Trying To Get Rid Of The Rust On My 1965 Mustang !
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- čas přidán 10. 01. 2022
- ►Hey Guys , In today's video we try to get rid of the rust on the front end of the 1965 mustang . We got a lot of it off but some of it is tougher than expected ! Enjoy
►Film/Editing- / mqqrk
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Don't widen it! Plus the rust removal is going well. Sand-blasting is the way ahead. Keep researching. It's worth it.
Should take the measurements off this one and widen the other one. Keep it oe. As soon as I heard " widen" my heart sank!!
Just want to note on the firewall flex: it is only 16 to 18 ga sheet metal. On a piece that size it'll always flex. Remember: you're welding the lower and upper cowl pieces to it which will stiffen it up immensely.
Be sure to save every part you take off until the end of the build.from experience they are good to have to reference back to or you may need to reuse something if you can't find a replacement.
The dream. I just want to take a sandblaster and go crazy.
I have a pressurized blaster I got from Harbor freight (not sponsored) that I use with crushed walnuts. Works well and is quite satisfying until you have to cleanup!😂
@@jessielivermore1826 I don't think anyone would think you were sponsored lol
@Blair how can we take you seriously when your not sponsored “LOL 😂” just do it outside and no clean up, it’s all biodegradable right..
@@one.2622 00
@@KeithHavelin that's what I thought until I started researching. Apparently walnut shells take forever to degrade because of the density. Not a big deal but I wanted to put them in my compost which breaks down faster. My solution is to put down a tarp, try to reuse some and let the squirrels have the rest. Your welcome squirrels 🐿️
The new cameraman/editor is going to blow this channel up! Great work brotha.
The new background music is cool too !
Love to see everything is going well. Definitely sandblasting the dash is the right way to go. You would be surprised how easy it done. Keep the content coming. Loving it.
You can rent a portable sand blaster and clean the rust while the dash is still mounted . Makes for much easier and faster work. Just a heads up
or carr the guy with the portable dry ice blaster and save yourself time and money
DUH I never thought of renting one haha...I put up some links to ones you can buy. They DO make a mess but make quick work of stripping......(better than waving a $20 at a pole dancer lol)
Best thing you ever did was get an editor and buy this shop. THE CONTENT IS BANGING
That suspension you showed us is great. It will perform perfectly. Yeah your right just drill out the spot welds in the dash and get a new one. The whole car is mostly rust free don't need sand blasting. Yeah gotta keep the cost down somewhere and it does not really need to be sand blasted. This car is in exceptional condition when it comes to rusty body parts. Only the front end that got burnt needs to be worked on. I think the dash got burnt so bad it is annealed. It will be too soft and bendy and rusty so there is a lot messy problems with it. Get rid of it.
Really like how you actually work on the car the entire video. You’re not showing us the trip to O’Reilly’s, showing us your dog, hitting the drive through for lunch, or talking excessively to make the video seem longer while doing 5 minutes of work. Keep up the good work man.
The process of this rebuild is going great!! Keep on grinding
This is going well Ben Glad to hear you've sourced a custom suspension.
Keep their number they'll be able to help get the fastback suspension sorted too.
Try to sand blast the old dash if you can.
Another idea is maybe invest in a 3d printer to make custom plastic parts and mounts to mount or convert modern upgraded parts to fit inplace of the originals.
At this point you're a professional youtuber. Act like you don't care about the budget, don't cut corners and do things the way they're supposed to be. Trust the process. Believe in yourself with this tempo this channel will blow up. All the investmenst will be worth it! You're an excellent builder make those cars perfect you can do this !! Professionalism = perfectionism. LET'S GOOOO
Great work Ben, all these videos are very much appreciated during difficult times 👍😉
Ben, so glad to see you wearing PPE. I’m no safety nerd but hurt myself so many times over the years before learning how important protecting yourself is. We can’t grow a new eye or lung👍👍
Ben go for it I con't wait for the next video. I'm sure you are learning new things every time you do a new build. Watching for sunny Hermanus 🌞 South Africa 🇿🇦
I don't know why, but I'm enjoying your content a lot more now that you have your own shop. Seems more personal, like a one on one interaction. Like I'm there helping you restore the car except, you know, you're doing all the work. In any case, keep up the great work. I can't wait to see how this turns out!
