Yes, I'll be doing the rears after payday! I'm a big believer in either get the best, or get the best for your money. The ProGuards have been fantastic. I'm coming up on 30 days with them, when I intend to replace the rears, and give my thoughts on the ProGuard shocks.
Your video was very helpful in changing the shocks on my 2005 Escalade (AWD with electronic suspension (Z55)). The Escalade has a bracket, tubing and wiring directly above the shock mount on the driver side compared to your video, so it had to be removed coming in from the wheel well. Wedged a piece of wood to hold up the plastic wheel well. I jacked up the frame a little to facilitate the approach and to minimize the difficulty of removing and replacing the lower mount bolt. I used Monroe 40044 shocks from RockAuto, which included instructions for removing the electrical connector and provided torque specs for the upper and lower mounts (15 & 59 ft-lb, respectively). I found it a little tricky to tighten the upper mount - I suggest the use of a ratchet wrench. I used a 15mm crowfoot wrench for torqueing. I measured the distance from the bottom of the nut to the top of threads before removing - bottom line: the nut basically bottoms out on the threads. Recommend changing via wheel well instead of from above - much faster.
Depends on what you do - mostly driving around town, no lift, yes - I would recommend these. Do a lot of offroading (more than 50%) and lifted? No, you'd better off with something like KYB MonoMax!
Are you using a 285/75/r16 mudd tires? Do they fit in your avalanche without lift kit or triming?, I've been thinking to buy a BFG's 285/75/17 for my 2004 z71 do you think they will fit without a lift kit?
Thanks for the video. I have a 2004 Z71 that I was just gettin ready to replace the shocks all around. Was hoping I didn't have to pull the front wheels to do it. The drivers side front shock top bolt looks real rusty on mine. May have to cut it off to get it out. Gonna clean off the rust as best I can and use plenty of PB Blaster and see what happens. This past winter really did my shocks in. Now when I hit big bumps its bouncing a lot.
uberDoward Went with Bilstein 5100's. Felt stiff at first but I think thats because my old shocks were so bad. Install went real well. Your video helped so much. Hardest part was compressing the new shocks to fit on the truck.
I have the Autoride suspension on my Tahoe and got the Arnott Industries Premium fronts with the AS-2700 rears, thing feels brand new now and the fronts are MUCH beefier than the old ones were. www.arnottindustries.com/products/chevrolet-air-suspension/tahoe-1500/4x2-4x4-w-autoride-suspension/2000/sk-3062-eibach-front-shock-00-06-various-gm-suvs-left-or-right www.arnottindustries.com/products/chevrolet-air-suspension/tahoe-1500/4x2-4x4-w-autoride-suspension/2000/as-2700-arnott-premium-rear-air-shock-00-14-various-gm-suvs-left-or-right
Thanks sir. I've been looking for these shocks and Rock Auto has them for less than 10 dollars, problem is, they only had 1 in stock... :( Imay buy the KYB GR2, they are 30 each on Rock auto and Amazon. They should be a tad more durable and still ride well, yes?
I noticed the driver's side is a tad busy with many wires and "stuff" a bit harder to get to, but, still the same principles apply. You also helped me with deciding which shocks to get too. If you have any input on shocks, that would be helpful too. It seems like it's either 25-30 per shock or 80+ per.... are you still happy with the ones you installed? ( I have a 2005 Avalanche as well)
Well done video. I've got a noise coming from the front left and can only assume it's the shock that's worn out. It sounds like pushing a tight spring being compressed over every bump. Any idea if replacing the shock will solve this issue?
+Neil Parker I'd pull the shock off, and see. The nitrogen charge in the shock should keep the shock fully extended - I imagine when you pull your shock out, it's going to just contract, and be squeaky while doing so. Very good chance the shock is the issue - it's a quick check, too, just unbolt the top mount, and see if the shock just falls in on itself! Also, thanks for the kind words :)
if the rubber bushings are not facing the right way, as you said the plastic lip side has to contact the metal....what happens? I had all 4 shocks changed in my avalanche by my mechanic, and immediately after the front left suspension is clunking/rattling over little bumps (just like a worn sway bar end link would do). would completely worn out shocks hide something else that is worn out? Top shock nut too tight? bottom not tight enough? mechanic suggested loosening the top nut a couple turns. Thoughts? thanks!!!
