+Dan_from_Epsilon_Crucis Thanks Dan! I am glad it helped! You will enjoy the set! Please let me know f you have any questions about it...or any other Vallejo products. Enjoy!
+tomrace16 Thanks Tom! Give them a shot. The AVF sets are a great way to try out the paints with minimal investment. As you can see, quite straightforward to use. As for the issues with the "other" paint....I don't know your set up, but they are designed to be applied in ultra thin coats building up the color. Similar to dusting coats. It takes a bit longer but should do the trick. Little to no thinning should be needed and lower pressures might help out. Best of luck! Let me know if you have any questions once you pick up the new paints! ;)
+Todd Michalak Thanks Todd, I am spraying with a HS ultra , never had a problem till "that paint " seperated, I think due to the cold. Always sprayed at correct pressure, kept gun clean, but the paint started to look as if it was floating on the top of the primer in patches, bloches and looking as if there was grease on the base, which there wasn't. So have decided to go down the Vallejo path . I will come back to you thanks once Iam stocked up. Cheers Regards John
"John"...sorry 'bout that! :P Yeah, I have heard that one before too. You might be correct with the cold thing. Same thing can happen with condensation and/or thinning too much. Good luck with the new paints...let me know how they work out for you!! Cheers, T
kalasnikoch, Although the bottle are around half the size of the tradition 17ml bottle, they do last a while due to the process of applying the paint. These are designed to be applied in thinly built up layers resulting in the final multi-tonal finish. If I base the usage on a tank model the size of a Pz.IV, you should be able to adequately cover 4 to 5 models with each set. Remember lightly applied coats for each stage! ;)
@@5150TRM Hey Todd, I got a problem here, when I trying to apply the stain vanish, my airbursh is unable to push the stain vaniah out. There only gas keep coming out but no stain vanish, i shaked it well before you use the vanish. What should I do?
@@Aaron-fl3fx, by "Stain Varnish"....do you mean "Satin Varnish"? Assuming you mean the Satin Varnish, I thin it one drop of thinner to every 3 or 4 drops of varnish. The only other thing that might cause only air to come out and not paint, could be there is some residue stuck in the tip. Try putting some water or thinner in the cup and spraying it. If it acts normally, then try to thin the varnish...add a drop or two of thinner to the cup first, then add the varnish....mix it up with a small paint brush or tooth pick.
Thanks Alex! I suppose taking care to do some good masking is the first thing with the stripes. Next it would depend on if you were going for a more weathered look or not. In either case, I would use a couple different white colors...White, Antique White and possibly mix some desert sand if needed. If unweathered I would tend to stay away from the bright white...antique might be better...but that is just a personal call. If you were going to chip the white, you will want to thin the paint somewhat and build up the layers...with whites of a couple different shades to add contrast. If you use a chipping medium and thin the paint, you can control the chips to any stage of weathering.
Just picked up the Soviet air, airforce Vvs great patriotic set for my IL2 I'm away to start never built a plane or used these vallijo Airs yet be a change from airbrush enamels and tanks n armour! Looking forward to this first plane build alot in it engine detail PE and clear part cockpit engine cover and gun covers in a 1.35 scale full metal landing gear I would like to use but want to try a diarama of it just kind of taking off! Be a challenge but plenty time just now and love a challenge haha!
+Bruce Robert Hi Bruce! Thanks for watching! I have thought about trying to put together a short video on the NATO set with the 3 color camo. Timing is everything...and I don't dive into the modern scene often, but it makes for a good reason to try and find a suitable victim...errr, model to play with!!
Hello Deward, Thank you! Welcome to the hobby my friend! There are a number of opinions when it comes to airbrushes. Being that you are jst starting out, there are a number of different ways to go Harder & Steenbeck, Badger, Iwata, Master and more if you care to dig deeper. Personally I use two different airbrushes; both are what I consider to be mid-range cost-wise running about $120 to $130 US. Harder & Steenbeck's Evolution Silverline Solo - Here is the main site to check out what they have - www.germanairbrush.com/ This is a German based company but they do sell many places and have a location in the US where mine came form - Precision German Airbrush - precisiongermanairbrush.com/ They sell all the supplies and replacements for their brushes as well. You can also pick and choose how you want you brush to be. The second brush is Badger's Renegade Krome. - www.badgerairbrush.com/ Again, they sell just about everywhere and parts are available to. They also have a great policy of customer service. Any problems with the brush, send it back with a pre-paid box to send it back to you and they fix it for free....most cases within 72 hours. I am not sure if the Krome is actually sold still, but I certainly could vouch for the quality of its predecessors. The Renegade Site - www.renegadeairbrush.com/ Other brands work really well for many people and like the ones I use, it all comes down to personal preference. If there is a local hobby shop or even AC Moore or friends with airbrushes, try and get some into you hand and see how they feel. I am not a small guy but yet both the Krome and Solo fit very well in my hands where others seem to get a little lost or the balance may seem off to me. Starting out, I would suggest going with a gravity fed double action airbrush. In my opinion a much better brush than siphon feed. Try and stay away from something too cheap though as you do get what you pay for but you certainly do not need to spend over the mid-range costs I mentioned to get a great airbrush. If you have any other questions, feel free to fire away with a question, also, if you like, you can stop by my website - Modelers Social Club Forum - modelerssocialclub.proboards.com/ Great bunch of folks at all different skill levels, having fun, building and sharing both their works and their knowledge! Hope to see you there soon!! Happy New Year!! Cheers, T
Paasche's H series airbrush and compressor set got me through many models before I upgraded to a Talon brush for more control and finer lines. The compressor is great and cannot be beat for the price. Check Amazon for deals.
Thank you! I do have a short one on the OD and Weathering set - czcams.com/video/5Ite5PGTGeg/video.html I am trying to get a small series of videos started now covering start to finish...breaking it up into shorter segments. I will try and touch on some OD stuff if possible.
While I use a variety of airbrushes with different sized needles, for the most part, the most used size is 0.2mm.....which is installed in the Badger Krome airbrush I used in this video.
