Restoring the Trunk Floor on a 1967 Mustang
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- čas přidán 28. 07. 2022
- Restoring the trunk floor on any car can be tricky, but this one is a little harder because this one is cut 1 inch in for Mini Tubs. This meant I had to modify my frame rails a bit and come up with some creative solutions to my problems. Hopefully, this video will save someone the time I spent figuring it out.
I used the Dynacorn 3649SF trunk floor for 1-inch mini tubs. I installed it on a 1967 mustang, but it fits multiple years.
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🔩Parts used in this video🔩
Disclaimer
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My videos are for entertainment purposes and not for expert automotive advice. I am definitely not an Automotive expert.
I like to show the struggles that most channels make look easier than they really are. I build our cars inside my garage with the limited tools I have available. I hope you still find my failures entertaining and have a great day! - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Like your videos and I get more out of them than jo daddy's garage videos...high praise!! One of your videos answered a dimension question I have scoured dozens of videos to answer. I am starting on a 65 mustang coupe. Thanks.
Your attention to detail is impressive. It’ll eliminate problems like rust, from creeping back. Great job.
Thanks, it’s getting there slowly but surely. I just hope I can have it finished before Austin retires 😅
@@TheDailyDrift⁶⁶⁶k
Just a quick note that most weld through primers are not actually to be welded on. You still have to grind down your weld area after applying the primer if you are making plug welds. 3M 05917 for example needs to be ground off in your weld area or it contaminates the weld as per the instructions on the can. I really liked the video, I have a similar undertaking in the works on my car!
You're pretty well like me in the whole fix one thing snowballs into more side quests.
I fixed the top of the a-pillars on my 81 mustang, and that turned into a upper and lower cowl, both fron floor pans, a pair of rocker panels as well as a pair of quarter panels
Thank you from France, where i have the same work on a cabriolet 66, i learned a lot with your highly detailed views.
One step at the time ! Great job !
Good job Man, with the one-piece pan!
Thanks! It’s a huge relief. Now I just gotta get the energy to tackle the tubs and quarters 😅
@@TheDailyDrift You got this!
Thanks for sharing it
Great video side note I can see you driving that iroc on the Jersey shore you just need a pinky ring 😂
Thanks, Maybe next time I'm in Jersey lol
Unintentional Mini Tube frame notch
Was looking through your other videos and was unable to find anything on how you removed the rear of the car. I can't seem to find any seams where the rear section can be removed, so did you just cut it off to be able to slide the pan in through the back?
So I ended up cutting up the rear quarters to save the light panel. My rear quarters were shot so I planned on removing them anyway. If you want to keep the quarters there are spot welds near the light panel that the quarters weld to. Sometimes they are covered by body filler and are hard to see. Hard to explain in text but there is a book on Amazon about all the spot weld locations. I think it’s $30, but it’s totally worth it if you’re doing a lot of work on these cars. Hope that helps.
@@TheDailyDrift Hey thanks a ton man. Awesome you're replying so fast on a video that's a year old. Best information I've seen in a trunk pan video by a long shot keep it up.
@@donjoewon4739 anytime, just glad to help where I can. Good luck with your build 🫡
No disrespect but air hammers/chisels are the fast and lazy way out. I've seen on many occasions where they tear good metal out and create a mess that you have to go back and fix. Get a sharp chisel and a hammer after grinding or drilling the spot welds out. Something you can control. Or if its a piece you're not trying to save grind it down over the spot weld and it will be thin enough where you can take a screwdriver and pry to separate the pieces.
good tips...,do you have any links that show some of your techniques used? thanks in advance
Air chisels are good. The chisel itself makes the difference. A good chisel has 2 different sides !! Each side has it function.
I don't understand why you have to cut the rear frames?? Normally you don't have to. Something is wrong ! My 2 eurocent .
depends on how wide of tubs you want. Detroit Speed has a kit that cuts sections of the frame rails out and splices in some notched pieces. Dynacorn makes some notched frame rails for tubs also, if you are replacing them.
at this point why did t you just buy a new chassis from ford, love the effort tho keep it up
No offense..
But that car is a Rustang.....I know it's expensive but you may want to consider just buying a new frame or new frame rails and
just buy all new sheet metal.