad in about a year. Ford wanted hundreds to fix it. I just wrapped duct tape about it, and it worked fine forever, never had to change the tape.
Bin driving my 2004 daily driver Silverado for almost 17 years like that. Thanks for the information, if I knew it was that easy! I'm going to order the part from rock auto this weekend. Thanks a million, great video! G.C. Del city, Oklahoma. USA.
This is one of the best "fix-it" videos I've ever seen. Great Job. Wondering if your a science teacher. Thats what it reminded me of: the science teacher giving great explanations!!
When my 2001 GMC Sierra 2500HD was new it had this problem. The dealer did a test drive and told me there was a problem with the steering spline and that they would repair it under warranty. Skip forward almost 20 years later I am hearing that sound again. My truck has relatively low mileage but I am guessing the hits from pot holes have finally taken their toll. The bearings may be part of the problem but the plastic spacer between the steering wheel shaft is definitely the biggest problem. I am not an engineer but it seems they went with a plastic spacer to help absorb and reduce road vibration through the steering wheel column but there is a problem with plastic. As it ages it elongates and creates a gap between the spacer and the steering shaft. Thanks for making this video. Now I know exactly how to repair this problem.
I had an 04 Silverado that drove me crazy with this problem. Dealership fixed it at least three times. When it ran out of warranty I traded it off. Never knew what the problem was until now. Thank you for posting this video.
We keep driving these trucks because they are still good trucks, not like their current contemporaries. Anything that keeps us updated as to watch for always helps.
I had an issue with my 99 Silverado 4X4 over the past week. I went out to drive it one morning this past week, and the automatic 4X4 controls went dark and the truck was stuck in second gear in low transfer case. Basically limp home mode. I did a considerable amount of searching online as to what could have been the issue...even pulled out the 4X4 fuse in the panel beside the drivers door...it was fine. After a few more days, I discovered there is a second fuse in the fuse box under the hood, called ATC (Automatic Transfer Case). If you didn't know that was what that was, you wouldn't know, and evidently when this kind of thing happens, this is the fuse that blows. It was blown, and replacing it restored the truck to working order. I don't know what the 4X4 fuse is for, probably the electric motor on the transfer case itself. Who knows.
Anyway, Glad to know what to look for if this happens to my truck and it doesn't seem too hard to correct it.
5:44 It is clear to see that the bearings are wide open to the air. Grease has no ability to stay in place due to the effects of gravity and heat. One has to speculate how much better any effort to seal this part would make it. Nice video thanks.
Jimmy the fact that you are not a professional makes it that much fun to watch. Very entertaining . ❤️ it
You are really good at describing exactly how to do this job. I don't even have to do this, but watched anyway.
My dealer replaced the shaft and a few other parts. That's been over 12 years ago and I haven't had a problem since. I remember the tech telling me there were upgraded parts and that's what they put in. This was for a 06 Silverado. Still driving it noise free. I wish I had more information to share.
Thank you for this video. My daily driver is a 2003 Silverado 5.3 with 175K miles. During the warranty period, it went to the dealer with this same knocking complaint from the steering, while driving at low speeds on uneven surfaces. The RO stated the intermediate steering shaft was replaced. Years later, the noise has returned, especially on hot days. I plan to replace the bearing assembly that you did before Summer arrives. Maybe the tech shot some grease into this bearing assembly at the same time he replaced the intermediate shaft.
Hey Jimmy! Thanks for posting this, just fixed this bearing and the int. shaft on my 06 burb. I had one HELL of a time getting the bearing out. I ended up removing the boot for the int. shaft at the firewall, lassoing a rope around the plastic and pulling through that hole in the firewall. Finally popped free haha. Anyway, thanks again for the help!
Thee lighting, audio, and clarity of this video was immaculate. Bravo. 🏆🏆🐔 🍽
I'm kind of surprised that no one has made a metal replacement like doorman!
I replaced this bearing on my '03 Silverado, plus I did the intermediate steering shaft as well. Clunk all gone. I really love my '03. It still runs like new, with a great ride. Chevy should have simply continued making this model, but instead the new trucks all are cheapified with crappy leather, horrible Chinese-looking plastics, and that God-awful AFM. GM has lost their freakin' minds.
Result of bean counters, lawyers, and girls running things.
Well done video! Had to watch as a refresher as I'm about to replace my bearing for the 2nd time. Thanks for a job well done.
My daily is a 2000 Dakota, Same strategy as you. Change anything that looks questionable and fix every thing that breaks. Keep up the good work!
Jimmy, you gotta recruit, Mrs. Jimmy to hold the phone. Great informative videos. 👍🏾
I'm a tech and the first time I had to diagnose that noise it took me an entire day to realize the only thing wrong was that stupid piece. You're right, it does sound like the whole suspension is falling apart, and or the column. Took me a while to realize the noise was inside the truck. It makes an impressive noise when that thing wears out.