Hi Chief, Thanks for the kind words on the video. I do have one video that gives a basic look and usage of the set - czcams.com/video/5Ite5PGTGeg/video.html The weathering part starts about 4:30 into the videos. Sadly, I did choose a braille scale model for the review and the results would be much better in a larger scaling. The set is fairly straightforward. There are three model colors included with the set. The Camo Black Brown is straightforward in that it is a perfect color for adding rust chipping. Even though it is Model Color, and designed for brush applications, it is possible to thin it to airbrush and add a more blended rust staining. The other two colors work in combination with all three. Mix a little with each...or all and you can obtain different rust tones. The model washes...well, they are washes...LOL!! They both can be used to darken (accentuate) panel lines or panels. These can be applied with brushes and or airbrushes. They thin with water to lighten your initial approach to weathering or when creating filters. They can also be added to the Model Color paints to give even more variation to the colors. The pigment provided is a generic European dirt type coloring. It can be mixed with either the Model Color or Model Washes (and Model Air if you have any). You can use just water to thin them for specific application and panel dusting or applied dry. You can obtain more texture by mixing them with the Model Color and then adding more layers of wet or dry pigments on top. There is a clear Pigment Binder added to this set. you can use this full strength or mix it with water or even airbrush thinner. Maybe 1:1 but this comes down to you personal preference. II like to apply a damp to wet coat before the pigment and it will bind the pigments to the surface. If you tap the pigment on top, you can blow off the excess and there will be some nice texture left behind...which you can build off if you want. You can also apply the pigment to the surface and the binder after. This should not change the color characteristics to the pigments like a clear coat will. It is a fun set to play around with. It will give a great start to fundamentals with weathering. You can find out what you like and how some things work and open the door to other pigments, washes and paints you can use to enhance the weathering even more later on down the road.
You're welcome! As for clear coats...it is best to protect your work before moving on to the weathering stages. It also helps better manipulation of some of the effect...such as washes and streaking. Sometimes I will clear coat after washes, but not too often. I do not clear after pigments have been added. Clear coats tend to change the color too much for my liking. If and when I do clear coat, I will use a satin. This helps with weathering and will not put too much shine on things. If there is unwanted shine afterwards, I will pop a matte coat on to being it back to flat. All of this comes down to personal preferences and of course confidence in what you are doing. If you are comfortable with your bag of tricks then sometimes adding clear coats at certain stages can be bypassed if the base you are going over is cured. Cheers, T
Stupid question - is there a match in normal Vallejo Model Color or Model Air to the Green and Light Green? I already have the 4BO primer and the first two color equivalents, along with the satin varnish, but I'd rather not spend $15ish to re-buy the whole set just to get two missing colors. Thanks for posting this - I'm planning on using it to try stepping up my painting game on a BRDM-2.
Hi Mohn, This is not a stupid question. The two colors, .223 & .225, are specific to the AFV set. Those wo number do not show up on the equivalency chart to convert to Model Color as well. I response to you post, I have sent off an email to Vallejo asking if they have information on converting these two color. As soon as I receive a reply, I will comment here with the results. In the meantime, Russian Green 71.017 is only a 1/4 to 1/2 tone off from the 71.223 Green and could be used in substitution. Also US Light Green 71.137 or Camouflage Light Green 71.006 are close matches to 71.225. In both cases a slight adjustment could be made by tinting lighter or darker as needed. I will let you now what I hear from them soon.... Thank you.
Sweet, thanks! I tend to err towards Model Color so I can thin as needed or handbrush to touch up (also because Model Air has always had a tendency to not flow cleanly through a .38mm nozzle, and I have yet to buy a bigger one) and thus far, it looks like the best options to equate based on what you're saying and based on the kit contents: -Model Air #018 Camouflage Black Green = Model Color #89, Military Green -Model Air #017 Russian Green = Model Color #96, Russian Green -Model Air #223 Green = ? (I'd guess just add grays to match as needed or offset) -Model Air #225 Light Green = Model Color #80, German Camo. Bright Green
The BRDM-2 is a fantastic platform to play around with! Big panels for all sorts of weathering! I am going to be completely honest with you...I have been doing technical support with Vallejo for a couple years now and you are the first one to mention having better luck airbrushing Model Color over Model Air. LOL This is not a bad thin by all means....I just find it very interesting. A couple quic questions if you don't mind? What are you thinning the Model Air with...if you thin at all? What airbrush are you using? What pressure are you shooting at? I ask, because I use a number of airbrushes myself, but one in particular, and H&S Infinity, has a .15 needle and have very little issues running paint through it. I will use a .2 for most priming as the primer is a bit thicker on the darker colors. Thanks for letting me know about what you are experiencing with the Model Air. I would love to help get to the bottom of what might be happening!
I never thinned the Model Air - I applied it right out of the bottle after shaking. I'm using a Paasche Talon with the stock .38mm nozzle/needle. I usually have been shooting at 18-20psi. I had issues with Model Air twice - once with a bottle of Barley Gray, once with another color which I forget. The Barley Gray was lumpy and no amount of shaking by hand made it work. I tried just getting what I could through the airbrush and was met with no luck. I added some Thinner Medium to see if I could mix it free, but still no luck. I had to completely tear down my airbrush and clean it in the ultrasonic cleaner with lacquer thinner. The second time - I forget the color - I shook the bottle with a jigsaw, just to ensure everything was evenly mixed. I was okay for a little while but swiftly got huge amounts of tip-dried paint. To be honest, I've accepted tip dry as inevitable, even at low pressure - I was spraying the 4BO primer just the other night, straight out of the bottle, and it was at around 10-12psi. I eventually got tip dry, but I just keep a Q-tip soaked in Windex handy to swab it out and continue. I also had the same thing happen with Model Color flat black thinned for airbrushing. I generally thin at 3 drops Vallejo flow improver and 3 drops Vallejo airbrush thinner per 10 drops of paint, with 2 drops extra of each for the entire bottle, and even then I get tip dry. I kinda thought this was just par for the course. For what it's worth, I do tear down the airbrush and give the metal parts an ultrasonic lacquer bath every couple of weeks. Even after that I get a bit of tip dry. I'm not ruling out the possibility that my local hobby shop just has older paint; they don't sell much Vallejo. Still, though, to hear that a .15 is doing well leads me to believe something's gotta be up with my airbrush.
