Your teaching methodology is precise and short without skipping things that shouldn't be skipped... I have zero need for the skills that you're teaching but I'm somehow contemplating paying for the entire course as this is like asmr for me
I finally finished my first wiring project. Thanks to your guidance, I made it with OEM results. The setup includes : a fused relay block, +/- busses, and a fused distribution block inside for the switches. I quite enjoyed splicing a single 14awg to 2 18awg power and ground wires respectively. My customer couldn’t even tell what it was that I had done on his truck. The give away are the covers on the +/- busses, which are cleaner than the rest of his engine bay.
Such a helpful video! This is one of the most overlooked topics when someone is explaining automotive wiring and i think thats a big reason to why its usually the most “hack-jobbed” things when a novice starts wiring
these videos are phenomenally detailed and straight to the point. i wish i watched this before recently making a harness, i used uninsulated copper butt crimps which did the job but are a little bulkier than open barrels. seeing that trick of pinching the insulation on an open end is fantastic, since i did that in a few spots and in the moment not totally certain if there is a better option but after seeing how you guys do it is a great feeling haha
Even if you didn't manage to find this before starting it's great to know it's given you some extra confidence in what you have done 😎 This is actually a module taken straight from one of our wiring courses and Zac will be stoked to see your comment here mate. By nature, he genuinely loves seeing his work help people. Thanks for taking the time to share your thoughts 🤘 - Taz.
Building a fast car? Get $400 OFF the all inclusive VIP package deal: hpcdmy.co/vipy39 ⚡Wiring your car? This practical wiring course will be perfect for you. Now 50% OFF: hpcdmy.co/offery39
During my many years in the wiring industry this type of termination was faided out, we introduced ultra sonic welding the copper wires together this method was far more reliable and uniformly distributed the current through the wires, perhaps a bit to expensive to introduce though, again great work and easy to understand video!
Been looking for a guide like this for a while, I wanted to find the best way to splice a couple sensor signal wires/ground wires for a dual ecu setup and now I know how I’m gonna build the harness
For an inline 6 injector or ignition harness. would you recommend 1 splice or multiple splices? 1 splice i guess would be less points of failur but multiple splices would be less bulk. Also wouldnt 1 splice be more prone to failure with 7 wire bundle being spliced?
A very informative video. A logic chart would be helpful. Not sure what to use for a 2 wire splice. Why use an open barrel connector? I am guessing they are cheap. And then I have lots of wires that are different sizes. I was going to use terminal blocks for simplicity but they will take up more room. But so simple to swap out parts that go bad. As an electrician I always used wire nuts. But now with stranded wire I need to use something else. But see a logic chart would help. Say you have an LED with 26 AWG wire. The leads are too short so would you solder to an 18 gauge wire so you can work with it?
What do you guys think about using receptacle Deutsch connectors to supply 12V to multi amount of functions, Ground, Sensor return instead of using these open barrel crimps? Would it function as good ?
Great video. 1 criticism, however - I'm not sure you did the heat shrink right. My mate does it so as the red insulator is brown-to-black and bubbly looking, and the black heat shrink is charred, and normally has to put out a small fire. I have to assume his method is correct, because he normally ends up with less than 1 short-circuit per week, and I didn't hear you bragging about your apparent success-to-failure-rate, so I can only assume it is poor. Also, he usually puts more of the insulator IN the crimp/join, i.e. a much higher "plastic insulator:copper conductor" ratio, than I notice you are doing. ok, 2 criticisms. I might send him this link actually, I am sure he will get a great laugh from your amateurish wiring shenanegans - prepare to be heavily critiqued!!
That's pretty much the result I get as well, but mine looks cleaner. You see, I bubble the insulation using my soldering iron and end up with a sanded aluminum look on my joints. The heatshrink however, I brush it with the flame of my bic lighter using the fast back and forth method in combination with a twisting motion while held at a 45 degree angle. As soon as the heatshrink stops moving, remove heat so as to not singe the heatshrink. Then go over it for another ten seconds using the bic lighter method again to be sure you got all the shrink out of it.
