I never had issues with future floor finish before decals .I have a brand new bottle of pledge , But im still useing my old bottle of Future its about half empty and had it about 15 years. you need a small needle when spraying future so it wont pool. its great for canopy .
My technique with Future has always been to mist on 4-5 coats at around 10-12 PSI, and I've never had any problems with drips. In every case I've heard about or rrad wherein drips, sags or crazing in the finish has occured, the individual was applying it too thickly and not waiting a sufficient amount of time between coats. Of course, it takes patience and waiting until subsequent coats have adequately dried. Cheers.
That's great advice! When it comes to Gundam stuff, 4-5 coats on +50 parts can be really time consuming. I'm finding that one pass of Alclad Aqua Gloss is enough to protect my paintwork. Thanks for the comment!
I have heard..... but Need Confirmation...... CAN, "Aqua Gloss" be used on clear canopies of aircraft ( A/C ), many of us modellers have used 'Future' for A/C canopies and other "glass" applications to simulate that "glass-like finish". Modellers have "Dipped" their A/C canopies into the 'Future' solution, so my question is...... Can "Aqua Gloss" be used as a substitute for 'Future' to simulate a glass-like appearance?? AND Have you tried it???? Thanks in Advance
thanks for the rundown for what youve been moving up on in terms of top coat. I recently switched to aqua gloss and have been having trouble getting the finish to be really glossy without several layers, but do think it is more consistent than future by a long shot (also doesnt feel tacky like future does).
Tokio thanks for the comment! Yea, Aqua isn’t going to get too glossy, I’d recommend looking into the 2k finishes namely, Splash Paints. I recently finished a Gundam with 2k clear and it looks incredible, I’ll try to post a video soon!
1:1 Mr. Clear Gloss III with leveling thinner. BTW just found your channel and I do quite enjoy it. I'm Newish/returning to the hobby and you have some really good videos on what you are using and it's helping me get a warm fuzzy on what everyone is using these days.
With regards to matt coats, I've been using the Winsor & Newton Galeria Acrylic Matt Varnish and have been very happy with it. Easy to spray, no thinning required, very forgiving. I've had no frosting issues, unlike with the Tamiya XF-86. I'm also interested in trying a lacquer gloss. I use Aqua Gloss and Gauzy Coat right now but I feel like there must be something better out there. Alclad has a lacquer gloss I'd like to try. I had never heard of these Splash Paints until just now, interested in hearing how you do with them.
Hi, thanks for the note! I'll be sure to check out Winsor & Newton as well. I just recently used the Alclad Matte and my initial report is excellent! I'm also glad to hear that I'm not the only user who's seen frosting with the XF-86. I'm hoping to play around with the Splash Paint lacquer gloss and I'll be sure to post a video with my findings. Thanks again for the note!
So glad to see your video and know I’m not alone. I’ve been fighting with Pledge, orange peel and little gloss. Sanded the car down and tried again with a smaller tip, a little better but still grainy with orange peel. Since both are water based, have you ever tried spraying Alclad over Pledge? I’m trying to save this project, maybe that would do it. Thanks.
Hey nerd, great video. I'm a little late to the party here, but I wanted to provide my 2 cents for what it's worth (probably 2 cents, really). I haven't seen that problem with Future. You may be applying it too thick, actually. When I use future, I apply 4 thin coats; no more, no less. If it's running (or clouding--it clouds up sometimes if it's too thick...but no need to worry, it immediately turns clear again) then it's too thick. From my experience Future self-levels better than model-grade clear coats. DISCLAIMER: I've never used Aqua Gloss, only the gloss lacquer.
Hey Macho, hope you get this. I'm learning how to airbrush and will be using Tamiya and Vallejo paints. Would the Alclad Aqua Gloss work over those paints? I need to use acrylics as I have to spray in my bedroom for optimal climate control but am more open to good clear coats. What do you recommend?
Hey, great to hear from you! Yes it would work but NO, I would not use Alclad in your bedroom because of the lingering smell and toxicity. I've been meaning to do an update to this video because at one point I said that "Aqua is acrylic," it's definitely a lacquer paint. I'd recommend to keep spraying acrylics until you're able to move your setup elsewhere.
