Hollow Chisel Mortiser Tips and Tricks
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- čas přidán 23. 07. 2024
- Hollow Chisel Mortiser Tips and Tricks. Rob Cosman shows you all his tips and tricks for selecting, sharpening, and using a hollow chisel mortiser. Before you buy one make sure you what this video.
00:00 Overview
02:58 Do You Need One?
03:59 What to Look For
07:25 How to Use a Mortiser
22:41 How to Sharpen the Chisels
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Check out how to hand cut a mortise and tenon video here: czcams.com/video/O-j__IVfbeY/video.html
Ever wonder why Rob is so good at this. He has three hands. Did you see that at about 10:57 minutes. Wow!
I keep it behind my back most of the time!
The joke goes: only real men drive cabs in Rome. They need one hand to shift gear, and the other to pinch the butt of pretty girls. What to they steer with? Like I said, only real men can do it!
A place I worked many years ago had a 1952 JD model 60 tractor. Took three hands and both feet to operate that thing. Manual spark advance and throttle both on the steering column, one left and one right. Split brakes, one on each side of the transmission so both feet are busy. Straight cut gears and a hand operated clutch so if you want to work in third gear that's where you start. Oh and don't forget to steer once in a while. :-)
I first used a mortiser at BCIT. It was a Wadkins-Bursgreen from 1950. It was a huge machine. I saw
Norm Abrams use the same Delta machine on the New Yankee Workshop and knew that was the one for me. I was able to purchase a used one from a worker who had upgraded for $100. Great deal for me because I love Mission style pieces and make kitchen cabs with Shaker doors. I also noted that you are the first CZcamsr that correctly makes the cuts in the correct sequence. Keep up the great work!
Excellent video explaining some things you won't find in the instructions.
A couple of things I discovered from using it. Buy good quality chisels and bits. The chisels supplied with the unit had a very short life. I then bought a set from Japan that has worked perfectly for the last six months.
Use an old wax candle to rub some wax on the outside of the chisel.
Any time I complain about having too big a project, I'm going to remind myself that Rob made 200 chairs. That's crazy lol.
So what I dindt say is I tried doing them all by hand. After the 5th chair I bought the mortiser
Younger rob thought he was invincible lol
I have that exact same mortiser, but mines only 20 years old ! Lol
Hi Rob, very informative video. Just purchased a similar mortiser so I appreciate you walking me through the set up and use. I was reading my manual and may have found a solution to the “run-out” issue you show at 21:30. If you position the chip ejection slot facing the left or right of the machine, the auger won’t be able to contact the mortise, and thus won’t create the rounding pattern. If the ejection slot faces front or backwards, you can get that ugly rounding pattern on the side of the mortise the ejection slot is facing. Hope this makes sense. Thanks again for the vid!
Balanced plunging! Rob, the Lord bless you and keep you for putting this on record for good and all. If I only had a buck for every shopmate I’ve had to argue with about that! Folks think it is so much more time efficient to start at one end and keep munching until you slam that 300 lb table into the stop.
One dear friend thought he could placate me by wrapping the stop in a cushion of rubber. Sheesh!
Did they ever come to their senses?
Excellent instructions! I have the exact same mortiser purchased new in the early 1990s, so same vintage. I agree with everything you described about the features and limitations. Additionally, I dislike the hardened steel set screw that bites into the chisel shaft so I replaced mine with a brass screw. Also, I find the spring-loaded pin on the chuck key to be really annoying when you are tightening the chuck. I imagine that the spring pin is a surreptitious safety feature to prevent starting the mortiser with the chuck key installed. (Likely lawyer inspired 😁) …. Notably, there is a significant difference in quality of available chisel assemblies. Cheap ones are usually trash, but early on, it was all I could afford. After discovering that, I later purchased some decent chisels from Fisch. They are nice but do need some grooming to sharpen and especially hone the vertical sides to allow them to slide more easily through the wood fibers. Many thanks!!
I'm a carpenter, I really like my job, I would love to have complete tools like you,,,,,, good job sir👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks Rob! I've had the mortiser for 25 years. Your tip about using the magnet and steel rule got me to go to Rockler's this morning.
I used them to align the bit to the fence and have obtained the best cuts yet!
PS
Your sharpening instruction really helped me make razor sharp chisel sides and renew the sharpness of the proper places on the drill.
Great guide and very thorough. All those details one would never have guessed but needs to know are one more proof that there is no perfect tool out there and are indispensable aid as you've got to work with what you you've got.