@A. Melbs Lol. I don't even remember leaving this message. I must've been messing around. I use a heat gun on my heatshrink. However, when I first started soldering, I used to apply heat too long which resulted in melted insulation. I've honed my skills over the years but thanks for the tips. I do occasionally use liquid tape if the heatshrink or insulation gets damaged. It is good for a quick fix.
Are open barrel splices practical for large gauge wires (ie 4awg battery cable) or is there a different type of splice that is recommended for much larger wires?
When using the heat shrink across the 4/5 wire splice, won't it be vulnerable to water etc in the middle of the 4 wires when the SCL only secures the outside of the wires?
Could this be mitigated with a coating like vaseline/dielectric or liquid thread tape? Possibly contained with a larger sized outer heat shrink. OR a waterproof buss bar (1 in, multiple out)?
@@hpa101 I was just thinking out loud - I since moved ahead working with my harness, and with the multi-wire splices, I heated one to create a "funnel" then filled with a liquid gasket, and then heated the shrink tube entirely, and finished off wiping off the excess gasket that was pressed out.
Where can you get these type of open barrel butt splices like this style that are tin plated copper? All I can find are brass, which I'd never use. Or just plane copper. Which if you use plane copper, you'd really need to put on adhesive heat shrink tubing to help keep the copper from turning green, which could affect the connection if the copper turns green where they touch.
Ahh yes sorry about that, managed to fly under the radar. Note this is something that is easy to get from your supplier too, just as this module is directly from our course material we supply it to help people out. Wire Sizing Chart: bit.ly/3ztFGNi (Note you can also get this from your wiring suppliers) Tools and materials: bit.ly/WiringToolsAndMaterials101 Practical Wiring - Club Level: www.hpacademy.com/courses/practical-harness-construction-club-level Motorsport Wiring Package Deal: www.hpacademy.com/hpa-wiring-starter-package/ - Taz.
What are your thoughts on using connectors that are connected through one end? The male terminal or contact would all be connected. So the female you insert will make a connection to them all. Not sure if that makes sense
Wire Sizing Chart: bit.ly/3ztFGNi (Note you can also get this from your wiring suppliers) Tools and materials: bit.ly/WiringToolsAndMaterials101 Practical Wiring - Club Level: www.hpacademy.com/courses/practical-harness-construction-club-level Motorsport Wiring Package Deal: www.hpacademy.com/hpa-wiring-starter-package/ - Taz.
You either have to watch the live webinar or purchase the course to receive those. But since I have done, here it is: www.hpacademy.com/assets/33268f057a/Wiring-Webinar-Materials.pdf? www.hpacademy.com/assets/c08f3ce35e/Wiring-Webinar-Tools.pdf?
Sorry the comments here flew under the radar, Gabriel is a legend, thank you! I've added them to the description too. Wire Sizing Chart: bit.ly/3ztFGNi (Note you can also get this from your wiring suppliers) Tools and materials: bit.ly/WiringToolsAndMaterials101 - Taz.
I thought you were saying enchilada but you were trying to say insulation. I guess keyboard hands are good for getting stripped wire in a crimp. My beat up fingers hardly move much less do a ballet you did. Good job
Hi, I’m currently trying to make my own chassis loom. I have a 70amp relay as a ign relay to power 12 micro relays and with 20 micro relays using a mta modular setup. My question is would an open barrel splice be suitable for me spread the power from the 70a relay which I’ve spaced as a 8.5mm2 cable and the micro relays to a 4.0mm2 cable. Thanks
Check this post out: www.hpacademy.com/technical-articles/course-guide-motorsport-wiring-tools-and-materials-resource/ Will find that and more listed, hope it helps - Taz.
Sorry for the slow reply, missed a lot of comments on this one somehow. Wire Sizing Chart: bit.ly/3ztFGNi (Note you can also get this from your wiring suppliers) Tools and materials: bit.ly/WiringToolsAndMaterials101 - Taz.