Well, you can look - the Tahoe / Suburban / Avy all have real similar platforms, but I think you being 2WD will prevent you from doing so. Depends on if the 2WD platforms have the shocks in the springs or not!
These shocks are junk. Billsteins are stock on the Z71. I replaced mine upgraded to the Billstein 5100 $70 each and worth every penny. The stocks had 108,000 miles on them and still worked !
Thanks. I noticed in the Chilton manual, it indicated that if you put the front end up on stands and remove the wheels, you have to place a jack under the control arm since the shock is used as a stopper for the assembly. Is that the reason you do not put the truck on jack stands and remove the wheels?
Drivers side not quite as easy to do on my 06 because of wiring, break master cylinder and other stuff in the way. Probably have to take the tire off and do it from underneath
Great video, it's very easy to follow. I should have watched this before I changed the front shocks on my ''05 Tahoe.Does it matter if I put in the rubber mounts wrong?
Ah, in that case I would get back in there when you get a chance and make sure they are correct. You want to make sure the rubber's where the rubber's needed :)
+sd80mac4106 You were probably thinking of Ranchero? Go with whatever you like :) I can say the Gabriel Max Controls have impressed me for how little they cost, and lifetime warranty from AutoZone :)
+uberDoward. yes that one in white and red color. all I care is that I prefer the one last long time... lifetime sounds good but they're usually yearly or short term replacement which I'm avoiding thanks for suggesting. I'll considering it. what size of socket/wrench do I need? I'm deaf so I don't know what u were saying in video. also do u have video for rear shocks? search dudnt come up with one exception for different made and/or model.
+uberDoward thanks. I assume that I still remove the rear wheels to access to shocks. I take it it's not that hard to replace them like the front? what do I do if the top nut is frozen?
If the top nut is frozen, you'll need to hold the shaft with a decent pair of something like vice grips. The rears you may actually be able to do without removing the wheels - I don't recall how they bolted up, sorry!
Looked like a good video bro... But kinda looked like that tire was making it a little difficult for you..... Is this the same setup as it is for a 02 escalade?
I'm restoring a second gen Avalanche in 2023. I love it. First video I see where the wheel isn't removed.This way seems quicker.👍
I'm glad to hear that you found the video useful! That's the biggest enjoyment I get out of these, helping other out :)
Yes, I'll be doing the rears after payday! I'm a big believer in either get the best, or get the best for your money. The ProGuards have been fantastic. I'm coming up on 30 days with them, when I intend to replace the rears, and give my thoughts on the ProGuard shocks.
THANK YOU! This video was exactly what I needed to find. I am now ready to get it done! Thank you very much. +1
Have 2004 Chevy avalanche, the best car, this video was unbelievably helpful thanks man!
No problem! Happy to help :)
Thanks for the video changing mine next weekend on my 02 avalanche
Your video was very helpful in changing the shocks on my 2005 Escalade (AWD with electronic suspension (Z55)). The Escalade has a bracket, tubing and wiring directly above the shock mount on the driver side compared to your video, so it had to be removed coming in from the wheel well. Wedged a piece of wood to hold up the plastic wheel well. I jacked up the frame a little to facilitate the approach and to minimize the difficulty of removing and replacing the lower mount bolt. I used Monroe 40044 shocks from RockAuto, which included instructions for removing the electrical connector and provided torque specs for the upper and lower mounts (15 & 59 ft-lb, respectively). I found it a little tricky to tighten the upper mount - I suggest the use of a ratchet wrench. I used a 15mm crowfoot wrench for torqueing. I measured the distance from the bottom of the nut to the top of threads before removing - bottom line: the nut basically bottoms out on the threads. Recommend changing via wheel well instead of from above - much faster.
Good work! Always happy to help. And think of the money saved, lol
Nice comment , thanks for your advice .