Such great info. Thanks kindly for sharing!
What a great teacher! Thank you.
Thank you. Very well explained. I’ve never used a mortiser and I’m considering buying a mortiser. You explained that the key, like any woodworking techniques, is taking time to make sure to do proper set up is essential
This is absolutely great educational material. Thanks so much for sharing!
Thanks so much Rob. Great video.
Absolutely fantastic overview. It’s nice to learn from someone with a true understanding of the tool and physics of its operation.
Thanks Rob! Appreciate the sharpening tips for bits!
thanks for watching
As usual, taking the time for proper tool set-up is well worth it, as perfectly illustrated by this video. This mortiser is sitting in my shop, idle. I've been inspired to put it to work thanks to your generous and timely upload. Thank you, Rob!
Glad it was useful for you. Really appreciate you commenting
Thanks for the lesson Rob and team. I enjoy the mix of hand and power tool videos you produce. I find the use of power tools to prep the material and take care of the repetitive tasks makes the hand work more enjoyable.
Its called hybrid woodworking, a mix of power and hand tools. We are the same...I agree completely
I bought the same model mortiser second-hand a few years back and have gotten some decent use from it, and now hopefully will get even better use. Thanks for the tips.
Great to hear!
Excellent all-encompassing tutorial - nicely done 🙌
Every video Rob post makes us proud and privileged that we are all learning something new every day. Thanks Rob for introducing me to woodworking and discovering a phenomenal skill and hobby. You and Paul S. are true gems!!
Thanks….we want to keep the craft alive
Great way to square up the chisel! Brilliant.
You really need a long straight edge or it just wont square up accurately
Pura vida Rob Thanks for sharing this mortising review
Really nice instructional video on using the mortiser. I just got a new mortiser delivered late today. It’s still in the box. Tomorrow I’ll assemble the machine and follow your teaching. Thanks so much. Just subscribed too!
Have an Oliver, life saver doing chairs and tables. Your sharpening tips are well appreciated.
Olivers are AWESOME
Thanks for the tips Rob. This saved me a good bit of time. I saw this video a long time ago and a quick Google search brought me right back to it.
Some great tips on using and setting up a Hollow Chisel Morticer .The sections relating to accurate parallel alignment of the chisel sides to the fence and the strategy/order for removing the waste material to ensure straight sides to the mortice were particularly informative and useful. The close up video shots assisted ones appreciation of these subtle but important points. Many thanks to ALL at Cosman HQ - your passion for promoting all things related to wood is much appreciated.
Thnaks for watching and commenting
😊
Uh jj
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Excellent video, really informative! Thanks a lot
Very good tutorial, thanks for sharing 🫵🏼🔆🔆🔆👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Great tutorial
Thanks for the ruler trick for the alignment. Last year I bought a 3/4 hp table top mortiser. Got an ok alignment when I used it but wanted it better. This trick will definitely help. Also, the trick to use the center point of the drill bit was something I hadn't thought of as well. Thank you. This video is full of all kinds of useful info that I haven't seen discussed anywhere else.
Glad it was helpful and thanks for commenting
Thanks Rob! Always like your stuff. Funny, when i started woodworking i jumped into a set of players billiards chairs well before i made my first cutting board. No clue what I was thinking. A friend sold me his mortising machine and it made a world of difference. I learned a lot about what you just talked about here on my own and wish i had this video to save me time!
Hopefully this can help others so they dont have to learn from the school of lots of mistakes like you and I learned
yesss it did help. i have decided to go with the jet mortiser. thanks so muchh for the infooooo
Once again a tutorial worth watching. I always learn something on all your videos.
Thanks for watching and commenting
never get enough watcing your videos, allways a pleasure
thanks a lot and whish you all the best 🙌👍👏
I have the same exact one (well, a Type-2 w/1,750 rpm motor) which I purchased in 1996. Had a bit of a problem with the hold down shaft's "Flat Spot" not being parallel but managed to "Adjust" it accordingly..Guess I've been lucky as I've managed to hardly score the inner face of the hollow chisels at all and, just like you, have only had to do the lightest touch up to the outer faces. Great tip on sharpening the bits, they're a lot like auger bits. Just amazed my self by going to the file cabinet and finding I still have the original instruction booklet. When I bought it I bought an after market brand of hollow chisels that included a ¾" chisel & bit [page 17 - "Using bite with extra long shanks"] and have found it handy for outdoor projects like nominal 5'x4'x3' compost bins out of impregnated 4"x4"'s covered with either ½" wire mesh, or chicken/"Poultry" wire for leaves, etc.. I wouldn't try that with hardwood though.
