Epoxy Resin & Wood Basics Series - Flood Coating (Part 10/11)
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- čas přidán 15. 05. 2022
- Epoxy Resin And Wood Basics Video Series - 10/11 - Flood Coating With Epoxy Resin For A Glass-Like Finish
The epoxy resin and wood basics video series was created by CraftedElements.com to teach you everything you need to know about creating incredible wood and resin boards, furniture and functional art. While oriented towards woodworking novices, beginners and resin artists, this series also includes some helpful tips and tricks that even seasoned makers may find useful.
Use coupon code ERWBVS for 10% off molds and templates at CraftedElements.com or epoxy resin at TotalBoat.com (@TotalBoat )
Recommended Product Links & Resources
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Molds: Crafted Elements - craftedelements.com
Router Templates: Crafted Elements - craftedelements.com/collectio...
Router Sled: Crafted Elements - craftedelements.com/routersled
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Epoxy Resin: @TotalBoat - craftedelements.com/a/totalboat
Makerpoxy (For Pours Under 1/2") - craftedelements.com/a/totalbo...
Thickset (For Pours Under 1.25") - craftedelements.com/a/totalbo...
Thickset Fathom (For Pours Up To 3" & River Tables) - craftedelements.com/a/totalbo...
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Pigments: Black Diamond - craftedelements.com/a/blackdi...
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Mold Release Option 1: MG Chemicals 8329 - craftedelements.com/a/mg8329
Mold Release Option 2: Mann Ease Release 200 - craftedelements.com/a/mann200
Bark Removal Knife: Beavercraft Draw Knife - craftedelements.com/a/drawknife
1/4" Flush Trim Bit: Amana 46297 - craftedelements.com/a/amana46297
1/4" Plunge Template Bit: Amana 47224-S - craftedelements.com/a/amana47...
3/8" Plunge Template Bit: Amana 45475-S - craftedelements.com/a/amana45...
1/2" Plunge Template Bit: Amana 45460-S - craftedelements.com/a/amana45...
2.5" Slab Flattening Bit: Spe Tool 2.5" - craftedelements.com/a/spetool...
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By far the best finishing video i have seen! Well done!!
You mentioned that a person could leave the bottom unfinished. I'd recommend against that. I would always finish the bottom with something. In climates where humidity changes, wood that is only finished on one side will absorb humidity from the unfinished side and start to warp. It is why we tell rookie woodworkers that they can't "lazy out" and only stain the visible surface. I loved this video though as I was always trying to figure out how to do an epoxy flood coat on a project and couldn't figure out how to get it on all surfaces... now I know you dont.. you just do something else to finish the bottom. Great video, thanks !!
Makes sense Steven. You are correct in your statement.
Amazing transition. Beautiful.
Excellent! Thanks
Very helpful!
Great video & tips!
Keep it up!
Awesome tutorial, thank you!
Great video thank you
Just came across this video but I have followed your channel, this came at the right time I needed a flood coat for a noodle board I just finished , great tips it came out GREAT!!
That is an outstanding demonstration ….Very good job, you taught me what I needed to know…and you demonstrated as you talked…saving me time.
So satisfying seeing the flood coat applied!! Awesome video!
Totally! Brings out the best in these pieces
This was a fantastic demo - you covered everything we could’ve wanted - nice job!
Thanks for saying so Mike!
This was really useful. I didn't know about the sanding. I was all prepared to sand to a really high grit before flood coating. It's good to know that you only really need to go up to 120 or 220 at most. It will certainly save a lot of time. Thank you.
You are welcome Tricia. Glad we could save you some time.
Probably one of the best tip videos out. I keep getting tiny fisheyes where the epoxy doesnt want to adhere, gonna try the glvoe method and hopefully itll bond better.
Great information. Thanks,
Glad you found it helpful!
Best video ever. Ready to do flood coat and this video is great. Thanks
Thanks for saying so Danny.
Awesome content, thanks, very well presented.
Thanks for saying so Steve. We try!
Thank you. that was fantastic. Is this food safe as a charcuterie board?
Very Nice Bud. In all does it matter which one you pour into the other? Thanks
Hi,super informative an detailed although my questions are which epoxy to purchase for (my cable reel bottle cap project) & how much...an a clear finishing coat is fine.thanks
I have a red oak live edge slab that I want to stain (minwax oil based stain) prior to doing a flood coat. Do you recommend any surface preparation prior to flood coating or a specific resin to deal with the stain or a different stain?