Sorry...I had to watch my daughter game for a bit! I don't think your airbrush is the issue. It does sound possible the paint at the store is old as you mentioned. If you think about it next time you hit the LHS, copy the batch number down from one or two of the bottles and I can inquire about it. Because, 3 drops of improver and three drops of thinner to 10 paint does seem like a lot to me....the fact that it dries with all that is interesting as well. The pressure is spot on.....drying tips will be inherent of most water based acrylics. like you with the Q-tip, I keep a flat brush damp with thinner next to me when I spray. Every so often I give it a swipe to ensure it is clean.As for the Flow Improver, I personally don't use it as I have not had any issues that warrant using it. But, 1 drop per 10 is recommended...and that was from my recommendation when testing was being done. Typically I thin model air about 1 drop per 4 to 5 drops of paint. My psi settings are similar at 12 to 15 psi and I slightly regulate the flow of air using the trigger. All of the conditions/factors you are using seem to point to the paint...for my opinion. I have had one issue before with the black primer...which I use all of the time, it was doing something similar. I chalked it up to a bad batch and grabbed something else Another factor is you shooting the primer and having no issues. The primers are slightly thicker than the paint. If you ever make an attempt again, try one drop of thinner....you could try one drop of Vallejo AB Cleaner too. I will use the cleaner to thin depending on the weather conditions. There is an extra surfactant in the clean to help suspend the paint.
I actually agree. I feel the tank should be painted one base coat, place down oil pinwashes, dot filters, and other chipping effects, some colour modulation works but to me, hilighting in this way only really works on model faces. That is just my opinion, and anyone is free to disagree with me.
I could certainly do one if it will help. One thing about the Dunkelgrau set was how close the shifting in color was from paint to paint...the two colors in the middle were real close, I think 1/2 tone off. I used the set a couple times already and found it worked really well if you start with the base color and the first coat but then lighten the 3rd step color with the highlight...drop or two. I have also just skipped the 3rd step and went right to the highlight. I will dig something out from the stash and see what I can come up with! It may take me a couple days to get things rolling and then a couple more to get it all sorted and posted if you can wait. If you try again before then and have a question, just fire away!! ;)
Today in 2017 this set has different paints... mine comes wtih AK029 shadow, AK030 "dark base" then base, then light b ase, then "highlight" then ":shine"... no primer! Now i am painting acrylic, over enamel, fingers crossed hoping nothing goes wrong...
Hello Robert, The AFV Sets from '"Vallejo" have remain unchanged. "AK029" and "AK030" are "AK Interactive paints. Acrylicos Vallejo does not make AK Interactive's paints....they are two separate companies. With that said, as long as the enamel base you are using is dry and cured properly, you should have no interaction between the enamel and acrylic paint.
No worries my friend. Interestingly enough, many people actually think Vallejo makes their paints or is owned by them because the owners of both companies have the same Vallejo last name. Vallejo is like Smith or Jones...very common. I can tell you that you should be okay with the enamel base primer. Just make sure t is cured before you add the acrylic colors. To be safe, wait 12 or 24 hours or so. After that, AK paints are designed to be applied in thin application built up. Turn you pressure to about 12 or 15 psi and lightly dust coats on not trying to fully cover the model in one pass. If working modulation you should be okay applying paint into the creases in one or two passes. Repeat the process with the other colors until you get you desired effect. Just build up the effect in light evenly applied coats and you should have no problem. Good luck!
I've learned never to write off the different paints, Acrylics are great for chipping and base coats, but i like to use oils for rust and streak effects. Panzermeister36 and Night Shift are two really good armour modellers that have shown me the light on how to elevate a model from basecoated to making a realistic model.
Хорошо выходит!! -- Но это ХУДОЖЕСТВО! я смотрел т-34-76 1940 года --ВЫДЕЛЯЕТСЯ КОНТРАСТ И ЯРКО ОЧЕНЬ - в реале это не так -но как художник то шикарно!
Спасибо, мой друг! Позвольте мне извиниться за мой "русский язык", поскольку мне нужен переводчик Google, чтобы это произошло! лол Когда дело доходит до моделирования, есть много способов завершить проекты. Попытка подобрать и точный цвет для определенного времени, места и если машина пережила тяжелые бои или погодные условия - это небольшой список вариантов, которые необходимо сделать моделисту. Мне нравится использовать тени и блики, чтобы придать визуальную форму износу или возрасту. Хотя это не всегда абсолютно точно, это может вызвать некоторое визуальное возбуждение .... LOL
How about the interior ? I dont get it ? Why does a Trumpeter 1/35 scale Russian BMP-3E IFV cost me $16. but a similar Tamiya kit cost $60-$70.? This will be my first tank model in 40+ years. I do not see how to Maya could be any more quali and have more parts and detail than this trumpeter kit. My Next paycheck I'm going to buy another Russian vehicle for 15 bucks which I guarantee you will have as many parts as a Tamiya kit not to mention they come with laser etch metal part for $15. Screw Tamiya, cuz they are screwing us ! Yes I understand they make kids that trumpeter does not make. Oh well
Sorry Harry. Although this video is about paint from Vallejo, I understand the never ending questions about kits all to well. My basic take on kits goes in a couple different directions. Tamiya kits are nice in that the fit to the parts is typically excellent. They do not offer photo etch and more often than not, the tracks end up being the useless black bandies. Trumpeter kits are excellent as well and will not set you back money-wise either. As of late, I have found that if I come across a kit I want to build, it is worth the effort spending a little more to get something all-inclusive...link and length or Indy tracks and a cheap PE set to make some parts look better. Well worth the effort and money. I found looking around, you can pretty much find a good deal on just about any kit. Hit a local show...you can find some great deals. More often than not, the kit is cheap enough that it is worth the effort to buy aftermarket parts and make a real gem of a build!