@@machomodelz3954 Hi, thanks for the video! I have been looking into the Alclad Aqua Gloss but seems to be a water-based unlike the other Alclad coats. But you mention is lacquer so which one is it? Basically asking because if you use it as a base coat for a lacquer metallic this would strip with the lacquer paint on top. But if you use it for decals that would be fine because you are not painting on top of it with lacquers. Enamels should be fine after it cured.
Two or three pack “2K” paints can be very harmful to your and other people’s health, even in small quantities. They are one of the major causes of industrial asthma in the developed world, especially in the auto and paint spraying fields. If they contain iso-cyanates then you NEED safe breathing apparatus (in the UK and US the occupational health regulators say that means air-fed BA from a clean source outside the room spraying takes place) and a proper spray booth with effective flame-proof extraction to outside air. You need to be sure that there are no fumes in the room before taking off the BA or letting in anyone not wearing BA. Iso-cyanates are very sensitising and even small quantities can cause long-term or immediate severe health problems. Once sensitised you’re always sensitised and once that happens using the paints is particularly dangerous. Professional car painters who have become sensitised have to stop being car painters because the risk of becoming a “respiratory cripple”, or worse, is too great. Download the manufacturer’s safety sheets and read and follow them. If there are no safety sheets then avoid the product. Download your local occupational health and safety regulator’s good practice guides and follow them (HSE in the UK, OSHA in the US). Alternatively, stick to acrylics, cellulose and traditional (cellulose) lacquers - far fewer health issues and in my opinion they give a more realistic look on models than a layer of unbelievably shiny clear plastic. This even applies to older cars which were painted with cellulose when new - a 1960s car “restored” with a modern 2K paint job does not look right.
This is an outstanding comment and thanks for taking the time to write it up! Interesting perspective and it's clear, pun intended, you know what you're talking about! I'd really like to run a head-to-head test on 2Ks vs cellulose lacquers on model cars. 2Ks are super popular however, as you mentioned, it might just be a fad. Thanks again, really appreciate your added knowledge here.
Thanks! I was looking at that product and I felt a little uneasy until I read your comment and looked into it some more. I'm sticking with Alclad ;) No need to experiment with my health just to experiment with a now known toxic substance - It's just not worth the risk.
I wanna protect my tank models with an acrylic varnish before doing weathering with enamel products and pigments on top the the water based acrylic base coat. Is Aqua gloss enough? I'm afraid the thinner for the enamel washes will eat thru it.
Aqua gloss is absolutely enough! No need to put down a heavy coat, just a few light coats should be more than enough to protect your paint work. Thanks for the comment, really appreciate it!
Hello can I ask how long do you wait for the alclad gloss to dry before applying enamel wash? How many layers do you apply? Currently I apply 1 layer of Alclad gloss then wait 24 hrs before I apply enamel paint for panel lining. But the lighter fluid use to wash enamel also remove the Alclad gloss coat. I don’t apply a lot of force when washing the enamel.
24 hours is fine, but 48 hours is better. If it’s just a protective coat, I may just do 2-3 passes. Try waiting an extra day and try using odorless enamel thinner, I find it’s more mild than lighter fluid. I also don’t like how quickly lighter fluid evaporates on my Q Tips. Hope this helps!
For automotive stuff or super high gloss I'll use 2k but I've been shopping around alternatives. 2k rocks but it's super tough to get right out of the airbrush.
@@GunplaUniversity there's a lot of conflicting information out there on Aqua, it says "Alclad II Lacquer" however, there are a number of sites that report Aqua is water-based. Do some homework and let me know what you find!
@@machomodelz3954 for that 2k do you have to mix a little batch each time or can you mix up a whole batch at once and put it in a bottle to pour on demand ?
Can you use the Alclad II aqua gloss coat over Alclad II chrome? And does is affect the shine? And is it a acrylic based clear coat (I guess so, “aqua”)?
Nout van der Sloot yea, I think that’s a safe bet! From what I read, you should be good to go. Plus, I’d trust that Alclad makes their products compatible with one another. Thanks for the comment!
