Fix Your Creality Ender 3 Bed Level
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- čas přidán 15. 06. 2024
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Chuck shows you an issue with the Creality Ender 3 bed that prevents you from getting a perfect bed leveling. He shows you the issue and then how to fix it in this week's Filament Friday.
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Very good idea Chuck and well explained!👌😎 I also noticed a similar problem on multiple printers and ended up doing something similar with a Nylock nut
Thank you!!! My 1st ender leveled perfectly, my 2nd one just came and man I had every levelling problem in the books and your tricks helped me fix it!! THANK YOU!
I used your bed leveling g-code when I bought an ender 3 pro a few weeks ago. Your website and channel are such a great resource. Thanks.
Chuck.. I used the Nylock bolts with the new springs. Between that and the "hot end fix", that solved a lot of issues! Well done!
I just added washers (metal; I think I'll just print some PETG washers) and m4 nuts to the bed leveling screws on my Ender 3 Pro. I was going to print some bed leveling locks, but I just upgraded to an SKR mini e3 v2 and a BLTouch, so I don't think I need the level locks anymore. Adding the nuts to the bed level screws made a huge difference before adding the BLTouch, I recommend everyone do that immediately. After the BLTouch, I'm not worried about losing bed level and don't manually re-level until a nozzle change. I've been printing non-stop for two days, no problems.
Printing a PETG washer. Brilliant! Although I wonder if it will have issues in the long run with the heat
@@Guapogiboy Probably. 80°C is the hottest my bed would ever get, but I'm not sure that would be enough to soften the PETG to the point of warp/squish. 80°C would definitely make it pliable, though, and maybe cause it to stick to the bottom of the bed. Structurally, the washers should be fine under full surface and even compression. Maybe. I guess I could find out. 😝
I've done the same thing on my Ender 3 Pro, but I've used a nyloc nut and some kapton tape as protection. Works like a charm
I have to say Chep's bed level code and bed level print are an absolute god-send!
Snipping that bit off the Z stop was necessary for me on my 3 Pro: the front left corner of the bed literally couldn’t be adjusted enough for the bed to touch the nozzle. I loosened it as far as I could and before the bed and nozzle touched, the cog fell off the thread! I guess the stock spring was just too short! But snipping that piece allowed me to get the nozzle down the extra few millimeters required for a level bed. Fantastic tip, thanks 👍
I use the yellow springs + nylock nuts, and also adjusted the Z stop height so the springs are compressed a lot. This has helped and I no longer have the bed losing level every other print.
This g code saved me from throwing my new printer out the window. Did the paper method 50 times and the print would not adhere. Just dragged it all over. Then I ran this method and 5 minutes later I had a well stuck perfect line. Then my prints were perfect! Thank you!!
Another useful adhesive for this application, Blue Tack! Little bead around the screw head should keep er from slipping. I just got the dreaded slip the other day!
Great video Chuck! I ran into this problem from my first Ender 5 and actually used knurled nuts however, just as you pointed out, over time it shorted out the heater on the bed. Fortunately it didn't kill it so I went with one thin nylon flat washer along with 2 stainless flat washers to prevent the washers from spinning. Have done the same thing on the other 3 printers and it works like a charm! Especially good for beds that have the magnetic sheet with adhesive and the screws are covered over😉! Do this trick whether you're using springs or the silicone springs(or whatever they're called lol). Love the tip on cutting that little stop tab on the z-stop switch! Thanks for another great informative video Chuck!
I use the same trick for ages. I also experienced the same problem. I used first metal washers I made a short cut, but fortunately damaged nothing. I then purchased PTFE washers.
My goal was to make the link between the bed and the carriage more rigid. If you block the carriage and push the bed you will see that the bed is moving, not much but it is visible, and the bed does not go back to the exact same position when released. This has little effect at low speed but the faster you print the more efforts are needed to accelerate the bed what introduces these displacements and generates artifacts in the prints.
Before tightening the bolts, I maintain the bed in place supported by pieces of wood, as high as possible but with the screws inserted in their holes (no spring, no knob). This ensures that the screws are parallel, and that the bed can move freely vertically. I tight quite hard.
Thanks for your videos.
Those yellow springs are the way to go, just ordered them, thank you! I’m sure they should improve bed levelling...
Interesting as always 👍
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍😊
I've added locknuts upside down to safe the conductive lines, works great and I don't get problems with softening washers due to an heated bed. Adding a washer between nut and spring prevents the spring from shifting and/or slippin over the Nut
I used some thread-lock on the underside of the screw heads. It forms a very strong bond, but can still be removed with a little force.
