Toilet Flange Repair | Broken Rusted Closet Flange Replacement Kits | How To
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- čas přidán 3. 06. 2019
- Various Repair Kits - amzn.to/2Wcu2S9 (Amazon Link)
Fixing and replacing my rusted toilet flange using various repair kits, then finally going with a DIY hack job that worked best - Věda a technologie
It's CZcams, whaddya ya want? He shared his experience and you got an idea now. He told you he didn't have the tools or the time and he still made it work. Thanks for sharing.
Haha, someone that gets CZcams, thanks!!!!
Oh believe me the PVC will break! That's what brought me to your video.
Great video. Great job breaking it all down for people who are not plumbers. Thank you. 😀
A satisfaction of doing the job yourself and finding solutions to whatever problems come.
I just had this exact issue today. Thank you for the video, yours is the only one i found that dealt with exactly what I was looking at. 👍
Thank you. Lots of other videos telling me to destroy the existing flange…which while it would work was highly dangerous as I don’t want to destroy the pipe either.
Yes that was my problem, too risky to remove the existing flange entirely
Honestly I work at Home Depot and I needed this explanation on all the flanges thank you.
Very good and helpful video. I just did some of this. Same kind of situation. I agree, pursue all the options. You can take back what you don't need. I ended up doing a similar split ring scenario too but I used the Oatey Moss Bay split flange from Lowe's Home Improvement. It is engineered to fit in around the plastic part of the existing pipe piece that is not easily removed. Once in place use a hammer drill with a 3/16" masonry bit and then screw down with 1/4" X 1 3/4" concrete appropriate screws if in a slab or appropriate and similar screws for wood. Take time to study all the options as was done here. If your slab or wood surface is seriously damaged it maybe a much more serious fix best left to a professional. I had this presented to me rather quickly and this video gave me a great headstart. I can't thank you enough for posting it. You have done a great service!
One cut is okay but if you do cuts then just use the 2 piece flange it’s much sturdier and it has the screws that connect them together . But the choice are great ideas to show us the choices . I just removed my rusty old flange and the concrete beneath was slushy so I bought some tube concrete and filled the gap and tomorrow I’m installing the 2 piece flange . Thanks for the video !
There is alot of information here to take in, we'll done. You give us ideas of what to do and not to do, thank you.
Great job man 👌👍👍
Thank for Sharing
Same problem now I know what to do great job
Thank you almighty one. I just tried this and it worked. Thank you for your video. Happy Halloween!!!
Thank You
I won't be doing this one! But appreciate the info.😵
Thank god for this video . I need to fix my mothers toilet for the past 4 months lol.
Here right now because the Pvc flange just like you're showing here cracked while I was tightening a toilet 😂
My flange completed rusted away too. I used the flange repair ring because the pipe is offset, and an insert won't work. The ends overlap and once the screws are in place, it doesn't budge and works like a charm. I'm now putting in a new toilet so I've decided to replace it, not because I need to, but as long as I'm upgrading, I might as well do it right.
I'm going through this right now. The seating ring cheat is what I needed assurance with. This is essentially the route I want to take with out ruining the existing plumbing height or width. I have alreadycleared out as best as I could the area around the closet flare now I just have to find a proper flange seating ring which I can modify slightly without compromising the existing assembly. The only concern after this is just the seating position of the toilet... Thanks for the reassurance vid.
I actually have to fix one tomorrow.
This must be a video of how not to replace a toilet flange.
Must be a renter!
No, it's a confidence builder. If this lasted and didn't leak, it's all good.
@@berkeleyharbin1787 Yep, let's just say, what I did was 100x better than what the professional plumber did when putting this condo building up.
@@PoolarityChannel Any job in Fixing that No Leak., It's A SUCCESSFUL Fixed and Great job and Save Money...👍👍😅
Yeah. I would never fix it this way even if I was about to flip the house and run off.
