How To Change A Fuel Filter On A Marine Diesel Engine | BoatUS
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- čas přidán 11. 06. 2015
- BoatUS Magazine staff takes you through a filter change on a marine diesel engine step by step. After viewing this video, watch "How To Bleed A Diesel" to learn how to finish the process : • Bleeding A Marine Dies... To read more, visit www.boatus.com/expert-advice/...
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#boatus #changefuelfilter #fuelfilter #marinedieselfuelfilter - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Good information which should help boat owners to be able to do their own maintenance. Thanks.
Thanks for this video, very usefull!!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks mate! New Yanmar 3ym30 owner going through my first servicing of the motor. Helpful -
Ok, so you don't do anything with the sediment/dirt sitting on the bottom of the filter housing in the turbine blades. I imagine the filter deals with it itself.
2 Micron primaries may be Mark's preferences, however, using them violates both the filter and engine manufacturer's, Racor/Parker and Yanmar respectively, application guidelines. It's been a common misconception among boat owners for decades that it's preferable to use a 2 micron elements in a primary filter, in the mistaken belief that it will negate the need for replacement of the secondary filter. Doing so, however, not only violates manufacturer guidelines, it also effectively halves the overall filter surface area, assuming all debris is captured by the primary element. The science of filtration dictates that a sequential approach is more effective, which is why it's required by Racor, Yanmar and other filter manufacturers.
Was getting ready to make the same statement, thank you.
using 2 microns other than 10 wont it reduce the pressure on fuel system??
I don’t see you topping off with diesel fuel to reduce air in the system. I’ve been taught to do so - is that just a personal preference or does it depend on the size of the engine, the distance from filter to injectors, etc.?
It should have topped off before putting the top back on, as u could see the Racor had no or very little fuel in it.. thats how to make air Pockets..
How To Change A Fuel Filter On A Marine Diesel Engine #howto #Boating #marine
thanks sir.
SELVARAJ
Why did you not shut the fuel valve off first.......
+John Ahern
Not all boats have shut off valves, and indeed, although they may
be a good idea they are not mandated in ABYC guidelines and need not be fitted to diesel tanks. It should also be noted that the full hose connects, on the top of the tank, to a pick up pipe which runs down vertically inside the tank and draws fuel from the tank bottom - the pickup is usually about an inch from the lowest point.
Fuel delivery on diesels is of the positive suction type (which is discussed briefly in the video) and as soon as the top is released from the filter air is admitted breaking this suction. The only way that fuel would leak, or siphon into the boat, is if the bottom of the pick up pipe inside the tank were significantly higher than the filter housing which in this case it is not.
2 micron should never be used as the primary filter. 30 is OK, maybe a 10 but never 2.
+Victor Raymond thanks for watching!
As you are aware, the smaller the micron size the more dirt and
contaminants that the filer will remove from the fuel and as such the element will tend to clog sooner. A 2 micron filter will be fine in this application but may well require changing more frequently depending on the quality of the fuel in the tank. A drag meter added to the top of the filter housing, where the T handle fits, would be a good addition, and alerts the owner to a clogged filter well before it get clogged enough to cause an engine problem.
For my Yanmar 3ym30 recommends 10 micron as a happy medium...I guess it should depend on where you typically motor? Sea, lake, river etc..
The 2 "O" rings should NOT be discarded.
Good to have as emergency spares...
That is, you crimp/destroy either o ring and you're SOL (unless you have MULTIPLE spares),
But, since you SAVED your OLD one...you can TEMPORARILY use and get underway to the nearest chandlery for a NEW replacement.
Thanks for your comment, Romeo. I would, however, disagree with you on this. It would be better to have some spare fuel filters on board, which come complete with new O rings. Reusing old O rings could cause either a fuel leak or possibly introduce air into the fuel system, which could prevent the engine from running.
Granted, this guy knows more than I do, but ...
1) Shut off the fuel to the engine.
2) Don't use a 2 micron filter for primary.
3) Top up the new filter with fuel.
4) Lube the larger O-ring.
5) Re-open the fuel line to the engine.
Thanks for the summary, Dick. That said, for first-timers it's useful to go step by step.
Do you personally use Oil or just diesel to lube the O-ring?
Tools - precariously placed on a platform above the bilge.... I would have it no other way...
for a man diesel smells, it does not stink
And he didn't lub the oring(s) with a little oil, which I was taught to do.
Michael Gen Yes, spin on filter O-rings should be lubricated with a little oil. The type of Racor filter body used in the video does not require lubrication. Plus, there is always a little diesel remaining in the seating groove, so adding extra diesel is not necessary.
Oh! Never mind. Thank you couldn't tell from video.
@@michaelgen1631 They should be lubricated, always..
Wow lots of steps missing in this video. I am surprised that BoatUS keeps this video. If you are new to this, find another video.
What about removing all that muck he disturbed with his screwdriver, all vry strange.
Hi Jo, thanks for your input. The dirt in the bottom looks worse than it actually was. Although I drained the bowl along with much of the dirt, some did remain. However, to get the bowl completely clean, the filter glass has to be removed from the filter carrier which was outside the scope of this video. However, we may be covering the rebuilding of the filter carrier and housing in a future video. Thanks again!
When does he drain the water collection bowl at the bottom of the fuel filter? Unless the bowl is drained, only a part of the problems are eliminated?
Also, he must top off the fuel filter container with fresh, clean fuel after draining. If he skips this important step, the engine may stall with fuel starvation 10 or so minutes into running.
This was a neat, but incorrect videol
Stuart Bell Thanks for the comment. One of the great features of the Racor filter is that the filter bowl is made of glass so it is easy to see if there is water or other contaminates that need to
be drained off. In our case the bowl was clear.
Also, it can be good idea to prefill the filter with fuel before popping the top back on, but as mentioned towards the end of the video, the next step will be to bleed air from the system (as highlighted in companion video: czcams.com/video/6cPRVzIXDbM/video.html). This was done using the lift pump.
@@boatus Stuart may be correct. I too suspect much air will be trapped in the upper section of the 500xx Racor filter body since the air will float above the fuel. This air will have no easy means of escape out of the fuel outlet port while bleeding or running -- at least until the boat is bouncing or healing. This trapped air if it exists may leave the filter element only knee deep in fuel. The Racor guide on filter changes is to"fill the chamber with fuel" (gravity fed or pumped from the tank or from a separate container ). Of course, this design can't be fully bled of air (no bleed port) but a small volume stays floating, well clear of the ports that are low down. www.parker.com/Literature/Racor/Tech_Install/15332_500FG_Turbine_Series.pdf
@@darrellstreet90 Thanks for adding your thoughts, Darrell! Someone may find them helpful.
@@darrellstreet90 it should have been filled with fuel before the lid was on, always.. The guy changing this filter probably works in an office and is not really a boater, or at least not a fuel filter changer..