Great series. Enjoying the Mustang vids. Can't beat them!! It's going be 🔥🔥when it's complete
Wow man!!!! That rust removal was incredible, didn’t expect so much to come off. Love the vids bro
Hate sound like a boomer but I guess that’s what I am. I enjoy this channel because you guys are learning as you go, a lot like I did when these cars were only 10-15 years old. Keep gettin after it man! You ain’t afraid of work and I already know the paint and bodywork isn’t going to be a problem for you, I’ve seen what you can do. It’s the engineering, what comes first, and the processes that are trippin you up a little right now but you’ll get it. I agree with everyone posting sand blasting is your next step. Not even the whole car, just where the fire damage is and maybe some spot repairs in a few other places. A kit from HF is pretty cheap but it takes a lot of CFM from your compressor. It’s pretty messy too but it works well and not a budget buster at all.
Keep up the great videos! Loving the content and tons of videos your putting out!
First incarnation of Ford's "Pony Car". Made to be light-weight with an RPM responsive engine. What you propose (HP motor swap) will lead you to a path of structural modifications. It will not stop at the front clip alone. Torque twist, safety reinforcement & traction was adequate at that time. You are now in a new era. Thanks for sharing your early reminiscence.
The mustang firewall is flimsy when new. Looks good to me. Just repair the rust, weld in the cowl lower section, get the small tabs off the parts you removed, one for the heater box and one up behind the gauge assembly. That’s the ones I remember. Hope this helps.
Loving the consistency. Keep up the hard work bro.
The key thing you said was doing what’s best for the car ! The stang is a resto mod , not rusto mod , I would replace the dash with new and not have to worry later in the cars life , just weld in new sheet metal on that lip and floor area , that new front suspension will make this car drive totally different, you’ll have to beef up the rear end to match the front, this car is going to be bad azz !👍🏼😄
I jus wanna thank you for being consistent with these vids i know its not easy…. Been watching forever great job. I also learned a few things thanks to you
Thanks for the toasty update. I have been an advocate from day one on this being a job for the sandblaster. I know it’s not cheap to do but let’s face it, you say it’s your dream car. An hours drive is nothing. No disrespect in any way, shape or form, but if it’s really 1500.00 to do it that’s also peace of mind. You will find every repair done to that car. You can correct the repairs like the floor board that we improperly done. You can literally build this car from the tires to the roof, brand new. Seriously Ben, give it some serious consideration. You should be able to get rid of 99% of the rust. They may be able to get into hidden areas you couldn’t normally reach. You might get a better deal show casing the company that does the media blasting. As always it is yours. I am just saying if it were mine, it would be a done deal. Keep us in the loop.
You got this Ben, you always knew how to deal with things, not to mention you can always reach out to motorhead and 23rd garage 😉 for extra expertise but sand blasting would be a good route and since the firewall is cheap you can go that route either way I keep watching keep up the good work.
Good to see the camera man Mark getting in on the fun. Sure helps on those tedious projects!
Love the consistent uploads ! Very cool build, i like the way this channel is evolving. It's gonna be great to watch this place grow!
Great vid.. Keep at this.. dying to see it run
Dude you are killing it with the continuous content 👏 you and Mark are a great duo! Keep up the great videos! Been following since day 1 sky's the limit 🤟
The song at 13 minutes in is the same song as Dirt Lifestyle uses for his intro on videos, knew I'd heard it somewhere else before! Great work lads
vTuned is giving time to read all our comments and gave hearts all of that so much appreciated, again can wait to see this classic car on the road
You have to try Chassis Saver!!! it's a thick black primer that neutralizes rust. I use it all the time on restoration projects. I had a 70 Camaro Z28 the drive shaft was original but rust pitted pretty bad. I sanded it down then coated it with Chassis Saver, after it dried I sanded down the Chassis Saver in a few spots all the way down and dug out the rust pits with a pick and the rust was gone! I sanded down the Chassis Saver with 180 grit sprayed some regular primer on it and painted over it and it looked like a brand new drive shaft. Check it out it's like 25 bucks a quart but I know you will love it once you see how good it works
Yea! Love all the extra uploads x😃
That dash is 'cluster-funked'.Whatever you decide,remember to put in the heater core,and air-con Before you put the 2 cowl pieces in.The new suspension kit they're sending is so bada$$.BTW:"Inline-6".No "V'.(just a little yank on your chain).
Love how the shop is staying clean 🧼 good job with everything the channel is going crazy
Great to see you in your new shop. Thanks for all the great videos. Cheers from Brisbane Australia
Good to have the recurring content back. Cool build
this is awesome to watch nice work guys
Just sandblast the dash. Use PLAY sand. It's the finest sand. Also its important to get your airpressure set correctly. To do that use one of the scrap pieces from the cowl that you have. The rebuild is going great 👍
Hi Ben. Try sandblasting first. Every time you remove a body part, there is movement in the body. Take it outside and get a mobile sandblaster " advertising " and take your time...I think you`ll be surprised how good it works. Keep at it big guy. If you can build a McLaren, you can do any thing. As always a big like from me.....