Is there a rule of thumb for the max number of wires to join like this? I would think that too many will force the wire into a sharp bend where the insulation ends. I have had quite a few of these fail on standard motorcycle wiring looms, and when I have replaced them (using solder butt connectors normally), I have joined the wires in several separate groups.
Ignore what your OEM does, you can do it better. I have to ask, how many wires do you have that you need to splice and why? I feel like this is probably an issue that you could avoid by looking at the cause and fixing that, however, with some specific information around that we can give a more specific solution - Taz.
@@hpa101 , thank you. Particular case I have is a join in the loom of some older Aprilias where the switched live splits to various circuits. They are joined in one bundle using this type of crimp. One I am retiring for a different engine, and in this occasion I intend to using a larger fuse box with a bus bar to provide the power. Hence avoiding the issue. But others I want to keep pretty standard
Really late to the party here sorry, Element14 is a company we use a lot, but check out the forums there are a number of suppliers listed on there:: www.hpacademy.com/forum/efi-wiring-fundamentals/
@@hpa101 all good brother, I learned the best way TBH. I bought all the correct crimps and just finished the coil and inj harness for my 30/26. I have to say a huge thankyou to your team for the professional standard and easy to understand videos. I'm currently hooking up all my indicators etc to the Nexus, such a great journey and learning so much.
I much rather solder any splice in a harness, I have had crimping come back to bite later! Being inside looming, makes it difficult to find , but it is difficult to solder sometimes depending on location,
They both have their place and when done correctly obviously neither should fail prematurely from poor technique, however the reason why we don't like to use solder is it adds the risk of failure from vibration which is a risk crimping does not add. With that in mind, and the fact it is easier to repeatedly get a perfect crimp compared to learning how to do the perfect solder it sways the pros for crimping over solder in a motorsports application. For finding and adjusting crimps in your loom, you could also take a step back and address why you are redoing or adjusting your looms so often. It might not be avoidable for your application, or there might be something in the way you plan that could be addressed to help you with that. This video touches on this topic if you haven't seen it already, hope you enjoy it: czcams.com/video/L05Ud8NztZY/video.html That doesn't mean you can't solder yourself if you want to, but not being blind to pros and cons of any tool or technique is important whatever you choose as we know some people do get oddly passionate on this topic (that comment is for others that might read this too 😉 ). - Taz
Ahh yes sorry about that, managed to fly under the radar. Note this is something that is easy to get from your supplier too, just as this module is directly from our course material we supply it to help people out. Wire Sizing Chart: bit.ly/3ztFGNi (Note you can also get this from your wiring suppliers) Tools and materials: bit.ly/WiringToolsAndMaterials101 Practical Wiring - Club Level: www.hpacademy.com/courses/practical-harness-construction-club-level Motorsport Wiring Package Deal: www.hpacademy.com/hpa-wiring-starter-package/ - Taz.
You all seem to be under the impression I was against crimps🤔which is hilarious! I was merely commenting saying there would be people arguing against crimps not that I don’t like them😂 I am not new too wiring or crimps, but thank you👏🏼
No No, I respect that opinion but com across so many manufacturers connections that have failed, and its corrosion that affects the joint that solder would prevent
Solder is not immune to corrosion, it is only more resistant. A poorly sealed solder joint will also corrode, so while you might feel that adding the solder is helping avoid one issue, you are still potentially creating another arguably greater risk. Arguably is where things become murky for most, but we're not telling you what to do yourself at all, just trying to arm you with a bit more knowledge. I do understand the logic though and you're not the only one to mention this often. I would take a close look at the connections you see that are failing due to corrosion as I'm sure you will find that the crimp itself isn't actually the problem but rather the sealing around it that is no doubt poor or has failed is. That said, we are talking motorsport wiring, and generally what you're doing here is going to be better than OEM production vehicle wiring when done correctly - Taz.
@@lockya4128 Ended up buying about 5 different tools. This is the best one I found for the price www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B078SQXZSQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks for sharing @Guy, this one still going strong for you? It is a bit of an investment to get setup, but it's always cheaper than paying someone to do it for you (not accounting for time) so long as you do use the right tools and materials to do the job correctly 🤘 - Taz.
