18th Century Stays - My First Historical Costuming Corset
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- čas přidán 8. 09. 2024
- I made my first set of 18th Century stays! This project was completed with the help of the RedThreaded 1780s stays pattern, as well as tips from the American Duchess 18th Century Dressmaking book. It was my entry to a corset sewing competition but more importantly it was a perfect historical sewing project for beginners. It goes under clothes, so no worries if it looks bad, and it gives a really good idea about how the silhouette of the rest of the outfit needs to look like. This is the first part of my English Gown or "Robe a L'Anglaise" project. The other videos in this series are linked below:
Part 1 of Gown: • On the Shoulders of Gi...
Part 2 of Gown: • And You Can Too: My Ha...
It was such a fun experience and I hope you continue to come back to see more sewing adventures to the past! Costube is such a great community and I'm excited to get going on many more historical sewing projects.
Join my Patreon: / lizcapism
Buy me a Coffee: www.ko-fi.com/l...
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The pattern is the 1780s RedThreaded Stays
www.redthreaded...
or on their Etsy page: www.etsy.com/c...
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Social Media:
Instagram: / lizcapism ( @lizcapism )
www.lizcapism.com
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For Business Enquiries:
lizcapism@gmail.com
This channel is strictly for entertainment purposes. I do not accept requests for custom work or commissions. Trust me, I am not that good.
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Music:
Epidemicsound.com
"Room 246" - Cercles Nouvelles
"Off to Battle" - Walt Adams
"A Walk in Marais" - The Fly Guy Five
"The Scent of the Andes" - Mythical Score Society
"Mr Brentford's Garden" - Isaac Gregor
"Buster" - Jerry Lacey
"The Rose and the Thorn" - Johannes Bornlof
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Equipment:
Sewing Machine: Bernina “Bernette” 20
Camera: Canon G7X Mark II
Microphone: Blue Snowball Pro
Edited in Adobe Premiere Pro and Adobe Audition
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Nail files are just pretty sand paper I can leave on the coffee table and no one gets upset by. lol Great job! I truly love your fashion fabric. It makes me gitty.
Try "needling the thread." I am not being facetious - hold the thread tip tightly between your thumb and finger pads at the VERY edge (you almost can't see it) and then press the needle eye in between. Works ALMOST every single time - first time.
Interesting! I would never have thought of that. Will definitely give it a go. :)
Amy Angerer I can vouch for this! I always thread my needle like this, though I had no idea it had a special name!
Yup this was how my grandmother taught me.
That’s how I do it too. Threading the needle onto the thread is a lot easier than trying to thread the thread into the needle.
Yup, this was how we were taught in theatre college. Works for threading machines too.
I love how they came out! It is amazing how often sewists need home improvement tools. I remember making stays for the theatre in college. People would walk by the costume shop and question why there was a lady in a gown with a drill. (I was using a sandpaper bit for the boning).
You're not wrong! I'm blessed with a family who build and renovate and DIY a lot, so I'm pretty well stocked - but it's always sandpaper! Luckily since filming I have managed to remember to buy some.
The fabric you used looks amazing!
Thank you! 😊 It's upholstery fabric from the 80s!
@@LizCapism amazing, recycling at its finest! 😁
@@LizCapism It looks so historically accurate!
Hey! No ideas if anyone told you yet. But to get bias binding around curves, you can iron them! And your bones need to be a little short than the boning channel. That would make the machine binding easier.
I'm in love how you made your fashion fabric match. These stays are so gorgeous
It helps to pad stitch over flexed fingers so that you can go into and out of the fabric in the same movement, much quicker than going back to front. With practice it means you can let the layers slide very slightly so they follow the curve of the body.
And with bias binding around curves it helps to iron the curve into the binding before pinning it on, but really sharp curves are only really controlled by gathering stitches along the inner edge - it is possible when you’re hand stitching to gather it in as you go (I nearly never machine sew bias and that’s one of the reasons) (the other reason is I can’t not make an absolute mess with the machine 😂).
It’s a lovely thing, congrats.
Oh to smooth your curves on the bias tape make sure your on the true bias when you make them and then sew the front side (first side stretching it a bit around the curve but I love your corset very very pretty!
