Rick Owens FW21 Gethsemane - Group Runway Analysis
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- čas přidán 21. 02. 2021
- Rick Owens Fall Winter 2021 Menswear "Gethsemane". My followers collectively analyzed all the details from the show that we all missed.
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-Full shownotes-
GETHSEMANE WAS THE GARDEN JESUS PRAYED IN THE NIGHT BEFORE THE CRUCIFIXION; A PLACE OF UNEASY REPOSE AND DISQUIET BEFORE A FINAL RECKONING. WE’RE ALL LIVING A TENSE PERIOD IN HISTORY WAITING FOR A RESOLUTION, BE IT CATASTROPHIC OR RATIONAL, IN A SUSPENSE THAT FEELS ALMOST BIBLICAL IN ITS DRAMA - PRIMITIVE AND PROFANE.
JKTS AND COATS IN LEATHER AND SHEARLING THAT SEAL THE BODY WITH INTEGRATED GLOVES AND ZIP UP OVER THE FACE SPEAK OF PROTECTION AND WITHDRAWAL. HORROR.
SKIN TIGHT LEATHER BODYSUITS UNDERPIN MOST LOOKS, SOME WITH THE TOP PULLED DOWN TO HANG OFF THE HIPS. SHARP, EXAGGERATED SHOULDERS ON TAILORED COATS AND CROPPED BOMBERS MOCK MALE CONSERVATISM CAREENING OFF THE RAILS.
HEAVY RECYCLED CASHMERE SWEATERS TWIST AROUND THE BODY - THEY CAN PULL UP TO DOUBLE OR PEEL DOWN TO TRAIL OFF THE BODY. THE SAME YARNS ARE USED TO KNIT ROOMY BLANKET- SIZED HOODED ROBES. BIBLICAL.
THESE HOODED ROBES ARE REPEATED IN DUVET WHICH ALSO COMES IN CROPPED JKTS PEELING OFF THE TORSO.
TIGHTY-WHITIES WITH PENTAGRAM FLYS ADD MORE UNHINGED MALE ENERGY WHEN WORN WITH THIGH HIGH COWHIDE FUR BOOTS - WITH A PLATFORM HEEL OR A BALLAST SOLE - UNDER COATS MADE FROM RECYCLED PLASTIC WASTE WITH THE SLEEVES RIPPED OFF. HAIRY LEGS, ORGANIC PENTAGRAM UNDERWEAR, AND JUMBO RECYCLED COATS WITH PANDEMIC MASKS - A ROUGH SKETCH OF OUR BARBARIC CONTRADICTORY TIMES.
DRAGGING OVERSIZED JEANS ARE IN 16OZ BLACK WARP/BLACK WEFT/BLACK SELVEDGE DENIM CUSTOM WOVEN FOR US BY YAMAASHI ORIMONO (EST. 1945) ON VINTAGE SAKAMOTO SHUTTLE LOOMS. THIS IS FROM AN ONGOING DRKSHDW CAPSULE MADE IN JAPAN.
THE RAMONES WERE ALWAYS ONE OF MY FAVORITE BANDS - LOUD AND DUMB CAN ALSO BE CONCISE AND ELEGANT... THEY HAD THE WHOLE PACKAGE - THE RIGHT ATTITUDE, THE RIGHT CHORDS, THE RIGHT HIP BONES, THE RIGHT GRAPHICS, THE RIGHT HAIR, AND THE RIGHT SHOES - CONVERSE. YEARS AGO, I DID MY OWN DUMBER AND LOUDER VERSION OF THESE SNEAKERS AND THIS SEASON CONVERSE AGREED TO GRAFT MY CRUDE VERSION ONTO THEIR ORIGINAL AND MUTATE THEIR SIGNATURE TOE CAP. THE TONGUE IS EXTENDED AND THE LABEL AND LICENSE PLATES ARE ALTERED TO REFLECT THE DRKSHDW COLLABORATION.
THE SOUNDTRACK IS AN EXCLUSIVE EXTENDED REMIX OF ‘HELLRAP’ BY GHOSTEMANE THAT SPEAKS TO THE MALE SUPPRESSED RAGE ON EVERY SIDE OF THE MORAL DIVIDE...
CASTING: PRODUCTION AM CASTING (CLM)
PRODUCTION: LA MODE EN IMAGES KNOW HOW PRODUCTIONS (VENICE)
MUSIC: EXCLUSIVE EXTENDED MIX OF ‘HELLRAP’ BY GHOSTEMANE
SPECIAL THANKS : PALAZZO EXPERIMENTAL HOTEL
PATRONATO DI SANTA MARIA ELISABETTA
CITTA DI VENEZIA - Jak na to + styl
People forget Rick Owens is a well read individual. His use of symbolism, drama, and themes in his designs and shows is more deliberate than 90% of fashion designers making clothes today.