Plus, do a bit of cleanup before filming and reinstalling. And you didn’t even mention a wax ring or gasket. What a hack job
The best part is when he says he'll never do it again, then denies he did it.
I work in the schools. He did good enough for government work. If it functions and will last a while good on him 😂
Excellent video! One of the most articulately explaned videos i've seen!
Thanks for the compliments!
This helped quite a bit. 👍🏼
I use a metal washer and nut round side down to tighten the water closet toilet bolts to the flange so they don't spin later especially if the toilet needs removed again. Plus on top of the toilet porcalin a metal washer on each side top and bottom of the plastic washer for the plastic caps(making the plastic cap washer in the middle of the metal washers, then the nut round side facing up on top. Then trim the bolts if needed to the height of a little above the final nuts to hold the toilet to the floor and install the two plastic caps.
Completely agree
thank you very much for this video
Those plastic flanges DO break. I've had to replace one.
I do maintenance in schools. Those flanges bust ALL THE TIME
The plastic ones do break . . . That is exactly why I am watching toilet repair videos on a Saturday morning.
Probably already mentioned on this older video, but the silver metal is stainless steel - a superior upgrade of what was originally installed - epoxy coated steel.
In reality “I don’t have time” to cut the flange. AKA: so I’m actually going do a hack job. Just say it..
hack job for sure
Just get a whole saw bro easy
@@crazyhandshands9028 I don't know if he owns a drill. Hahaha
First, clean up the mess before even thinking about continuing unless you’re an animal 😁. Second, although it was in fact informative, this video definitely had some incorrect info.
Might I suggest using an extra set of toilet nuts and a washer to secure the bolts to the flange. This will save you a ton of grief. Duct (he called it masking tape) tape won’t keep the bolts from turning when you are trying to put the top toilet bolts. Also, use a good quality screws to mount the new flange, not the old rusty ones or you’ll need up right back where you started. Even the cheap zinc ones are better.
For this kind of job...... Stainless steel or galvanized screws Should be used Only...
@@Honestandtruth I have no idea what they are made of. I just use what comes with them. I’ve never had problems with the actual nuts. It’s mostly the flange that rusts out. I’m not saying you’re wrong at all.
@@dontbetoomad2684 That's Okay friend...... Sharing is Helping.
So many people are having problems with the Flanges...
..... 2-Holes on the PVC flange are NOT Strong enough to Hold the Toilet and The Roughness of the people........
...... Personally...... I think the Plumbing Codes and the Designs MUST be Changed just Added 2-Holes by the toilet Bowl itself and bolt it to the Floor.. That should be Strong enough to withstand the Roughness of the people...
You can buy a plate that goes between the floor and the toilet to give you the proper height.
Ese oyó sanitario se ve muy insalubre
I have exactly the same situation, my flange also sticks up and rusted out ring. which wax ring size did you use. The thinnest one?
I used the thickest, but I bought a few because I didn't want 5 trips back and forth to Walmart or Home Depot. I figured the wax compresses anyway, so I will attempt the thicker one first. Which has about 20% more wax than the thinner one.
To high a flange means, use the thinnest wax possible and probably some toilet shims too. Do it the right way...
100% good
I’m having the same issue with the flange great idea on cutting it. But my other problem is I only have enough concrete foundation to put one screw in. I’m gonna use a tap con and maybe I can put a couple other ones in at an angle?
One screw is definitely not enough.
I used the split flange option and put two tap cons in the concrete. It’s not bugging at all
What type seal did you use? Thank you
“No way these plastic flanges will break”
I’m here because my plastic flange is broken.
Buy 2 packs of closet bolts so you can properly secure them to the flange. Also don’t have to worry about them spinning if you ever have to pull the toilet again.
There's only 2 holes on the ceramic toilet. Where are the other extra 2 bolts attaching to the toilet?
Poolarity - Life Hacks The second pack is used for the washers and 7/16 nuts not the bolts.