Great tip! I’ll have to note that in the Marlin troubleshooting guide since it is sure to be a very common problem.
While troubleshooting the same issue, this Chuck's video popped right up. Godsend! :D
One important comment tho...instead of using nylon washer, what's more appropriate is fiber washer which is heat and vibration resistant. And instead of springs solid bed mounts which act as stabilizer and more vibration resistant.
holy heck. this has fixed my issues :D i used the yellow springs but it doesn't work quite as well. the nut thing works perfect. i didn't want to pull the magnet thing off mine to do it. so i used two nuts to jam nut on the end then tightened up with the third.
Bless your soul, it took my pea brain too long to realize i could move the knobs underneath to level it, my left half of the bed was higher than the right resulting in printin errors thank you so much!
Hi, I did this fix in two other brands of printers a few weeks ago, but the interesting was that I learned it from the Geeetech A10 (latest 2020 version), where nuts are included already in the stock bed so that bolts dont turn. The Geeetech brand is taking a lot of learning from the Enders around there and applying it to their latest products from stock. Interesting huh :)
But great video and yes, this is a MUST almost to any printer, with the care of having proper sealing to prevent a short in the bed.
The similar for my Ender 3 Pro, but used teflon tape (to keep it slim) and nyloc nuts. To install without peeling off the magnetic bed was a bit of a hassle using pliers and to get started and two regular nuts to torque down. Next part is replacing the wheels with wheels that take nyloc nuts as well.
I'm experiencing the identical issue on my Ender3 v2, I constantly have to level the bed and sometimes bed wont even stay level just after leveling and print starts. I will be trying this out this weekend. Thank you.
I would suggest using a nylon lock nut to keep the nut from backing out. Thanks for the video!
Your awesome Chep love your videos I bet this will work because I have had the same springs that the printer came with 2 years ago and notice that they have loss their spring this could be due to that I switch to a glass bed keep up the great work.
Wow... That's really interesting, Chuck!!!
Thanks a lot for the tip! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I got a kick out of how you introduced the ad: "If you're watching all this, and if you don't want to fool with a 3D printer any more...." I don't think most of your audience (including me) will ever get tired of fooling with 3D printers. That being said, I found your simple mod very interesting, because I did something very similar to the bed of my Ender 5 Pro. In my case, I had a feeling that the knobs were not staying put, so I decided to design and print some leveling knobs that had a nylon-insert nut in them. Of course, when I tried to put these on the bed screws, the screws just spun around. I did just what you did (minus the plastic washer, which I should probably go back an add..), except I used some larger diameter springs that went over the nuts. (I also had to cut openings in the magnetic pad at the head of each screw so that I could access the screw heads with a screwdriver.) This mod has worked well for me, because the bed adjusting knobs seem to be staying in place now. Thank you for this video.
Man, I sooo need this. It was fine for months, then it all turned to crud. Cheers Chuck!
i printed washers with a nut spacer and spring cup for the bed, and spring cup for the sliding cart, and use the stiffer springs
mounting on 3 points instead of 4 makes it alot easer to level, have not had to level it again after in 3+ months
Thanks Chuck. Great video!!
Supergluing the heads of the screws to the build plate works just fine. Mine have been superglued for over a year now and they are still holding just fine. To remove the screws if you ever need to do so only requires a bit of heat from a small torch or barbecue lighter.
Thank you for another great solution ❣️
Exactly what happened to me. I made a few good prints, but I would occasionally lose level. When I moved my 3D printer to a different table, I was no longer able to tram the bed. I found the problem - loose screws (just as you indicated).
Thanks for making this and those files from the last video. It's saving me heart and head aches. I've also noticed that my stock ender 3 v2s springs loosen over the print time, is it because of a crappy spring? Either way, I'm getting those yellow springs from now on
Chuck, had this problem myself and can't understand why creality don't use a regular hex bolt in a recess as the countersunk set screws are a problem waiting to happen. Also very disappointed with the bed out of the box, it has quite a dish on it. Your video echoes the idea I've had however I intended using nyloc nuts. Loving the videos always informative, brief, and easy to follow, the perfect format, great job!
P. S. Tried the yellow stronger springs, this didn't solve the problem!
"why creality don't use a regular hex bolt in a recess"
I'm thinking it's a penny-saver move. One less manufacturing step. Much easier to countersink a round hole than form a hex-shaped recess.