Great video. Thanks for a refresher course. Gonna knock the dust off mine and put it to work.
Once again on point mate...such a handy, inexpensive tool that can speed things up for even the smallest workshop...thanks for sharing mate.
Thnaks for watching and commenting
Finally, someone actually explains how to use a mortise machine beside just saying put the wood in here and pull the handle. GREAT video ! Thank You !~
I own the same model. I added a machinist vise to the base which gives me precise positioning left to right and front to back. Foot over 20 years it has worked great.
Good tip
I own this exact model and I love it. Matter of fact I used it last weekend for morticing 2x2 legs to accept tenoned aprons on a table. I’ve even built a fixture for my table saw to cut the tenon cheeks.
Its a great little mortiser
I have had the General Int. 75-050 (non-tilting) for about 10 years and love it :) I'm in the USA but really like alot of General & Grizzly (Canadian) tools.
Thanks for sharing those tips, and the make!
You are so welcome!
Nice tool I may need one in time
good timing, was planing on buying one tomorrow. really helpful
I knew that which is why I published this video now !!!!!!!!😂
I also have owned this exact model for 12 or 14 years. When I made our bed headboard and footboard, I used it to make over 70 mortises for the slats in each. Thanks for the good setup tips, Rob.
Thanks for watching and commenting
I too, have the same exact one (well, a Type-2) which I purchased in 1996.
I have the same one. It works great.
I've had the Rikon 34-260 for about 3 years now. I use it almost daily and have no complaints.
Great video as usual.
Thanks so much for watching and commenting
I use a large (old) commercial mortising machine at work making antique replica furniture. We make 3/8" x 1-1/8" d mortises for every joint, but our finished material is almost always 7/8" thick - sometimes 1".
I just bought a used Jet like your delta for $150 for my personal shop. This video has been a great asset for me to get it tuned up. Thanks from Kentucky!
Glad you liked it. Appreciate the comment
I have the same machine, though i rarely use it because I'm primarily a carver. I have been wanting to devise a jig for doing angled mortises.
Great sharpening tips. Thanks!
Thanks Rob. You’re the first guy that I’ve seen to show how to set up a Mortimer. I’ve got the Delta version that fits my drill press and always had trouble with squealing. Now I know why.
Glad I was able to help. How do you like your drill press version?
@@RobCosmanWoodworking not the easiest thing to use. I should have spent more money and got the machine
After watching your video I have confidence I too can sharper the mortising hardware.
Thanks for another lesson, I always wondered about this tool. Recall seeing Norm use it in his shop, long ago 😀
Thanks for watching!
I bought that mortiser 20 years ago on sale for $139.00. I have no clue on how many times I've used it but it's a staple in my shop. I had to replace the capacitor on it about 5 years ago. No one to be found in the US. Ordered one from Amazon that was shipped out of China that took a month to get. Other than that, it's a working machine for me. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for sharing. I just got one a week ago.
I have that mortiser. I replaced the hex screws with ones that have plastic knobs on the end so I don’t have to keep reaching for the hex wrenches. It makes it much more convenient to make adjustments.
Wow, Mr Cosman, another great ruler trick. Mine has sliding table, and I usually just push fence forward to push chisel then check with a square. Your ruler trick is so much accurate and convenient. You can buy a cone shaped diamond honing bit to sharpen the inside of the hollow chisel. Very useful.
Mine is Salida SK19CT, date 03/01. Not sure which is month since it was made in TW. 750W motor at 1720RPM. I bought it used with no accessories. I damaged the bushing where chisel goes into and my friend cut 2 bushings for me. One for 3/4” chisel shanks and one for 5/8” since The chisel I bought have the wrong size shank. There is a little bit of run out on my spindle, but not enough to cause any real problem. Hardest material I cut so far I think is African Mahogany with a 1/2” bit. Mine was pretty cheap. I have seen a new Delta model used for $200-300. Rikon has a few models. Wen has a cheap one that can probably handle most hobby woodworker’s tasks. Tilt head is another good feature if you do a lot of angled mortises. For me, I just use hand tools to do the tapered portion.
Next time when I use mine, I’ll definite use your ruler trick.
Glad I gave you a useful tip. Thanks for watching and commenting
I have had that exact Delta model for about 30 years its never let me down.
