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Handling and cutting sheet goods on sliding tablesaw
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- čas přidán 8. 07. 2021
- This video shows how I load, handle, and cut double sided melamine PB core on the sliding table saw for a cabinet project. The shop cart used in this video is from Shop Carts USA: www.shopcartsu... The clamps used in this video are Airtight Clamps: mac-campshure....
Martin very wonderful peace of equipment. Cheers.
When bump cutting against the rip fence you should slide the fence behind the blade to avoid kick back
Thanks Doug. You are correct. Steve
I knew I should have bought lottery tickets 2-3 weeks ago!
That is a dream machine Steve. 😊
I’m always impressed by your tools/shop and your skill level. Good video as always.
Ron
Thanks Ron.
you sure have some nice accessories for your saw.
Welp, I am one up on you, Steve. I finally got around to making an attachment to fit on my home made Fitz and Fran jig. You just slide the small tail stock and drive unit in to the t-tracks. I can now turn dowels/cones. I then use my DeWalt cordless drill to spin the wood. It works great!
Cool! You need to make a video and post it. Steve
Steve,you need a compressed air coiled dongle hanging down over/near the heads-up display that you can use to clear the sawdust that would interfere with the bump-stop rip fence. No need to go around the slider to clear chips with a broom - just spray chips toward a new dust extractor pickup sweep at saw height near the bracket that holds up the saw guard.
Hi David. I was thinking about that. Steve
Great idea I am going to do this when I build my clamping system.
I thought with a tablesaw one of the fundamental rules was to only use one fence at a time to prevent any chance of material binding. Is this not the case?
I find that to be generally the case and I usually pull the rip fence back for smaller pieces especially crosscutting hardwoods. In this case, I did not do so as the piece was so large that it could not twist between the blade and the fence causing binding (especially with rip fence toe out).
Hi steve, just curious why you are using the rip fence, and then dangerously reaching across the saw blade to push the off cut out of the way, I know you are doing repetitious cuts just can’t help thinking it would be easier to slide your rip fence back in front of the saw-blade, Thanks for sharing the video love your work
Hi Carlo. I wouldn't be doing this if the blade guard was not in place and IMO, the action was safe for me with my body parts well protected. I have found for long reference surfaces, the toe out on the rip fence can be problematic and result in slightly tapered workpieces when using the fence as a stop. That is why I made those cuts in that manner. Later in the video, I did pull the fence back as a stop for the narrower shelf pieces. Steve
@@extremewoodworker Suggestion: retract the rip fence extrusion when using it as a bump stop such that it doesn’t overlap with the saw blade. That way the off-cut it is not trapped between the blade and fence, eliminating the possibility of a nasty kickback or the need to reach-around to push the off-cut through.
I’ve been curious about the best practice for this for years. I’ve spent many hours making cabinets with a slider, and for me the most accurate way to rip the sheet- when I’m cutting cabinet sides for example, is to use the rip fence exactly like I would a standard tablesaw (such as a sawstop). I just have the added benefit of letting the sheet ride along with the wagon of the slider. I don’t use the rip fence and crosscut fence at the same time, it’s one or the other. If I have more material on the right side of the blade then on the wagon I will support it with an indeed roller.
I pull the fence back behind the blade only to crosscuts the parts, after they are all ripped to width.
Relying on the crosscut fence/slider to make accurate rips seems impossible. And if you’ve ever had to break down plywood on a cabinet saw it really doesn’t feel that foreign or dangerous.
@@David_Best This is how it should be done! I learned this right away with mine, I ended up with corn in my shorts
Steve - loving your videos.
Could I ask for a recommendation on saw blades as a new sliding table saw owner? I cut ply & mdf sheets. As well as ripping softwood and hardwood. And I want to cross-cut small pieces using my slider? I currently have 1 general purpose blade that came with my £4k Sliding saw here in the UK. (Which has a scoring blade)
I wonder if I should have 1 good quality ripping blade, 1 blade for ply/mdf & a fine blade for cross-cutting.
I'd love to hear your thoughts?