Personally I would rather pay an extra quarter (or whatever) for my printer and eat the expense... because this problem seems like a doozy that could be avoided, just as you suggested.
Before I try this I'm going to use some medium Locktite thread locker. It's not a strong as superglue and it is meant to be able to be disassembled later. As for metal on metal, it works with metal threads and screws, so probably will work with these screw heads. Also it's meant for engines so it shouldn't be bothered by heated beds.
Going to check this on my 5 plus 👍🏻
A (mainly) 3D printing YT channel advertises a 3D printing service for people with 3D printers. *insert the Palpatine IRONIC meme
Worth recommended!
In my case the hot end cables were snagged and pulling the print head up on the corners it made me think the bed was severely worped lol.
Cables management is important.
I tighten all 4 knobs then i use a dial indicator and only loosen where necessary. It's rock solid any never once had to level the bed. Try it chep it basically a no rocking bed.
I haven't been able to use my printer for literally months and I literally just had to take the bed apart and it fixed my tissues I wish I saw this days ago
2:59 In my case I had to put it higher. Thanks for all the info btw :D
Chep I love you videos manI wish I could afford a cr10 my ender 3 is nice just a bigger printer would be great
Hello there
I recently gotten an ender 5 pro printer.
I'll be watching your tutorials .
Have a pleasant day.
Do you have videos on resin printers as well I didn't look yet in the video section for the channel.
Do you have any plans to look at dual Z axis or dual Z stepper motor upgrades?
I think it will be interesting to see if theres any improvements to print quality
I had to cut that knob off the z-stop straight from the factory. It really annoyed me. But I still like my ender 3.
thank you for this
such an awesome design on the e3 pro how there's a mat affixed with stick on adhesive over these screws.
Just got my first 3D printer , "Ender 3 V2 Upgrade", Just finished putting it together and manually levelling the bed to be close. I have watched several of your videos, Great stuff. I have a couple question . 1)What is the correct position for the Z stop switch, you mention it here but didn't say what is the setting. I.E have the printer set to the home position and the move the switch up until you hear it click the switch or ?. 2) How do you know what main board is in the printer so you get the correct software. I know its 32 bit, 3) I think you mention to use CHEP_M25_bed_level.gcode on the 32 bit boards? then I print CHEP_bed_level_print.gcode with filament as shown in your other video. Thanks in advance for any assistance you can offer.
Nice video thank u
What about when the bed is not leveled even with BL touch and only one side no matter what?
Great video and solution BTW Love your videos! :)
Thanks for this. It validates my rotating bolt issue. I did likewise with the nut tighten BUT I found the real issue to be the bolts jamming in the bed support holes. This explains why you level the bed BUT when you go to print the vibration appears to alter the bed height after a few prints. My bed jammed in the holes once the nuts were tightened and had to drill out the bed support holes by about 0.5mm extra diameter. I'm also using wheel locks now.
Its 1:57am but nothing matters than a chep video.
@The Green Man usa?
@The Green Man oh man right. Im not good at this 12h system. I thought 12:02pm
Be careful if using superglue with a higher temperature bed. It starts unzipping (the polymer chain) at about 140C.
Great video
My Tronxy Xy-2 pro came with those M4 lock nuts from the factory
Good information. I put on nylock nuts as described by Brian Vines BV3D channel and my bed holds its level much better.
If you ever need to do this again, try 'blue thread locker'. Its used for holding nuts and bolts together on cars, works great. Do not use the red thread locker though as you wont be able to undo that.
Beds will invariably need to be releveled at some point. Using Thread Locker will be something you will regret, even if you only use blue. Better money spent on upgraded springs (the Yellow ones...Amazon).
What? You didn't 3D print washers for this?
Instead of Springs use silicon puffer. the best option so far i found.
The screws still turn inside a Silicon buffer. Locking them off is the best solution.
I went straight to the yellow springs, a few months ago. Immediately solved any levelling issues
Same here - they're longer, but if you squish them it makes the whole bed very stable between prints - now I'm leveling it almost only when I change the filament type (I'm looking at you PETG...), nozzle, or bed surface - works like a charm
@@KonradSarnowski I’ve actually printed 4kg without touching the bed level. New record.
There is also Locktite Blue. if needed It will hold a screw in place, but you can break it free if needed
Loctite has different bottles with "blue colored liquid", the number on the bottle is important to know if you have the right one ...