Always appreciate the knowledge you share , Great tutorial Rob, I recently purchased a second hand mortiser identical to yours accept it is a craftex brand, unfortunately it never came with a instruction Manuel or the chisel , Rob could you point me in the right direction for a decent set of chisels, as I am positive your mortiser is identical to mine, right down to hp, rpm and even the colour, All but the brand name, Thank you Rob , and keep up the great work.
Great setup tips.
I have a small JET morticer that also takes a Jacob's chuck so can be used as a small drill press, probably use this machine more than anything. If you're looking at buying one of these machines for a small workshop see if you can get a chuck accessory - you won't regret it.
Thanks for sharing your tip
This press has worked like a charm for my projects czcams.com/users/postUgkxajoEbapTfqWaadnqb04h6U576yxXp-FE . I didn't even secure it to my table top, mainly due to the fact that I was using a 15 lbs drill vise. It's not flimsy at all as to what others have claimed it to be. Make sure the locking nuts and levers are secured and there won't be any issues with light pressure and patience. I was able to drill through aluminum, plastic, and steel (steel took a while) with no problems at all. Yeah it took a little longer than a regular drill press, but I don't have the space OR the money for one.The instruction manual was worthless, but luckily assembling the press was intuitive. However, the manual would be good for ordering replacement parts if needed. There is a nice breakdown of the parts that are included in the kit. Before ordering, make sure it is compatible with your unit, it is clearly stated what models the press is compatible with.This was an excellent purchase for $40!!
Buen video, todo perfectamente explicado, la verdad es que ayudo usted mucho a entender esta maquina, opte por comprarlo ya que ofrece mas posibilidades que el carro de escoplear convencional, ya que solo sirve para escoplear y además los bordes siempre son redondos, cosa que nunca me gusto por el hecho de tener que redondear las espigas con la lima gruesa, nunca quedaban bien y siembre dando problemas a la hora de empezar a encolar y prensar, es el método que siempre he visto usar a todos los carpinteros a lo largo de mi trayectoria, sin embargo, las espigas cuadradas aporta una perfección y seguridad de saber que van a entrar perfectas, mas fijas y sin tener inseguridades a la hora de encolar y prensar, de pequeño use una vez esta máquina en una carpinteria en el período de aprendizaje y desde entonces me di cuenta que es el mejor método, así que me compré una hace una semana y con su ayuda, esta funcionando perfectamente, también brinda la posibilidad de poder hacer agujeros en puertas de cocina para bisagras de cazoleta, tornillos excéntricos, taladros en metal y todo lo que puede hacer un taladro de columna, es la mejor compra que se puede hacer por versatilidad y acabados en madera y otros materiales, gracias por el video, estoy tremendamente agradecido.
Very good!
Glad you think so!
Thanks Rob! I've owned one for a couple years-bought it used for $75 USD. The gentleman I purchased it from was down sizing and didn't need it anymore-he said he only used it on one project (a sofa that had something like 50 slats in the back and bottom.) It is in excellent shape and is a newer Delta, model 14-651 TYPE 3 made in 2016 or 17 (the manual is dated 2016). One of the nice things about it is the fence adjustment-it has a rack and pinion to move it forward and back along with 2 locking knobs to hold it in place. Otherwise it is the same as yours-just a little more updated.
I've always had problems getting the chisel/drill gap adjusted to get the chips to eject. I'm going to try your method since I've tried everyone else's-even going by the manual. I do like the results it produces once I get it right.
By the way-it has a 1/2 horse motor and I think it is 1725 rpm. Pretty sure mine doesn't run at 3450-it just doesn't seem that fast. I'll have to pay attention to the motor plate when I run it this weekend.
hopefully its a 1750
@@RobCosmanWoodworking, Apparently they changed over from 3,450 to 1,725 rpm with the type-2, as that's what mine is.
I bought a second hand Morticer seven years ago when I had to make a gate. Brilliant piece of kit. It’s a pity I didn’t fully understand how to use it 🌞Until now.
Glad this helped
I have the large Powermatic, that i bought used, at a very good price. I don't use it much, but when I need it, glad I have it.
