Why Martine Rose Is My Favourite Menswear Designer
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- čas přidán 23. 01. 2024
- In today's video we review Martine Rose's Fall Winter 2024 runway show / collection.
Martine Rose convened another of her phenomenally heart-warming, powerfully directional shows in London on January 6. Roses were everywhere-grandparents, parents, sisters, brothers, cousins, and her children. Friends stood, whooped, danced, and cheered while the models-a cast of her favorite local heroes-proceeded to high-style it out. It was part Vogue ball, part riotous community fund-raising event-a night packed with laughter, warmth, and a wow-factor surprise. Because here was Martine Rose serving drop-dead elegant fashion.
Phones were banned, but she’d had the show filmed, and released it at a screening during the Paris menswear. And then-another surprise-she did the show again for the fashion crowd tonight.
“I was sort of just deconstructing what I care about, and what I really think is important,” she’d said on the night of the London show. “Which is how clothes can make you feel transformed. I really think this is a message now: to make something that felt joyful. I always talk about community a lot. I thought well, let’s actually do a community show, let’s do something that feels collective and empowering and fun.”
She asked the audience to put away their phones because, “I didn’t want the focus to be on anything other than that moment of transformation and pleasure. There’s always the problem that phones pull us away, distract us and remove us so much from from the situation we’re in. And I really wanted that everyone should be present, to just be here with us in this room celebrating these amazing people who have been transformed by clothes.”
On came a guy in an electric blue moire suit, with a matching shirt and bolo tie, proudly owning the runway. Out stalked a pair in sharp pointy heels, crombie coats, neon green skinny jeans and shirts, hair piled into towering bouffant curls. This was not the streetwear take you might expect of Martine Rose. Something else was happening: wrapping, draping, and asymmetry. First, it was with men’s technical jackets or shirts recut almost like ponchos. Then the womenswear: a satin-edged blanket was turned into a chic one-sleeved tunic, worn over leather jeans. A body-celebrating black leather dress came sexily draped and knotted about the wearer.
Martine Rose already occupies a highly regarded place as a major influence on men’s fashion. This show demonstrated those powers all over again-who else could’ve come up with that furry brown lurex pinstriped coat-suit? Up to now, the fashion she’s designed for women has been more of a casual cool-girl mirroring of the twists on sport-genre clothing she does for men. But with this collection-with its incredibly cool elegance-she showed that she’s easily as inspirational a leader in women’s fashion.
In difficult, fearful periods such as the one we’re living in, fashion’s instinctive response is to go sober, safe, and stick to tried-and-tested “commerciality.” The trouble with that is that it causes paralysis, dullness, and a downward spiral in desirability. With this collection, Rose went completely in the opposite direction-for the elevation and elation of dressing; for creativity and the high ground.
At the end of her London show, lots of friends, family, and children took their own turns on the catwalk. It finished up with a raffle in aid of St Giles Trust, a UK charity that helps people held back by poverty, homelessness, exploitation, and abuse. On all kinds of levels, she’s a woman who shines. - VIA VOGUE RUNWAY - WRITTEN BY SARAH MOWER
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just as people were realising how stagnant male fashion has been, Martine Rose freshens things up. absolutely love her
The challenge Martine Rose might have in America is that her core audience is likely middle/upper middle class black immigrant population and this population tends to assimilate and wear "cleaner", more structured forms of dressing because they followed all the rules and did what they had to do to be successful. I am that audience and i love her clothes because it fun(ny) and honestly reminds me of my FOB (stylish) uncles and aunts. Her clothes will work with the creative class of that core audience.
watched the show and even the music is very 80s her referencing is on point
In addition to the outstanding dialogue (roadman) I think it would be cool to play soft ambient instrumental music during these discussions.
Contrary to that I always enjoy this level of discussion. Keep it up🎯🧏♂️✨
Although it could distract from the premise maybe 😅
Virgil used to always do it in his mixtapes and podcast 💆🏾♂️
own 3 pieces from Martine, a sweater, jeans, and a belt. Besides my belt sort of faulting on me, i really like her garments
It gives me a lot of Ray Petri’s Buffalo - those boxy shouldered jackets tucked into pleated trousers and the formalwear mixed with sports wear. And of course all the voguing.
Interesting. Checking out their site. I dig some of these designs. Very expensive tho. Will have this on my radar of brands to keep up with. Also in USA definitely don't think I've heard much of them so thanks for putting us yanks on.
great video guys, very insightful
Ironically, I think if LV is gone it's not really going to be missed, their customer base will just move on to Gucci or something lol
WOOO!
I love her work however it’s based so much in the experience of being black in my opinion. I don’t think people who aren’t black or flamboyant can enjoy it at all. I wonder how long will this last. While I enjoy it very much how good is it standing on its own without the gimmicks of the runway and music?
I disagree. One of the beauties of art is the ability to share culture with people who don't usually have much exposure or access to it otherwise. Yes, there may be culture-specific stylings and influences, but I believe she does an incredible job at making clothes tastefully wearable for a broad audience. Her designs aren't exclusive to black people, nor do they even infer it. Even the runway models are of all different races. I see plenty of non-black people wearing her clothes and looking great in them. I'm Asian yet I enjoy her clothes
bro im white and i fw her
Brain-dead take. What makes her clothes more “flamboyant” than balenciaga? What makes her clothes so “black” to where it cant last and do you feel the same about Virgil and Pharrell’s LV?
@@pn-gr8tn you enjoy the clothes sure but do you participate in what it is that she offers??
I enjoy the clothes as well but to me they don’t stand out beyond the gimmicks on the runway and the aura that her show brings. Balenci Rick even FOG and other brands have their own design language which stands out beyond the runway and beyond the gimmicks. Maybe due to it mostly relying on its abstractness but Martine rose in my opinion is creating something so specific but yet normal at the same time. I can’t see this ever really growing beyond what it is now. A well respected brand but not for the masses. I can’t even see this stuff selling well really beyond the Nike stuff. And I say all of this as a fan.
@@balenseaga I’m black myself and her clothes are designed with black people in mind. For you to act as if it’s not is false. Sure she has whites and other races model it but the essence of the brand is very much black. I say this as a fan not a critic. I like her so much I would like to see her grow however I know by continuing what she’s doing now she won’t.
And the lot of you commenting to my response saying “I enjoy her clothes” that’s not what this argument is about.
Do her clothes stand out beyond the runway ? Do they grab the attention of people walking by? Are they really interesting? I believe her body of work is so cohesive from the runway the styling the music the walking the everything. The presentation is beautiful but without all of that, do the clothes stand out by themselves ?
Do they stand out on a regular guy or girl on the street? Or on a rack at the local outlet? Those are the questions I’m interested in and although I like her as a designer I don’t think so.