I'm late to the show. Factory 6.0 Ford filter for oil is a 20 Micron filter with 95% filtration rate. The idea behind a bypass filter is to use a filter that can filter out large soot particles the factory filter can't remove. To do this it's suggested to use a 1-3 micron absolute filtration filter. The Baldwin B-164 used in this video is a 15 Micron absolute filtration filter. While it's filtering the oil better than the factory filter, it's not good enough to remove the soot. As shown in this video a lot of flow is happening through the additional filter which can rob the engine of oil flow at Idle and high RPM. A bypass filter doesn't need large flow to work so it's a smart idea to install a flow restriction fitting somewhere in the bypass loop. Other than changing the filter and putting in a restriction and the metal braided lines being too close to the positive connection of the battery it looks like a well done Job.
Clever idea. I also did a DIY bypass oil filtration for my 05 6.0, basing it off a link which I am not sure exists anymore. Anyway, I like your idea of placing it in front of the radiator to help cool the oil. Mine is just above the CAC tube by the alternator (same baldwin filter but rubber hydraulic hoses). The cooling gains you shared relative to no bypass was interesting. I am also noticing that the oil cools faster when not running hard (to around 180s). The temps can approach 200s but it seems harder to get there now with a DIY. I think it also helps that you have longer lines running further to and from your filter, allowing more heat to dissipate before the ultrafiltered oil runs back in the engine. This should help preventing your coolant from getting too hot also.
You have to put a .030 reduction fitting in line somewhere in that loop or you'll take to much low oil pressure away from the engine and could potentially starve the bearings.
I cannot believe i did the exact same thing at the exact same time as you with the same caps. The only thing, i have a billet cleanable 30 micron filter first, in the front. And also i have a 30 row cooler.
Good set up! However when the rubber hose inside the braided line become fatigued and your more than 100 miles away from home. It will blow like a bomb went off in your truck and it wil shoot 15 quarts of oil out all over your motor faster than you can spell Mississippi! Then your screwed and the motor shuts down. Then you will need to by pass this route, add ball shut off to make the problem easier to solve. Been there!!! BEST PLAN, buy the kit with everything needed! Larger hoses , remote location , etc. (Spend the money, you will be glad you did!)
The problem is your filter it's only a 23 micron. You need a filter that filters down to two microns. Otherwise you will not remove the soot from the oil.
Great video has it been. Reliable I've got a similar set up but I'm trying to bypass the stock oil cooler completely and I'm using an oil cooler in line with a bypass filter as well as a check valve I found an oil cap with a fitting and I'm going to use a manual adjustable oil regulator valve that I can close the system off with if it causes issues or leaks I would love to know how the reliability of your truck was effected long term currently fighting high oil temps
get a oil cooler delete plate and a Air to oil cooler. no more oil cooler issues. also means you can run whatever coolant you feel like in the truck green purple blue pink. whatever floats your boat hell all of em if you want. given you don't have a EGR on the truck if you still have a EGR be mindful of it. and run good coolant.
Only at start up, but that was due to a bad weak starter. After start up oil pressure was in range. Starter turns HPOP at first to generate the pressure. After additional external filter install there was no low side pressure change either. VIP the external filter has a small port, or you will have low, low side pressure and starve the reservoir. Use Same filter I used, that has a tiny intake port. Anything over 500 psi truck will run so it’s hard to define low, ranges vary greatly. Hope this helps.
Please fix your headlights. They are so yellow they look like foglamps.... Wet sand them with no less than 1000grit for 30 seconds. Buff with a rubbing compound....
Here’s the Amazon link, but you probably can find just the cap on same brand. Exact oem size so it’ll fit oem filter. iFJF Oil/Fuel filter Cap and Oil... www.amazon.com/dp/B08NFMSRJ5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I did. It still functional, it’s an addition. BUT later I did replace the HPOP and oil cooler at the same time, and my deltas are now about 2 degrees. It’s a job that anyone can do with a lot of patience and a couch cushion to place under your belly.
@@3forkshooligan84 Just about any oil cooler in the market is the update one. After I replaced with a regular cooler my deltas are about 2-5 degrees. The original system is perfectly fine. If you’re not going to be racing the crap out of your truck, you will be more than fine with the original system. If you do a back flush alone will bring your deltas closer to perfect anyway. I’ll be doing a video soon on how I DIY the back flush and tool and show you my old cooler including deltas.
That's a glass filled nylon oil fill tube. It can accept threads and is thick enough where he tapped in to be safe under low pressure and vibration situations. Pressure is not an issue here because the oil is emptying into atmosphere after the fitting. It's safe. Use of JB-Weld was overkill and looks a bit odd but is perfectly fine for what he is doing. Some Teflon tape would have been sufficient.
I'm late to the show.
Factory 6.0 Ford filter for oil is a 20 Micron filter with 95% filtration rate.
The idea behind a bypass filter is to use a filter that can filter out large soot particles the factory filter can't remove. To do this it's suggested to use a 1-3 micron absolute filtration filter.
The Baldwin B-164 used in this video is a 15 Micron absolute filtration filter. While it's filtering the oil better than the factory filter, it's not good enough to remove the soot.