Thanks for the info!
Yours is the first video I've found of this pattern that appears to have actually done it in the order the directions call for! Thank you so much for that! The instructions are good but I'm a very visual learner and have been scouring CZcams for references 😆❤ they look lovely! I do wonder if it would be easier to lower the neckline and shorten straps vs cutting the tabs deeper for your fitting issues but I look forward to seeing how you tackle that either way! Well done!
Part of the reason that I was so eager for this to be my first full video on CZcams was exactly for this reason. I had such a hard time finding visual references and a lot of the geometry was difficult for me to grasp off the page. What is not included (except for a very short clip at the beginning) is my staring at the pattern for HOURS trying to work it out.
This video is so beautiful, I am so profoundly proud that I subscribed to you almost immediately upon watching. Thank you so so much for your craft, it brings me joy
This video makes me want to start a new pair of stays with that Red Threaded pattern right now 😱 They look gorgeous!
Oh thanks, dear! You should definitely - they are very gratifying to do.
Enjoyed all the little hack comments in this - what you did, what you would do differently (e.g. wirecutters vs scissors, what not to do). What you present self-deprecatingly is a series of really helpful small lessons - thank you for sharing and summing up those lessons at the end! And congratulations on doing the thing!
You're too kind! I had a lot of fun with this whole project.
Ive been so nervous to try this but the title for this made me feel like i could!:) can't wait to try!
You totally can do it! The hardest part is the bias binding, and only because it's fiddly, not because it requires any special knowledge. Go slow, double-check the instructions, MAKE A MOCK-UP, and just go for it. I believe in you!
Oh, the joy when the algorithm gets it right! Delightful vid, wonderful stays - and you really really should feel smug, I would have a poster in my window if I won! Subscribed, made coffee, got some binge watching to do...
Oh, I FEEL smug. I'm just trying to control how much I act like it. I'm so glad you subscribed! Hope you stick around for upcoming videos. :)
Beautiful! Just a couple of suggestions--which you might have already figured out: apply the bias tape after the side and back seams are done, then you don't have those pokey-out bits, second, when sewing down the bias tape around curves, use a slip-stitch instead of a felling stitch (I know, some people will say the slip-stitch is not "period"). Slip the needle a little farther thru the fold of the tape, then stick the needle in the stay fabric with a short distance, this allows you to gently gather up the tape edge and not have any ridges or fold-overs in your tape.
Omg I live near you! I'm so glad I stumbled upon your channel!
I'm glad you stumbled over here too! If you mean the neighbourhood, then regrettably I have moved since then. But I'm still very glad to have you!
I love them! I can totally sympathise with the absense of fitting. I have been sewing for decades and never thought of it. Then I discovered costube! (Sigh) All those shirts and dresses that could have fit right the first time!
So true!
I love the fabric, so delicate in appearance.
I adore the fabric you used! Thank you for sharing the ups and downs of your adventure into making stays! They look beautiful!
Thanks for watching! It was such a fun head-first dive, so I'm pleased that you enjoyed it. I hope you stick around for more videos! :)
oust a hint, I learned this from another quilter... don't thread your needle, needle your thread....it takes a bit of patience to learn. But, I will never go back, I've never had a problem with it, you are doing great, love this technique!!!
*just
Liz, thank you so much for beginning your channel. You elucidated so many of the feelings I've had as I watch the thoughtful efforts of so many historical costuming CZcamsrs. Watching the research, the mock-ups, the commentary, the delightful asides, (the adorable pets), the fabric choices, the historically-appropriate construction choices, the deliberate concessions to modernity/accessibility/finances, not to mention the intriguing look into the individual lives of creative people willing to share with the rest of us (I love your Steven Universe stickers, btw)--this has been a joyful accident, and has been a kick in the pants to get me to sewing my own first garments. (Also: first CZcams comment ever. Really.) I'm looking forward to watching more. Thanks again!
You're too sweet! Costube is one of the best things that I've ever come across - I'm glad you feel the same way. This community is so big, and history is so vast and diverse, there's something for everyone! I hope you continue to watch my and others' videos. Well do our best to keep up the good work. :)
Also: Yes, Steven Universe is everything.