Are you a Chevy dealership tech?
I’m a tech at Lexus, just curious.
Thanks, see my 2007 GMC CANYON steering RACK/ “”knock, “”(*!!!) possible power Steering Pump leak? … just used NAPA PS lube/ stop leak , FOUR YEARS AGO…… ETC.. ALSO, Anyways, my **MOPAR DEALER ( for example) doubled WORK CHARGES: e.g. my Order :””FOUR SPARKPKUG REPLACE JOB(only), “,is $470.00 now , (2022, Dec).,,,,. Interestingly, TECH SUGGESTED niw 100,000 Mike plugs niw, Scope *& Bay time ! ((* my Manuel has 30,000 milebREPLAC3MENTS) .. sorry, for 2015;Journey LE/ 4 CYL…..
@@sasquatchlives4261 No just an auto shop not a dealer
I’m a good mechanic fixing my bulldozers, cars and trucks! This bearing made me think the suspension was falling apart as you said. I chased down so many issues before someone said something about the bearing. It feels like further down. I had no idea.
Thanks great video. You made it look easy. I did this for my 2005 Chevy 2500 dmax and it literally kicked my arss!! LoL! Lieing on your back reaching up there is not fun! LoL! Mine fought me every step. Start to finish was over 2 hours. Everything took muscling and persuasion, but had to be careful not to break anything…. I had to take breaks and go in the pool with my kids. They were like are you ok? I’m like no. I was making the same noises you did but x10. They said wanna go in the pool with us? I’m like ya sounds good to me. LoL! The wife was at work and it was Fathers Day. I said perfect time to tackle this job. Rattle is gone now and truck is all quiet. Thanks again for the video!
Been looking for what’s been driving me nuts for the last two years. Your right seems like the front end coming apart when you drive down a bumpy road. Can’t wait to change out the old bearing. Thanks so much!!
A metal bearing with a plastic race? Seems like there should be a mod in the aftermarket?
Yeah exactly! How stupid is this?!
@@adriantomlin2902 -- Well, the shaft coming from the steering wheel isn't particularly well made: it looks like just rough bar stock. That's all that's needed: maybe cut some threads (or whatever) at one end and drill/punch a hole at the other end. But a bit of "conformity" is needed. That's why everything that touches metal is made of plastic. The outer tube, for example, is just cold rolled steel that's formed into a tube. If one part is a bit "out of round" the plastic helps things continue to function.
On the lubrication issue: that's a toss up. More grease (and the use of grease that might harden) can cause it's own problems. At the minimum, it will attract some dust. I think the host did the right thing, however, when he added some high quality grease.
You never seen 2WD Ford front wheel bearings.
It seems like someone could just make a piece of delrin with two bearings in it that fits this, some good sealed bearings would probably outlast the vehicle.
The aftermarket fix is dont buy a chevy.
There are likely two reasons why it is made of plastic. 1) they want the steering column to compress axially so it won't poke a hole in your chest in a crash. 2) the plastic race cushions some shocks and it tends to not rattle, but I think the compelling reason is (1)
Jimmy thank you for posting this video. I've got to take that intermediate shaft out in the near future and I'm definitely going to replace this part because I have the same problem. Did not know this was the issue but it makes sense. Thank you for doing what you do!!!!
Hey Jimmy! We love watching your Channel, your video's are always very educational & informative. Great job at filming in such a tight space. Keep up the great work... You're The BEST!
Your seats are in great condition! Mine have cracks and splits.
Good video. All of us driving these trucks have this issue.
Not me
@@51-FS not yet
Over 300k and still no problem
And one running light or headlight out on almost every GM truck you see on the road.
329k still no problem
Thank you for the video I have a 2004 Xl and I always through it needed front end work. But I had all that fix but the that noise was still there. Now I know where to look......I also have a 1999 GMC Suburban and thank you for your video they have help me keep my truck on the road 300000 + miles and still going and running great
Thanks so much for making this video. My 2006 Sierra had the clunking in the steering wheel for a couple of years, so I decided to take it to a reputable auto repair shop. They told me I needed a new steering rack, pitman arm, and upper and lower control arms. Can you say $$$$? I ended up doing this procedure and BINGO. No more clunking. It's like a new truck now.
These Dorman replacements are junk; mine was squeaking when I installed it! Unfortunately GM/Delco don't offer a factory replacement. The GMT900's use a similar style lower bearing (15775851) and it doesn't have this issue at all.
I’m surprised that they don’t use a brass bushing but what do I know . Great video Jimmy thanks
You know how to build things so they last. That whole design is garbage.
I had the same “clunk” with my 2006 Silverado when it was under warranty. They fixed the problem for about four years, then it came back. Thanks for posting this, I’ll check and see if it’s the problem.
