I love this idea and will be testing it for low angle rappels. So often rope management is a pain on multi pitch low angle rappels. You cannot throw the rope down and have to do lap coils and saddle bags. I think this will solve that problem.
In France, for rappels we have often Fixe vertical anchors with a chain and a ring on the bottom bolt. I imagine I could use a munter on the top bolt and pass through the ring. But I never understood the real speed benefit of lowering except when the second downclimbs and so no need to unrope.
The speed gain is situational and most likely only gained when there is one or two raps in series… if it’s more than that, then I’d just do the traditional procedure. In regards to your question, I’m not sure if I’d hang something on a hanger as you described. In this case, the ring is already a master point so you could hang it off the ring directly and loop it through.
Thanks, used this on saturday on 2 short rappels with good communication on a ridge. Excellent: no need to untie the second, no twists without the need to have parallele strands, safe feeling with the backup. Game changer: before i disliked lowering before and now i see when to use it.
I think the main advantage is you can have one end of it clipped with a carabiner to your belay loop the whole time, so basically no risk of dropping it. Not the case with the other two.
This could work in easy rap routes when climbers are similar weights. For complicated raps or where the rope will be exposed to some edges, better to do one at a time and distribute weight to two ropes.
I love this idea and will be testing it for low angle rappels. So often rope management is a pain on multi pitch low angle rappels. You cannot throw the rope down and have to do lap coils and saddle bags. I think this will solve that problem.
Could you do a video on properly dressing knots like the figure 8 follow through?
czcams.com/video/PJkCaUUhqgs/video.html
In France, for rappels we have often Fixe vertical anchors with a chain and a ring on the bottom bolt. I imagine I could use a munter on the top bolt and pass through the ring. But I never understood the real speed benefit of lowering except when the second downclimbs and so no need to unrope.
The speed gain is situational and most likely only gained when there is one or two raps in series… if it’s more than that, then I’d just do the traditional procedure. In regards to your question, I’m not sure if I’d hang something on a hanger as you described. In this case, the ring is already a master point so you could hang it off the ring directly and loop it through.
Thanks, used this on saturday on 2 short rappels with good communication on a ridge. Excellent: no need to untie the second, no twists without the need to have parallele strands, safe feeling with the backup. Game changer: before i disliked lowering before and now i see when to use it.
Hi Jason, is there a reason to choose auto block over klemheist or prussic?
I think the main advantage is you can have one end of it clipped with a carabiner to your belay loop the whole time, so basically no risk of dropping it. Not the case with the other two.
Why don't you just use the belay device on your harness to lower the climber? Just like lowering someone after reaching the top of a climb
This would weight the rings instead of the belay device and cause excessive and unnecessary wear to the rings
Can the rope get stuck in the atc in this configuration?
I’m not sure what you mean, but you have just as much likelihood to get it stuck in this method as in lowering off your harness in the gym.
Hey Johnnie!
guaranteed to twist your rope a lot
I haven’t experienced that… the rope is all in a line so shouldn’t twist unless the rings are not aligned
Horrible 8, I doesn’t matter if it’s not dressed properly for that application but don’t do a video if you don’t dress it.
Who knows what else is unsafe shown in the video if a simple 8 looks bad..
Why not just simul-rappel?
This could work in easy rap routes when climbers are similar weights. For complicated raps or where the rope will be exposed to some edges, better to do one at a time and distribute weight to two ropes.