@@LizCapism I just found costube a few months ago and it's made lockdown bearable and productive for me. It's amazing watching all the experienced sewers create historically accurate garments and learning so many useful things, but seeing people beginning their journey like you is also really encouraging. I never would have thought about getting into historical costumery but I totally want to make a corset now, and some historybounding-esque clothing. It seems like such a great community, even youtube comments are almost always friendly and constructive!
Aaah qi is the best show while working on a project
Wholeheartedly agree.
I inherited all of my grandmother's stuff too. Snips, knitting needles, embroidery hoops etc.... and she is the one who taught me these crafts to begin with. It is soooo awesome to carry on with these tools
I love that! It's so cool that all of these tools stay useful if cared for properly.
Where the curve bunches the binding, you smooth it out with your stitching.
Well done on this! I would have never guessed they were your first pair of stays! Amazing work!
Thanks so much! It was such a fun project, and I look forward to making more. Maybe one day even drafting my own pattern? Oooh aahhh.
Beautiful sewing. A very enjoyable video too.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I should have started binging your videos a lot earlier they are so good
Oh, you're in Calgary! What a pleasant surprise, I'm in Lethbridge. Great job on these, they're beautiful!
I went to University in Lethbridge. I know it well! Hope you're keeping safe in a little bit less of a hotspot than up here!
@@LizCapism The UofL is fantastic! I did both my music and education degrees there. Here's hoping we can all weather this storm, it's starting to get intense down here so we will see how it goes. Looking forward to cocostube this weekend!
I don’t know what to say, i love this
Wow! Lovely work! That needle threading montage spoke to my soul. I struggle with threading needles so often!
I have encountered a different struggle since filming this... I now sew with needles that are usually too small for even my threaders. So even if I did remember to use them they don't do any good! The struggle is real.
My aunt taught me to lick the thread and the eye of the needle. Spit attracts spit, I guess? Gross but it works 🤷♀️
Lousy sewing machine control can be those snap on feet. If you can get a screw on whole foot, the zigzag/ general purpose one, it may help incredibly. Also, a one sided zipper foot could help for sewing close in stuff like that.
Great job overall though, they look fantastic.
You did the thing. Well done. It looks great. High Five :-)
I know this is a bit late but just stumbled across this and your channel. I started sewing a month ago and almost finished my first project (a pair of stays as well) and joined foundations revealed so it's encouraging to see the beginning of your journey! Tempted to pause my project to get started on the upcoming contest as well.
Super impressed your first set of stays turned out epically amazing! They look really good!!!
I think it’s beautiful!
Thank you!
Wonderful video, so many things I want to comment on but won't as there's too many XD great work
These are so nice! I freaking LOVE Cynthia's patterns! They are super easy to follow and put together. I made those same stays in a week all machine sewn as a challenge. Binding and all. I do plan to make them again, all by hand next. You did a good job! Cant wait to see more. (BTW for binding around the curves that like to pop up, I always run a running stitch inside and pull it so it gathers then stitch it down. That way it lays flat and you can press it in place.)
Great tip!
It looks really great! Fit is always an issue when you are trying to teach yourself how to follow a pattern but to also make it fit yourself with just beginner skills. It looks really good on you though from video. Love from a fellow Albertan! (Ps I just finished my first garment this past weekend and it's a tiny bit too tight too- so I really feel you there)
Random advice from a stranger. Buy tin snips. They work on plastic, they work on metal, and the work to cut large wires. I've owned my pair for ten years now, and I consider them essential. Second random unasked for advice, one I wish I'd taken earlier, get a rotary tool. I got a cheap 30 dollar set at a Christmas tool sale, and it has saved me so much time sanding bones. I found much of my frustration with corset/bodice/stays making went away when I got better tools.
Good tip! I've been putting off a rotary tool for about seven months and I think I ought to take the plunge. I hadn't ever thought of tin snips! Thanks!
I've been there with the needle. Oh boy have I been there.
It looks great! I have a corset pattern I've been putting off, I'm gonna pull it out!
Fantastic!
YAY Calgary my hometown! I'm gearing up to attempt my own stays. researching right now!
Congrats on winning, and they look great!
Oh thanks!
Great job! Fun video. Nice to see a fellow Albertan!
