Are Boosted Brakes Better on a Mini?
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- čas přidán 7. 09. 2020
- This video covers the different types of factory brake master cylinders available for the classic mini, from single line to boosted (aka servo). They each have different qualities and designs that translate into advantages and disadvantages for braking performance and safety.
TL:DR we prefer non-boosted brakes for the better brake feel they provide.
Disclaimer: If you intend to work on your brake system, you are taking full responsibility for your own safety and the safety of other drivers on the road! Be sure that you are comfortable with the task of working on your brakes before beginning any work.
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Do a video of converting from one to the other
Fantastic to see Tech Tip Tuesday back 😀 Good job guys 👍🏻
Although I am a proud mini owner I’m still learning a lot on the mechanics. Thanks for the help. Can you consider doing a video about rear safety belts on older versions that had no belts behind (I have a 75’ 1000). Thanks and keep up. Oh, by the way, hello from Portugal!
Thanks Tiago!
I have a dual circuit “tandem” cylinder in my Midget, same type used on a canadian/early BL JDM mini, feels great, its a safe system and not many wear points as well as no booster! Best one that i’d recommend
Great job guys!!! Your videos were the reason for buy my mini 😍
Thank you!!
Recently changed my system from a green tag master cylinder/servo system to a yellow tag master cylinder. The brakes definitely give more feedback to the driver, but you do have to push harder. I much prefer the non boosted brakes. Bear in mind that the later servo (boosted) systems use a different pedal box with a different sized hole for the clevis pin, so the pedal box has to be changed too if you’re thinking of doing this conversion yourself.
Thank you for the video, always very interesting and clear !
Always good stuff👍, How about the different bleeding procedures for each of the systems?
Hey Mr Philip. Nice video on the break system, wish you would have zoomes in on the linkage you talk about on the booster system. Anyways, still a informative video. Please if you ever get the time, please make a video on mini year model finding. How to find the exact year model of the mini's. See you in the next one. Peace out✌🇿🇦
I run a non boosted setup! Very easy maintenance and great pedal feel too
Love your video I have a green tag type in my 1992 SPI Mini
Have 10.25” vented drilled 2-piece rotors with Wilwood 4-piston calipers on my project. No booster. Will see how they feel, anticipate a lighter pedal than un-boosted drums
Always liked my final set up with yellow tag master, pwa valve, 7.9" vented discs and modified cast iron 4 pot ap metro turbo caliper which just scrape under my 6j 10 gb alloys and green stuff pads. The configuration been on the car over 24 years old now and the best in my view
That sounds like a fantastic setup 👌
I run a classic Mini race car, in general racing not mini specific and find myself on the track with modern cars like Hondas and Toyotas etc, Ive just this year fitted a VH44 booster and have found it a huge improvement. it doesn't make brakes better but by heck, it certainly takes away those brown trouser moments when, as happened on Sunday, the 350Z that dived under me into the corner, overestimated his skill and promptly slowed to what felt like a crawl mid-corner with me right on his back bumper. Having the instant pedal was a great relief, not having to mash the pedal into the floor ! I'm also braking much later ;-) As I said doesn't make the brakes better but it certainly ups the confidence factor
Very informative as always .
Thanks
Cheers!
I believe the VW Golf/Rabbit/Jetta's from the 1980's had a ride height sensing rear brake proportioning valve system that had a lever arm on rear suspension to compensate the braking force as the rear end lightened/lifted up under heavier braking. Would be interesting to adapt one of those to the mini.
I watched your VTEC build and see that you ditched the servo (booster) and fitted yellow tag. My '87 came with yellow tag and I replaced with same again, the pedal feel is pretty solid - like you say the mini doesn't really need braking assistance
As always.. good info.
One thing to note is that newer brake components tend to use metric fittings. I have a 79 Canadian Mini which was upgraded to a yellow tag master cylinder. The master takes metric fittings while the car is imperial so you have to use special lines to go from one to the other. Same can be seen on the front hubs and steering tie rod ends where newer ones are metric.
We've noticed this too!
Innocenti Cooper 1300 Export has dual-circuit mastercylinder separated front/rear with servo-assistance (booster..) that works on the frontbrakes only.
Rear brakes dont need any help.
Racers with very light mini's usually fit
Hey Phil, love the videos. I’ve watched so many in the last few days and now I’m obsessed with getting a mini. How do I start? I can’t seem to find any old ones online. Can a customer come to you and start from scratch or do we need to bring a car to you to get the upgrades ?