@@5150TRM I just got back into building a few months ago BUT If it were not for the 200+unbuilt kits I kept in my closet from 30 years ago when I managed a Hobbyshop, when models were relatively inexpensive . I dont think I would of got back into it seeing the price tags on alot of these kits. Not to mention the paints,air brushes and so forth.I do commercial HVAC and dont have the time to go to shows or hunt something online. I did find a GREAT hobbyshop in NJ. called AAA Hobbies which is also Meggahobbies for their mailorder business. HUGE warehouse with a store front. Im like a kid in a candystore. But I cant bring myself up to fork out $40.-$60. Per decent kit. I'll build what I have. I think the cost of a kit is hurting the hobby for young people who have other outlets like video games. I dont see them having the attention span to spend that kind of Doe on a model when a game gives them more fun and excitement. Maybe I'm wrong.
@@5150TRM Got a question.Whats your opinion on Trumpeter 1/72 and 1/48 scale aircraft. If they are like the Russian tank model I bought, I will only be buying Trumpeter Aircraft. I have 1/72 jet aircraft models but want to go bigger for WW1 and 2. They get too small in 72 scale right ?
Welcome back! LOL I think we all go through bouts of leaving the hobby and coming back. While this is the "golden age" of modeling, we are in agreement that costs are sometimes a bit out of control. Like you, I have a healthy stash and probably could never buy another kit and have enough to build out my days happy and in peace...LOL Recently, I have come to realize there are a number of newer kits, that while expensive, are incredible kits and need little to no aftermarket parts to enhance. I will only buy what strikes my fancy, but, will also actually get built. I have not impulsively bought kits for a long time now. With that said..."ANY" kit will build up to an impressive display. I have proven this with a good friend of mine a few times now...we trade off building basically the same kit, but one is a new expensive kit and the other an old standard from way back. More often than not, people do not notice the difference. I know the value of time too...I am a contractor...but, I will spend some time on the weekend sometimes, trolling Amazon or Ebay looking for aftermarket parts for certain kits I know I will build. There are some great deals to be had. Even if it is fenders for a German panzer to enhance soft detailing on a kit...5 to 10 bucks is not a bad price to pay for something that will help you accomplish a decent build. Along with models, tools and whatnot can be obtained as well...as you go. There is a lot of mumbo-jumbo balh blah online when it comes to airbrushes, compressors and paint...etc. At the end of the day, this is all opinions. Case in point, is my compressor.....Harbor Freight 1/3 hp unit...probably $70. I beat the hell out of it as I do demonstrations at some of the bigger shows here in the states. Works like a charm. I could spend $300 on a "professional" version, but why waste the money. Airbrushes are a little different, but not too bad. You do kind of get what you pay for, but overall, $80 to $150 will yield a brush that will gain you a lifetime of quality use. I do know AAA. Stevens International is one of the larger model distributors and owns the building and Mega Hobby is his sons online business. AAA is owned and operated by another individual...if my memory serves me right. But they do have a great selection and anything that is typically an order, they can run in back and get it from the distributor....LOL I have a bunch of local shops up here in MA, but I do like MicroWorld Games, LLC...they are in Baltimore and have just about everything. Usually ship within 2 days and pricing is always decent.
@@5150TRM Hey Todd, thanks for your response. After reading your comments I get the idea you are a Picaso of Scale Model building world where I'm a person who takes a beginner Art class at my local community colleges .Lol. I kind of realize we need to be smart at buying kits. I just bought a Trumpeter 1/35 scale Russian Tank 70's era. I paid $16. at AAA Hobbies not expecting much.Boy was I wrong. The quality all around is confusing cuz why are they so inexpensive and Tamiya rapes us ? The quality of the plastic,packaging,Detail is phenomenal. This kit scares me.Lol Are their aircraft just as good ? I WILL NOT attempt this kit until I hoen my skills. Which leads me to this..... I bought a compressor package deal from Amazon (?) . 3 Airbrushes, hoses,compressor with regulator, and moisture trap, 8 acrylic paints for $120. Sooooo, how much better is a expensive airbrush compared to "Master Airbrush" brand model G22,or S68 ? What is the real difference ? Longevity, ease of clean up ? It looks like quality but what the heck do I know ? Even though I have a ton of boxed unbuilt kits, mostly cars which dont interest me at this point in time, I bought 3 kits at AAA. Up until now it was just military jet aircraft in 1/72. But I have been itching to do 1/48 WW1 and 2 aircraft because of the more detail aspect of it. Just bought 3 models cause I couldnt help myself LOL.. All $15-$18.. Range. Revell 1/48 Stuka and ANOTHER 1/72 A10 from Academy. I'm 85% finished with a Monogram A10 kit which is dreadful compared to my Hasagawa and Academy kit but im using it to practice on.Sorry...I am long winded or long fingered.I can go on and on . Again....Thanks for responding to my comments.
This is best the video I've seen describing this method - Thank you
Thank you Andrew!
clear, concise, the perfect tutorial...thanks Todd
chris hughes thank you Chris!
fantastic tutorial! I will be buying this now! Thanks Todd.
+Dan_from_Epsilon_Crucis Thanks Dan! I am glad it helped! You will enjoy the set! Please let me know f you have any questions about it...or any other Vallejo products. Enjoy!
Thanks for the tutorial, Todd. It's really helpful.
You're welcome Ridhzuan! Thank you for taking the time to watch it! ;) Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for the upload, helped!
Great video Andy a wish list for the kit thanks
Thank you!
Todd, thanks for a great tutorial, need to get thses as having problems with --- ---- another Spanish producer.