Great in depth video, thanks.
Benjamin Gutierrez Thanks :)
Thanks dude so helpful
Would I be able to change mine the same way on a 02 Silverado 1500 4wd??
Depends on what you do - mostly driving around town, no lift, yes - I would recommend these. Do a lot of offroading (more than 50%) and lifted? No, you'd better off with something like KYB MonoMax!
Are you using a 285/75/r16 mudd tires? Do they fit in your avalanche without lift kit or triming?, I've been thinking to buy a BFG's 285/75/17 for my 2004 z71 do you think they will fit without a lift kit?
Thanks for the video. I have a 2004 Z71 that I was just gettin ready to replace the shocks all around. Was hoping I didn't have to pull the front wheels to do it. The drivers side front shock top bolt looks real rusty on mine. May have to cut it off to get it out. Gonna clean off the rust as best I can and use plenty of PB Blaster and see what happens. This past winter really did my shocks in. Now when I hit big bumps its bouncing a lot.
Happy Trails Definitely time for new shocks. Which ones are you going with?
uberDoward Went with Bilstein 5100's. Felt stiff at first but I think thats because my old shocks were so bad. Install went real well. Your video helped so much. Hardest part was compressing the new shocks to fit on the truck.
I have the Autoride suspension on my Tahoe and got the Arnott Industries Premium fronts with the AS-2700 rears, thing feels brand new now and the fronts are MUCH beefier than the old ones were.
www.arnottindustries.com/products/chevrolet-air-suspension/tahoe-1500/4x2-4x4-w-autoride-suspension/2000/sk-3062-eibach-front-shock-00-06-various-gm-suvs-left-or-right
www.arnottindustries.com/products/chevrolet-air-suspension/tahoe-1500/4x2-4x4-w-autoride-suspension/2000/as-2700-arnott-premium-rear-air-shock-00-14-various-gm-suvs-left-or-right
What was the top and bottom bolt torque specs? Thanks
Nice and easy! Thanks.
Happy to help!
So great to know it's not necessary to pull the front wheels.
Thanks sir. I've been looking for these shocks and Rock Auto has them for less than 10 dollars, problem is, they only had 1 in stock... :( Imay buy the KYB GR2, they are 30 each on Rock auto and Amazon. They should be a tad more durable and still ride well, yes?
I feel so stupid because I changed my it was other problems no grease on the joints ball I put it and everything is great now
I noticed the driver's side is a tad busy with many wires and "stuff" a bit harder to get to, but, still the same principles apply. You also helped me with deciding which shocks to get too. If you have any input on shocks, that would be helpful too. It seems like it's either 25-30 per shock or 80+ per.... are you still happy with the ones you installed? ( I have a 2005 Avalanche as well)
Would be nice if you could have shared a small detail such as the torque spec with everyone.
Well done video. I've got a noise coming from the front left and can only assume it's the shock that's worn out. It sounds like pushing a tight spring being compressed over every bump. Any idea if replacing the shock will solve this issue?
+Neil Parker I'd pull the shock off, and see. The nitrogen charge in the shock should keep the shock fully extended - I imagine when you pull your shock out, it's going to just contract, and be squeaky while doing so. Very good chance the shock is the issue - it's a quick check, too, just unbolt the top mount, and see if the shock just falls in on itself! Also, thanks for the kind words :)
if the rubber bushings are not facing the right way, as you said the plastic lip side has to contact the metal....what happens? I had all 4 shocks changed in my avalanche by my mechanic, and immediately after the front left suspension is clunking/rattling over little bumps (just like a worn sway bar end link would do). would completely worn out shocks hide something else that is worn out? Top shock nut too tight? bottom not tight enough? mechanic suggested loosening the top nut a couple turns. Thoughts? thanks!!!
I have a 02 LS Tahoe 2wd do I need to remove the front tries or can I do it like you did ??
Well, you can look - the Tahoe / Suburban / Avy all have real similar platforms, but I think you being 2WD will prevent you from doing so. Depends on if the 2WD platforms have the shocks in the springs or not!