@@cloud9418 right and the nice wax rig kits come with 2. Who tf would use duct tape and straws? Ill tell yaaa... kids in a science project, not plumbers.
@@codycozart1023 straws are a good idea. They act as a guide when lowering toilet. Then before you tighten the bolts you pull them off
He actually has the right 2 piece repair flange in his hand but then proceeds to go make a flimsy one🤣
That one was too thick, every millimeter counts for me since the flange was raised higher than normal.
The two piece has too large of a hole for some 1980's painted ring flanges.
all these videos showing rusted flanges, should we coat them in something?
Just curious why u didn’t use the split flange kit u had in package already
I think it’s cuz it didn’t line up with the holes from the other flange 🤷🏽♂️
@@boridebrooklyn8300 That's right. That was 1 fo the reasons, the 2nd was that it was the thinner 1, because my toilet was raised higher, 3rdly it was the cheapest, and I thought it would offer equal duration. Plus I was sure that would fit, since it was nearly like the original.
ciana baltimore Omg u have the sexiest eyes 🥰😘
Bro. I think you just saved me from jumping off my roof. Thank you.
When you go to loosen the nuts holding the toilet down them way you set it the toilet bolts will keep spinning!. Plus the flat piece that's part of toilet flange bolts might pop through slot on the flange!
The flat part of the toilet flange bolts were more than 1/2" away from the open slot on the metal ring. The back of the toilet tank has less than 1/4" give from the wall, and rest basically against the wall. It is unlikely the toilet will shift more than 1/2" in any direction for it to slip out. This setup, while it looks like a hack is actually more secure than the previously installation which lasted 12 yrs.
Does stainless steel flanges work better?
In America we have plastic clips/washer to hold the screw straight in position ..
My toilet bottom was leaking so here I am. After taking off toilet see that the flange that’s supposed to nailed / screwed down is all rusted through. It’s wooden floor and some is level ( the back ) while the front wood isn’t. It’s gone rotted though maybe a quarter inch down . Can I still use as is and just get it with longest nails / screws I can find ?
If the wood subfloor is rotted through by 1/4", then how much of a stable subfloor is left. If you have a remaining 1/2" stable non-rotted subfloor, then you can just use as is. However if there is crumbling rotted subfloor and nothing to fasten to, then the Toilet will not be stable.
Talks about the professional doing a half ass job....then proceeds to do an even worse half ass job. 👍
You put that toilet right over that mess didn't ya. Never swept at all.
That mess isn't that bad, just rust dust. I cleaned it with Paper napkins and a few Clorox Wipes, and it looked as clean as a baby's bottom.
Trust me they break! I’ve replaced two PVC flanges
I had to replace one too.
As do the steel ones lol. More of a pick your poison type of thing.
Question for you: Is the white substance going down the back of the drain wax or what is that?
I think that's like dried up toilet paper, like the lint that builds up over 12 yrs of use
It is actually calcium buildup from urine. Very normal.
@squirrel1179 Calcium in the water will dry in a piece of toilet paper that gets stuck on the pipe. Once that happens more will stick to the old rough paper. Over time you can have an inch or two build up and its hard as a rock. My toilet would flush slow, sometimes just swirl around. Pulled the toilet and found 2" or more of hardened paper right at the flange
How did you remove the old one?? I'm in the same situation.
One side was completely gone and disintegrated, the other side I unscrewed with a screw driver. Make sure you get a flange that is not too thick (ie too tall for the toilet to sit on top of)
didn't you use a wax ring?
Oh but those PVC flanges break all the time. It takes a while but they do break.
Get to the fix
The PVC flange will crack over time.