I have and it rocks! My prefered method is: -Prime -Paint -Alclad Aqua Gloss -Decals -Another layer of Aqua Gloss or Matte however, I just gloss over the decals, not the whole kit itself -Weathering -Final coat
Although future works well for me when applied in VERY LIGHT coats, I ordered Alclad Aqua Gloss today. I will report back with the results. Wish me luck.
Hey, thanks for the comment! Yea, I think I’m too impatient for the thin Future coats. I’m glad you took to plunge, please come back with your results!
Why do people in this hobby always seem to refer to a clear varnish as "Top Coat"? Just because Mr. Hobby has a product in their clear varnish under that name, DOESN'T mean that always clears are a Top Coat. jfl at weebs and their Anime robot models.
I only see that in the Gundam community. That's because most people there don't paint aside from varnish, so the most common use of clears is as a finishing layer, hence "Top coat".
I never had issues with future floor finish before decals .I have a brand new bottle of pledge , But im still useing my old bottle of Future its about half empty and had it about 15 years. you need a small needle when spraying future so it wont pool. its great for canopy .
I've had that problem with pledge. Now I pre-warm the model and use several lite coats drying with a hairdryer between coats. It works great.
My technique with Future has always been to mist on 4-5 coats at around 10-12 PSI, and I've never had any problems with drips. In every case I've heard about or rrad wherein drips, sags or crazing in the finish has occured, the individual was applying it too thickly and not waiting a sufficient amount of time between coats. Of course, it takes patience and waiting until subsequent coats have adequately dried. Cheers.
That's great advice! When it comes to Gundam stuff, 4-5 coats on +50 parts can be really time consuming. I'm finding that one pass of Alclad Aqua Gloss is enough to protect my paintwork. Thanks for the comment!
Macho Modelz if you do one pass then you don’t go with light coats right?
4everclear headlight clear coat works very well on Chrome paint.
I don't know how long it'll last or how durable it is but you lose zero reflective.
I keep hearing that you're not supposed to use Klear Kotes on Alclad's metallics like chrome. Is there a reason for that, or does it work?
Thank you for the video.
I use the splash 2K clear coat system on my Formula 1 builds - it’s incredible stuff. Supreme high gloss finish !
Thanks for the comment, I've loved it so far. Admittedly, I'm kinda excited to get through my current bottle and try their new formula.
I have heard..... but Need Confirmation......
CAN, "Aqua Gloss" be used on clear canopies of aircraft ( A/C ), many of us modellers have used 'Future' for A/C canopies and other "glass" applications to simulate that "glass-like finish". Modellers have "Dipped" their A/C canopies into the 'Future' solution, so my question is......
Can "Aqua Gloss" be used as a substitute for 'Future' to simulate a glass-like appearance?? AND Have you tried it????
Thanks in Advance
thanks for the rundown for what youve been moving up on in terms of top coat. I recently switched to aqua gloss and have been having trouble getting the finish to be really glossy without several layers, but do think it is more consistent than future by a long shot (also doesnt feel tacky like future does).
Tokio thanks for the comment! Yea, Aqua isn’t going to get too glossy, I’d recommend looking into the 2k finishes namely, Splash Paints. I recently finished a Gundam with 2k clear and it looks incredible, I’ll try to post a video soon!
@@machomodelz3954 awesome looking forward to it!
1:1 Mr. Clear Gloss III with leveling thinner. BTW just found your channel and I do quite enjoy it. I'm Newish/returning to the hobby and you have some really good videos on what you are using and it's helping me get a warm fuzzy on what everyone is using these days.
Hey thanks, I'm happy to help! Please message me direct if you ever have any questions or want to shoot the breeze!
With regards to matt coats, I've been using the Winsor & Newton Galeria Acrylic Matt Varnish and have been very happy with it. Easy to spray, no thinning required, very forgiving. I've had no frosting issues, unlike with the Tamiya XF-86.