That 15/16 wrench trick saved me. Thanks!!
Fixing to go look at my 98 now. Thanks!
It is obvious why it was made out of plastic. Unlike you and a few other people, most people would have to go to the dealer to have this problem fixed.
Obviously generating more money for these dealerships!
Good to know brother I just bought a 2002 Z71 Suburban for very cheap needs a little bit of work but now I'm really going to pay attention to the steering when I hit bumps thank you
Changed out the intermediate shaft every 15000 kms under warranty on my 2000 GMC 1500 and also my 2003 GMC 1500 HD Quadrasteer. That was the main reason I switched to the Tundra in 2010, my second one in 2015 and my current 2020. Still waiting to make my first warranty claim.
All I did to fix mine was get a hose clamp and put it around the plastic housing and the metal steering part and tightened it down and all is fixed, took me 10 minutes and since I had the hose clamp it didn't cost me a thing!
That amount of grease on a slow moving bearing with an open plastic or nylon race is perfectly fine. Where you don't want to over pack with grease is on a fast moving sealed bearing. Your first thought is, it will help lubricate, yes it will, but it won't allow for cooling therefore cause overheating and bearing failure. I have a similar noise with my wife's 09 Pontiac Vibe "vibrator". Wonder if it's a similar issue.
Great insight, thanks!
This video was awesome. When I went to replace mine, the bearing assembly was not even inserted. I tried push it back in first, and there was still a lot of play, so I lubed up the new bearing and popped it in.
Watched a hand full of these videos and it’s so awesome.. Mine is so tight that the shoulder is now broken off from me pulling on it and I guess it’s Gianna stay in and I gotta deal with a clunk.. yay!
I've replaced about a 100 plus steering shafts takes about ten minutes
When this was first a problem gm made a lube kit with a long needle we used that lubed everything up under warranty.
GM still has lube kits, but they are used prior to giving you your final bill on out of warranty service.
The interior of that Surburban looks fantastic! GREAT video by the way, I've had to do this fix along with the steering shaft in my '06 GMC The last Dorman bearing I used only lasted 2k miles before it started rattling again.😐
Thank you Jimmy for this valuable information. I have an 02 GMC Sierra which is doing the exact same thing. Now I know what to do to fix it. Thank you brother.
I got a sealed roller bearing from a steering column co in Utah. Fit perfect. I have this column in my diesel rear engine motor home. Who knew :}
Great GM engineering on a part that could last forever if it was made of metal I hope the engineers were properly compensated for their stupidity
Great video man - I cannot believe how you were able to do this AND film so well. Its tight as hell down there and you did a killer job - good work!
Dude! I remember filming this and yes it is very VERY tight in there. Thanks for the encouragement!!
Very helpful. Thanks. I have been wanting to do the intermediate shaft with the updated design and the bearing for a while.
This is the kind of GM quality that has made Toyota famous.
Yes they made this on millions of vehicles and never fix it. Unbeliveable so I bought a Toyota. No shaft knocking.
Had you used a little of that super lube on the outside of the new bearing at the end where the tabs are, you just may have found it a bit easier to slide and snap into position.
Good thing you took it apart to see how little grease was in there. Hopefully the new one will last as long as the original!
You saved me a lot of money! Thanks keep up the good work!
In my opinion I believe that you should have used some silicone grease on the exterior of the green plastic going into the shaft.
I agree. Silicone grease is specifically made for applications like this, with plastics, rubber and low friction and low temperatures
Best video I have seen on this. I have the part but havent installed it because I heard/ready its a pain. You made it look easy. thx
I have an 01 GMC 2WD, owned it for about 6mos. I’ve noticed that when I go over a slight bump such as coming in my driveway, i can feel and hear it. This seems like a dead ringer for what I’m hearing. And like you, I’m thinking Tie Rod ends and so on. Thank you for the education! I don’t think I caught the actual name of that bearing. I’ll be getting one for sure! Thank You!
I added grease to mine when I changed it a year ago. So far so good.
Depending the grease that manufactures use. It was probably cost affective for them to be cheap and use lack of grease because its a moving part that does not move fast enough to retain or create heat. However,
there can be some safety issues behind this situation if too much grease was on the bearings and the truck is sitting on a hot sunny day.
Grease will begin to sweat and leak which could get on electronics and wires under the dash.
"... a bunch of springs in there."
The clock spring isn't actually a spring; it's a spiral-wound flat cable that connects all the electrical stuff on your steering wheel - horn switch, air bag, audio controls, etc. - to the steering column.
FWIW, pulling the upper column assembly isn't very hard in these trucks. Worth the extra little bit of work to avoid the yoga moves, sharp corners and tight confines to do this job.
Very informative and thank you sir my clunky 02 was supposed to be fixed at the dealership it’s noisy again thanks for the update
Thank you for your time appreciate it very much ,mechanic for a long time but any shortcuts that help in troubleshooting we really appreciate it again thank you.!