As shown in this video a lot of flow is happening through the additional filter which can rob the engine of oil flow at Idle and high RPM. A bypass filter doesn't need large flow to work so it's a smart idea to install a flow restriction fitting somewhere in the bypass loop.
Other than changing the filter and putting in a restriction and the metal braided lines being too close to the positive connection of the battery it looks like a well done Job.
Clever idea. I also did a DIY bypass oil filtration for my 05 6.0, basing it off a link which I am not sure exists anymore. Anyway, I like your idea of placing it in front of the radiator to help cool the oil. Mine is just above the CAC tube by the alternator (same baldwin filter but rubber hydraulic hoses). The cooling gains you shared relative to no bypass was interesting. I am also noticing that the oil cools faster when not running hard (to around 180s). The temps can approach 200s but it seems harder to get there now with a DIY. I think it also helps that you have longer lines running further to and from your filter, allowing more heat to dissipate before the ultrafiltered oil runs back in the engine. This should help preventing your coolant from getting too hot also.
You have to put a .030 reduction fitting in line somewhere in that loop or you'll take to much low oil pressure away from the engine and could potentially starve the bearings.
I cannot believe i did the exact same thing at the exact same time as you with the same caps. The only thing, i have a billet cleanable 30 micron filter first, in the front. And also i have a 30 row cooler.
Thats freakin smart bro. If you add an external cooler you can cool your oil
Good set up! However when the rubber hose inside the braided line become fatigued and your more than 100 miles away from home. It will blow like a bomb went off in your truck and it wil shoot 15 quarts of oil out all over your motor faster than you can spell Mississippi! Then your screwed and the motor shuts down. Then you will need to by pass this route, add ball shut off to make the problem easier to solve. Been there!!! BEST PLAN, buy the kit with everything needed! Larger hoses , remote location , etc. (Spend the money, you will be glad you did!)
The problem is your filter it's only a 23 micron. You need a filter that filters down to two microns. Otherwise you will not remove the soot from the oil.
Put a Donaldson dbl7405 on there
Also fits the standard remote mount 7.3 powerstroke filter base
Great video has it been. Reliable I've got a similar set up but I'm trying to bypass the stock oil cooler completely and I'm using an oil cooler in line with a bypass filter as well as a check valve I found an oil cap with a fitting and I'm going to use a manual adjustable oil regulator valve that I can close the system off with if it causes issues or leaks I would love to know how the reliability of your truck was effected long term currently fighting high oil temps
get a oil cooler delete plate and a Air to oil cooler. no more oil cooler issues. also means you can run whatever coolant you feel like in the truck green purple blue pink. whatever floats your boat hell all of em if you want. given you don't have a EGR on the truck if you still have a EGR be mindful of it. and run good coolant.
Where did you get the plate?
I hear that air to oil isn't as efficient as coolant to oil
Was there any low oil presures before changing HPOP and Oil Cooler
Only at start up, but that was due to a bad weak starter. After start up oil pressure was in range. Starter turns HPOP at first to generate the pressure. After additional external filter install there was no low side pressure change either. VIP the external filter has a small port, or you will have low, low side pressure and starve the reservoir. Use Same filter I used, that has a tiny intake port. Anything over 500 psi truck will run so it’s hard to define low, ranges vary greatly. Hope this helps.
Did you remove the factory filter from the housing or keep it in place?
Please fix your headlights. They are so yellow they look like foglamps.... Wet sand them with no less than 1000grit for 30 seconds. Buff with a rubbing compound....
Can you put a link to all products you used
May I ask what brand oil filter cap you have?
Here’s the Amazon link, but you probably can find just the cap on same brand. Exact oem size so it’ll fit oem filter.
iFJF Oil/Fuel filter Cap and Oil... www.amazon.com/dp/B08NFMSRJ5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Did you leave your old oil cooler in the housing?
I did. It still functional, it’s an addition. BUT later I did replace the HPOP and oil cooler at the same time, and my deltas are now about 2 degrees. It’s a job that anyone can do with a lot of patience and a couch cushion to place under your belly.
@@dieselcowboy9186 preshate you answering me Mr, fixing to do a cooler on mine looking at my options for an external cooler
@@3forkshooligan84 Just about any oil cooler in the market is the update one. After I replaced with a regular cooler my deltas are about 2-5 degrees. The original system is perfectly fine. If you’re not going to be racing the crap out of your truck, you will be more than fine with the original system. If you do a back flush alone will bring your deltas closer to perfect anyway. I’ll be doing a video soon on how I DIY the back flush and tool and show you my old cooler including deltas.
You lost me at *jb weld
But i like your thought process..
Subscribed.
By any chance, does anybody have a parts list?
yeah it starts with don't do this stupid shit like him.
tapping into the oil filler your asking for trouble.
That's a glass filled nylon oil fill tube. It can accept threads and is thick enough where he tapped in to be safe under low pressure and vibration situations. Pressure is not an issue here because the oil is emptying into atmosphere after the fitting. It's safe.
Use of JB-Weld was overkill and looks a bit odd but is perfectly fine for what he is doing. Some Teflon tape would have been sufficient.
It almost impossible to understand you. You never complete a sentence. The firewall explanation was unintelligible