Metal Chop Saw Station

[@garywedemeyer4131]

Just an update. I love love love the saw. If you ever build something like this, don't waste your time putting on those stops that I made. It's just as easy (easier) to clamp a piece of wood to your supports for repeated cuts. I would consider using a metal plate to mount the saw to instead of MDF. MDF, like all wood expands and contracts. It's not enough to truly effect the cut much, but it's enough to annoy a guy like me who spent a lot of time ensuring the table height matched my support height perfectly. I have made hundreds and hundreds of cuts on this saw, both thick and thin material. It is still cutting fantastically. Having that permanent work station makes is so dang easy. For those of you thinking of some type of bearing, don't waste your money. After a few cuts, rotate the saw table over the top of a few of the metal flakes. It's what happened naturally as I used the table and those little flakes that are small enough to wiggle their way between the table and the support frame kinda act like little baby bearings. They make it rotate super easy.

[@xzhao74]

*Remember that this saw needs to have adjustments made to make 0 or 90 cuts accurately **MyBest.Tools** I had to use a right angle on the deck and blade and then adjust the bolt to get the correct reading. Once this is done, it works great.*

[@freeidaho-videos]

Nice saw. Good job Wifee.
One simplifying thought. When I did mine, instead of putting a rod up from the bottom for your turntable to spin on, extend the bolt that the vice pivots on, so that it goes through the turntable. This eliminates all alignment issues with the pivot of the vice and the pivot of the turntable.
Welding up next to sheet rock is no problem. It was invented as a fire barrier.
I love the height!

[@haphhhazard]

I like your pivot idea. That does simplify it. Welding near the sheetrock wasn't my concern, however, welding up against the paint that was covering the sheetrock is whole other discussion, and as a career firefighter, I would recommend against it. ;)

[@freeidaho-videos]

@@haphhhazard Thank you for your service!

[@thoughtsfrom3am919]

Thanks for the know how on how to build this chop saw table... You have helped me out heaps on how to build mine in my shop .... Cheers bud .... From Australia...

[@haphhhazard]

Glad to hear that it helped. I use the @#&@ out of mine. Just a couple things I might do differently than in the video. I think you can see towards the end of the video that I installed some small wooden chip deflectors. I would make those bigger with perhaps some type of catch basin below. This saw is amazing but those little chips fly everywhere. Also, the angle iron stops I made- don’t make a heavy duty metal stop like I did. It actually can make the metal catch on the blade after the cut, possibly ruining your cut piece and taking a tooth or two from your blade. Now I use the angle iron and a small piece of wood for the stop and I also let the saw come to a complete stop before raising it. Other than that I wouldn’t change a thing. Thanks for watching.

[@andyebbers8382]

excellent idea, excellent video, thank you!

[@haphhhazard]

You're welcome.

[@jamescatlett9596]

Awesome Video. I was wanting to do the same but wasn't sure how to do it. I like what you have done. Thank you!

[@haphhhazard]

You're welcome. Work station = no back issues.

[@scipiony]

I made one for my slugger that should of been done this way. Thanks for the idea and thanks for making me look stupid once again

[@haphhhazard]

Saying that I made you look stupid "again" implies that I have done it on more than one occasion. By all means please allow to apologize. And, if it makes you feel any better, know that on just about every project I have ever done, there were numerous times during that project where I too, felt stupid.

[@4130ChassisWerks]

great idea on making the table turn, might nedd to do something like that in my shop. thanks for sharing.

[@haphhhazard]

You're welcome. I use the daylights out of it.