+tomrace16 Thanks Tom! Give them a shot. The AVF sets are a great way to try out the paints with minimal investment. As you can see, quite straightforward to use. As for the issues with the "other" paint....I don't know your set up, but they are designed to be applied in ultra thin coats building up the color. Similar to dusting coats. It takes a bit longer but should do the trick. Little to no thinning should be needed and lower pressures might help out. Best of luck! Let me know if you have any questions once you pick up the new paints! ;)
+Todd Michalak Thanks Todd, I am spraying with a HS ultra , never had a problem till "that paint " seperated, I think due to the cold. Always sprayed at correct pressure, kept gun clean, but the paint started to look as if it was floating on the top of the primer in patches, bloches and looking as if there was grease on the base, which there wasn't. So have decided to go down the Vallejo path . I will come back to you thanks once Iam stocked up. Cheers Regards John
"John"...sorry 'bout that! :P Yeah, I have heard that one before too. You might be correct with the cold thing. Same thing can happen with condensation and/or thinning too much. Good luck with the new paints...let me know how they work out for you!!
Cheers,
T
informative, thank you.
+Chin Pow You're welcome...thank you for watching!
How long does a one of those 8 ml bottles last? Thinking about investing in an airbrush but i cant find any good local color supplier...
kalasnikoch, Although the bottle are around half the size of the tradition 17ml bottle, they do last a while due to the process of applying the paint. These are designed to be applied in thinly built up layers resulting in the final multi-tonal finish. If I base the usage on a tank model the size of a Pz.IV, you should be able to adequately cover 4 to 5 models with each set. Remember lightly applied coats for each stage! ;)
Thanks man, just ordered one of these sets to try it out for myself!
kalasnikoch
Great!! Please let me know if you have any questions! Good luck and enjoy!
Thank you so much man, this helps a lot.
You're welcome. Glad to hear this helped some.
@@5150TRM Hey Todd, I got a problem here, when I trying to apply the stain vanish, my airbursh is unable to push the stain vaniah out. There only gas keep coming out but no stain vanish, i shaked it well before you use the vanish. What should I do?
@@Aaron-fl3fx, by "Stain Varnish"....do you mean "Satin Varnish"?
Assuming you mean the Satin Varnish, I thin it one drop of thinner to every 3 or 4 drops of varnish. The only other thing that might cause only air to come out and not paint, could be there is some residue stuck in the tip.
Try putting some water or thinner in the cup and spraying it. If it acts normally, then try to thin the varnish...add a drop or two of thinner to the cup first, then add the varnish....mix it up with a small paint brush or tooth pick.
@@5150TRM Thanks I will add some thinner, sorry wrong spelling.
No worries...I just wanted to make sure we were talking about the same product....LOL Best of luck...please let me know how you make out!
Nice video!
Thank you Alex!
Very helpful, thanks. Any advice on how I paint a white campaign stripe on the model?
Thanks Alex! I suppose taking care to do some good masking is the first thing with the stripes. Next it would depend on if you were going for a more weathered look or not. In either case, I would use a couple different white colors...White, Antique White and possibly mix some desert sand if needed. If unweathered I would tend to stay away from the bright white...antique might be better...but that is just a personal call. If you were going to chip the white, you will want to thin the paint somewhat and build up the layers...with whites of a couple different shades to add contrast. If you use a chipping medium and thin the paint, you can control the chips to any stage of weathering.
Just picked up the Soviet air, airforce Vvs great patriotic set for my IL2 I'm away to start never built a plane or used these vallijo Airs yet be a change from airbrush enamels and tanks n armour! Looking forward to this first plane build alot in it engine detail PE and clear part cockpit engine cover and gun covers in a 1.35 scale full metal landing gear I would like to use but want to try a diarama of it just kind of taking off! Be a challenge but plenty time just now and love a challenge haha!
Who cares
Hey I just found this but it is very interesting! have you thought about doing this using the multi-color camo, like the modern AFV set??/
+Bruce Robert Hi Bruce! Thanks for watching! I have thought about trying to put together a short video on the NATO set with the 3 color camo. Timing is everything...and I don't dive into the modern scene often, but it makes for a good reason to try and find a suitable victim...errr, model to play with!!
Hey Todd,
Great video! I have a question I'm new to model building. What airbrush system do you recommend?
Thanks...
Hello Deward,
Thank you! Welcome to the hobby my friend! There are a number of opinions when it comes to airbrushes. Being that you are jst starting out, there are a number of different ways to go Harder & Steenbeck, Badger, Iwata, Master and more if you care to dig deeper. Personally I use two different airbrushes; both are what I consider to be mid-range cost-wise running about $120 to $130 US. Harder & Steenbeck's Evolution Silverline Solo - Here is the main site to check out what they have - www.germanairbrush.com/ This is a German based company but they do sell many places and have a location in the US where mine came form - Precision German Airbrush - precisiongermanairbrush.com/ They sell all the supplies and replacements for their brushes as well. You can also pick and choose how you want you brush to be.
The second brush is Badger's Renegade Krome. - www.badgerairbrush.com/ Again, they sell just about everywhere and parts are available to. They also have a great policy of customer service. Any problems with the brush, send it back with a pre-paid box to send it back to you and they fix it for free....most cases within 72 hours. I am not sure if the Krome is actually sold still, but I certainly could vouch for the quality of its predecessors. The Renegade Site - www.renegadeairbrush.com/
Other brands work really well for many people and like the ones I use, it all comes down to personal preference. If there is a local hobby shop or even AC Moore or friends with airbrushes, try and get some into you hand and see how they feel. I am not a small guy but yet both the Krome and Solo fit very well in my hands where others seem to get a little lost or the balance may seem off to me.
Starting out, I would suggest going with a gravity fed double action airbrush. In my opinion a much better brush than siphon feed. Try and stay away from something too cheap though as you do get what you pay for but you certainly do not need to spend over the mid-range costs I mentioned to get a great airbrush.
If you have any other questions, feel free to fire away with a question, also, if you like, you can stop by my website - Modelers Social Club Forum - modelerssocialclub.proboards.com/ Great bunch of folks at all different skill levels, having fun, building and sharing both their works and their knowledge! Hope to see you there soon!! Happy New Year!!
Cheers,
T
Paasche's H series airbrush and compressor set got me through many models before I upgraded to a Talon brush for more control and finer lines. The compressor is great and cannot be beat for the price. Check Amazon for deals.
Fantastic video, thanks you I encorage you to make nother video about olive drab US to AFV.