You have to put metal washer on top of plastic cap base........ he failed to put metal washer under wingnuts
Don't tape, washer and low profile nut tighten justa tad so you can move a bit so to position toilet done
Isn’t there a wax ring that goes in there somewhere?! Also, that spotless white grout is no more
When you replace the old metal flange , spray with rust guard. But before attempting any toilet repair, always wear proper PEP mask eyewear and gloves...
that's a solid A1 steak sauce tip, Rust Guard
PPE
Or don't wear PPE. We're adults; we're responsible for our own safety. It's our choice.
And get yourself a whole saw that will fit inside the old flange much easy.
I could have used a multi-tool. The problem is, when u live in an apartment building, you don't know how that tube is fastened. You don't want it dropping below the subfloor even slightly or to misalign after you cut it... you don't want to end up tearing up the entire floor to fix that problem. Its not worth the risk.
Not even mario and luigi would do this 😂
I'm fixing what Mario and Luigi did!!!
Thank you Jesus for this video,I was searching on CZcams for a video and God directed me to the right one,I didn't have to call a plumber or anything,this man saved me money and time,all I had to get was some screws from homedepot,I could give this man a big Ole hug,thanks for this nice video
I didn't know this guy's name was Jesus.
Seriously. With that analogy of god intervening in daily life, how do you explain cancer. Logical fallacy.
My plastic one broke
That is a shocking amount of rust for 10-years. It normally takes 20+. Anyway, plastic flanges are weak. They crack, warp, flex, etc. I use metal and paint them with Rustolium to last longer!
👍💥👍💥👍
Tape , did you seriously use tape to hold the hardware in place???
He calls it masking tape, but it's actually duct tape!
The guys obviously a noob!
Tape just holds it in place until the toilet is secured.
silicone will lock it in place
The purpose of the metal piece is to secure plastic flange which I did not remove to the floor, then to secure the toilet to the metal ring. The wax ring and the funnel inside the wax ring is what seals the hole on the porcelain toilet to the plastic flange. You do not ever want to put silicone to seal anything on a toilet. If the wax ring, flange and toilet are not aligned then it will leak eventually. While this looks like a hack, the focus was on the stability of those 3 things, to secure it better than the previous 12 yrs.
you always use silicone around the edge of the toilet to lock it in place. been doing this for like 17 years now and if you do it do it right
@@matthewwade1974 You can go around any high end luxury condo building and you will never see silicone around the bottom of a toilet. If there is a leak, you want it to leak out where you can see there is a water leak before it damages your subfloor over time.
Did you put down a new rubber ring?
Wax Ring? Definitely, I put down the extra thick wax ring.
@@PoolarityChannel Thanks. I'll be setting mine tomorrow.
Of coarse he did the cheapest one!
Just cut the out the old flange
Omg I've spent all morning cutting mine out lol. It's a pain
Replace broken plastic ones just like that everyday lol
I. will never use these flanges ever again. So let me hack this because it doesn't fit the flange that I will never ever use again.
So it dont fit closet flange now what
Did you put in a new wax ring!?
Yes, always use a new wax ring
if it won't break then why do they sell the repair kits????
For the older stuff? Well, if it breaks it won't be because of rust, it would be because of improper use???
ciana baltimore did you not watch the video??????????????? He said in the video there is no need to believe the pvc ones will break . Which got the comment . Why do they sell repair kits . Great job ........🙄🙄🙄
ciana baltimore 🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄
Unfortunately, the PVC flanges do crack all the time
Is that flange made of stainless steel?
That's what it says, stainless steel.
They break
Do you feel that the ready made split flange kit is just a waste of money ...and that is why you decided to just cut the flange yourself? You dod not see any difference between the two? Thanks
The ready made was thicker, and my flange was already raised above normal, so for me every millimeter counts. Effectively no difference, 1 was $5 and the other was $25, not that that should be the determining factor, it wasn't. Overall it was roughly equivalent, so I went with the one I opened first, and return the others.
