is Rick Owens somehow getting better?
Vložit
- čas přidán 27. 06. 2024
- The complete guide to Rick Owens Spring Summer 2021 runway show as part of Paris Fashion Week.
If you love the channel, support on Patreon: / blissfoster
Follow me on IG: / blissfoster
Follow me on Twitter: / blissfoster
Complete Shownotes via Rick Owens:
I SPEND MY SUMMERS ON VENICE’S LIDO, THE SITE OF THOMAS MANN’S NOVELLA DEATH IN VENICE. THE MAIN CHARACTER, A WRITER ASCETICALLY DEVOTED TO HIS CRAFT, DEVELOPS AN OBSESSION WITH A YOUTH AND ENDS UP DYING ON THE BEACH FROM CHOLERA DURING AN EPIDEMIC WITH DESPERATELY AGE-DEFYING HAIR DYE RUNNING DOWN HIS FACE IN THE HOT SUN.
THE WORD ‘QUARANTINE’ ORIGINATED FROM THIS AREA’S MEDIEVAL RESPONSE TO THE BUBONIC PLAGUE.
THIS WOMEN’S RUNWAY SHOW IS PRESENTED IN THE PIAZZA IN FRONT OF THE LIDO CASINO - A MONUMENTAL 1930S RATIONALIST PALAZZO THAT I WALK BY AND WORSHIP EVERY DAY ON MY WAY TO THE BEACH. DOING A DIGITAL SHOW WITHOUT AN AUDIENCE HERE, WITH MY INTIMATE ITALIAN DESIGN ROOM CREW FROM OUR FACTORY 2 HOURS AWAY, FEELS COZY AND TRUTHFUL AND SPECTACULAR ALL AT ONCE
MY LAST FALL RUNWAY SHOULDER-FREAK-OUT WASN’T ABOUT POWER, IT WAS ABOUT DEFIANCE - DEFIANCE IN THE FACE OF THREAT. BLACK GRAIN DE POUDRE TAILORING IS OVERSIZED WITH SLEEVES RIPPED OFF OF HULKING SHOULDERS... STRAPS ALLOW THE WEARER TO STRIP JKTS OFF AND CINCH AROUND WAISTS AS A BEACH BUSTLE... AND SATIN RIB WAISTED BOMBERS HAVE SHOULDERS THAT ARE AN EXAGGERATED MIDDLE FINGER TO DOOM.
I JUST MIGHT BE LEANING INTO A TASTE FOR THE LURID THAT AN UNDERCURRENT OF THREAT AND DREAD CAN INSPIRE. BUBBLEGUM PINK AND ALARM RED THIGH HIGH BOOTS AND LEATHER MICRO- SHORT CUTOFFS ADD A GARISH NOTE, BUT THESE MICRO-SHORTS CAN BE TRANSFORMED INTO WAIST DEFINING BELTS WITH HANDY POCKETS THAT CAN BE WORN OVER SIMPLE JERSEY SHIFTS.
ALSO MORE CIVILIZED ARE ARCHITECTURAL COTTON POPLIN TUNICS AND ROBES WITH SCULPTED CAPES AND MANTLES IN BONDED WOOLS AND COTTON POPLIN. CONFECTIONS IN SILK CHIFFON WITH STRICT LINES OF TULLE GEO-RUFFLES SPRINKLED WITH TRAILING GAZAR RIBBONS ADD A GRIM GAIETY.
MOST OF THE LEATHERS USED IN THIS COLLECTION ARE DOUBLE-FACED WITH MINIMAL, UNLINED CONSTRUCTION, INCLUDING A 0.8MM THICK NEAPOLITAN-PRODUCED JUICY DOUBLE-FACED LEATHER WE CALL DOUBLE BUTTER.
WE DID A NEAPOLITAN GELATO DÉGRADÉ STRIPE PRINT ON CHIFFON AND CRÊPE, EXTENDING IT TO KNITS. THESE KNITS DOUBLE UP, PEEL UP AND DOWN LIKE A BANANA, COVERING OR EXPOSING AT WILL.
A GROUP OF FISHNET TANK DRESSES AND HOODIES HAVE BEEN DEVELOPED FROM THE MASKS USED IN FW12 ‘MOUNTAIN’.
JKTS AND SHORTS ARE PRESENTED IN STRETCH DENIM SURFACED WITH PAILLETTES CUSTOM MADE FOR US FROM RECYCLED PLASTIC.
THIS WOMEN’S SPRING COLLECTION, AS ALWAYS, SHARES THE SAME TITLE AS THE MEN’S - ‘PHLEGETHON’, ONE OF THE RIVERS IN THE INFERNO DESCRIBED IN DANTE’S DIVINE COMEDY, NOT QUITE THE CENTER OF HELL BUT ON THE WAY THERE.