Thank you! I do have a short one on the OD and Weathering set - czcams.com/video/5Ite5PGTGeg/video.html I am trying to get a small series of videos started now covering start to finish...breaking it up into shorter segments. I will try and touch on some OD stuff if possible.
What size of needle and airbrush do you use?
While I use a variety of airbrushes with different sized needles, for the most part, the most used size is 0.2mm.....which is installed in the Badger Krome airbrush I used in this video.
Hi Great video. I was wondering if you have a video on the olive drab US weathering tutorial it it has the half track on the front of the box?
Hi Chief, Thanks for the kind words on the video. I do have one video that gives a basic look and usage of the set - czcams.com/video/5Ite5PGTGeg/video.html The weathering part starts about 4:30 into the videos. Sadly, I did choose a braille scale model for the review and the results would be much better in a larger scaling.
The set is fairly straightforward. There are three model colors included with the set. The Camo Black Brown is straightforward in that it is a perfect color for adding rust chipping. Even though it is Model Color, and designed for brush applications, it is possible to thin it to airbrush and add a more blended rust staining. The other two colors work in combination with all three. Mix a little with each...or all and you can obtain different rust tones.
The model washes...well, they are washes...LOL!! They both can be used to darken (accentuate) panel lines or panels. These can be applied with brushes and or airbrushes. They thin with water to lighten your initial approach to weathering or when creating filters. They can also be added to the Model Color paints to give even more variation to the colors.
The pigment provided is a generic European dirt type coloring. It can be mixed with either the Model Color or Model Washes (and Model Air if you have any). You can use just water to thin them for specific application and panel dusting or applied dry. You can obtain more texture by mixing them with the Model Color and then adding more layers of wet or dry pigments on top.
There is a clear Pigment Binder added to this set. you can use this full strength or mix it with water or even airbrush thinner. Maybe 1:1 but this comes down to you personal preference. II like to apply a damp to wet coat before the pigment and it will bind the pigments to the surface. If you tap the pigment on top, you can blow off the excess and there will be some nice texture left behind...which you can build off if you want. You can also apply the pigment to the surface and the binder after. This should not change the color characteristics to the pigments like a clear coat will.
It is a fun set to play around with. It will give a great start to fundamentals with weathering. You can find out what you like and how some things work and open the door to other pigments, washes and paints you can use to enhance the weathering even more later on down the road.
+Todd Michalak thanks so much for the info I'm going to try it out today also do I clear my tank/vehicles before I weather or after? thanks again;)
You're welcome! As for clear coats...it is best to protect your work before moving on to the weathering stages. It also helps better manipulation of some of the effect...such as washes and streaking. Sometimes I will clear coat after washes, but not too often. I do not clear after pigments have been added. Clear coats tend to change the color too much for my liking.
If and when I do clear coat, I will use a satin. This helps with weathering and will not put too much shine on things. If there is unwanted shine afterwards, I will pop a matte coat on to being it back to flat. All of this comes down to personal preferences and of course confidence in what you are doing. If you are comfortable with your bag of tricks then sometimes adding clear coats at certain stages can be bypassed if the base you are going over is cured.
Cheers,
T
+Todd Michalak ;) Cheers
Stupid question - is there a match in normal Vallejo Model Color or Model Air to the Green and Light Green? I already have the 4BO primer and the first two color equivalents, along with the satin varnish, but I'd rather not spend $15ish to re-buy the whole set just to get two missing colors.
Thanks for posting this - I'm planning on using it to try stepping up my painting game on a BRDM-2.
Hi Mohn, This is not a stupid question. The two colors, .223 & .225, are specific to the AFV set. Those wo number do not show up on the equivalency chart to convert to Model Color as well. I response to you post, I have sent off an email to Vallejo asking if they have information on converting these two color. As soon as I receive a reply, I will comment here with the results. In the meantime, Russian Green 71.017 is only a 1/4 to 1/2 tone off from the 71.223 Green and could be used in substitution. Also US Light Green 71.137 or Camouflage Light Green 71.006 are close matches to 71.225. In both cases a slight adjustment could be made by tinting lighter or darker as needed. I will let you now what I hear from them soon.... Thank you.
Sweet, thanks! I tend to err towards Model Color so I can thin as needed or handbrush to touch up (also because Model Air has always had a tendency to not flow cleanly through a .38mm nozzle, and I have yet to buy a bigger one) and thus far, it looks like the best options to equate based on what you're saying and based on the kit contents:
-Model Air #018 Camouflage Black Green = Model Color #89, Military Green
-Model Air #017 Russian Green = Model Color #96, Russian Green
-Model Air #223 Green = ? (I'd guess just add grays to match as needed or offset)
-Model Air #225 Light Green = Model Color #80, German Camo. Bright Green
The BRDM-2 is a fantastic platform to play around with! Big panels for all sorts of weathering!
I am going to be completely honest with you...I have been doing technical support with Vallejo for a couple years now and you are the first one to mention having better luck airbrushing Model Color over Model Air. LOL This is not a bad thin by all means....I just find it very interesting. A couple quic questions if you don't mind?
What are you thinning the Model Air with...if you thin at all?
What airbrush are you using?
What pressure are you shooting at?
I ask, because I use a number of airbrushes myself, but one in particular, and H&S Infinity, has a .15 needle and have very little issues running paint through it. I will use a .2 for most priming as the primer is a bit thicker on the darker colors. Thanks for letting me know about what you are experiencing with the Model Air. I would love to help get to the bottom of what might be happening!
I never thinned the Model Air - I applied it right out of the bottle after shaking.
I'm using a Paasche Talon with the stock .38mm nozzle/needle.
I usually have been shooting at 18-20psi.
I had issues with Model Air twice - once with a bottle of Barley Gray, once with another color which I forget. The Barley Gray was lumpy and no amount of shaking by hand made it work. I tried just getting what I could through the airbrush and was met with no luck. I added some Thinner Medium to see if I could mix it free, but still no luck. I had to completely tear down my airbrush and clean it in the ultrasonic cleaner with lacquer thinner.
The second time - I forget the color - I shook the bottle with a jigsaw, just to ensure everything was evenly mixed. I was okay for a little while but swiftly got huge amounts of tip-dried paint.