Got to love a powermatic
The magnet holding the iron rule is a great tip. I'm sheepish at never having imagined that method. My mortiser is an old floor model. The chisels have come from eBay, cut-rate catalogs, reputable suppliers, tool swap meets, and auctions. There's a lot of cruddy tooling out there. Some of the worst comes from the companies that badge inexpensive mortisers. I've found incomplete and off center grinds of their chisels, bits with shanks far undersize that yield wandering holes, and chisels sloppily ground so they get larger as they penetrate the work. Some of those faults can be rectified once you recognize them. Old Greenlees are excellent. The best new chisels I've found come from that famous Atlanta supplier and are manufactured in England. The only drawback to them other than costing more is that the internal bevel of the chisels is at a different angle than the Asian imports so you'll need a different stone to hone them. I like chucking the chisel cutting edge up in a vise and spinning the stone in a hand crank drill to restore a dull edge. Dogged application of emery cloth around a steel rule can shave a few thousandths behind the chisel's cutting edges to provide proper relief to a chisel that gets sticks in the hole.
All great tips and comments. By the way you can say "Highland Woodworking" Thnaks for a great comment
Lee Valley sells a set of diamond or carbide( ?) cones for sharpening the chisels. Now I need to look for your tenon jig refresher. 👍
Looks like a fun little tool, a perhaps a way to start getting some mortises done for projects while learning on the side how to do the hand cut mortises.
That works...can pick up used models pretty easy
I bought a mortising attachment for my delta drill press in the mid 90’s but I could never get it adjusted to be perpendicular and parallel. It stayed in the box for years until I sold my drill press and gave it tinted guy who bought it. In the meantime, I got to explore other methods and types of joints.
I've just bought a hollow chisel morticer, with the first job being a pair of gates with 4"x4"x5/8" mortices. Next is nine full size doors with 1/2" mortices. Wasn't looking forward to doing them by hand.
Out the box, the machine works fine but the cheap chisels are definitely sub par, needing some heavy force to cut.
I'll try sharpening & polishing them & the bits but will likely buy some quality replacements.
Mr. Cosman - I'm very grateful for your excellent videos. I've learned much. As the Mortiser's bit run-out creates a corrugated finish to one side of the mortise, would cleaning up the mortise with a hand chisel so as to flatten the surface along with matching the mortise's new wider dimension with a snug fitting tenon make enough of a difference in the strength of the joint to make the extra effort worthwhile?
I've got a set of brass gauge sticks of varying thicknesses. I'll use the thickest and sandwich it between the chisel and fence then with the chisel a little loose in the chuck will move the fence towards the chisel until the play is eliminated, lock down the fence and tighten the chisel in place. I will then use the appropriate size brass gauge (1/4" for 3/4" material) to set the distance between the fence and chisel making sure I can slide the gauge out with minimal play, you don't want it so tight you can't slide it back in. My mortises come out perfect every time.
There are some conical diamond sharpeners available to sharpen bits that are really dull or even damaged. One for the main grind, and one to put a micro-bevel on the edge. The can be found by the catchy name "Conical Sharpeners for Economy Chisels & Bits for Mortisers & Drill-Press Mortising Attachments".
If I may suggest if that Bit and chisel is same one you used to do the 200 chairs it may be warn out and need replacing also paraffin wax on the contact surfaces of the bit and chisel will help
After the magnet method, one can simply do one cut with a piece of straight wood and use the wood as the guide to attain parallelism later. One has to make use the best straight grain kiln dried wood for this and to check periodically whether it remains straight.
I shim the chisel away from the body with a feeler gauge, insert the drill tightly, then loosen the chisel,raising it to working position before locking it down producing the appropriate clearance between drill and chisel.
That's sounds like a good procedure. Thanks for sharing that tip
Standard procedure.
I have a Jet I bought years ago that looks almost exactly the same. I plug it into a foot operated switch, which is pretty handy.
Wish I had a foot operated switch
Hey Rob enjoy your video. Tim hear from Keystone Heights Florida. I just ordered one of these Delta mortisers from The Home Depot. It has the 1/2 hp motor, but runs at 1720 rpm. The model # is the same except the last # is a 1 instead of a 0.
That makes it perfect
Subbed
Not sure if it’s readily available here in North America. My daughter sent me over a fantastic set up tool pretty common in the UK. Its called the “Bandsaw Buddy” , basically it’s your magnet steal rule setup. It’s a ridged machined length of aluminum with mags. The nice thing is is that it’s perfectly straight while my steel rules might not be on the flat side, I get very tight tolerances on both my bandsaw and my mortiser, or in any situation where I need to make a very short plane parallel to a long one. It was a cool gift so I’m not sure of the cost but I could not imagine it to be much.
If you loosen the mortice chisel you can register it against the fence, even the smallest ones. You can also buy a counter sink with different sized pins to bevel the inside of the chisel.