Chuck, I need help with Ender 3 V2 please. I use manual mesh bed levelling with the Jyers/Marlin firmware. I initially use manual levelling to set the springs as best as I can. I then engage the manual mesh bed levelling, but the printer has a Z offset of 0.20 when using the mesh bed levelling. I have to lower Z till about -0.03 for it to just grab the paper, but at 0.00, the Z carriage clicks the Z stopper. I don't understand why the Mesh bed levelling is so far off after I've done manual bed levelling. I measure the same point, once using manual levelling, second time, using the mesh bed levelling. They both sample the same point, but both provide different results...
could you do a video on installing more quite fans in an ender 3v2?
Print the wheel to accept a nyloc nut - u will never have to adjust your bed again - I found the stock adjuster wheels move and float around a bit ( the stiffer springs would help the stock adjuster wheels from moving ) but I just run stock springs and nyloc and havent adjusted my bed in over a year .
I did this as well, about a year ago. Hasn't moved since.
I've changed to the yellow springs after my bed repeatedly raised itself mid print and I haven't had the problem since.
Thanks.
Thanx
I am new to 3d Printing. Love your channel. where can I get the concentric squares pattern that you used in the video. Can you recommend one film ant maker over another. what do you use? Thanks in advance,
Check description for bed level video. It’s part of that video.
I use Filament Friday Filament which unfortunately is no longer available to the public. Matterhackers has some good filament. Affiliate Link in description as well
There goes those close-cutters 👍
I installed my printer last June and started to see similar problems. Unfortunately, this video only came out today, and other videos that also demonstrated it I hadn't found. So instead, I was "that guy" who over-modded his printer WAAAAAY too early. After two weeks, in a panic and taking too much advice, I spent the next two weeks installing the BLTouch, trying to learn how to flash the firmware to do even that, bought a glass build plate, and reworked the gantry...twice. June was HELL.
In the end, I found that three of the four screws all rotated on my bed and I also ended up with a bad USB port (which was the cause of all my woes trying to update the firmware). I got nylock nuts and an SKR Mini board...and things worked out well. Still, overtime, my bed is BADLY warped and I'm still struggling with it from time to time, but seven months later, I'm starting to get prints that are behaving.
I've broken parts of my printer (overtightening wheels, stressing wires, etc.), found places it was just manufactured incorrectly, but one thing is for sure: I KNOW my printer now. I'm far less inclined to "OMG! I need to order a new expensive part!" than I was six months ago.
But no...I'm not giving up on this thing. Not by a long shot.
Same thing here, purchased the printer with the mindset of "oh! I'm sure this $220 printer will be just enough out of the box" and 1 week later I was installing a bl touch and upgraded springs and extruder and modifying the hot end... Always something with these machines I swear lol
@@gopro2027 I'm in the same position, I absolutely love upgrades but usually I wait enough to fully understand the stock product. Now I am terrified that if I change the hotend or whatever I will eventually mess up all the experience on the stock one that I have lol
@@davidefogagnolo to do the upgrades I still had to understand how to level the bed and stuff, and taking apart the machine to put on the upgrades helps me understand it more in that sense. I don't think you will mess up any experience you have.
I have a few questions and your videos have really helped me throughout the past year. How can I get in contact with you?
Do you accept questions with print issues/problems? Thank you in advance. Tom
I already did this to mine the within the first week cause I had the screw heads pushing my build plate up in the corners
get this man 1M subscribers
I like the way you think. :)
Thanks In Advance...!!!
Does this apply also to Ender models with auto leveling or the auto leveling should fix everything?
I am so happy I belled your channel! I am checking my top right screw as we speak, it's difficult to label that corner and I hope that's it!
Where's your Patron link? It's time I give back a little.
Link is in description. Thanks.
Done!
Im getting front right issues where it just doesn't stick and cuts upwards towards the back, resulting in a square with an unevenly rounded front right corner.
Locktite Bearing Retaining compound undr the screw head will fix that without all the hardware, and will allow the screw to be removed later. A medium strength threadlocking compound might work just as well.
How will it handle 80°c bed?
@@FilamentFriday Engine parts commonly reach higher temps. Blue loctite is your friend.
My experience with building racing engines showed its great for bolts under torque but a looser fitting like these screws doesn’t allow it to harden as well and the higher temp adds to the issues. So I still like my simple solution.
@@FilamentFriday Race engines? Then you should know about the higher temp versions that have been out for years.
