Red wire to the solder joint on the 2 diodes on the left - blue on the right, yellow middle and red on the left. 3 phase from the generator to the diode pack that then provides the DC output- some melted wires in there so need to be careful
Yep ... I was deducing the same. I can only hope that the diodes are still operational. They could be replaced by modern high-power diodes but the voltage could rise significantly due to the lower internal resistance of the modern diodes. The rest of the circuit is probably more or less resembling to the DC voltage-regulator circuit in an old car using a dynamo.
For sure each phase winding goes to a diode pair. Yellow and blue are soldered to a bridge each. Red is loose, solder on end, and the "left" bridge is sitting with no phase connected, blob of solder mid bridge. Im fairly certain they wouldnt build it with an idle bridge, and an idle winding, lol. That red wire and the unoccupied bridge want to play together
As Phil Macket said ---Red wire on left to Diode Pairing . Should be a nice little engine, looking forward to seeing itrunning. Nice coverage of Strupshaw by the way. 👍👍
Aye, you had me screaming at me computer, mate. The red wire goes to the only diode pair that didn't have a wire soldered to them. I couldn't see how you could follow blue and yellow to their diodes and not see the pair of diodes that had no wire. The reason for the melted insulation on the red wire was from shorting out. Of course the missing nut told you someone had been mucking about with it. Looks like a sweet gen set when you finish. Another good video, Mancave.
As others have said, used by the Royal Observer Corp to charge the NiFe batteries used underground at ROC monitoring posts. Probably made C. 1959 - 1970.
the red wire goes to the junction of the left two diodes that has a solder joint in the middle. That appears to be a three phase generator that is then rectified to produce the DC output.
Hi Adam, What a cracking little gen set! I like your camper van. It is more lorry in layout than a van and I like that. The coverage of the show is smashing and its good to see the machines. The plug looks like ones used to charge army radios in the 1960's. I have had a look and cant find any that are exactly the same but its a waterproof cap. I am not sure if the generator is military as there are decals and some orange JAP paint underneath. I hope you sort the wiring out. It looks brilliant inside the cover, even the paper label is still on the volt meter. All the best
That's a sweet little genny all looks to be In good nick, i belive the red wire solders on to the 2 pin looking things next to the yellow wire because there are 6 of them with a little wire going across the blue and yello ones are soldered to them but there is one that has nothing on it 👍
As the others have said, the red wire to the un connected (left hand in the video) diode pair. Could you not hear me shouting at the computer? LOL. I would also slip some heatshrink over the crushed alternator field wires to prevent unfused short circuits or earthing of live wires which could damage the windings As for the crankcase paint, I feel that if you are 'restoring' the set you should stay reasonably close to the original presentation, not to be a slave to perfect originality but also not to introduce 'bling' to a purely functional piece of kit. The paint may have come off because of oil exuding through the porous aluminium castings. You need to consider an oil tolerant paint like Paragon enamel paint from Stationary Engines. I wouldn't touch the panel wiring except to check connections etc, things could snap off and be very difficult to fix.
Two weeks late to tell you where the red wire goes, but it has been answered in the comments already. It is a standard 3 phase bridge. The things you wondered about being interference suppressors are the diodes. 3 on each heatsink.
@@NorfolkMancave well done, annoyingly I live in Norfolk myself so could have answered immediately. I did have a WW2 two stroke DC generator which I stupidly gave away. A very compact orange coloured thing, would have been good for the likes of camping holidays when you flatten the car battery, living here by the Broads I did get fed up with taking the battery out of my car to start family and friend's boats!
As I can see, this is a 3phase alternator with diodes. A bit like in a modern car. This has probably been used to charge batteries. So you'll have to search for the different diodes and then you'd be able to solder the wire again on the correct place. Seems to me that the diodes are "paired" ... and one (on the left) has no wire going to it. Check, before soldering, if the diodes are still OK. The wire is NOT soldered to the body, imho.
those 6 things are power diodes pnp/npn used to change ac alternating current to dc direct current, looks like the spinning bit is a magnet? that red wire looks like it was soldered to the casing, odd as the is a cable holding bolt next to it, as u have 6 diodes it may well have a 3 phase ac current going into the 6 diodes. maybe a power output of 12v 24v or even higher as much as 100v, so when you get it running be careful when testing, don't see any capacitors so going to be a rough DC current coming out.
Red wire to the solder joint on the 2 diodes on the left - blue on the right, yellow middle and red on the left. 3 phase from the generator to the diode pack that then provides the DC output- some melted wires in there so need to be careful
Yep ... I was deducing the same.
I can only hope that the diodes are still operational.
They could be replaced by modern high-power diodes but the voltage could rise significantly due to the lower internal resistance of the modern diodes.
