Liberty 404 Residential Pump DIY Installation
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- čas přidán 10. 09. 2024
- My Saniswift pump failed about a month ago, so it was time to install a new pump. I could have easily replace with another Saniswift but decided to go with a different pump. This was a wise choice as the Liberty 404 is a serious upgrade. This project took a little time, patience and some careful and accurate plumbing. Hope you enjoy!
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Liberty Pumps 404 1/3 HP, 115V Residential Drain Pump (amzn.to/2KeWRuu)
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Perfect setup for my shop urinal. I'm done with having to go into the house for #1. Win!
Ha ha!
Great build. This is a definite project I will be adding to my future outdoor kitchen. Thanks Reg
Nice work brother. I am working on a cool DIY air filter. It's been a lot of fun. Hope to have the video up soon. Thanks for taking the time to video this. God Bless Brother.
Cool. Hope you are feeling better!
Thanks! We are using this in a basement kitchen (sink and DW). I thought I needed to clean it frequently, but I can't find anything online on how
code requires the use of a wye fitting in that 4" main pipe not a sanitary tee
Good to know.
Hi, I'm also installing this pump and was hoping you could help me with product links to the one way and shut off valves
I had this pump installed to get dispose of the water coming out of my sink and dishwasher. Currently the water backs up in the sink until the pump apparently turns on and sucks all the water out. How do I get the pump to turn on before the water backs up into my sink?
You put the p trap under the sink ?
I think you had the right setup the first time. The union should be on top of the check valve. That way if the check valve fails you can replace it. The check valve is really the only moving part in the line so it is the only thing that might fail..
Yes, thinking now I could have put a union on the top too. I was thinking a union on the bottom in case I have to switch out the pump. I figure if the pump fails, I will just cut the pipe at the top and replace the whole assembly and definitely put a union on both ends. Thanks for your comment, good suggestion. BTW, this pump is just rock solid, very pleased with it's performance.
I agree to have the union on top too.. if you ever needed to disconnect, you still have that other shutoff above the union that you would close so water would not come through.
If you slow down the water flow with your valve there the Motor will run longer like its supposed to it runs for three seconds cuZ it pumps faster than your water can supply so slow down the flow till th pump runs a bit longer then your pump will last longer
Just watched this exact issue on This Old House's CZcams channel!
I was wondering about this too. I am going to be installing one of these tomorrow, I will make sure to put in a valve so I have that option if the pump seems to be running fast.
Adam, Gold Diamond is incorrect.This is not the type of pump that needs to be necked down with a ball valve. It has its own reservoir with a float so it only starts when the res tank is full. He put a ball valve in for repair purposes only. Necking this system down with a ball valve would increase wear on the pump. If you have a pump that attaches to the bottom of the sink with no tank then a ball valve would help you out..
Correct, the ball valve is only to close the line in case I need to do repairs. Thinking I did not want back flow or gas enter the room in the line was opened up.
2:28, why do you need a sump pump container pit, underneath the sink, can't you just set this pump on the floor next to the sink?
The sump is completely separate from 404 pump. The 404 discharges to our septic/mound system. The sump discharges outside the house directly.
Looks great! My exact pump has been installed for a year now with no issues. Now whenever it discharges, the sinks will gurgle upstairs....could this be a venting issue on the inlet or vent line? I just had my septic pumped for good measure, but the gurgling still occurs.
Thanks for watching. Yes, sounds like a venting issue with the gurgling. Are you jooked up to the house vent?
I have a friend with a 403. Everytime it runs it smells. Do I need to vent it outside or into another vent or can it just be vented into the basement as it is open
Yes, vent to the outside or to you current venting system that would go tot the outside.
Hi Green Mountain guy. I just got the 404 pump installed but is not working. Is not taking the water out. My question is by any chance did you drilled a hole in the pipe where the manual instructions it saying to Do?? I don’t see that part you doing the hole on your video. Please help. Thanks.
I did not need to drill. Do you have the pump vented?
Hi, does this pump need a gravity pitch or it can suck waste water from a below gravity drain?
The pump is placed below our septic drain.
Hi please respond with an update on how this pump is holding up. I"m in the process of doing the same thing and I want to make sure I get a pump that's going to last for many years. (I see a lot of negative reviews and poor life span on SaniFlo pumps).
This pump is still going strong. Zero issues. I switched from a SaniFlo years ago!
I have a dishwasher with no air gap or vent connection on the drain hose, just a high loop under the sink. Since the DW is only used once a week, we're getting occasional swampy smell from the DW, which is often used as a drain rack for hand-washed dishes. Can a smaller version of this pump be added under the sink to solve this, instead of cutting in marble counters for an ugly air gap? Or would the 2nd pump fight against the DW's built in pump or cause other issues? thx
Jeph Bennett sorry, I don’t have answer, but hopefully someone will chime in if they know.
I have the same setup, but it recently stopped working, there is just standing water in the sink. I have never cleaned the pump, and was wondering what I needed to do so. I cant find anything useful online
Check the electrical outlet to make sure the pump is getting the power it needs to power-up. I think these pumps have a pretty good warranty, you might want to also check into that too. Let us know what you find out and good luck.
can you connect an inch and a half PVC pipe directly to the inlet for a washing machine or do I have to have a sink and connect the inlet from the connections under the sink?