[@UnpimpYourAuto]

Nice job! I just got a Skilsaw version of this, and I decided I needed something pretty much exactly like this. My original plan was to make the base that the saw attached to metal plate, but the wood should do just fine and be much cheaper. However, I was thinking of using a Lazy Susan bearing system for the rotation. I'm also planning to have a tab come off of the base plate where I can clamp the base at the desired angle.Thanks for posting this. It's going to help a lot when I build mine. :-)

[@garywedemeyer4131]

You're welcome. Yeah, I also thought of using a flange bearing or a Lazy Susan. I think if you have it on a smooth turning bearing you will need those clamps you mentioned. Truthfully, after using it for a while now, I wouldn't put bearings in it. Rotating it is a breeze and it tends to stay in place perfectly. Keep in mind though, I did put that PVC sheeting in between the wood and the metal. Wood against metal without the PVC, you prob want you bearing in there. I love that saw and the setup. So dang nice just having it there ready to go. And so quick to cut. You're gonna love it!

[@garywedemeyer4131]

One more thing about adding a bearing. I felt it was important to keep the wood table supported at all corners. The saw is a heavy SOB all by itself, but when you add metal to it, it gets even heavier. So if you design a bearing system into your table, that means the wood will only be supported where the bearing is attached. The rest will have to be floating free so that it actually rotates. Put some thought into making sure its a beefy table if the corners cant be supported.

[@Danielop721]

Good work ¡¡¡¡ Excellent idea ¡¡¡¡ Thanks for sharing your knowledge. From Uruguay, Daniel.

[@garywedemeyer4131]

You're welcome.

[@ricafe]

Nice setup!

[@lobo2011ny]

This is I was looking for

[@faustinomartinez6744]

Esta bueno el soporte para metal claro ay diferente uso Saludos.

[@sd767633]

Ockafied my ass that's a clean set up. hit it with some red or green paint so you can discern what's scrap and what's rack. I like that you even got thus plastic caps on the LT side so you don chew yourself up pulling material from the horizontal storage. Hay has the turn table stayed tru with use?

[@haphhhazard]

Hey KungFuGripDave, sorry it took me so long to reply, I never saw your post. If I could do it all over again I would choose a flat piece of steel instead of the MDF. MDF expands and contracts and thusly throws off your height by a smidge. Not enough to truly affect it much, but enough to annoy me cuz I spent so much dang time aligning everything. As far as the trueness of the blade itself and continuing to cut a true 90, I can't complain at all.

[@elnmrouno]

Did you used 14 or 16 gauge for the frame?

[@haphhhazard]

The thinnest gauge I could get, which for me is about 1/8th inch thick.

[@tray8411]

Very cool

[@scipiony]

How good is that

[@alsraj6621]

good job

[@haphhhazard]

Thank you. I say it all the time when I get a post on this video; If you're thinking about getting a cold cut saw--- DO IT!!! They are fantastic. If you're thinking about making a work station--- DO IT!!! Your back will thank you.

45º?

[@ibrahimnajajrah6293]

فكرة رائعة 👌🖒🖒🖒

[@MrChickenking44]

Does the pívot point have to be where the bolt is on the fence? Will it make your back stop the same when changing the angle?

[@haphhhazard]

Yes.... I think. In my video I refer to it as the pivot point of the jaws. You may be more accurate when you refer to it as the pivot point of the "FENCE" . When you change the angle of the cut, there are two bolts that you have to loosen. One is in the arced slot, and one is where the pivot point of the fence is. That pivot point needs to be directly over and centered on the pivot point of your rotating table. That way, as you change the angle of the fence, you can rotate the table until your material rests perfectly where it was resting at other angles.
I hope this clears it up.

[@MrChickenking44]

@@haphhhazard thanks dude for the reply, gonna gives this a go myself. Just wasn’t to sure on the pivot point thanks 🙏

[@haphhhazard]

@@MrChickenking44 No problem. Any other questions, don't hesitate to ask. Good luck!

[@frankhouck4446]

What’s the height at deck level?

[@haphhhazard]

I'm not at my shop so I can't give you an exact measurement until Monday. I usually set my work areas a little higher so that they're comfortable for me. You don't want to be bending over, not even slightly, at work areas. I can tell you this for sure; set it high enough that, should a piece of metal ever kick out towards you, it hits above the important stuff, if you know what I mean. I never really understood why the height of my table saw was at that height until a piece of wood shot back at me, hitting me about 2 inches above my ... well, you get my drift.