Strong agree
Loved that "white horse" reference. The shot of the Mustang stood out to me a ton in the show but I never made that connection, gorgeous.
the white horse symbolism Mustang reference gave me chills. didnt realize that! wth!!!
Rick and Tyrone's relationship has perplexed me, I had no idea why Tyrone was always with him or who Tyrone even is, I feel like he just appeared one day and was suddenly the centrepiece to the shows.
tylrone, rick’s main squeeze. 0_
@@rogersantiago1892 I assume he is still with
Michèle though right?
@@jameshelliwell3876 yes he is still with her, been an open relationship for a long time.
@@antoineveilleux273 Ah cool! ty
I LOVE this way of talking about fashion. Not a lot of youtubers do this sadly, big respect
Regarding that criticism towards the end of this video on how Rick relies on his new muse... That is the job of the muse. To inspire. To bring new life. To help one see something differently. To give the artist a boost and renewed energy. How on earth is that a bad thing? I am thankful that Rick is inspired to move forward with the brand's evolution with each show. Can you imagine the stress involved with the need to out-do oneself with each season after X amount of years? As a long-time fan of RO, I am pleased that he has these people in his life. I don't want him to stop making clothes for Michelle, Tyrone, or himself (yes... Himself. He still wears what he makes.) and whomever else he gets his energy from. In the end, it will always be distilled down to that bold RO aesthetic that he commands.
Dehydrated abs got me rolling 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 love this vid!
Im ADDICTED TO Bliss Foster content ! Way to go man , you keep me coming back, and wanting more !
I discovered Rick abt a year ago and still learning abt his aesthetics. Great breakdown
Bliss, you make the best fashion videos on any platform by far. Love your vibe and humor and all the analysis teach me so fukin much it amazes me how can you be so good at making these videos. I promise you that the moment I start working or making any type of money im going to support you with anything I can.
I was waiting for a nicely summarised view on this show 🙌🏽
Fascinating as always! Truly outstanding. Thank you.
Love this format... I found the knitting expert’s comments fascinating... I gained a whole different appreciation
thank you bliss for another great video
Such a great analysis as always
Can't wait for the next one
Bliss, I think you are humbly brilliant. I want to hear from your father and you together as creatives. I love the way he talks about the process. We want to know more about him. Maybe he starts a channel?
I keep telling him to! He’s not big on attention, so I doubt he’ll do it. But yea, I learned a lot about how to think from him.
8:53 I got into fashion over historical dressmaking. In my experience this sleeves were way more popular for men than for women.
Is tyron really Rick’s boyfriend?
I think his recurring use of the pentagram is a reference to or inspired by Fritz Lang’s Metropolis
Ohhhh that’s a great thought 🤯
I’ve seen a story of their studio where a picture of metropolis with the pentagram was visible.
Nothing beats my mom coming in at the exact moment Bliss zooms in on the Pattern on the model's UNDERWEAR!!!!!!
Lmaoooo 🤣
dropping a comment to let you know I really enjoy your content, all the work you put into it obviously but also the way your personality shines through, I would love a Q & A from you, you have a great presence and I can't wait to see what you accomplish in the future!
Great analysis! You should invite your dad more in these analysis videos hahaha. Keep it up!
A review with a bonus home tour? Love to see it
FINALLY! RICK IS A BEAST!
Great vlog
When I get a stabilized income def paying for your patreon 💕
🙏🙏
The moving round was entertaining confusing and odd at the same time lol
Well done, Bliss community, as usual! If I can add a minor footnote: given the charged title that set a Christian tone to the whole analysis, I would say that the parkas with slit open sleeves - from which naked hands jut out - could be said to evoke, with sinister effectiveness, a skin about to be peeled off, like in the flaying of Saint Bartholomew...
i feel like the pose at 9:06 could be a reference to a pose baphomet is commonly seen in, holding one hand up to the sky whilst pointing another to the ground.
As for the 'white horse' car, I thought it resembled the white volvo p1800 that was used in the 'the Saint' series
I would suggest looking at shows from outside of the 3 most important fashion weeks ... I think there are great this out there that are not just relevant but different. I wished there were more analysis outside of the 3 big ones.
also bliss, thats a cool painting
Ur house is so cool btw
Really dug this analysis. I really enjoy fashion, but never catch the references.
bacterial? that thang looked like a walking anatomy of a cell
Ugh I wish I could join the group analysis! It was fun to watch it.