Irvens Augustin Not sure, you might want to do some trial on it. The pump does pump fast and keep it up with demand.
How long from start to finish? Thanks.
Maybe a couple of hours...
Thanks for the video. I had a question if you don't mind. I want to install a sink in my basement but I am confused about the vent pipe part of the pump. I really dont know where to tie in the vent pipe or the water drain pipe to my existing plumbing. Is there a easy way to know?
Matt, both the vent and the drain pipes can look the same so that can be
somewhat confusing in itself. I recommend that you run some water and
listen to what pipes are actually the drain pipes. In my situation, I
had larger pipes to tie into so the drain pipes were obvious. Hope that
helps. It you don't any vent pipes, you can probably use an air
admittance valve. In reviews on Amazon, users said these valves worked
with the liberty pump.
I have one installed but yet to turn on. I remember seeing something in the manual about the plug. Can you confirm as the manual was not as clear. I think you use one switch outlet where the two plugs (Daisy chaining each other) connects?
requires to be plugged in, better yet have a Shop Vac and plenty of towels clean up the water leakage , and strong odour from the so called sealed tank.
what type of pipe you use what is that material is that? sch 40 non pressure astm etc?
yes, sch 40 non pressure.
Would you recommend this pump for a kitchen sink with daily use?
I probably wouldn't do it but it is tough enough to get the job done.
Is it going to throw particles too? I am planning to put it for a little kitchen sink in the basement. There may be food particles etc,
it can handle some solids, but i am thinking about installing a disposal upstream if I can get it all to fit under the basement kitchen sink
@@billyeverett6584 Yes I installed disposal also, not very heavy, but it will work.
Can this pump be cleaned
Yes. It opens up. No issues yet...
@@GreenMountainDIYGuy I've had the pump for a year-and-a-half it started to give me problems so I opened it up cleaned it all out and I had to buy a new float now it's working flawless again. The plumber who put it in never told me that I had to do maintenance on it now I know what to do.
What is the purpose of having 2 electric power cords to the unit? Seems a bit unusual.
Guess I found my own answer from the manual, the setup allows you to plug the pump directly into power to operate the pump in the event of a float switch failure. From the manual: The 404 and 405-series pumps come factory-equipped with a float switch mounted within the tank. These models come with two cords - one to the float switch and the other to the pump motor. The switch cord has a series (piggyback) plug enabling the pump cord to be plugged into the back of it (see Fig. 4). The purpose of this design is to allow temporary manual operation of the pump.
Thanks for the video, it was very informative. I have a question: I wanted to have a similar pump installed in my basement. The liberty pump site specifically states "no studor vent or equal device cannot be used...an open vent must be used". The plumber I contacted said a studor vent will work fine. What would you suggest?
Pascale Guillaume I think a studer vent will work fine too. I think the company probably recommends against since it is not code in some places...
@@GreenMountainDIYGuy A studor vent won't work, since that is a one-way only valve. Air needs to get out of the basin in order for water to get in. An air admittance valve won't allow that to happen -- it only lets air in. (I recently figured this out the hard way.) It has to be an open vent so air can flow both ways.
@@GreenMountainDIYGuy we just made this mistake tonight
I don’t think a student vent will work. That pump requires a lot of air.
Been 4 years how is it holding?? Ill be installing the 404L which is just the 2” version for my in-laws next week
Zero issues and zero maintenance so far! Thanks for watching.
Hey. Nice vid and explanation. I have the same pump. Moved some plumbing around and disconnected it. Want to go back to it but have one question regarding the inlet. It says vent or inlet. You're running your vent from the top. I believe my initial install ran my drain into the top and vented from the side. I'm guessing it doesn't matter which one of those 2 get the incoming water as long as it exits the discharge? Thanks and hope you still check the comments here! 🤞
I believe you are correct on vent/inlet. Either one can do one or the other. Good luck with your re-install.
Does your pump have a model number on it? I just bought one of these because of your video, mine has 2" I/O ports and the model number is 404L. I think yours is a 404 with the 1 1/2" fittings.
Thanks for sharing your clip it helped me pull the trigger on this pump.
I will have to look a closer look at it. I believe you are correct the the regular 404 model uses 1-1/2 inch fittings
how long did the saniswift last? thanks
and do you like the liberty better? thanks
Maybe 2 years at most.
It is a major upgrade compared to the saniswift.
Do you have a P trap under the sink?
james kelly Yes, there is a P trap located under the sink.
Thanks for responding 👍
Thanks for watching and asking!
Code violations..but as long as it works
Could be. No code enforcement in my town or county (not saying that is right). Only in Burlington.
Have this pump in my brand new built home and from day 1 it leaked failed and has odors ...horrible product being replaced as the keys are being touched with this comment ....
Santos Jerez Sorry to hear, mine has been running perfect since day one!
You put the p trap under the sink ?
Yes!