Awesome! Thank you!
So enjoyed your video - new subscriber here! Love your sense of humour and great to catch a costuber in their early days. Found your video pretty professional but the odd little miss like the scissors reflecting your camera showed me how much work you all put in. Looking forward to your future creations and videos so much. And if it was me I’d never manage to be so humble as to tuck away the winning Foundations Uncovered (? half asleep forgotten their name) inside the video. Can totally see why you won. Awesome sewing.
You're very kind! Some people find the "behind the camera/curtain" moments spoil the experience, but I've always really loved that aspect of CZcams. I feel like it demonstrates that not only is it work (as opposed to just turning on the camera and starting) but it's also a bit of a wild-west in terms of creativity. I've seen camera rigs hand-made out of embroidery hoops (Bernadette Banner), a selfie stick mounted on a tripod (Nikki Lee-am) and balanced on top of any solid thing in the room (basically any CZcamsr at some point). I like to think that moments like this demonstrate that it is slightly more accessible than most people realize. Hope you continue to watch and enjoy the videos!
You’re so beautiful. Great job on your stays!
I love your choice of fashion fabric! Those floral stripes are just yummy! Please tell me this is a garment you would wear in public as some kind of historybounding style mashup? People would love this!
Thanks so much! Since the fit isn't quite right, and the shift is still a little wonky, I would probably not wear these out quite yet. But I'm planning on making a slightly less structured version of these stays eventually which would work better with more contemporary clothes.
@@LizCapism I'm very interested in historybounding, which I'm not sure is the right term, but what I mean is taking favorite elements from history and working them into modern outfits. I like to be unique, but it has to be functional too. I like Italian renaissance sleeves, and colonial stays, and POCKETS, and flat straw hats, and linen shifts, and blue jeans and skirts and all kinds of stuff. That's the step I don't see most people leaping across. Either they do historical, or they do modern, but they don't tend to blend much. I think I would wear a short shift (longish shirt length) with stays and jeans, and maybe tie on those renaissance sleeves if I was being fancy!
Try snipping a small amount off the thread when it is being a nuisance to thread, it could work for you. Loved the video, I enjoyed every minute.
Thanks for the tip!
Beautiful!!!! 🌿🌸 I love this pattern
You did an amazing job ! I just finished my 1st stays but I followed the Butterick 4254 pattern A, I never did the stay stitching you did in the beginning (not that I wouldn't have just didnt know enough at the time), and it definitely makes a huge difference. Mine have puckers where the spaces are. I also used a silk material for the outside which was really hard to maneuver especially while sewing boning channels. Lol I had to laugh when you sewed the bias edging around the corners I also had a tough time - I hand stitched mine and it was thin leather so my hands took a beating. I did eyelets instead of grommets which also look very sloppy and are harder than expected. Yours is just lovely tho !! I'd never guess it was your 1st one ever - mine definitely looks like a 1st time adventure....
Sorry for the long comment! New subscriber here - anyways
Happy sewing & stay safe ! 🧵❤
Nail files made for acrylic nails are actually better than sandpaper for boning, in my opinion at least.
That’s fascinating! I’m glad I’m not the only one who thinks so!
Really enjoyed this, thank you! New sub here. Stay safe. Sending best wishes from Down Under🇦🇺😎
You did an amazing job!! They look so good! And we thank you for putting out great content 😊 also Lady of the Wilderness has a great fit guide for fitting stays that have issues. It is awesome!!
Looks great! Love the fabric choice :-) Good job on the editing and voiceover as well. 👍
Thanks so much! 😊
Yay! Congratulations!
Thank you so much 😀
Amazing!!
Thanks!!
LizCapism I’m working on my own first pair of stays. I’m stuck in a mock-up adjusting loop.
I love it! You have inspired me to try to make one for myself. With so many saying how comfortable they are and supportive, I really want to give them a try and perhaps switch over from bras for everyday wear.
Subscribed ! And I wish you great success 💐 and your channel to grow. *waving from north of you in Bashaw* 👋😊 Congratulations 🎉 on your win. 🏆 Well cone! 🌹
Go for it! It's a great learning experience and there's a surprising wealth of knowledge out there if you look for it. I'm so excited for you!