Great comment! Thanks!!
All due respect for you ,
BUT , just because it is "NEW AND DORMAN " DOESN'T mean it is good.
DORMAN = MADE IN CHINA SLAVE LABOR GARBAGE
Everything is Chinese
Some Dorman parts are ok, but a lot of the reman is junk. Mostly due to rebuilders not giving a crap
Alternators back in the early 90s were so bad, id get a set of bearings, regulator and brushes, diode trio and rebuild it myself. Those were the parts that failed anyway, and they were cheap. Now, they cost a fortune if you can even find them
Tie the steering wheel keeps from damaging the SIR airbag coil. From getting wound too tight . Causing it to break making a hard turn.
I do get a front end shake sometimes and never thought about that part. I will have to check this out.
Good video. I have a Mercury Grand maquis. Same noise,front end is good. Noise comes from the steering column! Thanks, I'm going to check this out!
Oh man I just sold my Silverado yesterday and I've had this problem since I bought it 3 years ago! Wish I'd known sooner
Oof🤦🏽♂️
Two years ago, I bought an 07 Silverado (Classic body). The guy sold it to me fairly cheap because he couldn't get rid of the noise. His mechanic said it needed a complete front end rebuild. This truck is clean and has very low miles. Once I got it in the air at work I couldn't find anything wrong with the front end but it sure sounded like there was. I removed the intermediate shaft and applied a lot of high temp grease and the noise went away until recently it's starting to get loud again. Do I fix it or just turn up the radio louder? LOL
Did this give you that genuine GM feeling? There's a reason this lifelong GM owner left them 4 years ago and didn't look back.
So what vehicle do you drive now does it ever break down i been in alot of shops full of all kinds of vehicles id like to find one that never breaks down
Used to be a gm car guy... No anymore
Who cares
Same here LOL I went w a Subaru crosstrek. Drove genuine GM junk my entire life.
@@RollerCoasterLineProductions happy for you my truck 16 years old stop going strong if it ever stops be glad to get another long lasting piece of GM junk
The very best engineering from General Motors. Only one company making a sub par replacement....
Great Video & Commentary 👍🏻
Major design flaw.. I’ve been through it.
Wow, "Scotty Kilmer grunts" didn't work at the first attempt 😉👍
Isn’t that the part GM sells ford to use as wheel bearings?
🤣
yes they r junk as well i am on #7 wheel hub on same car
Thank you Jimmy!!!! Another great video!
Excellent video. Haven’t had that problem... yet... lol. Did recently replace steering gear, pitman arm, and idler arm/bracket, with some help from your vids, thanks.
I think with these parts you should use the GM ones and not Doorman. I like that you packed that bearing with extra lube. I bet if you did that to the GM one you'd be fine as I don't trust many doorman products.
You cannot buy a GM one. They are discontinued.
@@cup_and_cone well that sucks! I bought one like 8 years ago for my old sierra that I sold. My Yukon has stability control so it has the bearing built into the sensor.
I see that you found a use for a SAE sized wrench...
Got the same clunking in my 01 chevy suburban, going to look at this part next. Replaced the idler arm assembly and both tie rods already since those had play in them.
My 02, sub, brought new has 180m miles and this has not been a problem but this is good info. Thanks
That literally looks like a piece from a children's toy. Seriously, GM? Could you be any more cheap with your parts?
Have you looked at their newer trucks? Pure junk! My '04 Z-71 has gone thru three of these-in only 120,000 miles! I finally just gave up and learned to live with it but then, I rarely drive it these days...
@@snuffysmiff omg that's awful!
They come from china !
Lol!??
now you know why ford truck take No 1 sell in us......
1:20. They made parts from plastic to meet federal fuel efficiency requirements.
Your vids are so useful and educational to me....thx much!
Thank you, Sir. 2007 classic 15k miles. Like new again. I removed the gas peddle and peddle mount it was the only way for me. I'll be reaching under the break peddle and shaking that every oil change.
Nothing like doing the same job over and over.....
Main thing is some pennies were saved......somewhere.
You isolate the steering wheel to avoid damage to the "Clock Spring", a major component of the safety restraint system (air bags).
Always disconnect battery power before any repair.
You wouldn't want to accidentally deploy the bags.
Holy. Got a 05 Tahoe. That sounds like crud when turn sometimes. Gonna look at that soon ! Thanks for the video!
Had the same issue with my 04 Silverado. My second time replacing the coupler bearing the noise faded and came back a month later. At work I lifted the trunk on the 4 post lift and had a coworker turn the steering wheel. I found that the steering gear pitman arm shaft was shifting side to side with a half inch of play. I replaced the steering gear and haven't had a problem since. I didn't think to put extra grease on the coupler bearing. Wish I had seen your video before.