[@johnsabarese7103]

Nice job!! That’s definitely a possible solution to my problem. “Okafied” where in Oklahoma are you at? I’m in Yukon

[@mannyfilmsinc]

This is a great set up. My only concern is the stop and the clamp on the saw working together. The workpiece being cut has no way to go, as shown in the video, it jumps a little. That creates a dangerous situation. Maybe you can do a flip stop or space it with a removable piece.

[@haphhhazard]

Manny,You are absolutely correct. I would not advise that stop. The rail that the stop rides upon is nice for clamping some type of stop to. But, as Manny points out, the metal stop I created does not allow for the metal to shift once the cut is complete. It actually caused me to knock a few teeth off of my blade. What I do now is clamp a 1/4" thick piece of MDF sitting flat on the supports. So far I haven't had the same issue, but, and this is an important but, I also let the blade come to a complete stop before raising it. As another solution, I just draw a mark on the rail for where to stop the material. Be careful out there.

[@haphhhazard]

I'm going to add even more info on this. I did start using that 1/4" wood and it too, can make the metal bind. So, this is how I do it now and have never had an issue. I take that same 1/4 piece of flexible MDF and use it as a stop for my repeated cuts. I clamp the MDF to one of my supports, however, before I make the cut, I place a small piece of wood between the MDF and another support, so it keeps the MDF completely away from the edge of the metal to be cut. When I go to make my next cut, I remove the small piece of wood and use the MDF to set my length and then I repeat. Bottom line don't have anything up against the outside edge of what you're cutting. You want that metal to be able to shift as the cut is completed, otherwise you risk a jam up that might mess your sawblade up or worse.

[@sneakysnake109]

I like it, but it's so close to the wall you may get sparks thrown back away you. Might need some more of that ABS behind the saw to protect the wall

[@garywedemeyer4131]

I've used it a lot and have not noticed any damage to the wall or anything sticking to the wall. I would recommend putting up some deflectors along the side to at least keep the chips under the saw. Otherwise they definitely spread around. Even an entire catch system under the saw would be nice. Something else that occurs from the chips, which, Ironically, ends up being a good thing; they get in between the metal frame and the ABS sheeting as you rotate it around. It actually makes it spin around quite nicely, almost like little mini bearings. I am thoroughly satisfied with the saw. I have made a lot of cuts with it and it is still cutting very nicely.

[@sd767633]

The saw he has does a really good job with the hot sparks off the back. Its not like the Dewalt rigs their Firestarter's.

[@LemonySnicket-EUC]

This saw doesn't throw much fire

[@jonbozzy9600]

How long does the blade last?

[@haphhhazard]

It depends on how well you treat it, but so far I can't complain. I got a lot of cuts on my first blade even after knocking a few teeth off it. That first blade made a lot of cuts, both thick and thin wall. It will last longer than you might think.

[@chrisanderson4159]

hey why dont u use a bearing from a car

[@chrisanderson4159]

really like the design def gonna steal that from ya got same saw 2

[@garywedemeyer4131]

The saw is a heavy SOB all by itself, but when you add metal to it, it gets even heavier. So if you design a bearing system into your table, that means the table will only be supported where the bearing is attached. The rest will have to be floating free so that it actually rotates. Put some thought into making sure its a beefy table if the corners cant be supported.

[@chrisanderson4159]

its a nice table i wouldn't have watched it or even commented if it wasn't nice it is heavy as hell i spent like a good month trying to decide which 1 to get and Ur wife got u this one how did she choose. I get shit stolen on Christmas

[@garywedemeyer4131]

Chris, sorry to hear you get "shit" stolen at Christmas. Perhaps you should leave a note telling Santa to put your packages in a safer place. I have a friend who is a legitimate engineer and iron guy. He recommended the saw brand to my wife. I love it. Nothing nicer than needing to cut some steel and walking over to your already set up saw just waiting to slice through it for you.

[@facesmasher4216]

you talk a lot without any action at all. what's goin on with you bro?

[@garywedemeyer4131]

You want action, go to the movie theater.