I USED A SOUNDTRACK OF DONNA SUMMER’S ‘I FEEL LOVE’ REMIXED FOR ME 10 YEARS AGO BY JEFF JUDD, MY LONGTIME MUSIC COLLABORATOR. THIS SONG HAS ALWAYS BEEN A REASSURING AND STABILIZING ANTHEM FOR ME BUT HERE IT GETS AS DARK AND DELIRIOUS AS FALLING INTO A K-HOLE, FITTING THIS MOMENT PERFECTLY. COPYRIGHT RESTRICTIONS DID NOT ALLOW ME TO POST IT ON CZcams SO I HAD TO POST A SUBSTITUTE VERSION. BUT DONNA WENT HARD FOR THE LIVE SHOW AT THE LIDO... - Jak na to + styl
Incredible. I finally found a guy on youtube who can really talk about fashion not being pretentious both not being superficial, in a really passionate manner. Thank you, you got my respect and admiration.
Rick Owens is experiencing what few artist cause thats what he is, at this point. He has transcendent all the convention of a Fashion designer. What keeps us from refering to him as bildhauer ( sculptur) ? He is currently maturing something every artist hopes for. This is because for years he spent perfecting his strongest heymakers. There was a time where critics would get bored at him because of the repition. There is something very ancient wisdomish about him and his methodology. Repeat , copy, repeat copy. Immanuel Kant believes once genius is achieved the copy of it, is possible. Rick has his sources he goes back to. In an interview he once said that he has enough material for the next 5 years. This is insane. He is conniseur of the classics grew up on it. This is coming to him naturally. He just knows how to take and give back to the universe. A true master of the craft. As young designer is so refreshing and assuring to have someone like him around for sure.
lol they justgot a new design director..
@@sensunory who? tyrone?? lolllllll
I’m so stoked on Rick these days. I’ve bought 4 SS23 pieces recently, and other than how great looking his stuff is, it’s so comfortable. He’s def a fave.
Your thought process is beautiful to listen to. I feel like I'm in some elevated class and or at a reading of a really well put together paper. idk idk. this is fun.
same art class 101 lol
This show is so amazing... the clothes really speak to me like few do. Rick is such a master
Your analysis of the shoulders seems spot on. I'd like to add that there's an autobiographical no to all of this as well as in interviews around Performa and Phlegethon Rick has been talking speaking to interviewers about the recent death of his father and that he's been asking how we as a species respond elegantly to threats. In that BoF interview he talks about those sculptural shoulders as some personal articulation of that response and asks how we are supposed to defy death, disaster and bigotry. He references half of his implicit response in the men's Phelgethon video, dressing Tyrone and taking outfit photos of him. Rick is responding to disaster by simply continuing to do his work with grace and humility. I think it's quite a beautiful response and nuanced in its quietness. In contrast, this show is so much bolder and more theatrical. It's almost like he's performing his perspective that to face disaster one needs to be quiet and work diligently, and one needs to make a larger statements of rebellion. Each have their moment, and we are each responsible for choosing the right time to employ either tactic.
These boots are certainly a statement piece that embodies a new boldness which we are not used to in Rick, just love them!
“its pronounced lido casino” hahah It's a-me, Mario!
The architecture is almost brutalist, which i see as a symbiosis w Ricks work.
One day Bliss Foster will be where he wants to be and I will applause his success and be glad to see another soul live their life by their own standards. When you are giving a great service -And- your passions shine for all to see, it shows
That means a lot to me, thank you 😊 Good news! I’m living the dream right now. I’m in my lane and I love it 💫💫
this is the best video you’ve ever put out bliss
omg the Bliss Foster x Rick look ...finally! grabbing my popcorn now! ✨✨✨
That vest with the cage shoulder thing is amazing
donna summers and mesh blazers omfg im here for this collection
He's used these colours before in his SS05 collection, but it was great to see him approach them again. He worked them into better garments, shoes and accessories than before perhaps because of the new contexts that he's played with more overtly over the last few years: His Mexican heritage, Greek Mythology etc. influencing him to use the geometric shapes and taste for detailing and materials he's always worked with, but in different ways. Perhaps its indicative of some developments in his personal journey. Respective to what's been going in the world currently and in recent years, he's also used these contexts to fuel his reaction to the changes and turmoil we're seeing, through the classic Rick Owens geometric language, developed styling and again, his use of the same colours but in a fresh way.
I love yr Rick shirt.
Great videos and good way of talking!
Ss22 for Rick will probably be really colorful, a true spring after being in lockdown for almost 2 years and the whole world going to continue their activities normally
I definitely think he benefited from the slowing down of the mayhem the fashion calendar can be. He probably got more time to flesh things out and reflect on decisions before making them, which I"m sure worked wonders on the details for the collection.