Hi, Sean, I am enjoying this series of videos. I am a woodworker, but as a newbie to resins, it has given me a good foundation for getting into wood and resin work. I made a charcuterie board from cherry wood with a large burl and knot that would contain the resin. I sanded everything to 320 grit and applied a coat of cutting board oil. After seeing this video, is there any way to remove the oil and do a floodcoat on this piece?
Yes, youll have to sand it down with a low grit (60?) and work back up. You really dont want to apply resin over any sort of oil coat for obvious reasons.
Great video. The information was timely. I was finishing a project and the client wanted a high gloss finish but I was having trouble with separation…. Why? Because I sanded to 320. I will try just sanding to 120. Thanks for the info!
Boom! Problem solved :-)
I am new to all this I have purchased 3 of your molds so far. is there any reason to not use a flood coat on a charcuterie boards? I love the finish more that just the board oil.
Good question. Quite simply, epoxy resin is going to be relatively easy to scratch and scuff. So if its a well used board, its going to get slightly abused. Exposed wood (finished with oil) simply lasts longer, and you can reasonably cut on it if needed.
@@CraftedElements On epoxy/wood projects I tell customers no cutting at all as epoxy and knives don't go well together and that it is a serving/charcuterie board only. On "wood only" boards, you can cut and serve.
But what if the epoxy doesn’t ‘take’ to the wood, but did with the color? My wood section has areas of bareness where the epoxy moved off!! What can I do now?
Great video btw, love your products!
I can only assume that perhaps your wood was pre-finished or oiled, and not bare. Did you sand your entire piece to 80 or 120 grit prior to floodcoating? You will have to sand it back down and do it again if you have a patchy floodcoat I'm afraid!
Doesn’t heating the resin cause premature yellowing
Hi Sean (hope it’s the correct spelling)! Thanks for the informative video series! Just a quick question though. How do you calculate how much table top epoxy resin you would need for a flood coat, especially irregular shapes like a double layered cross? I’m not sure if you covered this in another video…
I usually just estimate the surface area of the item (in inches(, then multiply by 1/4 (1/4") that gives you the total volume in cubic inches. Then convert that to oz (google X cubic inches to oz). Thats enough to cover the piece plus the overflow for the sides, then waste.
@@CraftedElements I’m assuming you multiply it by with 1/4” because that’s the thickness you are after? Correct? So if I want a thickness of 1/8” then I would multiply with that value?
Quick question: when I do my flood coats, I end up with little dimples in the epoxy the next day. I tried to remedy this by putting some metal tape around the edge to keep the epoxy from dripping off (plus I hate seeing all that wasted epoxy the next day lol). It works, but now my clean routered edge is all janky looking and need to be fixed. Do you think spreading it by hand as you do will help? I've been using a foam brush. Great video!!
What are you sanding to? You need to do 80/120 grit max. If you sand too fine, its the surface tension that creates those dimples on the surface and the epoxy spreading away from them. I would also avoid a foam brush, it could possibly introduce air into the epoxy.
@@CraftedElements I am sanding to 120. It was thinking that maybe I was missing coverage spots on the surface with the brush and that was causing the dimples.
Is flood coat scratch resistant, as I want to flood coat my resin bar top?
Epoxy is not scratch resistant. It has good resistance but its easily scratched with sharp objects. It really just depends on the frequency of use. If you are just putting bottles and glasses on it, its fine.
In previous videos you really explained the the best way to figure out how much epoxy to mix but here you rushed over it. What is the best way to calculate amount needed. I understand the area of the project is easy but it's the thickness that gets me. Not knowing how thick it is can really throw the math off on a larger pour. I assume around 4mm or 3/16" (which is closer to 5mm) maybe? I do not want it thicker than that for sure.
Just determine volume. Easiest way is to determine surface area (LxW) then multiply by depth (or height). That will give you a number in In3 (cubic inches) assuming you are measuring in inches. Then multiple cubic inches by 0.55 to get oz of fluid.
@@CraftedElements Yes I know how to determine volume. I am asking how thick is a pour usually?
Strictly based on the wood you are using@@Zedster88 . If you are just doing resin, it could be 0.5 or 2". No "standard" per-se.
@@CraftedElements I am truly sorry for all of the misunderstanding going on here. I used the word pour when it should have been flood maybe. You can't be telling me that a single flood coat can be 2 inches thick. I am trying to figure out the normal thickness of a flood coat or whatever you call a top coat of resin on like a countertop or table. So you can calculate the volume needed to coat the top of whatever.
If i had to guess, 1/8"@@Zedster88
sorry... too long lol