Modding my Evolution Rage 5s (part 1)
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- čas přidán 28. 08. 2024
- ( 3rd attempt at uploading) .... not typing this essay out in full....again.
1) Does what it says on the tin....
2) needs some work to be made "Grumpa proof" ie "idiot proof"!
3) nevertheless a "qualified success"
take care as always
Loz
It was solid until you wacked it with a hammer `thats the difference between do it yourself and trade.
🤣👍... yup.....but then the guy who makes 'em saw the vid and put a comment up that he was thickening the walls ( it was honeycombed inside) to take into account DIY idiots like us! .."jobs a good 'un" !
I am a critical thinker, and I own a rage 5. I found those slots annoying; they are just too shallow, and so I came up with an idea. I purchased a sheet of Perspex 3mm thick x *64cm x 54cm (the *dimensions of the main aluminium able. Note: the black outside extensions can be height adjusted. I then cut the Perspex to fit the table: cutting pieces to fit either side of the existing slots - this raised the main table by 2mm and made the existing slots deeper. I then cut and fitted a piece of Perspex to cover the zero-clearance plate and cut through it.
I too discovered after purchase that Evolution Rage 5 has non-standard slots and soon realised after purchasing a nice mitre gauge and then got annoyed that it does not fit. Evolution slots are approximately 7.8mm deep and the fancy all singing and dancing mitre gauge is 9.5mm. Cutting the Perspex, which is 2mm thick, enables you to use those nice standard sized mitre gauges in the evolution rage 5.
It works like a dream, and I have wiped coconut oil over the Perspex to help the mitre gauge run smoothly.
wow that's a very creative solution! many thanks for your contribution! you should do a CZcams short demonstrating this for everyone who still has the evolution saw!
😀👍
@@GrumpaLoz ❤️
I've had the Rage 5s for about a year now myself. For the mitre gauge I just stuck those little self adhesive felt furniture pads underneath each side, sorted the wobble out straight away. Although to be honest I rarely use the mitre guide anyway, a decent sled that can do angles is probably the better solution.
"now he tells us!" 😀👍- good advice for the codgers watching!
Theres 2 washers you can remove if you take the mitre gauge apart, this lets the fence sit down snug against the table surface and reoves any slop or wobble. The great feature of the moving carriage means you can fix the mitre down then slide the carriage upo and down for cross-cutting.
Like you I have been looking longingly at a new table saw but today whilst thinking things through I realised I haven’t really tried to clear up the little annoyances that the the rage saw has. Although I do have the funds for a new saw after looking at reviews I realised that I’d probably be swapping one set of annoyances for another. Thanks for the video
Good to see you so 'lively'. Useful content.
Hey Loz, You put a concise and cogent set of points there . Keep up the good work. Bob (Weston super mare)
Thanks, will do Bob! 😀👍
The problem with 3D printed parts isn’t normally the model. It’s the lack of understanding of making a prototype and then going to production. An fdm printer is constrained by the diameter of the nozzle and the layer height it is set to print in. If the dimensions of a cad model are not exactly matching to the dimensions of the overall stacked layer height or overall line widths then it will not print to the exact models dimensions. So if something is modelled to a set dimension that allows it to print in let’s say a .4 line width and a .2 layer height. Then the over all dimensions need to be a an exact multiple of .4 wide and .2 high (this may not be exact to start with with the item being made). If you then decide this prints too slowly and you want to print it faster by going to a larger nozzle with .6 line width and .4 line height then the width could end up being .2mm or .4mm too wide or .2mm too tall which makes a tight fit. The problem with altering the model to the faster printing of a larger nozzle means it could then be undersized and sloppy as your constrained by what the printer can do with that nozzle rather than the actual precise measurements of the part making it a waste of time in buying. Hence the need to fettle it! Hole size on the other hand, there is little excuse in getting this wrong. Especially if it is indexed by the head as a little slip in the hole wouldn’t matter if the head is a snug fit. But personally. If I was going to upgrade to a better fitting part and didn’t want to have something bespoke machined. I think I’d just go with an sls printed part and not bother with an fdm printed part. Something like that from an online printing firm would likely cost the same in sls as it does from some guy in a shed with an fdm printer but would be a lot stronger and dimensionally accurate. The only issue with this is sending them the file of what you want to have printed. Unfortunately in this case you would be reliant on the generosity of the fdm manufacturer to supply you the cad model which isn’t likely. However, a free for home cad use package and some online lessons, a good vernier caliper and some time. You are then not restrained by someone else. Draw your own model and have it made in sls!