They turned out great! Especially for your first pair of stays (I'm assuming... but I think you said they were your first ones.) Have you checked out Burnley and Trowbridge's CZcams 18th Century Sew along? They are doing at home workshops for anyone who wants to join in. The first project was Pockets, then Petticoat, Apron, and now they are on shifts. They are hand sewing projects but still not too hard to do for someone who doesn't have a fit partner. :D
Thanks so much! The B&T tutorials have been giving me life and something to do discreetly on conference calls!
@@LizCapism I know what you mean! I love the Tutorials... they give me something to do since I'm pretty much not doing anything. LOL
Beautiful work! You have to start somewhere and this was pretty ambitious. Try hairspray on the end of your thread, run it between your fingers to make a sharp, stiffer point.
Great idea! I don't know if I am more likely to keep hairspray near me than a needle threader, but an excellent tip nonetheless!
@@LizCapism Or just wax it ! What I do is I wax the whole thread, and then give the tip a lil more attention, where I press it on the block with my thumb nail, before pullung it out under the nail. That actually gives the thread a flatter cross-section, which is then easy to thread through.
These came out great! Love your videos :)
Thanks so much!
You did the thing!
And so beautifully you did at that.
Congratulations! 🎉💕
Zip ties make great boning
Thanks!
Did you say Calgary? I would slap on a mask and come over to help with fitting, but I'm in AZ...the commute would be terrible! I like your courage! Keep up the good work!
Thanks very much! You're a gem. I used to work for an executive who once did a 24-hour-turnaround trip to Phoenix and that's when I decided I never wanted any position above middle-management. :)
Maybe with the binding you were having an issue with , you could bend the fabric back slightly and pin it to keep it flat before you sew it , I love the fashion fabric you used.
Thanks for the tip! I think more practice will definitely get me there. The fashion fabric is upholstery cotton from Covington. I don't think they sell this exact pattern anymore, but they have a LOT of really pretty micro-florals that would be good for 18th century projects.
@@LizCapism Binding is a pain, I watched lots of videos before I attempted anything, I had never done binding, boning or eyelets before , I made a bodice for a medieval dress, was very pleased with how it came out.
All you can do is practice and keep learning
You make me actually feel ready to try my first historical project. I also live in Calgary and would love to know where you get fabric from? Thanks
Before Covid, I regularly raided the Ujaama Grandmaas sale, the annual charity sale that usually happened in March or April.
I buy stuff from Rick Rack Textiles very often - their customer service and helpful tips are awesome.
I also constantly raid my mother's stash - she's a bit of a fabric hoarder...
Muy bonito gracias sera que nos puedas enseñar a hacer patronaje
El patrón está en RedThreaded.com!
I'm watching a bunch of these in the Hope's that idont screw mine up too much when I make them
You Can Do It! I completely believe in you. As many before me have said, corsets aren't actually hard, they're just tedious because of the need to be precise. Seriously go for it!
@@LizCapism will do! I've made corsets, but never stays and for the HA Belle I'm doing on my channel, I need them!! Thanks for the encouragement!
*gasp* I’m mocking up the same stays right now! And it’s giving me fits! 😆 But I’m in love with all the learning and figuring stuff out as I go (it’s the first step on my journey to eventually making an entire chemise a la Reine). I think I’ll hand-sew the binding as well as it just seems like the better idea. I’m considering ladder lacing instead of spiral at the moment, but your spiral is so pretty. The whole set of stays is truly gorgeous and is so inspiring to me!
I’m also brand new to costube though I don’t make videos. May I ask how you find it so far? You’re so natural and fun to watch!
Thanks so much! I'm loving this little community. There's so many more resources than even last year when I started sewing historical costumes. I learn so much every day from folks. I hope your stays work out! It's a magnificent project!
👌👌👌💕
Thanks!
New to all this. Why are they called stays? And do they not smush the “girls”? Nicely done!
Its the 18th century term. The term stays probably comes from the French estayer: to support, because that is exactly what stays did. Stays turned the torso into a stiff, inverted cone, raising and supporting the bust, and providing a solid foundation on which the garments draped. As someone who has multiple pairs, they are actually quite comfortable if fitted correctly. There is no squishing, they feel like a hug really. More modern bras are actually more uncomfortable than stays to me.