I'm also interested in trying a lacquer gloss. I use Aqua Gloss and Gauzy Coat right now but I feel like there must be something better out there. Alclad has a lacquer gloss I'd like to try. I had never heard of these Splash Paints until just now, interested in hearing how you do with them.
Hi, thanks for the note! I'll be sure to check out Winsor & Newton as well. I just recently used the Alclad Matte and my initial report is excellent! I'm also glad to hear that I'm not the only user who's seen frosting with the XF-86. I'm hoping to play around with the Splash Paint lacquer gloss and I'll be sure to post a video with my findings. Thanks again for the note!
So glad to see your video and know I’m not alone. I’ve been fighting with Pledge, orange peel and little gloss. Sanded the car down and tried again with a smaller tip, a little better but still grainy with orange peel. Since both are water based, have you ever tried spraying Alclad over Pledge? I’m trying to save this project, maybe that would do it. Thanks.
Hey nerd, great video. I'm a little late to the party here, but I wanted to provide my 2 cents for what it's worth (probably 2 cents, really).
I haven't seen that problem with Future. You may be applying it too thick, actually. When I use future, I apply 4 thin coats; no more, no less. If it's running (or clouding--it clouds up sometimes if it's too thick...but no need to worry, it immediately turns clear again) then it's too thick. From my experience Future self-levels better than model-grade clear coats. DISCLAIMER: I've never used Aqua Gloss, only the gloss lacquer.
Hey Macho, hope you get this. I'm learning how to airbrush and will be using Tamiya and Vallejo paints. Would the Alclad Aqua Gloss work over those paints? I need to use acrylics as I have to spray in my bedroom for optimal climate control but am more open to good clear coats. What do you recommend?
Hey, great to hear from you! Yes it would work but NO, I would not use Alclad in your bedroom because of the lingering smell and toxicity. I've been meaning to do an update to this video because at one point I said that "Aqua is acrylic," it's definitely a lacquer paint. I'd recommend to keep spraying acrylics until you're able to move your setup elsewhere.
@@machomodelz3954 Hi, thanks for the video! I have been looking into the Alclad Aqua Gloss but seems to be a water-based unlike the other Alclad coats. But you mention is lacquer so which one is it? Basically asking because if you use it as a base coat for a lacquer metallic this would strip with the lacquer paint on top. But if you use it for decals that would be fine because you are not painting on top of it with lacquers. Enamels should be fine after it cured.
Two or three pack “2K” paints can be very harmful to your and other people’s health, even in small quantities. They are one of the major causes of industrial asthma in the developed world, especially in the auto and paint spraying fields. If they contain iso-cyanates then you NEED safe breathing apparatus (in the UK and US the occupational health regulators say that means air-fed BA from a clean source outside the room spraying takes place) and a proper spray booth with effective flame-proof extraction to outside air. You need to be sure that there are no fumes in the room before taking off the BA or letting in anyone not wearing BA. Iso-cyanates are very sensitising and even small quantities can cause long-term or immediate severe health problems. Once sensitised you’re always sensitised and once that happens using the paints is particularly dangerous. Professional car painters who have become sensitised have to stop being car painters because the risk of becoming a “respiratory cripple”, or worse, is too great.
Download the manufacturer’s safety sheets and read and follow them. If there are no safety sheets then avoid the product. Download your local occupational health and safety regulator’s good practice guides and follow them (HSE in the UK, OSHA in the US).
Alternatively, stick to acrylics, cellulose and traditional (cellulose) lacquers - far fewer health issues and in my opinion they give a more realistic look on models than a layer of unbelievably shiny clear plastic. This even applies to older cars which were painted with cellulose when new - a 1960s car “restored” with a modern 2K paint job does not look right.
This is an outstanding comment and thanks for taking the time to write it up! Interesting perspective and it's clear, pun intended, you know what you're talking about! I'd really like to run a head-to-head test on 2Ks vs cellulose lacquers on model cars. 2Ks are super popular however, as you mentioned, it might just be a fad. Thanks again, really appreciate your added knowledge here.
Thanks! I was looking at that product and I felt a little uneasy until I read your comment and looked into it some more. I'm sticking with Alclad ;) No need to experiment with my health just to experiment with a now known toxic substance - It's just not worth the risk.
