Fix doorbell chime buzzing after Ubiquiti G4 Pro doorbell installed
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- čas přidán 5. 12. 2022
- After installing my smart doorbell from Ubiquiti, the G4 Pro Doorbell, I first noticed the doorbell chime wasn't ringing at all. After, I installed a higher amperage transformer which fixed the chime ringing. However, after my doorbell chime would make a constant low annoying buzzing, humming, or rumbling sound.
This is because smart doorbells don't completely cut off the voltage being sent to the doorbell chime between rings like a simple doorbell button does. I believe the G4 Pro Doorbell's relay accessory is supposed to fix that, but it did not in my case which let about 3.5 volts of power reach the chime causing the chime striker to vibrate making the humming or buzzing noise.
To fix the doorbell chime from humming I added a 10 ohm 5 watt resistor between the transformer and front chime terminals which reduced the voltage by about half which fixed the issue. This should work similarly for other smart doorbells from Ring, Blink, or Amcrest if you are encountering a similar issue with your doorbell chime humming while idle.
Parts list below (As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases from links marked paid):
10 ohm 5v resistor - amzn.to/3h87J0C (paid link)
Doorbell chime - amzn.to/3HhmzfV (paid link)
Doorbell transformer - amzn.to/3gZCSn2 (paid link)
Always double check with a qualified electrician before attempting something similar in your own setup to be safe. - Jak na to + styl
Thank you this was extremely helpful having the same problem with our second doorbell chime in the house upstairs. Appreciate this information. A great help. Thank you.
you're a genius. This was driving me nuts, saves me from calling an electrician.
Glad to hear!
Good idea. Still not sure why we require an EE degree to install a Ubiquity G4 doorbell pro though... Kinda had a this preconceived notion that a $200+ product should sorta work out of the box without additional electrical components.
I used a 10 ohm resistor from an old LG Plasma TV power supply. That got rid of the annoying hum in my doorbell that my Skybell HD doorbell camera was causing.
Thank you - this worked perfectly for me.
Glad to hear
Utter genius - Thank you so much
You're welcome!
Great video - thank you!!
I put my front and rear doorbell in parallel, fixed the issue. Only side effect is both doorbells run simultaneously.
Thank you for this!!! Now, if I have 2 doorbells - front and rear, I'll need to put another resistor to the reartrans leads, right?
Great video, do you know have any info on how to write the adapter from UniFi to the mechanical doorbell?
I'm wondering if using a 2w 10 olm resistor would work OK with that camera doorbell system? Will a 2w get too hot?
I measured trans and front and am getting 12.8 reading, do you have any suggestions for me? Thanks
hello, can i put those 2 black wires together? my chime was removed so it is hanging on the wall. i am installing a ring doorbell 2nd generation and it does not need a pro power kit. a pro power kit is attached to this 2 black wires( trans and front) right now. so when i remove the power kit should i keep the 2 black wires together or apart. thanks hope you can reply soon.
Hello David! I saw this and it was an eye opener. My chimes are at 14 V! Which means it seems to be constantly on! I have actually had my chimes disconnected and just running the SkyBell. Would it make sense to put in a resistor, or see if there is short circuit somewhere?
Will it work for ring door bell?
If i still have around 2.30v on chime, what should I do?
I've got the exact same buzz, however it persists even when I take my smart doorbell off of the leads.
Turn the indoor ring off , in setting .
Be cautious on the chosen resistor. They build up heat and can fail spectacularly causing fire.
What would you recommend for this particular application? Thanks in advance
3.5 Volts / 5 Ohms = 0.7 Amp, or 2.45 Watts.
Wouldn't a higher resistance resistor reduce the energy waste?
Well, I did the connection with an 8 ohm resistor from Amazon (actually bought the whole 20 - or 30-piece kit rather than hunt for a single resistor. It was maybe $10CDN), and it appears to have worked.
That buzzing was seriously interfering with my tinnitus keeping me up.
Thanks.
Nice video, ddid you do a video on the actual install?
Yes, but I've been procrastinating reviewing the raw footage and editing it all together :D
Thank you for posting this valuable information. But I saw in video, you push button and wirelessly chime rang. So , how you did that , can you please explain. Thanks
Thanks. I'm not sure what you mean about it wirelessly ringing though.
Oh , I got it now . I thought door bell and chime wireless, but after watching again, found two different places, so not wireless. My bad . But thanks again.
@@jituxx7570 in the time since making the video Ubiquiti did release a wireless chime that you plug in to a normal AC outlet and then you don't use the mechanical one if that is what you are looking for. It works over Ubiquiti wifi.
Ok good. But no , I also have with wire system, and same problem, but now learned, and ordered from Amazon link .
Mines doing the same, why not just remove the chime entirely and wirenut the lines together? My transformer is in the basement, and feeds the chime, and the chime feeds the doorbells.