If the metal is burned... tapping it gently with the handle of a screwdriver will help you determine if the panel is still useable. The more hollow the sound, the more damage to the metal. Your baseline should be an undamaged area.
yeah fire has a habit of tempering the metal to the point of weakening it
The "more" damage to the metal. Melting point of steel is around 2500 deg....a "fire" really shouldn't change the chemical composition of steel that much, specially in a dashboard. It'll warp it, but I don't think it's going to "damage" it as much as it seems.
Remember: the top of that firewall was welded to TWO cowl pieces. That's what gave it its strength/rigidity. That's why new cars all have ribs and edges etc in all their panels, thinner metal.
@@muskokamike127 MORE SO LIKE THE TEMPER OF THE METAL I FORGET WHAT THEY CALL IT
@@rsprockets7846 Well, it's more like annealing, removing the stress on the metal when it was pressed into shape.
These panels aren't tempered, which is the heating of the metal until it's cherry red then cooling it slowly. (Hardening is when you heat it then cool it rapidly). They are die cut and stamped into shape. I"m thinking if the fire got it hot, then the firemen doused it with water, it would make it stiffer, not softer......
@Muskoka Mike it’s the microstructure of the metal that is impacted by the heat, rather than it’s chemical makeup. A paper on car fires says that temperatures can reach 900C, or around 1650F. Cold rolled steel recrystallizes at around 550C, so temperatures reached in a fire can soften the metal by annealing the work hardening gained during the cold rolling and stamping processes.
To clean up those lapped over patches you need new toe boards which are included with a full fire wall panel but you can also get them separately. The fire wall is just a bit flimsy without the lower and outer cowl panels welded on. Your firewall will keep if you decide to keep it. For the rust out on the top flange of the firewall all you need to do is cut the original metal out until it thickens back up and then weld in a patch. It shouldn't be too large looking at what you have and you should be able to make that piece.
You can put big meat under one of these cars without having to wide body the car but you will likely need to flare the fenders some to get the clearance you need along with some deeper backspacing wheels. It all depends on how wide you plan to go that will dictate how much flare will be needed. The rear is a lot easier to stuff big tires under. The front is where you get a rub either on the frame rail or the lip of the fender. Big honking flares do not look good on these cars though(see Hoonigan's car) but they are functional so that is something at least.
The habor freight sand blaster works great if you have enough air pressure. I used walnut with a tarp down and had to use 125psi minimum. The tarp allowed me to reuse the walnuts and save some money. Worked on a 68 Mustang rust great.
Enjoying the progress, slow and right works!
I like the lapel (lav) mic addition. Just a little confused why you have it upside down.
Anyways, I'm excited for this build, and hope it all comes together!
Get this guy to the one million subs!
Hi Ben
Just a tip mate if you can you need to spray some NS4 into the frame.
A lot of the rust comes from the inside to the outside.
Any protection you can give this way will make that vehicle last a lot longer.
Ns4 is used in the marine industry.
Stay safe mate.
It’s a lot of work but I’d replace that firewall. In a unibody car it’s a structural member. Unless you are going to fully cage this car, with the amount of power you are talking about putting in this car you will need every bit of strength you can get. There is no doubt that the fire weakened the firewall. Replace it.
farm and fleet has a sandblater that you use with shop air and you get a 5 gallon bucket and media. you could do it on the side of the shop. i've done this a few times. it works pretty good. Super cheap and good content. Love the build.
That car is so beautiful, whether it’s burned or not, you made it look beautiful! Thank you 😊
I'm in UK so not certain how much tools cost over there, but pretty sure for less than $1500 you could buy a portable pressure sandblast pot and a compressor then blast the rust yourself. You need to be careful if blasting body panels as they can warp if you use too higher pressure due to heat build up but shouldn't have any problems cleaning firewall and chassis rails etc. It would save hours of work and make a superior job 👍👍
Great work on the rust . Congratulations on the new shop . The future is looking bright 😀
One crispy critter at a time.I know you know what you're doing but I appreciate you "dumming it up" a little bit for guys like me. I like your sense of humor btw. Git R Done!
Your vidss are getting better and better by the day I'm really enjoying the mustang build you're getting better than the goon squad I enjoy your channel better💯💯💯💯💯
Proud of the channel going. Keep up the good work man!