I love when Rick’s aesthetic is not disturbed by people around as usual in the fashion shows. One good thing Covid did to me is being able to see only Rick’s otherworldly universe during the show. His last shows’ shots made me appreciate on the symmetry, architecture, the clothes and all of them combined together. He says he liked his shows without audition, hope he goes for without the audition even that means we lose our chances to see his work with bare eyes lol
By the way, I really want to talk to some smart fashion people but I don’t use discord. Any alternatives for maybe youtube, instagram, reddit?
You should participate in the next group analysis!! I do them every other month now! 😊 And yes, Rick’s vision seems sharper now that the sets are mostly empty.
And if you’re in need of a fashion community, I’d strongly advise you to give discord a shot 😊 the format is perfect, I can’t recommend it enough
I joined Discord! I know I am asking too much but can you send me a link to the community you showed in your video please?
Awesome!! So that community is exclusive for my patrons. If you want to join up, the link is in the description 💫💫
@@BlissFoster I am very dedicated about those chats, so also joined patreon rn hahah. Thanks for the information!
you should make a video about xander zhou
Still drinking my first coffee, nice. The armhole sweaters are rad...Oh! wide sholders, I bet that shirt didn't fit eh???
I buy his clothes, I have many of his leather boots, sneakers, pants and tops, and I do feel that Tyrone’s image is wore out, like I wanna see new faces, maybe new silhouettes and a change, to make me feel like I wanna buy new items.
the constructive criticism+flex combo
Ricks an optimist? Wow I wouldn’t have guessed that
I think since he survived his drug problem it makes a bit more sense
I still love VETEMENTS & BALENCIAGA more. This is interesting stuff...
Great video as usual, thank you.
The more nuanced and cultural analysis is spot on, but there's also a strong hint of early 80s body-horror with the knit - stretched out below the 'joining points' of the body, apertures for erroneous heads and arms - mainly thinking of the DNA glutting of John Carpenter's 'The Thing' where the alien desperately combines bits of dogs and humans. A bit of Brian Yuzna's 'Society' as well.
Great catch!!
The Holes also (To Me) reference his "SPHINX" f/w collection.
First 🖤
Nailed it 🧘
The best is the Star Wars sith look
7:08 he said it. he said the funny
🖤
maybe tyrone represented jesus in a way as he definitely looks similar to depictions of jesus, so they had the mask off for him since jesus would be the focal point?
ID on your hoodie? Its soooo nice
Robert Geller! The info for my outfits is at the beginning of every video 💫💫
@@BlissFoster thanks I’ll check him out, love your content btw
😻😻😻😻👏🏼
every time I watch these I'm humbly reminded how much smarter other people are and how little I noticed lol
Yeah, everyone who submitted to this had some great stuff to say 🤯
I'm so confused on who tyrone dylan is? He's always with rick
He is his muse, boyfriend and assistant-designer
should probably cite all the people who helped out in the description, especially that one guy that you quoted verbatim
7:08 sus...
Don’t have time to watch this rn I’ll be back in 30 mins 😅
I’m back it’s been a hour 😅
i think thats michele lamy behind the mask at 20:10 dont quote me i could be wrong
Alas, that’s not Michele 😕
@@BlissFoster but u can kinda see the resemblance right it sorta looks like her lmaoooo
so who is tyrone exactly? is he a model that is a close to rick? or what...
He’s Rick’s muse, he’s also the main model for the brand and he’s involved in design.
@@BlissFoster thanks for the info!
Less narrator, more visuals.
I really liked the clothes, but the Video of the show was just so bad:/ I couldn´t really see any details of the clothes...
has rick broken up with michele because of tyrone?
nah they been in open relationship for long
Rick once had his hair up a trans persons butt and was peed on, Rick and Michele don't exactly have a traditional marriage to begin with
@@jonnyfendi2003 BUTT MUSCLEEEEEE
If they were doing an collection based on nature and botany and the models were walking the opposite way the car was facing - it would be going against the grain. Or nature vs tech. The models here are riding the same wave as the white horse and bring forth the destruction that follows.
Good call 🦾
second
wait wtf Tyrone is Rick's boyfriend. Really?
niqab
Even if they didn't set the flood up like that because of the Capitol riot, they certainly would have considered changing it and decided not to.
I call BS
no one dressed this poorly is allowed an opinion on rick
Big true
What a freak🤦🏻♂️