Hi Dennis, generally it's easier if you find a car first. Feel free to email us at mail@stevestonmotorco.com with build inquiries
When I was into VW GTi's back in the '80's, it was all the rage to swap factory brake discs to bigger ones and bigger calipers, all in an effort to increase brake performance. On Minis, it seems popular to downsize discs to accommodate smaller wheels, more for fashion than performance. Can you comment on performance changes with the smaller wheels & brakes vs larger?
The mini suspension was designed around the 10" wheels with higher profile tyres (and therefore additional compliance) so the ride with 12 or 13" wheels can be harsher so generally the smaller wheels give better handling. As mentioned in the video the mini is such a light car that the loss of braking performance from going to the smaller disc set ups isn't much of an issue and in a lot of cases is offset by the improved handling and lower rational mass (from smaller wheels and brakes). Also in most cases when going from a 8.4" to 7.5/7.9" the slight loss of braking performance from the smaller disc can be more than overcome with uprated pads.
Is there a way to change the orientation of a green tag master cylinder and eliminate the excess linkages?
My favorite type of brakes ... those that work!
The best!
I have b16a2 with all speed subframe and dual brake system 8.4” in front disc and drum on back, I plan to change the rear to disc by kad kit 7.4” do you think will help stop better? And also my radiator is leaking what you should recommend me to buy what type of radiator?
Do you think you could create a video about the sensors that Mini has used to trigger the brake lights? I have a 1962 with the hydraulic sensor and it is not sensitive enough (have to slam on the brakes to get a light - have bought a few different sensors). One of them also split on me and I lost my brakes driving home. I would like to use a different system to trigger the lights. I love the brake feel on my car.
Might not be enough info to justify a video. You could unplug the hydraulic switch and install the more conventional pedal switch.
Well this was cool, I have a 1974. Did you say the booster systems are 1990 and on?, because I do have it on mine, curious now. Last couple of days I've noticed the brake "sticking" at times, twice to be exact and have not quite come up with a possible explanation, any thoughts??
Also, I have not seen you or anyone replacing the wiper motor.., hint hint.. hahaha
Great video!, thanks...
Here's a few videos on the Wiper Motor: czcams.com/video/A39yY6Pc7xk/video.html czcams.com/video/tEEfCKdpsgU/video.html
Either retro-fitted or a 'reshell' job, some hoses collapse internally so don't allow fluid back quickly or at all.. I had this.. and a slight warped disc boiling fluid
single line system coooper s master cylinder. i bought the minispares system. the standar pads were totally shit. i put ebc green stuff then it started to stop
what about when you do a vtec swap can you still run the booster brakes
Non servo disc brakes only on Cooper 998 and 997 (1962-1969) 7 inch.
I hate typing! wish u guys had a phone. That said, love the videos plan on the brake suggestions just waitin for the money and the time. Had my x Ausy police car since 03' wish it was the original 998 with and trans. it was upgraded to a 1293 with rod change (not my decision. long story.) Thanks for all the time wish I was there helpin. Make an e-mini so mama can drive, she hates gears. Asta boys!!
Cheers! Electric mini will hopefully happen one day soon.
I have a boosted system on my 91' mini, but I find that it hardly brakes like it should be... I've already cleaned all the brakes calipers, put on new Goodridge stainless hoses and braking pads, drained the braking fluid, bleeded it, but the brake still lacks some power...
Is there anything to look for on the booster/servo side? Anything that could wear and explain that lack of power?
Thanks for the great videos!
Hi, sounds like you've taken the right steps to get a good brake feel. Assuming it's bled properly, if it's not braking great then maybe there's play in your brake pedal clevis pin. Any play in the linkage between the pedal and the master cylinder will reduce efficeincy of pressing the brake pedal. Another thing to consider is that you have brake pads that suit the application (street or track).
Did you have engine on when bleeding?
Do a brake booster rebuild. Mini Spares has a kit. There is next to zero videos on this for all car types.
Options on a Moke?
I imagine any system strong enough to lock the wheels is good enough!
Agreed
What's the best system to use in a vtec mini?
Depends on your setup, but focus should probably be on using good brake pads, calipers, and fluid.
We need Volkswagen Golf-GTi V6 Cafe Racer Hatchback and Civic Type R Hatchback.
How do I get a mini in Canada?
Not to sound like a dink, but look for one? and buy it. There are plenty of the classic models around.
an option sticker on a mini??? :o
First!
Third?
Second ☺️
Didn't answer "which is better"
The point is there's no objective right answer. We feel the single line offers the best control, but a split system is safer. And servo brakes are easier to press but you lose some pedal feel.