Thanks Oli!. That was the longest, most detailed comment I have had ( or seen elsewhere) and displays an in depth knowledge of 3d modelling/design/production that had me gobsmacked
..had to read it 3 times..and I'm not known for my patience! 😀👍
Boss video man, I've subscribed dude
Welcome aboard Gary! moved on a bit ( tho some would say I'm STILL a wood noob) The rage 5 has gone to its 2nd home next-door-but-one - check out my other back catalog uploads... I'm now on to small boxes- so much to do so little talent! 🤣
I’m buying a Rage 5s with my Crimbo money!
It’s a great first table saw bud. You won’t regret it! 😃👍 don’t let yourself get frustrated with the non-standard mitre slots bud. Just screw a wider (ply) fence to the mitre gauge fixed in place to the sliding table and make use of that: that should satisfy your hankering for a cross-cut sled. Pop in fine cross cut blade with more teeth and a 3d printed zero clearance plate and you’re done for a few years ( at least!) happy crimbo !
That's a lot better way of using the mitre fence Loz taking advantage of the machines sliding table. Tony
Another Northerner! Great!
Thanks Joe (I'm catching up on my responses) happy new year! 👍
Nice one Loz 🛠️👍😊
How about *for the enthusiast market* Evolution sell after-market blank inserts which you could cut to your preferred angle? Would that work?
Thank you for making the video. I’m glad of any feedback. Loz if you can contact me through eBay I will send you another revised one. I can open the hole slightly and make thicker 👍
@@GrumpaLoz I have also ordered one off the back of this video.
Keep your CA glue in the freezer...it won' freeze and the low humidity will stop it from drying out.
Hi Loz...I have this saw too....I wonder if there's a better fence you can get?
Hi Bud, no idea why this comment has only popped up in my dashboard a month later!?... you, there are all sorts of fence upgrades you can do on this, sadly none off the shelf :-( its on my "list" to do a torch ply upgrade! watch this space.....
@@GrumpaLoz Keep me updated!
where did you get the part from?? link or contact please
Hi I got them from "Stuparkercreations" he used to be on eBay but is now easily available on Etsy- the link is here: www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1040934475/evolution-rage-5s-table-saw-mitre-bars?gpla=1&gao=1&&CjwKCAjw7vuUBhBUEiwAEdu2pCbodEdlBxtw6wSvhkkkMnpH_XWvb3F8BEKSgf62Lp9oQJ-y9UDHfBoCbeIQAvD_BwE_k_&:pla-319690784399_c__1040934475engb_480702319&gclid=CjwKCAjw7vuUBhBUEiwAEdu2pCbodEdlBxtw6wSvhkkkMnpH_XWvb3F8BEKSgf62Lp9oQJ-y9UDHfBoCbeIQAvD_BwE
It's a shame nothing comes with correct tolerance nowdays , Id use wet toilet roll in the channel , refit , let dry sorted ..... But then I'm a bodger supreme . ... On my handy dad channel , I have a workshop lighting upgrade video that may assist , may .... And is there a thing as too much swearing ?
There isn't such a thing, no.
A good idea - where is the link for the 3D printed bar?
@@GrumpaLoz Thanks very much
Hi Loz just so you know I’ve made the hole bigger and doubled the infill of the part. So they will be much stronger from now on. If you can send me your address through eBay or Etsy I will get one to you asap. Spwoodcreations
I used a round file and rubbed out a few burrs and sanded down the head of the bolt it fits flush and snug a bit of infill and it will be perfect
Thanks Grumpa for your video this was of help watching you I would have probably would have made the same mistake and tried to hammer it through.
Also rather than sanding the track I put it in the rail marked where it was a bit tight gave a light sand at these places and it is sliding great without any slop and repeated this on the opposite track as well perfect
Hi, how do I get one of these please?
@@GrumpaLoz Thank's Loz, I will have a look, cheers.
Loz this channel . Jim
There is a flat bar ally from Wicks size 19.5mm have a look at that Lawrence I am
@@GrumpaLoz The Wickes flat bar is only 2mm thick so would probably need 2 or 3 lengths to bond together to use in a mitre slot.
@@GrumpaLoz Lawrence let us know how you’ve got on thanks
@@GrumpaLoz not got round to it yet my self Lawrence