@@allenkilpatrick7701 OEM wiring scares me all day.. my misses her ride had a problem where the wires to one of the doors were to short.. and they shaved trough! happy days!
@@anythinggarage9602 You might not of had a failure, but you've introduced more of a chance of having one. Again, you're free to do what you like on your own builds, but there are pros and cons for everything you do. Whether you want to accept it/educate yourself or not that's up to you, but it doesn't change any facts =) There is plenty of material out there on the pros and cons of both soldering and crimping, and also why you shouldn't do both if you're keen to learn more, otherwise happy wiring with what you're already doing but we just advise anyone reading your comment does their homework before blindly soldering AND crimping everything thinking their doing the best job they can - Taz.
DUDE! YOUR VIDEO LIGHTS ARE REFLECTING OFF YOUR GLASSES SOOOOO MUCH IT IS INFURIATING! MOVE THE DANG LIGHTS WAYYYYY OFFFF TOOOOO THE SIDESSS OR CEILING!!!!!!
![Integrating OEM Wiring With Aftermarket Electronics [FREE LESSONS]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/x2kfSPIZth0/mqdefault.jpg)
![Integrating OEM Wiring With Aftermarket Electronics [FREE LESSONS]](/img/tr.png)
![Splicing Into A CAN Bus Network | CAN Bus Communications [FREE LESSON]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/G8OpSIAQqtw/mqdefault.jpg)
![How To Splice | Practical Wiring Demonstration [GOLD WEBINAR]](/img/n.gif)
Your teaching methodology is precise and short without skipping things that shouldn't be skipped... I have zero need for the skills that you're teaching but I'm somehow contemplating paying for the entire course as this is like asmr for me
haha cheers @Ryan! We work hard to make sure things are on point for you guys - Taz.
Well said. I don't do automotive wiring but I do do electronics. I now want to do the wiring for my electronics to this standard lol.
I finally finished my first wiring project. Thanks to your guidance, I made it with OEM results. The setup includes : a fused relay block, +/- busses, and a fused distribution block inside for the switches. I quite enjoyed splicing a single 14awg to 2 18awg power and ground wires respectively.
My customer couldn’t even tell what it was that I had done on his truck. The give away are the covers on the +/- busses, which are cleaner than the rest of his engine bay.
This is one of the very few videos that correctly shows how to parallel splice wires for permanent assembly.
Such a helpful video! This is one of the most overlooked topics when someone is explaining automotive wiring and i think thats a big reason to why its usually the most “hack-jobbed” things when a novice starts wiring
I now feel I can confidentially inchulate my wires. 😁
these videos are phenomenally detailed and straight to the point. i wish i watched this before recently making a harness, i used uninsulated copper butt crimps which did the job but are a little bulkier than open barrels. seeing that trick of pinching the insulation on an open end is fantastic, since i did that in a few spots and in the moment not totally certain if there is a better option but after seeing how you guys do it is a great feeling haha
Even if you didn't manage to find this before starting it's great to know it's given you some extra confidence in what you have done 😎
This is actually a module taken straight from one of our wiring courses and Zac will be stoked to see your comment here mate. By nature, he genuinely loves seeing his work help people. Thanks for taking the time to share your thoughts 🤘 - Taz.
Building a fast car? Get $400 OFF the all inclusive VIP package deal: hpcdmy.co/vipy39
⚡Wiring your car? This practical wiring course will be perfect for you. Now 50% OFF: hpcdmy.co/offery39
Audio so good 😊
Great timing ive got some splicing to do today😂
Great information, I’m installing a microsquirt and both these situations I’ve run into
Glad it helped and hope the install is going well =) - Taz.
During my many years in the wiring industry this type of termination was faided out, we introduced ultra sonic welding the copper wires together this method was far more reliable and uniformly distributed the current through the wires, perhaps a bit to expensive to introduce though, again great work and easy to understand video!