Nice demo though Rob.
Thnaks for watching and commenting
I bought one of these machines second hand, but haven't got to use it for a project, yet, so this video was very informative and useful, thanks! I was surprised, given how careful you usually are that you didin't clean up the drill overrun along one side of the mortice. Would that level of unevenness in the side still give a good quality joint?
Its only at the top not on the while inside wall. Only where the drill first engages. so the joint wall is flat and smooth inside giving a good glue surface
I was always taught that you should face the open slot in the chisel along the long axis of the mortice you're cutting , that way the chips get ejected easier into the mortice as you're cutting and they don't get trapped in the chisel by the stock each side leading to less clogging and overheating of the bits.
Good point on those deep plunges!
That is what the manuals say but I have never seen and issue with orienting to the front or back...Whi knows
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Well I assume that the teachers at England's leading furniture making college in High Wycombe knew ... ;-)
@@steveward53, I think it can only be an issue if not enough port is showing to eject chips.
@@steveward53 , the storied High Wycombe district. What is the name of the school, if you please? And I’ll bet that Rob knows of it.
Another good video, thanks Rob.
I have a SIPP HCM and was always told to have the “open” side of the chisel on the unsupported side of the mortice to allow the chips to escape freely. I do take your point about deflection towards the unsupported edge though. But I wonder if that terrible front edge of your mortice was caused by having the chisel oriented the way it was.
That's a good thought. Let me test it
Manuals schmanuals
@@reerini, Without the manual I would/ve been tempted to shorten the shank of my ¾" bit. Not, if you consider everything that could actually go wrong with such a simple sounding "Solution", such a great idea.
Forgot to say ,rob this is the best setup video on the mortiser, just replaced mine wine the festool domino xl, my mortiser is for sell ..
Thnaks so much
This is an older video but you show great tips. But i'm wandering how you to a Festool Domino.
Do you ever use loose tenon joints or a machine like the Domino?
Good and tight to you too
Thanks for watching
Great video Rob. I have a hollow chisel morticer, but your tip for squaring the chisel was new to me. But why not attach the rule on the fence side?
You could do that too
Wonderful detailed explanation of all the features, Rob.
My problem is that my depth stop has a spring pin at the top, that's preventing the rod from being lowered. My model is the same number Delta brand, but the depth stop is on the left side. Have you ween others with this problem/feature?
I am making Large mortices in 4x4 Douglas Fir for a Japanese style sawhorse. My mortice depth is 2" but the depth stop is of no use as it is. Do I need to extract the spring pin? I feel I'm missing something obvious.
I have that same Delta mortiser. One thing I have never liked was the chuck key having that spring loaded button on the end.
I don’t find that too bothersome. Different folks, different strokes I guess
You're sure correct in stating this machine had a 'fair bit of setup' to it.
Another well done video....would only add that the 1/4"drill is very fragile and easily broken by wood chips that bind in the chisel....3/8" drill is less of an issue.
I totally agree
If you align the chisel correctly so that the chips get ejected into the fresh mortice as you're cutting it you'll get negligible clogging and binding or overheating of the bits that leads to loss of temper and more frequent honing ... ;-)
It was nice to refresh my knowledge 👍🏼 Just a heads up , a used mortiser like yours , is now $400 CDN 😱 Continue the great work 😜🇨🇦
Yikes!!!
The mortise machine I use says to set chisel up with a gap the thickness of a penny between the shoulder and the spindle. Then set the drill bit tight to the chisel. Then reset the chisel tight to the shoulder and square to the fence. This will give you the clearance needed between the chisel and the bit.
That's is a good procedure too. I dont like it as I think it doesn't get the drill tight enough to the chisel.
I have a similar brand X model and have used it a lot. Also have a drill press attachment I use less now. If I want the spacing to be a 1/4" off the fence I use a 1/4" spacer to set the distance and make the bit parallel to the fence at the same time. Also, I put a spacer on top of the chisel, a dime or a credit card, and set the drill bit tight up into it. Remove the spacer and lift the chisel to get a nice clearance spacing.
I wonder if you rotted your chisel 90 degrees would it move the ragged side into the mortice where it would not matter and give you two clean sides? (That ragged side is what thickened epoxy is for.)
The handle came out of mine, causing me to hit myself in the face....twice. Slow learner.
LOL! As I noted to Mr. Cosman earlier, "'Experience' can be a harsh mistress".