To be honest, I've accepted tip dry as inevitable, even at low pressure - I was spraying the 4BO primer just the other night, straight out of the bottle, and it was at around 10-12psi. I eventually got tip dry, but I just keep a Q-tip soaked in Windex handy to swab it out and continue. I also had the same thing happen with Model Color flat black thinned for airbrushing.
I generally thin at 3 drops Vallejo flow improver and 3 drops Vallejo airbrush thinner per 10 drops of paint, with 2 drops extra of each for the entire bottle, and even then I get tip dry. I kinda thought this was just par for the course.
For what it's worth, I do tear down the airbrush and give the metal parts an ultrasonic lacquer bath every couple of weeks. Even after that I get a bit of tip dry.
I'm not ruling out the possibility that my local hobby shop just has older paint; they don't sell much Vallejo. Still, though, to hear that a .15 is doing well leads me to believe something's gotta be up with my airbrush.
Sorry...I had to watch my daughter game for a bit!
I don't think your airbrush is the issue. It does sound possible the paint at the store is old as you mentioned. If you think about it next time you hit the LHS, copy the batch number down from one or two of the bottles and I can inquire about it.
Because, 3 drops of improver and three drops of thinner to 10 paint does seem like a lot to me....the fact that it dries with all that is interesting as well. The pressure is spot on.....drying tips will be inherent of most water based acrylics. like you with the Q-tip, I keep a flat brush damp with thinner next to me when I spray. Every so often I give it a swipe to ensure it is clean.As for the Flow Improver, I personally don't use it as I have not had any issues that warrant using it. But, 1 drop per 10 is recommended...and that was from my recommendation when testing was being done. Typically I thin model air about 1 drop per 4 to 5 drops of paint. My psi settings are similar at 12 to 15 psi and I slightly regulate the flow of air using the trigger.
All of the conditions/factors you are using seem to point to the paint...for my opinion. I have had one issue before with the black primer...which I use all of the time, it was doing something similar. I chalked it up to a bad batch and grabbed something else Another factor is you shooting the primer and having no issues. The primers are slightly thicker than the paint. If you ever make an attempt again, try one drop of thinner....you could try one drop of Vallejo AB Cleaner too. I will use the cleaner to thin depending on the weather conditions. There is an extra surfactant in the clean to help suspend the paint.
came for the painting method. stayed for the blues music.
it looks cool but it still looks like an airbrushed Russian tank. Ive been around enough tanks to know that's not how they weather or ever look.
I actually agree. I feel the tank should be painted one base coat, place down oil pinwashes, dot filters, and other chipping effects, some colour modulation works but to me, hilighting in this way only really works on model faces. That is just my opinion, and anyone is free to disagree with me.
Todd can you do a video with the Panzer Grey color set. I just tried it on a practice model and it looked like crap. I dont know what i did wrong.
I could certainly do one if it will help. One thing about the Dunkelgrau set was how close the shifting in color was from paint to paint...the two colors in the middle were real close, I think 1/2 tone off. I used the set a couple times already and found it worked really well if you start with the base color and the first coat but then lighten the 3rd step color with the highlight...drop or two. I have also just skipped the 3rd step and went right to the highlight.
I will dig something out from the stash and see what I can come up with! It may take me a couple days to get things rolling and then a couple more to get it all sorted and posted if you can wait. If you try again before then and have a question, just fire away!! ;)
Awesome thanks Todd sounds great!
I don't understand the written instructions
Today in 2017 this set has different paints... mine comes wtih AK029 shadow, AK030 "dark base" then base, then light b ase, then "highlight" then ":shine"... no primer! Now i am painting acrylic, over enamel, fingers crossed hoping nothing goes wrong...
Hello Robert,
The AFV Sets from '"Vallejo" have remain unchanged. "AK029" and "AK030" are "AK Interactive paints. Acrylicos Vallejo does not make AK Interactive's paints....they are two separate companies.
With that said, as long as the enamel base you are using is dry and cured properly, you should have no interaction between the enamel and acrylic paint.
oh.. ok thanks, i thought they were the same.. mine came as a set and with no instructions. i guess i'll wing it
No worries my friend. Interestingly enough, many people actually think Vallejo makes their paints or is owned by them because the owners of both companies have the same Vallejo last name. Vallejo is like Smith or Jones...very common.
I can tell you that you should be okay with the enamel base primer. Just make sure t is cured before you add the acrylic colors. To be safe, wait 12 or 24 hours or so.
After that, AK paints are designed to be applied in thin application built up. Turn you pressure to about 12 or 15 psi and lightly dust coats on not trying to fully cover the model in one pass. If working modulation you should be okay applying paint into the creases in one or two passes. Repeat the process with the other colors until you get you desired effect. Just build up the effect in light evenly applied coats and you should have no problem.
Good luck!
I've learned never to write off the different paints, Acrylics are great for chipping and base coats, but i like to use oils for rust and streak effects. Panzermeister36 and Night Shift are two really good armour modellers that have shown me the light on how to elevate a model from basecoated to making a realistic model.
Хорошо выходит!! -- Но это ХУДОЖЕСТВО! я смотрел т-34-76 1940 года --ВЫДЕЛЯЕТСЯ КОНТРАСТ И ЯРКО ОЧЕНЬ - в реале это не так -но как художник то шикарно!
Спасибо, мой друг! Позвольте мне извиниться за мой "русский язык", поскольку мне нужен переводчик Google, чтобы это произошло! лол
Когда дело доходит до моделирования, есть много способов завершить проекты. Попытка подобрать и точный цвет для определенного времени, места и если машина пережила тяжелые бои или погодные условия - это небольшой список вариантов, которые необходимо сделать моделисту. Мне нравится использовать тени и блики, чтобы придать визуальную форму износу или возрасту. Хотя это не всегда абсолютно точно, это может вызвать некоторое визуальное возбуждение .... LOL
How about the interior ?