Yes the cost is prohibitive to those wanting to learn and create their own looms at home, and even for some small commercial operations - Taz.
WELCOME TO THE WIDE WONDERFUL WORLD OF WIRES!
excellent video!
Been looking for a guide like this for a while, I wanted to find the best way to splice a couple sensor signal wires/ground wires for a dual ecu setup and now I know how I’m gonna build the harness
Glad you found it and hope you enjoy getting stuck into the harness build 😎 - Taz.
So good. Thank you
Really helpful, thank you.
Installing aux fuel, I’m about to binge watch some videos.
Top notch knowledge.
For an inline 6 injector or ignition harness. would you recommend 1 splice or multiple splices? 1 splice i guess would be less points of failur but multiple splices would be less bulk. Also wouldnt 1 splice be more prone to failure with 7 wire bundle being spliced?
A very informative video. A logic chart would be helpful. Not sure what to use for a 2 wire splice. Why use an open barrel connector? I am guessing they are cheap. And then I have lots of wires that are different sizes. I was going to use terminal blocks for simplicity but they will take up more room. But so simple to swap out parts that go bad. As an electrician I always used wire nuts. But now with stranded wire I need to use something else.
But see a logic chart would help. Say you have an LED with 26 AWG wire. The leads are too short so would you solder to an 18 gauge wire so you can work with it?
What do you guys think about using receptacle Deutsch connectors to supply 12V to multi amount of functions, Ground, Sensor return instead of using these open barrel crimps? Would it function as good ?
Great video.
1 criticism, however - I'm not sure you did the heat shrink right. My mate does it so as the red insulator is brown-to-black and bubbly looking, and the black heat shrink is charred, and normally has to put out a small fire. I have to assume his method is correct, because he normally ends up with less than 1 short-circuit per week, and I didn't hear you bragging about your apparent success-to-failure-rate, so I can only assume it is poor. Also, he usually puts more of the insulator IN the crimp/join, i.e. a much higher "plastic insulator:copper conductor" ratio, than I notice you are doing. ok, 2 criticisms.
I might send him this link actually, I am sure he will get a great laugh from your amateurish wiring shenanegans - prepare to be heavily critiqued!!
That's pretty much the result I get as well, but mine looks cleaner. You see, I bubble the insulation using my soldering iron and end up with a sanded aluminum look on my joints. The heatshrink however, I brush it with the flame of my bic lighter using the fast back and forth method in combination with a twisting motion while held at a 45 degree angle. As soon as the heatshrink stops moving, remove heat so as to not singe the heatshrink. Then go over it for another ten seconds using the bic lighter method again to be sure you got all the shrink out of it.
@A. Melbs Lol. I don't even remember leaving this message. I must've been messing around. I use a heat gun on my heatshrink. However, when I first started soldering, I used to apply heat too long which resulted in melted insulation. I've honed my skills over the years but thanks for the tips. I do occasionally use liquid tape if the heatshrink or insulation gets damaged. It is good for a quick fix.
So is it weird I listen to these as asmr
Hahaha you do you buddy! - Ben
Love it, thanks againx
Inshulation.
Insulation* 🤓 - Taz 👨🏻
Are open barrel splices practical for large gauge wires (ie 4awg battery cable) or is there a different type of splice that is recommended for much larger wires?
does this work with size 8 wire right
When using the heat shrink across the 4/5 wire splice, won't it be vulnerable to water etc in the middle of the 4 wires when the SCL only secures the outside of the wires?
Is this an issue you have had or are you just thinking aloud? Let us know and I'll see what Zac can recommend - Taz.
This is a big issue, The center path is always the failure point, in Mobil equipment
corrosion will cause failure.
Could this be mitigated with a coating like vaseline/dielectric or liquid thread tape? Possibly contained with a larger sized outer heat shrink. OR a waterproof buss bar (1 in, multiple out)?