Would changing my air ride shocks and converting to conventional shocks work on a 2003 Escalade ? Reason being is my from Air Ride shocks are toast .
Probably, I've done it with cars.
You didnt have to jack the truck up or anything?
Would you recommend using the same shocks for a Z71? Or are there others you would use for that particular setup?
These shocks are junk. Billsteins are stock on the Z71. I replaced mine upgraded to the Billstein 5100 $70 each and worth every penny. The stocks had 108,000 miles on them and still worked !
Thanks. I noticed in the Chilton manual, it indicated that if you put the front end up on stands and remove the wheels, you have to place a jack under the control arm since the shock is used as a stopper for the assembly. Is that the reason you do not put the truck on jack stands and remove the wheels?
dukerochester Sure is. There's enough room under the truck to handle all of this WITHOUT unloading the control arm!
uberDoward Thanks for the quick response!
No problem!
Drivers side not quite as easy to do on my 06 because of wiring, break master cylinder and other stuff in the way. Probably have to take the tire off and do it from underneath
Great video, it's very easy to follow. I should have watched this before I changed the front shocks on my ''05 Tahoe.Does it matter if I put in the rubber mounts wrong?
Edmund Mendez Thanks, glad it helped :) I would recommend installing them correctly, lol What do you mean by 'wrong'?
uberDoward You said in the video the lip of the rubber mounts should face the metal. I think I did it facing the washers.
Ah, in that case I would get back in there when you get a chance and make sure they are correct. You want to make sure the rubber's where the rubber's needed :)
Sure, easy enough. One more thing, how tight do you tighten the upper nut?
German torque - Guttentight :) I want to say it was ~30 ft-lbs
Thanks man...!
No problem, glad it helped!
The other side is not exactly the same and it's the side I need help with :(
thanks
Raymond Wherry My pleasure - just trying to help!
you chevy makes more confortable with this upgrade?
TheRicoMalibu The ride is MUCH better with new shocks!
thanks brother
No problem - hopefully it was helpful for you!
which brand of shock should I get? I was told years ago to get Ranger something brand? I cant remember. I have 04 z71 4x4.
+sd80mac4106 You were probably thinking of Ranchero? Go with whatever you like :) I can say the Gabriel Max Controls have impressed me for how little they cost, and lifetime warranty from AutoZone :)
+uberDoward. yes that one in white and red color.
all I care is that I prefer the one last long time... lifetime sounds good but they're usually yearly or short term replacement which I'm avoiding
thanks for suggesting. I'll considering it.
what size of socket/wrench do I need? I'm deaf so I don't know what u were saying in video. also do u have video for rear shocks? search dudnt come up with one exception for different made and/or model.
No video for the rears, sorry - Need a 21mm wrench for the bottom bolt, top is a 15mm!
+uberDoward thanks. I assume that I still remove the rear wheels to access to shocks. I take it it's not that hard to replace them like the front?
what do I do if the top nut is frozen?
If the top nut is frozen, you'll need to hold the shaft with a decent pair of something like vice grips. The rears you may actually be able to do without removing the wheels - I don't recall how they bolted up, sorry!
Is this the same on a 2005 Silverado 1500 4wd 5.3? Thanks!
Should be basically the same!
Thank you!
Could use some bigger cutters. Good video.
Looked like a good video bro... But kinda looked like that tire was making it a little difficult for you..... Is this the same setup as it is for a 02 escalade?
No real difficulty, just tight space lol. Yes, should be the same setup!
Thanks for the response!!
Should be!
285/75/16 Nitto Terra Grapplers, no trimming!
hated grapplers on my z71. slipped 2 belts within 30k miles and the other 2 were trash by 50k miles
I no my Shocks Are Fucked Roller Coaster Front End Every Turn🤣🤣🤣
"Unloosen"
Just saw that and id be damned i go to write it and there was my word. Lmfao i was beginning to question my sanity because i didnt think i wrote it.
FYI measure shock body and compare to new shocks at purchase, or before installing. Could save yourself alot of work for nothing.