@@PoolarityChannel Thanks for that reply ....do you recall what the thickness of the two were? I have a similar problem to solve
I think the pre-made one was 0.15 mm thicker...you still need to make sure the Wax envelope the spaces, so I got the bigger wax ring for that reason. More to smush, but maybe the regular is fine too. But both, try the regular wax ring first after you've put the stainless on. I'm sure what I did will last 10+ yrs
Where's the wax ring?
toilet will leak! pilot drill!!! concrete screws!!!
the reason the other flange was damaged is because it got screwed down same and flange is slightly to high but to high and bad screws = pulls flange up when u tighten toilet over time earth moves pipe moves forward and back which pushes flange up and down screws get loose when screws get loose toilet not as secure and causes separation from wax ring and then ull have your rusted steel ring again which is def rusted and wiggle at time of my post 3 years from the install
Why not just do it right and cut old pvc flange off with a pvc saw that attaches to a drill and glue that pvc flange on the stub?
I didn't have those vibrating cutters to do it. plus I did not want to risk the PVC sliding under the subfloor where I could not reach it, both vertical and horizontal after cutting it, because its possible that it was not fastened properly. I'm in a condo building, and if that happened, it would not be pleasant. If that was a house that would be a different matter.
@@PoolarityChannel vibrating cutters🤦♂️
I don't know wtf you are on, or if you are new, but those pvc flanges break all the fucking time.
You are Micky mouse himself. Talking about poorly done. You take the cake.
How long do you think that will last before you have to pull the toilet again?
Minimum of 10 years, probably 20+, better than what was there before
I broke my plastic flange today and now I need to replace it. I’m going to have to call a plumber to get it out most likely smh
They do break..
My plastic one is broken right now lol
He says the original guy did a bad job? No water proofing around flange. Flange and bolts are very loose and doesn’t show the wax gasket install.
Those silver replacement flanges look like stainless steel, which does not rust or crack.
Daniel Antonio stainless steel rusts
@@LoneWolfRanging Depending on the grade on stainless. Those steel ones shown are galvanized and will rust over time.
Do not listen to any any of this. He had the correct repair flange (otay moss bay) but decided to destroy another repair flange. This is a DIY hack job. Oh man, too much to criticize and not enough time. Leave it to the pros.
This will last another 20 years. You know how bad some self proclaimed Pros are? Why do you think this didn't even last 10 yrs?
In my situation the pre-split ring would have been too thick, every millimeter mattered in my scenario, because of the raised flange with was already abnormally high, put in by the previous plumber. So I had to find an alternative.
FYI, I was quoted ~$500+ to replace an iron flange. If you think it makes more sense to pay someone $500 to replace a flange, rather than spending $20 on a 'hack,' I don't know what to tell you. You have more money burning a hole in your pocket than I do, that's for sure.
Never seen you replace the wax seal...
I used the extra wax one, just a standard install, nothing out of the ordinary
PVC flanges do break. They're plastic and not indestructible. Flange problems have been keeping plumbers in business since Roaman times. My plumber makes more than my Doctor 💊🤣 . 1st Thoroughly clean your work area so you can properly assess the problem and have an even surface to seat the new flange. Your flange may have failed from improper installation. You may need to level the floor around the flange with concrete. Your wax or rubber seal kit should have included nylon posts clips to secure your posts to the flange channels instead of duct tape . Your flange should be even and level. The new metal collar can actually bend or recess if it's too thin or not properly supported by the subfloor which can lead to failure and water damage. In some cases it's just best to get a pro or expierenced friend to help with this. That way the root of the problem is solved. Insurance damage claims can also be denied if a repair wasn't made by a licenced pro or not done to code.😢
They break.
si no brass flanch 🤷
No brass anywhere
B.S mines broke
That so called PVC breaks all the time, so much in fact I never go out to a floor leaking toilet without taking a flange repair ring with me. EVER
Vanilla organic yogurt
That stupid plastic one broke on my toilet today
How hard is this with the foundation is concrete? Lol
My plastic flange broke