@@hpa101 I was just thinking out loud - I since moved ahead working with my harness, and with the multi-wire splices, I heated one to create a "funnel" then filled with a liquid gasket, and then heated the shrink tube entirely, and finished off wiping off the excess gasket that was pressed out.
Where can you get these type of open barrel butt splices like this style that are tin plated copper? All I can find are brass, which I'd never use. Or just plane copper. Which if you use plane copper, you'd really need to put on adhesive heat shrink tubing to help keep the copper from turning green, which could affect the connection if the copper turns green where they touch.
you mention a link to a chart for CMA to AWG sizing, but it's not here. Where would I find this?
Ahh yes sorry about that, managed to fly under the radar. Note this is something that is easy to get from your supplier too, just as this module is directly from our course material we supply it to help people out.
Wire Sizing Chart: bit.ly/3ztFGNi
(Note you can also get this from your wiring suppliers)
Tools and materials: bit.ly/WiringToolsAndMaterials101
Practical Wiring - Club Level: www.hpacademy.com/courses/practical-harness-construction-club-level
Motorsport Wiring Package Deal: www.hpacademy.com/hpa-wiring-starter-package/ - Taz.
What are your thoughts on using connectors that are connected through one end? The male terminal or contact would all be connected. So the female you insert will make a connection to them all. Not sure if that makes sense
Why use brass open barrel splice connectors instead of copper or tin plated copper?
What tool you are using as a crimper please for this application?
Wire Sizing Chart: bit.ly/3ztFGNi
(Note you can also get this from your wiring suppliers)
Tools and materials: bit.ly/WiringToolsAndMaterials101
Practical Wiring - Club Level: www.hpacademy.com/courses/practical-harness-construction-club-level
Motorsport Wiring Package Deal: www.hpacademy.com/hpa-wiring-starter-package/ - Taz.
In Video you stated tool number and chart for number of wires would be in description. Can you add that when you have a moment. thanks
You either have to watch the live webinar or purchase the course to receive those. But since I have done, here it is:
www.hpacademy.com/assets/33268f057a/Wiring-Webinar-Materials.pdf?
www.hpacademy.com/assets/c08f3ce35e/Wiring-Webinar-Tools.pdf?
You can google for the chart tp find the CMA of the wire you are using. Sorry i don't have it at hand.
@@gabrielnicolau747 Cheers for those links Gabriel, legend
Sorry the comments here flew under the radar, Gabriel is a legend, thank you! I've added them to the description too.
Wire Sizing Chart: bit.ly/3ztFGNi
(Note you can also get this from your wiring suppliers)
Tools and materials: bit.ly/WiringToolsAndMaterials101 - Taz.
I thought you were saying enchilada but you were trying to say insulation. I guess keyboard hands are good for getting stripped wire in a crimp. My beat up fingers hardly move much less do a ballet you did. Good job
Yes, Andre also makes fitting circlips look frustratingly/deceptively easy too compared to my blunt meat stick (aka finger) co-ordination 😂 - Taz.
I know it's silly, but does anyone know the exact model of the yellow pliers being used? I've been looking for those exact ones.
Hi, I’m currently trying to make my own chassis loom. I have a 70amp relay as a ign relay to power 12 micro relays and with 20 micro relays using a mta modular setup. My question is would an open barrel splice be suitable for me spread the power from the 70a relay which I’ve spaced as a 8.5mm2 cable and the micro relays to a 4.0mm2 cable. Thanks
What's better for the Injector 12v wire...10 or 12gauge?
Would be nice to have a link to the brand of brass barrel splice connectors being used.
Check this post out: www.hpacademy.com/technical-articles/course-guide-motorsport-wiring-tools-and-materials-resource/
Will find that and more listed, hope it helps - Taz.
@@hpa101 Thank you.
@@hpa101 I'd like to find open barrel butt connectors that are tin plated. I see BMW has some, but seem to be pricey.
Get in touch with some places on the list linked above. If someone doesn't stock them they might know who does - Taz.
Where do you buy these open barrel crimps?? o.O
Here is a good list of motorsport wiring suppliers. www.hpacademy.com/forum/efi-wiring-fundamentals/show/wiring-and-accessories-suppliers-list
What crimper was used?