If you sand blast just make sure you keep the air really dry with a minimum 2 stage air dryer then it won’t plug up. Sand blasting will work great on those areas just be careful on any flat panels as it will warp it if your not very careful 😬
Keep up the great videos I’m really enjoying them !
V if your considering doing your own sandblasting, maybe that concrete hard-stand on the side of your new shop would be a good place to do it. (It’s far too messy to use inside the shop) if you can get the car back to near original appearance I think that would be the best way to go value-wise. 5 stud wheels and discs all round will look great buddy! 👍😊👌
Loving the frequent uploads and the mustang build 👌
One option would be to acid dip the whole car and rust primer it straight away. Will show what condition all the metall is in.
That steering post should be the first thing to go. The restomod replacements tilt and have a great power steering setup too.
The rust removal is going well. The Mustang is looking great as you get ready to put the new metal on. 👍🇨🇦
Looks good Ben. Love seeing the content. “Saving the environment as we speak”. Love the channel!
Nice video and cant wait to see how good this car will be at the end !
Damn homie pushing these vids out def becoming my fav auto youtuber
Make sure you neutralize that evaporust while its still wet. Basically apply another coat nd wash it off with water then dry it. If not there will be a film and while it will look clean, nothing is going to adhere to the metal.
I was wondering about that...I used a citrus based degreaser and applied clear on top....I forgot to wash it off and it rusted UNDER the clear coat. Luckily the customer wanted the rustic look......
Really enjoying this series, such a cool car.
Pretty epic build, good on ya bro.
The wire wheel does wonders, Its looks bad ass, keep the videos rolling.
Man you guys are good at what you do
I bet the rust hole on the passenger floor pan probably came from the heater core regulators, that works with that cable for regulating the heat. The O-ring in there rots out and then it leaks coolant down onto the passenger side floor board. If sits long enough the carpeting it will create a rust hole.👍
Love new video style and you post every day... thumbs up
When you get to replacing the cowl, punch a hole on each side and place a tube to drain the water.
powder coat the cowl both sides???
@@rsprockets7846 even with a powder coat, standing water will eventually corrode the paint. Down and out is the best way to deal with water.
That 'silver' brush is steel bristle. The 'gold' ones are brass. You don't want to sand blast sheet metal panels. The panels can easily warp. The best would be soda blasting.
Coming along good man. Don't feel bad about the rusty crusty sh*t, you'll get her running in no time.
She already looks much much better! I can feel her starting to live again. Be careful, her name might be Christine... Can't wait so se her being on the road again!
Awesome video, loving the new format! Music was sick this ep! :)
Amazing work as always brother. Beast
I’ve been anxiously awaiting this progress. I’m digging the ‘Stang builds.
might want to plan on the vintage air kit and see how it fits on firewall and plan ahead to see how it fits and make changes now...same deal with the brake MC and booster, go hydroboost maybe?
Awesome video VTUNED.
Damn I wish I had the money to do this stuff. Your work is amazing!
You can! Doesn't have to be a Mustang! Start with a random old car and rebuilt and sell it!
Do not sand blast the car because it will warp the metal. As far as the dash goes, they have paint that you can put on the rust and it cleans & coats it so you don't have to change the dash at all . The top of the firewall just cut that strip & weld a new one on bro. Keep up the great work and God Bless you and your family.
Loving how VTuned is coming across as more cool calm and collected in this new shop. Even his pattern of speech sounds more slow and comfortable.
Wall looks clean 🔥🔥
Cant wait for this to be finish 💙
Cortex Racing is amazing...their parts are like works of art...AND they function. Had them build a custom front suspension on my Camaro back in the day and it was on RAILS!!!
Suspension looks sick, can't wait to see that go on! Nice work 😎
The editing is amazing
Nice job Ben keep up the good work
In order for that Evaporust to work you have to soak parts in it, 24 hours would be nice and then scrub it with with ScotchBrite and water.
It does work amazing, try leaving some rusted bolts in a cup of Evaporust overnight you will be surprised how well it worked.
EvapoRust is propably one of the best rust removers out there. It just needs a day or two to work its magic. If it's out in the open like in this case, you'll need to apply it every few hours so it doesnt dry up.
You need to go to Lowe's or something and get a proper shop vac! 😁👍 Great work guys, kleep it up! 😛
It s going to be an awsome build!
Its coming out awesome 👌 lots of hard work but it would be worth it yeah sand blasting will help the process faster
In the process of doing rear frame rails on a 66. Most of the time and work is not spent actually welding or cutting, there’s a ton of prep and research that goes into it, measurements galore!!
One of the best content on CZcams
Hello guys from the Yorkshire UK 🇬🇧