The full episodes are only on Patreon. Link in description 💫💫
thank you bliss
Best YT channel rn 🤝💯
That means so much to me, thank you 🙏
I still can't believe this fashion show was held al the Lido, literally on the street, while I was in my apartment in Venice (10 mins away from there) and DIDN'T KNOW THIS WAS HAPPENING ... I'm so mad at myself...
You need to follow rick owens on instagram or twitter. All shows are announced there before they happen
Also, Rick said he is planning to move to Venice permanently. So you will be able to see his future shows for sure.
@@fakhriaslan6479 I really hope so!!
Thank you
palazzo della civiltà italiana! my favourite building
BLISS!!!!! nice video
haven't watched the video, but yes.
On god 😂
God I love your Rick shows analysis:)
Sisyphus is up next 💫💫
To me this show is just as simple as the connection of science and art, with science being the most dominant between these two. Of course this can cause a lot of analyzing as proved in the video
death breathes lightly from both sides.
it's good to face that though.
Me: I’m gonna watch this vid cos I like Rick Owens clothing! Five sec later, I’m only thinking I wanna give bliss a haircut and dress him up in different clothes cos he’s so adorable lol 😂 😹🤣
It's not about "wrong" or "right" teams...it's about balance -
OH HELL YES IT IS.
Rick's womenswear has maintained but I think his menswear took a total nosedive this year. While I like elements from Rick's return to glam (especially those shown in Larry) I feel the designs are catering more to popular culture and have less of that haunting monolithic feeling which made his work seem both ancient and from the future simultaneously.
good video, now do a review of das kapital 😭
Das Capital SS21 vid coming soon 💫💫
Wahoo!
The best rick i know is pre-2016 rick
Tell us why!
@@BlissFoster I feel that in the last years he was somewhat pressed to broaden his cultural references in order to not repeat himself. Which isn’t a bad thing in theory but to me something is being lost aesthetically. Probably I’m just a fan of his earlier architectural style inspired by sculpture and french furniture makers
@@BlissFoster I know I disregard the conceptual level, but I find it hard to appreciate fashion in that way. You are very good at picking these things, that’s why I’m subscribed.
yes, in terms of his menswear we all still want Crust 2009.
2015
maybe yes
maybe no
13:20 I think, yes, it reminds me of a phelon. The phelon is a garment worn by priest that symbolizes the power of God, as Jesus was clothed in something similar before his crucifixion. It is most often worn during the liturgy.
Interesting.
What’s the jacket at 3:58? Really dig it
It’s a Hamcus hoodie with a ooooold Final Home jacket over it 💫💫
HELP PLEASE: Anyone looking for never worn drkshdw abstracts high tops IT42? I ordered the wrong size and need a IT45
since the busines of fashion was estasblihed as it is today ( well, until before the pandemia maybe, we dont know yet) which is the 80s, for me there have been designers who were able to grab the zeitgeist for a decade, before & more successfully than anyone else. armani for the 80s, gaultier for the 90s, rick owens for the 2000s, & gvasalia for the 2010s (which is the post truth era!) that being said, judging from the past, we can assume owens defunct as a fashion designer (oops, sorry!) & a born again artist?
Youre like an English teacher who analyzes everything to death and finds a hidden meaning for everything when it doesn't exist
I’d love for you to elaborate, I’m always looking to improve. What seemed far-fetched? 💫💫
was it intentional that bliss hair looks like a ww2 french resistance hat right now?
8:00 Is Rick on discord?
Who would wear this tho i don't see a market maybe in an art museum but in real life who ?
Whoever it is, it sells incredibly well. Rick heads are so devoted
I was thinking the same thing, I don't mind fashion because I like art and stuff but some of these clothes just seem weird for the sake of weird, and I can't imagine many wearing, similar to musicians like John Cage, I guess you have to know the context behind it rather than looking at it as an independent entity ( like he was talking about French hats in ww2 ) I think I'll stick to shopping in charity shops lol
How do feel about the Rick Owens X Stüssy collab
He’s paying homage to a cultural icon! It’s cool! Nothing to write home about, but I think it’s cool for what it is 💫💫 How do you feel about it?
or am I getting worse
Rick isn't better. He's as good as before just a bit freakier.
is he getting cuter every time!?
94-09 rick >>>
It's tyrone era rick don't share is own aesthetic anymore
it is thanks to playboi carti
I’m not sure how they’re connected 🤔 could you explain?
@@BlissFoster i think yk how
WHAT LOOOOL
I’m so attracted to you what
2:14 looks like she has no legs! Wtf 😳
did you just equate bigotry with conservatism? lol
Rick is expensive for what reason? its soooo plain