I dont get it ? Why does a Trumpeter 1/35 scale Russian BMP-3E IFV cost me $16. but a similar Tamiya kit cost $60-$70.? This will be my first tank model in 40+ years. I do not see how to Maya could be any more quali and have more parts and detail than this trumpeter kit. My Next paycheck I'm going to buy another Russian vehicle for 15 bucks which I guarantee you will have as many parts as a Tamiya kit not to mention they come with laser etch metal part for $15.
Screw Tamiya, cuz they are screwing us ! Yes I understand they make kids that trumpeter does not make. Oh well
Sorry Harry. Although this video is about paint from Vallejo, I understand the never ending questions about kits all to well. My basic take on kits goes in a couple different directions. Tamiya kits are nice in that the fit to the parts is typically excellent. They do not offer photo etch and more often than not, the tracks end up being the useless black bandies. Trumpeter kits are excellent as well and will not set you back money-wise either. As of late, I have found that if I come across a kit I want to build, it is worth the effort spending a little more to get something all-inclusive...link and length or Indy tracks and a cheap PE set to make some parts look better. Well worth the effort and money. I found looking around, you can pretty much find a good deal on just about any kit. Hit a local show...you can find some great deals. More often than not, the kit is cheap enough that it is worth the effort to buy aftermarket parts and make a real gem of a build!
@@5150TRM I just got back into building a few months ago BUT If it were not for the 200+unbuilt kits I kept in my closet from 30 years ago when I managed a Hobbyshop, when models were relatively inexpensive . I dont think I would of got back into it seeing the price tags on alot of these kits. Not to mention the paints,air brushes and so forth.I do commercial HVAC and dont have the time to go to shows or hunt something online.
I did find a GREAT hobbyshop in NJ. called
AAA Hobbies which is also Meggahobbies for their mailorder business.
HUGE warehouse with a store front. Im like a kid in a candystore. But I cant bring myself up to fork out $40.-$60. Per decent kit. I'll build what I have.
I think the cost of a kit is hurting the hobby for young people who have other outlets like video games. I dont see them having the attention span to spend that kind of Doe on a model when a game gives them more fun and excitement. Maybe I'm wrong.
@@5150TRM Got a question.Whats your opinion on Trumpeter 1/72 and 1/48 scale aircraft. If they are like the Russian tank model I bought, I will only be buying Trumpeter Aircraft. I have 1/72 jet aircraft models but want to go bigger for WW1 and 2. They get too small in 72 scale right ?
Welcome back! LOL I think we all go through bouts of leaving the hobby and coming back. While this is the "golden age" of modeling, we are in agreement that costs are sometimes a bit out of control. Like you, I have a healthy stash and probably could never buy another kit and have enough to build out my days happy and in peace...LOL Recently, I have come to realize there are a number of newer kits, that while expensive, are incredible kits and need little to no aftermarket parts to enhance. I will only buy what strikes my fancy, but, will also actually get built. I have not impulsively bought kits for a long time now. With that said..."ANY" kit will build up to an impressive display. I have proven this with a good friend of mine a few times now...we trade off building basically the same kit, but one is a new expensive kit and the other an old standard from way back. More often than not, people do not notice the difference. I know the value of time too...I am a contractor...but, I will spend some time on the weekend sometimes, trolling Amazon or Ebay looking for aftermarket parts for certain kits I know I will build. There are some great deals to be had. Even if it is fenders for a German panzer to enhance soft detailing on a kit...5 to 10 bucks is not a bad price to pay for something that will help you accomplish a decent build.
Along with models, tools and whatnot can be obtained as well...as you go. There is a lot of mumbo-jumbo balh blah online when it comes to airbrushes, compressors and paint...etc. At the end of the day, this is all opinions. Case in point, is my compressor.....Harbor Freight 1/3 hp unit...probably $70. I beat the hell out of it as I do demonstrations at some of the bigger shows here in the states. Works like a charm. I could spend $300 on a "professional" version, but why waste the money. Airbrushes are a little different, but not too bad. You do kind of get what you pay for, but overall, $80 to $150 will yield a brush that will gain you a lifetime of quality use.
I do know AAA. Stevens International is one of the larger model distributors and owns the building and Mega Hobby is his sons online business. AAA is owned and operated by another individual...if my memory serves me right. But they do have a great selection and anything that is typically an order, they can run in back and get it from the distributor....LOL I have a bunch of local shops up here in MA, but I do like MicroWorld Games, LLC...they are in Baltimore and have just about everything. Usually ship within 2 days and pricing is always decent.
@@5150TRM Hey Todd, thanks for your response. After reading your comments I get the idea you are a Picaso of Scale Model building world where I'm a person who takes a beginner Art class at my local community colleges .Lol. I kind of realize we need to be smart at buying kits. I just bought a Trumpeter 1/35 scale Russian Tank 70's era. I paid $16. at AAA Hobbies not expecting much.Boy was I wrong. The quality all around is confusing cuz why are they so inexpensive and Tamiya rapes us ? The quality of the plastic,packaging,Detail is phenomenal. This kit scares me.Lol
Are their aircraft just as good ?
I WILL NOT attempt this kit until I hoen my skills.
Which leads me to this.....
I bought a compressor package deal from Amazon (?) . 3 Airbrushes, hoses,compressor with regulator, and moisture trap, 8 acrylic paints for $120. Sooooo, how much better is a expensive airbrush compared to "Master Airbrush" brand model G22,or S68 ? What is the real difference ? Longevity, ease of clean up ? It looks like quality but what the heck do I know ? Even though I have a ton of boxed unbuilt kits, mostly cars which dont interest me at this point in time, I bought 3 kits at AAA. Up until now it was just military jet aircraft in 1/72. But I have been itching to do 1/48 WW1 and 2 aircraft because of the more detail aspect of it. Just bought 3 models cause I couldnt help myself LOL.. All $15-$18.. Range. Revell 1/48 Stuka and ANOTHER 1/72 A10 from Academy. I'm 85% finished with a Monogram A10 kit which is dreadful compared to my Hasagawa and Academy kit but im using it to practice on.Sorry...I am long winded or long fingered.I can go on and on . Again....Thanks for responding to my comments.