You’re not supposed to get all that buzzing when you install the ring doorbell they give you a power pack and that they say works with 16 V so that means there’s something wrong with the ring doorbell and it’s up to them to correct it
So I added the resistor using the link you provided and follow the steps exactly as you described, and I still have some buzzing. It initially does stop the buzz but then within a few hours it starts to come back. Any suggestions?
Wildly speculating because there are too many unknowns but it could be undersized for your particular setup. If that is the case you’d want to discontinue use because it could overheat. Readings would need to be taken with a tool like a multimeter to get more specifics to troubleshoot that. Please check with a qualified electrician if this is not something you are familiar with for safety.
Increase the resistance
Thanhs my Man 👍🙏
I has the same problem when I install mine. There is a setting on the software of the doorbell. In my case just changing the type of door chime from digital (default one) to mechanical solve the problem.
Yes that should be everyone’s step 1 if they have a mechanical chime. Before setting that on mine I wasn’t getting any chime at all.
@twconsulting This solution also works for me. Saved me time and uncertainty. Lol. Thanks for the tip!
How did you determine the wattage you needed for the resistor? I’ve seen people saying they used as low as half a watt but that seems liable to go bang.
The higher watt rating means it has more capacity to dissipate the heat from the power it absorbs. Here is some good reading on that www.electronics-tutorials.ws/resistor/res_7.html
@reallyMello is yours still working? I have a wyze v2 doorbell and my chimebox hums pretty loud. I'm about to order a resistor, but I worry about it getting too hot. So can you please let me know if yours is still working fine?
@stevenbaker1972 mine is still working fine but I ensured it was sized appropriately so it doesn’t get overly hot
@@reallyMello Thank you!
Is there any safety risk to a buzzing or humming chime?
Yes, your wife will kill you if you dont fix it😮
Is it normal for the resistor to get warm/hot?
They do turn the excess voltage to heat, but if it is getting hot you may be exceeding the voltage the resistor is rated for which would cause it to burn up which is dangerous.
What are the specs on your transformer.. 16v 30va or 16v 10va?
Originally I had a 10va but that was underpowered so this one in the video was the upgraded 16v 30va. I have the link to it in the video description.
Can yo tell me the description of the resistor found in Amazon, please ?
The link doesn’t show you?
@@reallyMello , yes at the time to request you the information, I realized that you gave the information, thank you !
!
After installing my ring, my chime doesn't work properly. There is no more ding dong, there is a ding, then there is five to six seconds of buzzing, then finally the dong. Any ideas? New upgraded transformer.
Did you check their compatibility list already? I found a list here support.help.ring.com/hc/en-gb/articles/210644123-Ring-Video-Doorbell-1st-Generation-Chime-Kit-Compatibility-List#:~:text=If%20you're%20unsure%20what,hammer%20or%20an%20electronic%20speaker.&text=Angelo%20Brothers%20Co.&text=Note%3A%20The%20Ring%20Video%20Doorbell,system%20using%20a%20DC%20transformer.
@reallyMello no I haven't. Thank you, I will do it tomorrow.
So I locked myself out of the house on the coldest morning. Waking my wife and kids is like waking up the dead.
Layed on the door bell until I broke it. Doing the same thing like this video.
Not taking any chances. Getting a new door bell.
Time for a smart deadbolt too so you can prevent lock outs it sounds like 🔐
Good grief. This is brilliant but stupid we have to do this.
This is potentially dangerous. It doesn't say what the voltage might be when the doorbell rings. But if you take 8V (a very conservative estimate, it's usually higher!), the resistor is going to draw 0.8A (which in combination with the chime might exceed the rating of your transformer!). 0.8A * 8V = 6.4W, which might make the resistor go kaboom in a spectacular way! Also, it's going to draw 10.7 kWh per year, you do the financial math. People are going to try this not understanding V=I*R etc. Providing this type of advice is irresponsible.
Thank you for sharing your concern. In my case, I verified the inputs and capacities, but people attempting similar should independently verify since each setup is different and/or consult an electrician to ensure safety. On the cost side, 10.7kWh per year would be about $1.18 annually in my area.
Not a very nice solution. This will use 2.7 kWh per year.
It's more like 10.7 kWh per year: 3.5 volts over 10 ohm will draw 0.35 amps, times 3.5 volts = 1.23W, times 8760 hours per year = 10.7 kWh.
I don't care what it costs as long as it gets rid of the annoying hum 😀
It is actually a bit worse. The total load on the transformer is 16VAC * 0.35A = 5.6W @@bartmulder6995
You're right, I hadn't looked at the transformer's specs, so 49.1 kWh per year. And, more importantly, still a fire hazard.@@senddrews8225
@@senddrews8225 Does the transformer function as a parallel circuit, possibly generating distinct electric currents (different amperes), with its heat production being separate from this additional circuit, i.e., Q = Q1(resistor) + Q2(transformer)?