I wanna protect my tank models with an acrylic varnish before doing weathering with enamel products and pigments on top the the water based acrylic base coat. Is Aqua gloss enough? I'm afraid the thinner for the enamel washes will eat thru it.
Aqua gloss is absolutely enough! No need to put down a heavy coat, just a few light coats should be more than enough to protect your paint work. Thanks for the comment, really appreciate it!
Hello can I ask how long do you wait for the alclad gloss to dry before applying enamel wash? How many layers do you apply?
Currently I apply 1 layer of Alclad gloss then wait 24 hrs before I apply enamel paint for panel lining. But the lighter fluid use to wash enamel also remove the Alclad gloss coat. I don’t apply a lot of force when washing the enamel.
24 hours is fine, but 48 hours is better. If it’s just a protective coat, I may just do 2-3 passes. Try waiting an extra day and try using odorless enamel thinner, I find it’s more mild than lighter fluid. I also don’t like how quickly lighter fluid evaporates on my Q Tips. Hope this helps!
@@machomodelz3954 thank you for the reply. I'm going to look on amazon for odorless enamel thinner.
which do you recommend for metallics?
macho what are you using for clear coat now a days?
Aqua gloss! I use Alclad Aqua, Matte, and Semi-Matte, ride or die!
For automotive stuff or super high gloss I'll use 2k but I've been shopping around alternatives. 2k rocks but it's super tough to get right out of the airbrush.
@@machomodelz3954 in this video u mention that the alclad top coats are acrylic based? i thought they were laqcers
@@GunplaUniversity there's a lot of conflicting information out there on Aqua, it says "Alclad II Lacquer" however, there are a number of sites that report Aqua is water-based. Do some homework and let me know what you find!
@@machomodelz3954 for that 2k do you have to mix a little batch each time or can you mix up a whole batch at once and put it in a bottle to pour on demand ?
Can you use the Alclad II aqua gloss coat over Alclad II chrome? And does is affect the shine? And is it a acrylic based clear coat (I guess so, “aqua”)?
Nout van der Sloot yea, I think that’s a safe bet! From what I read, you should be good to go. Plus, I’d trust that Alclad makes their products compatible with one another. Thanks for the comment!
Macho Modelz thanks for your answer!
Have you used alclad clear coat as a sealer for waterslide decals?
I have and it rocks! My prefered method is:
-Prime
-Paint
-Alclad Aqua Gloss
-Decals
-Another layer of Aqua Gloss or Matte however, I just gloss over the decals, not the whole kit itself
-Weathering
-Final coat
@@machomodelz3954 cool thanks for the advice!
Although future works well for me when applied in VERY LIGHT coats, I ordered Alclad Aqua Gloss today. I will report back with the results. Wish me luck.
Hey, thanks for the comment! Yea, I think I’m too impatient for the thin Future coats. I’m glad you took to plunge, please come back with your results!
brushing Future is the best way. No peeling, no pool etc
Thanks for the tip! I'm still not comfortable brush painting, especially on larger builds. I'd like to try it on figures!
Very informative. Can you apply enamel washes after using aqua gloss?
Absolutely! I've used enamel washes many times over Aqua Gloss and it works great. Thanks for the comment!
Macho Modelz how you apply aqua gloss? Using wet passes or by light coats
Definitely light coats! Check out my Tallgeese video for more on why.
Macho Modelz ok. Many thanks. It would be great if you can do a video applying aqua gloss over black surface to see how to do it and the technique
chuso271 you got it! Look for the video in a couple weeks.
What pressure do you use for the alclad aqua gloss?
Hi! For future I set my airbrush on the higher side, around 20-25 PSI. Thanks for posting a comment!
Why do people in this hobby always seem to refer to a clear varnish as "Top Coat"? Just because Mr. Hobby has a product in their clear varnish under that name, DOESN'T mean that always clears are a Top Coat. jfl at weebs and their Anime robot models.
I only see that in the Gundam community. That's because most people there don't paint aside from varnish, so the most common use of clears is as a finishing layer, hence "Top coat".