Metal Magic: How To Back Rivet
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- čas přidán 9. 09. 2021
- Master aircraft builder Paul Dye demonstrates how to "back rivet" metal for a clean, consistent look, and offers suggestions to avoid common mistakes.
This series is sponsored by Aircraft Spruce & Specialty - www.aircraftspruce.com Visit the KITPLANES website for more tips: www.kitplanes.com/metal-magic...
#homebuiltaircraft #kitplanes #experimentalaircraft #eaa #tools #metalworking - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Very useful...curse you. Now I need another tool :-) a back rivet set tool.
Would've liked to see the end result.
Hi sir..Can you pls upload a video on how to read the structural repair manual?..Thank you sir
Where do u get the tool
I think you can use rubber grommet to prevent that swing when doing back riveting..
The plans in my kit tell me to rivet the rod-end of my elevator pushrod. The rod is 1/2" alum tube, with a 3/8" doubler inside and with a 1/4" headless bolt inside of that (where the rod-end bearing screws on) Solid alum rivets are shown; 3/32" x 3/4". I can't find anyone on the web who has riveted a tube like this. Could you please demonstrate this? Thank you.
Which kit and are you sure the instructions are not calling for blind rivets?
@@KitplanesMagazine It is a Fisher Koala FP202. They are calling for solid aluminum rivets: 3/32" x 3/4" to go through near the rod end. There is a short length of 3/8" tube inside the 1/2" with the headless bolt in the 'core' so it is not hollow there so pop-rivets won't work. Thanks for the fast reply by the way.
@@sheldonrigsby3523 So a hole is to be drilled all the way through the 1/2" tube along with the doubler and the bolt? Can you email a photo of that assembly to editorial@kitplanes.com?
@@KitplanesMagazine Yes, exactly. You have it pictured correctly. And then the battering rivets are put through the long holes. I will email a picture as soon as I can. Thanks again.
Key takeaway: Don't ever have to drill out rivets :)
What I would need is an explanation on why everything works the way it does. For example in regular riveting, the back side spreads out and the front domed side remains the same. But we have an equal force being applied to both sides from the rivet gun. Ok the domed side of the rivet has the domed part over so it has a larger surface area. But the back side of the rivet flattens out so it's surface area becomes almost as large as the front domed side.
Anyway that is the way my mind works. Why does the rivet flatten on one side and not the other.
The factory head (domed part of the rivet) is driven with a rivet set which has a concave tip. The shop head is formed with a flat bucking bar. Watch this video for the explanation: czcams.com/video/BAMZhawoSOE/video.html
@@KitplanesMagazine That was not the question. Why the domed heads not become flat heads from the impact against the flat hard surface, was the question, I think. A good question at that.
@@tonylawrence9157 The domed head is not being driven by a flat surface. The rivet set is similarly domed, so while the shop head does conform to the rivet set very slightly, it maintains the same basic shape. If you drove a dome-head rivet with a flat rivet set, it would indeed mushroom out.
How did it come to be that 1/8" rivets don't fit into a 1/8" hole? Noooo....you gotta have #30 drill bits.
Why not weld the plane instead of rivets?
Very thin metal. And the surface area of the weld would be very small. The rivet surface area spans the 2 sheets in the center of where they join. . The weld would be just at the very edge.
Its easier to remove/replace rivets. In actuality, sealants are used between the contact points of the work pieces as well as around the rivets for moisture control.
In addition, to install/remove welded skins or structure, could possibly involve heating things up to where the metal integrity will be compromised which might lead to catastrophic structural damage/failures down the road.
Also, if the aircraft is one that is pressurized, at altitude, the aircraft must be designed to slightly expand and contract due to the differences in air pressures inside and outside of the fuselage. Welding the skins/structure drastically restricts these contractions and expansions to where cracking can be established with the end result being the obvious structural failures.
Of course, you should follow the recommended manufacturer's structural repair manuals/FAA ADs/etc., wherever possible....unless you're building something other than an aircraft.