What crimping tool are you using herre?
Sorry for the slow reply, missed a lot of comments on this one somehow.
Wire Sizing Chart: bit.ly/3ztFGNi
(Note you can also get this from your wiring suppliers)
Tools and materials: bit.ly/WiringToolsAndMaterials101 - Taz.
Can you share what's the part number for wire crimping tools ?
Very much appreciated.
This article here might help you Jorge -www.hpacademy.com/technical-articles/crimping-on-a-budget-tools-and-materials/ - Taz.
Is there a rule of thumb for the max number of wires to join like this? I would think that too many will force the wire into a sharp bend where the insulation ends. I have had quite a few of these fail on standard motorcycle wiring looms, and when I have replaced them (using solder butt connectors normally), I have joined the wires in several separate groups.
Ignore what your OEM does, you can do it better.
I have to ask, how many wires do you have that you need to splice and why? I feel like this is probably an issue that you could avoid by looking at the cause and fixing that, however, with some specific information around that we can give a more specific solution - Taz.
@@hpa101 , thank you.
Particular case I have is a join in the loom of some older Aprilias where the switched live splits to various circuits. They are joined in one bundle using this type of crimp.
One I am retiring for a different engine, and in this occasion I intend to using a larger fuse box with a bus bar to provide the power. Hence avoiding the issue. But others I want to keep pretty standard
where's the link to the forum?
hi Guys, Looking on the RS Component site, limited barrel splices, can you recommend dealer for what is required here please?
Really late to the party here sorry, Element14 is a company we use a lot, but check out the forums there are a number of suppliers listed on there:: www.hpacademy.com/forum/efi-wiring-fundamentals/
@@hpa101 thanks guys.
@@SmitherinesRacing no worries, sorry again for being a casual 8 months late, I missed a ton of comments/questions on this video somehow 😅- Taz.
@@hpa101 all good brother, I learned the best way TBH. I bought all the correct crimps and just finished the coil and inj harness for my 30/26. I have to say a huge thankyou to your team for the professional standard and easy to understand videos. I'm currently hooking up all my indicators etc to the Nexus, such a great journey and learning so much.
My build/car is starting to get attention worldwide, and its blowing my mind haha
I much rather solder any splice in a harness, I have had crimping come back to bite later! Being inside looming, makes it difficult to find , but it is difficult to solder sometimes depending on location,
They both have their place and when done correctly obviously neither should fail prematurely from poor technique, however the reason why we don't like to use solder is it adds the risk of failure from vibration which is a risk crimping does not add.
With that in mind, and the fact it is easier to repeatedly get a perfect crimp compared to learning how to do the perfect solder it sways the pros for crimping over solder in a motorsports application.
For finding and adjusting crimps in your loom, you could also take a step back and address why you are redoing or adjusting your looms so often. It might not be avoidable for your application, or there might be something in the way you plan that could be addressed to help you with that. This video touches on this topic if you haven't seen it already, hope you enjoy it: czcams.com/video/L05Ud8NztZY/video.html
That doesn't mean you can't solder yourself if you want to, but not being blind to pros and cons of any tool or technique is important whatever you choose as we know some people do get oddly passionate on this topic (that comment is for others that might read this too 😉 ). - Taz
Need three hands sometimes with those damn crimps!!!!
Indeed! I'd be even happier with four haha - Taz.
I see no table for the CMA of certain wire sizes.
Ahh yes sorry about that, managed to fly under the radar. Note this is something that is easy to get from your supplier too, just as this module is directly from our course material we supply it to help people out.
Wire Sizing Chart: bit.ly/3ztFGNi
(Note you can also get this from your wiring suppliers)
Tools and materials: bit.ly/WiringToolsAndMaterials101
Practical Wiring - Club Level: www.hpacademy.com/courses/practical-harness-construction-club-level
Motorsport Wiring Package Deal: www.hpacademy.com/hpa-wiring-starter-package/ - Taz.