The rest of the circuit is probably more or less resembling to the DC voltage-regulator circuit in an old car using a dynamo.
For sure each phase winding goes to a diode pair. Yellow and blue are soldered to a bridge each. Red is loose, solder on end, and the "left" bridge is sitting with no phase connected, blob of solder mid bridge. Im fairly certain they wouldnt build it with an idle bridge, and an idle winding, lol. That red wire and the unoccupied bridge want to play together
As Phil Macket said ---Red wire on left to Diode Pairing . Should be a nice little engine, looking forward to seeing itrunning. Nice coverage of Strupshaw by the way. 👍👍
Aye, you had me screaming at me computer, mate. The red wire goes to the only diode pair that didn't have a wire soldered to them. I couldn't see how you could follow blue and yellow to their diodes and not see the pair of diodes that had no wire. The reason for the melted insulation on the red wire was from shorting out. Of course the missing nut told you someone had been mucking about with it. Looks like a sweet gen set when you finish. Another good video, Mancave.
As others have said, used by the Royal Observer Corp to charge the NiFe batteries used underground at ROC monitoring posts. Probably made C. 1959 - 1970.
the red wire goes to the junction of the left two diodes that has a solder joint in the middle.
That appears to be a three phase generator that is then rectified to produce the DC output.
Looking at the red wire, it looks like the soldered end had a groove in it, suggesting it had falled off a solid wire like one of the diodes.
Hi Adam, What a cracking little gen set! I like your camper van. It is more lorry in layout than a van and I like that. The coverage of the show is smashing and its good to see the machines. The plug looks like ones used to charge army radios in the 1960's. I have had a look and cant find any that are exactly the same but its a waterproof cap. I am not sure if the generator is military as there are decals and some orange JAP paint underneath. I hope you sort the wiring out. It looks brilliant inside the cover, even the paper label is still on the volt meter. All the best
That's a sweet little genny all looks to be In good nick, i belive the red wire solders on to the 2 pin looking things next to the yellow wire because there are 6 of them with a little wire going across the blue and yello ones are soldered to them but there is one that has nothing on it 👍
A bit late but I believe that's a 'Niphan' socket.
Red-yellow-blue on the plate
As the others have said, the red wire to the un connected (left hand in the video) diode pair. Could you not hear me shouting at the computer? LOL. I would also slip some heatshrink over the crushed alternator field wires to prevent unfused short circuits or earthing of live wires which could damage the windings
As for the crankcase paint, I feel that if you are 'restoring' the set you should stay reasonably close to the original presentation, not to be a slave to perfect originality but also not to introduce 'bling' to a purely functional piece of kit. The paint may have come off because of oil exuding through the porous aluminium castings. You need to consider an oil tolerant paint like Paragon enamel paint from Stationary Engines. I wouldn't touch the panel wiring except to check connections etc, things could snap off and be very difficult to fix.
Two weeks late to tell you where the red wire goes, but it has been answered in the comments already. It is a standard 3 phase bridge. The things you wondered about being interference suppressors are the diodes. 3 on each heatsink.
All sorted now. But thanks very much.
@@NorfolkMancave well done, annoyingly I live in Norfolk myself so could have answered immediately. I did have a WW2 two stroke DC generator which I stupidly gave away. A very compact orange coloured thing, would have been good for the likes of camping holidays when you flatten the car battery, living here by the Broads I did get fed up with taking the battery out of my car to start family and friend's boats!
Looks like it goes to the post on the left like others said definitely not earth. Use heat shrink tubing on the damaged wires 😎
i believe these sets were used at ROC posts to charge the batteries
As I can see, this is a 3phase alternator with diodes. A bit like in a modern car.
This has probably been used to charge batteries.
So you'll have to search for the different diodes and then you'd be able to solder the wire again on the correct place.
Seems to me that the diodes are "paired" ... and one (on the left) has no wire going to it.
Check, before soldering, if the diodes are still OK.
The wire is NOT soldered to the body, imho.
Just like mine and it was light green
I don't normally shout at the screen -- But
got diodes must output a DC voltage, maybe it was a battery charger 12v/24v maybe.
yes
those 6 things are power diodes pnp/npn used to change ac alternating current to dc direct current, looks like the spinning bit is a magnet? that red wire looks like it was soldered to the casing, odd as the is a cable holding bolt next to it, as u have 6 diodes it may well have a 3 phase ac current going into the 6 diodes. maybe a power output of 12v 24v or even higher as much as 100v, so when you get it running be careful when testing, don't see any capacitors so going to be a rough DC current coming out.
ooooo arghhhhhh
3 phrase
Just a friendly suggestion why don't you film from the side as all we see is your head or your back
yes ... or just on the opposite side. But then the workbench has to be taken off the wall