Hi Parafinn. Agreed the general purpose blades leave a lot to be desired. For sheet goods and laminates, my favorite is the Felder Silent Power 250mm 60 tooth blade. For ripping, my go to blades are the 300 or 315mm diameter Felder or Leuco 28 tooth. For fine crosscutting, the 350/356mm diameter Leuco, Tenyru, or Felder 80-100 tooth blades are what I usually pick up. I haven't used them all but I haven't found any stinkers in any of these makes. I now avoid the high angle grind blades as these tend to dull relatively quickly. Steve
Good show Steve. Love it. Did you use your "scoring" saw to stop tear-out at the bottom of the melamine?
For what it's worth, I score the bottom of the melamine by sawing backwards first. IE; raise the saw blade only 1/8" high. Then move the melamine from back to front. Then raise the saw to cut through the regular way. Yes, it takes a second step. But it works like a charm.
One great thing is: No need to adjust the scoring blade.
Hi Pat. Yes, I used the scoring on every cut. The video shows the start of the main motor followed by the scoring motor. When the scoring motor starts, the blade pops up automatically via an air actuator. The scoring cut is set to 0.1 mm wider and is centered on the main blade kerf. This is a one time adjustment until the scoring blade is sharpened which obviously changes dimensions slightly. Steve
New to you, but already impressed. What blade are you using to cut the melamine boards?
Hi Chris. The blade I was using was a Felder Silent Power item 03.1.040. It is a 250mm diameter 60 tooth blade. Checking the Felder site, it looks like they have changed and the closest to what I have is this: www.felder-group.com/en-us/shop/hollow-roof-tooth-saw-blades-sc91867/hw-roof-hollow-tooth-saw-blade-silent-power-silver-sp91872
Steve
QUESTION: I am looking at buying a sliding panel saw like yours. How close to the wall can I have the table sit on the far right side?
Hi MGF. I have taken a few measurements on my saw. There are several protusions that extend beyond the edge of the table on the right (the fence guide and the overhead arm). The limiting item is the fence guide which extends 10" beyond the edge of the table. This will only give partial door opening for access to the saw cabinet for speed changes but, it is sufficient for adequate access. To get full door opening, I suggest an additional 4" be added. These measurements were taken on a 2007 model T60C so verify with Martin that these still apply. Hope this helps. Steve
Hi, where can I find the 2x bar support/stabilizer attachments?
These were purchased from Martin USA. Steve
Hi Steve, during your cross-cutting process for cutting the shelves to length, was that material only touching two points of contact on your cross cut fence as opposed to the whole edge of the sheet touching the whole length of the cross cut fence? Thx
Yes - two points of contact are the only option on my cross cut fence. Steve
@@extremewoodworker interesting, okay. Thank You Steve. I’m just now setting up my new Felder K 700 S. Hopefully take it for test run this weekend. Appreciate all the videos you’ve made, helps a ton.
Hello Steve
Can you show me how to adjust the width by handwheel on your Martin rip fence to a tenth of a millimeter ?!
Hi Marc, I just look at the digital display for fence position while turning the handwheel. The digital display resolution is 0.1 mm.
You don’t no pain until you’ve received a melamine cut
A definite truism that is worse than a paper cut. When the driver delivered the material, I was noticing red smears on the melamine. Even though he had a pair of gloves in the truck, they were not worn because he couldn't get a grip on the material. I gave him a pair of coated gloves. Steve
Beautiful saw love those Martin's unfortunley i dont have one of those, I Noticed you added another guide when yopu are cutting narrow long pcs parallel what was that ? this is where i have issue's
@@extremewoodworker
Steve, you and the driver need to get a couple of Grabbo’s.
Look up Grabbo on Izzy Swan’s channel…
Ron
@@ronh9384 Hi Ron. I learn something everyday. I haven't heard of the Grabbo. Now if they only made an anti-gravity version - lol. Steve
What model is that parallel fence? Are those Martin supports or a 3rd party? I’ve got a SCM Nova 400, so finding options is a pain.
Hi Matthew. Both the tables and the parallel fence are Martin. If SCM doesn't offer options, you may want to check out Lamb Tool Works: lambtoolworks.com/parallel-fences Steve
I'm curious what people use for supports on sliding table saws if the supports aren't readily available for a person's slider.