I know about them but the method I showed works for most of my audience.
www.elproducts.com/stock-car-racing.html
Hey Chep, any chance of one of your videos covering the cura fork made by safety_lucas? I love the feature of controllable overhang fan speed and overhang wall speed (features declined by ultimaker). Thanks!
I’ve seen others with similar claims. Haven’t tried them.
hello Chuck, thanks for sharing so much info about 3d printer. in my workplace working with ultimaker with cura. (PLA) printing with 10 degree slop in part is causing issues in print.on bottom surface it makes steps of layer. tried with PVA filament. please help me or make a video on printing very low angle part. 50mm base 50 mm slop angle around 10 to 15. thanks.🙏
Use supports.
@@FilamentFriday thanks for responding. i have tried PVA for support. but no good results , and sorry it was 80 degree overhang. 😅.
is there anyway you can do a vids regarding to how your ender 3 max is doing? cura issues? i got one for the holidays as a gift. its my first printer and i am kinda lost with it. i had the issue with the Z endstop and moved it down and got it level did some test prints but nothing is really doing well after that.
I have a new one to review but my original prints great.
Ooooo OMG. That is why i can't get good level ? Thank you !!!
I have the anycubic Kobra neo on the back left my print first layer seems abit thicker on one side?
what causes the corner where nothing is printing? the blank corner, this happened to mine but on the whole bed, and i think the tip burned a hole in the mesh of the bed bc it was too high.
Lol, a guy with multiple 3D printers goes to the store to buy a nylon washer.
Seriously though love your videos Chep they are very informative and educational.
Haha...I wanted high temp and none of my printers can handle nylon. Guess I need another one ;)
There is your next video: setting up an Ender 3 V2 to print nylon! I am about to do that with mine, but would love to see you do it first.
@@michaellindborg1510 I would like to see a video on that as well.
I saw your video on the Ender 3 glass bed. The video said that there were printing artifacts using the glass bed, that were not seen using the stock bed. what if anything can be done about these? the video said you were going to look into further.
Lower jerk settings gets rid of a lot of them.
i have a ender 3 pro, and i have checked what you showed and thats not the issue. i have upgraded springs but after every print i have to relevel and it progressively gets worse on leveling... at this point i just want to give up on it lol
Check your Z axis bar. Mine had a bit of play. Had to retighten all the rollers. Helped with leveling (I am using an Ender 3 Pro with a Microswiss Direct Drive Mod).
does anyone know the exact pitch of the bed leveling adjustment screws? In other words, if you adjusted the screw such that the bed just EXACTLY touched the nozzle, exactly how many degree would i need to back the screw off to get exactly .20 mm space between the bed and the nozzle?
LITERALLY WAS IN THE MIDDLE OF LEVELING MY ENDER 3, THANK YOU!!!!!!
Was yours doing this?
@@emmettturner9452 literally the exact thing
Hey, just starting out with an ender 3 v2, i see you have some white marks/scratches on the glass bed, is that normal or should the bed be lowered if that occurs? (mine looks kind of like the white line residue left behind the leveling square pattern on the upper-right corner at 0:35)
Possibly lowered. Depends on the cause. Some scratches come from removing prints.
Any tips with lithophanes?
The stock Ender 3 pro Bed seems to have some kind of layer on it that's glued to it and preventing me from seeing the screw tops, Is there another way to test for this issue? We've tried everything to Get the CR Touch ABL to work and I'm trying to rule out any and all possible other hardware interference mentioned and not mentioned across the internet before I end up investing in replacement parts That make no difference in the end.
Same with mine
How do we deal with the bed heater bracket it makes theat spot need a different spring.........or it should?
Same way.
Have you ever experienced ‘center bed dip’? I have a ender3 and it seems to have a center dip on the aluminium plate because of the centered heating element... I have a Creality3D glass bed with little rubber compound knobbies that release when cold and it also seems to have a little dip in the center. Extruder nozzle not as snug on the paper compared to corners... I try and shim it with a but of aluminium paper between heat bed and glass but not 100% flat, any ideas?
You can get a new aluminum/glass bed or you can take it apart and try to flatten with a hammer.
How about those silicon tubes instead of springs? Anyone use those?
In my case, those screws do not move but I still have the same problem. BTW I'm using the black silicone spacers.
Push the bed down while you move your screws i had the same problem
Did you fix it? I’m having the same problem, but it’s weird because I can level the bed, but when I print everything on my left side gets squished