Thanks so much for watching and for asking the question!
In a supplement to Vanessa's excellent comments, I will say that "stays" also sometimes referred to the stiffening material itself, and this seems to be how it was used into the 19th century when the name for the whole garment moved over to "corset".
I will say, I'm not overly blessed in the chestal area, and so it's less of a problem for me. But in general, I find that it lends similar support as a well-fitted bra, and was made to perform the same function. While it could be and was used for fashion, it was mainly a working woman's garment, so her back didn't wear out or her chest move too much while she was working in fields and later, factories.
Very interesting! Thanks!
Iron to smooth binding
Oooh i love thw fabric print! Where did you get it?
I inherited it from my mother's stash!
💙🙏
Hello from a new subscriber, and similarly new to Costube! This is so good! I'm tempted to try making stays, but my materials are pretty limited atm. Probably going to have to be a post-pandemic project
If you have any cotton that doesn't have a specific purpose, now might be a really good time to get a mock-up done right! If you don't have any exciting fashion fabric to distract you, or tempt you to go too fast, your fit will probably be WAY better in the end.
I don't mean to pressure you. Go at your own pace. But maybe this is an opportunity to go slow? Check out a video that @MorganDonner did about corset mock-ups. Amazing stuff!
@@LizCapism you make an excellent point! I'll go have a dig in my fabric stash
@@beccitatefitzjohn7804 you can make them out of almost any medium or heavy weight fabric but cotton or linen are the most comfortable. And denim works great
@@lisacastano1064 I have so many pairs of jeans I don't wear anymore and I'm tempted to use them for stays XD (this is probably a Very Bad Idea!)
@Becci Tate Fitzjohn Hello from a fellow baby Costuber! ^.^
Your stays look fantastic!
By the way, what is the music at 9:40?
All of the music is listed in the description. I don't have the track timings off-hand right now, but Epidemic sound is where I find all my music.
@@LizCapism thanks!
What is the pattern you used to make these?
RedThreaded 1780s stays - redthreaded.com/collections/make-your-own-corsets/products/17stays-pattern
@@LizCapism you don't say this in the title or description, you should, so that it comes up in searches for people looking for videos on that pattern! And a late congratulations is due!
I didn't make that very plain, hold your thread and put your needle on it. When using your sewing machine, use the same principal...
Do I see.... background bunnies?!
I had a moment of doubt when I read this comment and had to re-watch the video to make sure. No bunnies, I'm afraid. It's our dog, Rosie. It's just a weird couple of angles, and so she looks teeny. But yeah... she's our german shepherd dog. :)
@@LizCapism Oh wow, the movement down in a small area looked absolutely like rabbits! Guess Im seeing things!
Quick question - what does pad stitching do for the stays? Just help with structure? I have never heard of that for stays. Now I want to make a pair of stays just to try it!
Great question! Not for structure this time. In this case, it was a temporary measure to keep the lining and fashion fabric together and perfectly aligned while the boning channels and binding were put in place. You could theoretically just use pins, but that would make the surface uneven and possible distort the shape.
The pad stitching got pulled out at the end of construction and because they were such long, loosely sewn pieces, I kept them for use in future projects.
@@LizCapism I will never make stays again without doing this. It is genius. Thank you so much for answering! And I meant to add in the original - they came out perfect, just perfect!
me @ 6:22, HOW IS SHE HAND SEWING WITHOUT A THIMBLE?!!??!?!?!?!?
Ha! It wasn't for long - you'll see by the very next shot, (6:37) I had already learned my lesson and had a thimble on. :)
Can I get a link to the pdf that u printed the pattern from 🥺🥺??
The link to the redthreaded website is in the video description.
@@LizCapismTHANKS 💖💖 I loved your video ~ I wasn't sure about it but u made feel that I can ✊
Darling where can I find the pattern? I must be either blind or simply can’t find it. Sorry to bother 😘
RedThreaded.com has physical patterns and kits, or you can visit their Etsy page for PDF versions of the patterns. :)
Sloppy technique = historically accurate.
Dogness 🤗
That fabric is glorious