Another nicely illustrated video. There seems to be a lot of discussion and confusion about the white o-ring used with the oil filter. The procedure that you followed to replace the oil filter is basically the same as I've used on my GS/PD for 20+ years. Some minor differences are that I don't always disconnect the banjo bolts to/from the oil cooler and I usually dab a bit of grease on the white and black o-rings to hold them in place whilst attaching the cover. Nice job with the video.
r t , thanks for the comment. It never occurred to me to try leaving the banjo bolts connected. I'll give it a try next time. Greasing the o-rings is good too.
could you post more info about the drive shaft and the gear oil...finding it hard to understand how to fill up the gear oil...would be great having a video .
Thx so much for advice sir! Mine is 79 gold rs 100. And have r 80 gs first generation...rs is electronic ignition...is it normal that the battery in the latter is inprisoned by the frame?...what is the trick to get acces?
Never seen or heard of a tool for draining an oil cooler. All I do is let the lines hang once they are detached from the oil filter cover and let gravity do the rest.
What oil u use? And my motoroil still is goldenbrown but been in 10 years, but was was new then, also filter...starting up with the old oil and testdrive, and change in the first 100 miles or so? Should i spray some wd 40 in, the plughole, before restarting? In case, what product would u prelube the cylinders? Thx for good videos! bob the belgian.
Hi Bob. For the engine use a good quality oil. I now use Motul 10W/50 synthetic, but up until recently I used old fashioned Castrol 20W/50 mineral. My engine has done 615000 km and is still on the original crank, cylinders, pistons etc. So what I use seems to work. If your engine has not been started for a long time, but has been kept in a dry place, I would start by checking it over (tappets, timing etc.), Then I would drain the oil from the sump and refill with fresh. Pour about 5 ml of engine oil in each cylinder and crank the engine on the starter (without starting) for a few seconds to distribute the oil around the cylinder. Then take the bike for a gentle ride, (the exhaust will smoke at first, until the oil burns off in the cylinder) say 50 km, then drain the engine oil again and refill with new oil and filter For the gearbox and final drive I use a good quality synthetic 80W/90 gear oil with a GL5 specification, very important. Also remember to change the fork oil and the brake fluid if you have hydraulic brakes. All the best Guy
In my opinion any well known engine oil of the appropriate viscosity and specification for your region of the world will be okay. You can find this data in a workshop manual or owner’s handbook. E.g. for my R100GSPD here in the U.K. BMW recommend a 20W/50 viscosity that has API classifications SE,SF and SG; combinations with CC and CD specifications. Personally I don’t have a brand that I stick to religiously. My bike has done over 400000 miles and is still running on all the original main engine components. All I do is ensure that the oil I use meets the above specs as a minimum. Nowadays however, I tend to use semi-synthetic since it is easier to obtain than the original mineral lubricant that was common years ago.
No, not necessary to alter torque. Just make sure washer is in good condition and anneal it if necessary. I always anneal new copper washers as they will harden over time.
Another nicely illustrated video. There seems to be a lot of discussion and confusion about the white o-ring used with the oil filter. The procedure that you followed to replace the oil filter is basically the same as I've used on my GS/PD for 20+ years. Some minor differences are that I don't always disconnect the banjo bolts to/from the oil cooler and I usually dab a bit of grease on the white and black o-rings to hold them in place whilst attaching the cover. Nice job with the video.
r t , thanks for the comment. It never occurred to me to try leaving the banjo bolts connected. I'll give it a try next time. Greasing the o-rings is good too.
could you post more info about the drive shaft and the gear oil...finding it hard to understand how to fill up the gear oil...would be great having a video .
Yes, I will be posting video about this soon.
Do you have to take the exhaust pipe off to remove the oil cooler hoses?
Thx so much for advice sir! Mine is 79 gold rs 100. And have r 80 gs first generation...rs is electronic ignition...is it normal that the battery in the latter is inprisoned by the frame?...what is the trick to get acces?
How did you drain your oil cooler? I thought it took a special tool
Never seen or heard of a tool for draining an oil cooler. All I do is let the lines hang once they are detached from the oil filter cover and let gravity do the rest.
Buen trabajo y buena información,feliz 2017✌🏻️
Gracias, y un 2017 feliz y próspero a usted también.
What oil u use? And my motoroil still is goldenbrown but been in 10 years, but was was new then, also filter...starting up with the old oil and testdrive, and change in the first 100 miles or so?
Should i spray some wd 40 in, the plughole, before restarting?
In case, what product would u prelube the cylinders?
Thx for good videos! bob the belgian.
Hi Bob. For the engine use a good quality oil. I now use Motul 10W/50 synthetic, but up until recently I used old fashioned Castrol 20W/50 mineral. My engine has done 615000 km and is still on the original crank, cylinders, pistons etc. So what I use seems to work.
If your engine has not been started for a long time, but has been kept in a dry place, I would start by checking it over (tappets, timing etc.), Then I would drain the oil from the sump and refill with fresh. Pour about 5 ml of engine oil in each cylinder and crank the engine on the starter (without starting) for a few seconds to distribute the oil around the cylinder. Then take the bike for a gentle ride, (the exhaust will smoke at first, until the oil burns off in the cylinder) say 50 km, then drain the engine oil again and refill with new oil and filter
For the gearbox and final drive I use a good quality synthetic 80W/90 gear oil with a GL5 specification, very important.
Also remember to change the fork oil and the brake fluid if you have hydraulic brakes.
All the best
Guy
Remember, if the bike has been laid up a long time, this is not all, to get the best from it, the bike should have a thorough service.
Thanks for great videos and advise!
Hi there what engine oil would you recommend for an r80/7 regards mick
In my opinion any well known engine oil of the appropriate viscosity and specification for your region of the world will be okay. You can find this data in a workshop manual or owner’s handbook. E.g. for my R100GSPD here in the U.K. BMW recommend a 20W/50 viscosity that has API classifications SE,SF and SG; combinations with CC and CD specifications. Personally I don’t have a brand that I stick to religiously. My bike has done over 400000 miles and is still running on all the original main engine components. All I do is ensure that the oil I use meets the above specs as a minimum. Nowadays however, I tend to use semi-synthetic since it is easier to obtain than the original mineral lubricant that was common years ago.
Does the torque spec changes by not using new crushwasher?
No, not necessary to alter torque. Just make sure washer is in good condition and anneal it if necessary. I always anneal new copper washers as they will harden over time.
How could BMW come up with... and stick with... such a pain in the ass oil filter ?
Asante sana
You are welcome.
I don't think you put the washers between the oil feed pipes and the filter cover plate.
Yes I did, sorry it was not obvious on the video, but they were in place. Thanks for the comment.
Wrap you pipe with tin foil before removing your OF cover. You're welcome.