@@hpa101 thank you
Waiting on the splice vs solder arguments....🤣🍿
I will use a crimp splice then solder and heat shrink
These were (are?) used in factory wiring looms, at least from what I've seen of some 90s Japanese cars
You all seem to be under the impression I was against crimps🤔which is hilarious!
I was merely commenting saying there would be people arguing against crimps not that I don’t like them😂
I am not new too wiring or crimps, but thank you👏🏼
Think you just read that into the responses, no one mentioned it
Wow, where can I find this? Part #
Wire Sizing Chart: bit.ly/3ztFGNi
(Note you can also get this from your wiring suppliers)
Tools and materials: bit.ly/WiringToolsAndMaterials101
sorry, i want a proper electrical connection, suggest solder after crimp, so mechanical and electrical are properly sorted
You are free to do this, but really if you feel the need to do both you're either doing one or both techniques incorrectly - Taz.
No No, I respect that opinion but com across so many manufacturers connections that have failed, and its corrosion that affects the joint that solder would prevent
Solder is not immune to corrosion, it is only more resistant. A poorly sealed solder joint will also corrode, so while you might feel that adding the solder is helping avoid one issue, you are still potentially creating another arguably greater risk. Arguably is where things become murky for most, but we're not telling you what to do yourself at all, just trying to arm you with a bit more knowledge.
I do understand the logic though and you're not the only one to mention this often. I would take a close look at the connections you see that are failing due to corrosion as I'm sure you will find that the crimp itself isn't actually the problem but rather the sealing around it that is no doubt poor or has failed is.
That said, we are talking motorsport wiring, and generally what you're doing here is going to be better than OEM production vehicle wiring when done correctly - Taz.
3:11 £100 for those crimping tools... has anyone managed to find a cheaper alternative for these crimps? Otherwise its a really useful video.
try amazon or ebay man
@@lockya4128 Ended up buying about 5 different tools. This is the best one I found for the price www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B078SQXZSQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks for sharing @Guy, this one still going strong for you? It is a bit of an investment to get setup, but it's always cheaper than paying someone to do it for you (not accounting for time) so long as you do use the right tools and materials to do the job correctly 🤘 - Taz.
waay back when i was in school i've been told so often that splicing is bad i still feel guilty when i do it xD
I do this pretty much exact technique often, never had any issues.
@@allenkilpatrick7701 i never experienced any issues... or the fires or deaths they warned me for xD
What scares me is the little plastic colored wire crimps that some manufacturers recommend using!
@@allenkilpatrick7701 OEM wiring scares me all day.. my misses her ride had a problem where the wires to one of the doors were to short.. and they shaved trough! happy days!
I have some horror stories for sure. Like the wire insulation being soy based. Basically a hot meal
Optical inspection... 🤣🤣🤣
7:42 I bite my fingernails
I'd take it one step further and solder it after crimping then heat shrink it
You can do what suits you best, but we 100% so not advise soldering your crimp joins - Taz
Can advise what you want but I've never had a failure
@@anythinggarage9602 You might not of had a failure, but you've introduced more of a chance of having one. Again, you're free to do what you like on your own builds, but there are pros and cons for everything you do. Whether you want to accept it/educate yourself or not that's up to you, but it doesn't change any facts =)
There is plenty of material out there on the pros and cons of both soldering and crimping, and also why you shouldn't do both if you're keen to learn more, otherwise happy wiring with what you're already doing but we just advise anyone reading your comment does their homework before blindly soldering AND crimping everything thinking their doing the best job they can - Taz.
@@anythinggarage9602 Space industry use crimping and soldering, so you are right to do so.
DUDE! YOUR VIDEO LIGHTS ARE REFLECTING OFF YOUR GLASSES SOOOOO MUCH IT IS INFURIATING! MOVE THE DANG LIGHTS WAYYYYY OFFFF TOOOOO THE SIDESSS OR CEILING!!!!!!
We're just going to steal his glasses and blind him instead, job done 😅 - Taz.