Hi i have a ps4 white light problem and need advice. So i traded a faulty xbox one original for a supposed faulty ps4 original from a person that fixes consoles that wanted the Xbox for spares. So on the day i got home with the ps4 i used my ps3 cables to power it on and it miraculously powered on which surprised me as the controller was connected properly using the usb cable. But i saw the screen flash black then back to the home screen which i didn't know what is was then it did it once more and was displaying perfectly. After about 5 mins of waiting for it too show some errors or switching off because i did not expect it to work i plugged in my usb speakers to the other usb port on the front while the controller was plugged in. That was when the screen went black instantly. I didn't know what happened and pressed the eject button and a copy of GTA 5 came out which means the console was still powered on. When i plug the controller and speakers in on my ps3 super slim at the same time is says too many devices drawing power something like that. So i think it drew too much power on the ps4 and caused a wlod on the ps4. Im trying to do a home repair with minimal tools and if you could give me some idea of what the usb ports could have shorted eg a transistor or fuses or something. It still powers on and everything but that was the defining factor i think that contributed to the white light of death. Any recommendations would help as ive watched a lot of CZcams videos and most are the ic chip or some transistor . Its a original ps4 with wlod 1116A
Thanks for the vids, I finally fixed this xbox one x, took me 4/5 tries... had no power issues,, changed the retimer and re did that 4 times, went from power to no signal to on then off to power no signal, idk what fixed it cause second to last time I was pretty sure I finally got the retimer solders good, but I did reflow the hdmi bga/vga? Chip cause I found a video were tronics swapped one out but never said why
Good to hear mate. The HDMI BGA chip you're referring to is an ESD protection diode pack and boost IC. It basically boosts the signals to allow for 4k output. I created a video earlier which I will be editing in the next week or so where I go over what that chip actually does
I don’t want to sound like I’m complaining because I’m not I love your vids but the red outer lining of the thumbnail made me think I’ve already watched your video so I skipped over it but I’ve just realised I haven’t I don’t know if anyone else has thought the same but just wanted to let you know
Thanks for that feedback mate, honestly don't feel bad for giving me contstructive feedback because it's the only way I can improve. I genuinely appreciate it. A few people have mentioned that now, I think I'll stop using that red box and switch to a more vibrant colour :) Thanks mate
Greetings brother, you repair blackmagiec devices whose HDMI/SDI outputs do not work correctly. I have an ATEM STUDIO HD and the multiviewer output is not functional, comments saying that it is the CPU or voltage so that the cameras can be seen in the multiviewer. Anything I can send you repair examples
I've had a run of bad luck with these MN86471A chips and the MN864729 on the newer PS4 models. It's frustrating because the first couple I replaced with hot air and had no problems. But now I've had the last four chips in a row fail! I've been thinking it must be the hot air that is killing them and decided to only put them on with a soldering iron from now on. You're the first I've seen use an iron with these chips so are you thinking the same thing? The hot air kills them? It could also be maybe I've been getting dead chips. I've only been buying from highly rated sellers... but I always wonder. Anyone have an idea about this? These chips really aren't cheap! It sucks when they die for nothing.
Yeah I choose to install these ones with the iron becsuse it's a lot less stress on the chip. I have had a few go bad but most the ones I buy seem fine and I buy from high rated sellers on aliexpress too :)
@@TheCod3r Thanks, that's good to know about the sellers. I've ordered some new chips, and I'll be soldering them with an iron only. I wonder if it's possible to solder the newer QFNs with just an iron? I'll post back here if it works.
My ps4 when i plug it in you have to wait around 3 minutes before I can turn on
Před 3 lety
Perfect video for my own upcoming project showed up in my subscription! Im planing to replace a chip of similar size and packaging and I have the same or similar hot air station. I was just wondering what temperature and airflow you used any maybe what distance and also what size nozzle you used if any? I just like to get ideas of what works for people so I have some base line to dial it in from when doing it on a practice board before committing on the actual board. Best Regards Patrik
Hey Patrik, hopefully this helps mate. Basically for removing QFP chips I tend not to use any nozzle. That allows me to heat up the chip evenly and all pins tend to desolder evenly. If I'm removing a chip I know to be dead, I whack it with 480⁰C because I don't care for the safety of that chip (it's dead anyway right?). When I say that 5 seconds you save adds up I really mean it. If you do that 100 times a year thats 500 seconds or more precisely 8 minutes 33 seconds lol. I can replace a HDMI port in 8 minutes meaning over the space of a year I could potentially save enough time to do one more job. Sounds stupid, but it's definitely true lol. Anyway, distance you want to be a few inches from the board ideally. Anything less and you'll burn the board and anything more and you'll struggle to remove the chip 😄
Před 3 lety
@@TheCod3r Thank you that is helpful to know! Its always a bit hard to judge distance with an overhead cam. the chip is a working one, the new an upgrade so I do want to save the old one if I can just in case its needed. Forgot to add that, also PCB is 28 years old so excessive heat tends to be an issue.
Did hdmi port today on phat to perfection still black screen then had picture before that coming and going now sound just black screen checked the fillets on hdmi ic one filler no continuity you think it's the ic or the filler that's faulty? Please advise champ
Hi cod3r. I have a ps4 slim with blod (immediate turn off on blue light). The hdmi encoder ic had a big hole in it. I removed it but till it's same blod. With your experience does a ps4 show this blod with the chip removed? The chip needs international shipping to my country (Chinese import is also banned), i dont want to waste any more money on this if it's scrap.
Phill would you have the time too look at a picture for me please if I messaged it to you ? I’ve bodged a switch port up today and had to run wire jumper across the whole inner set of pins then put pcb epoxy down. Issue is I think the jumper wires are going to put the port too high up on the first row of pins. Have you ever had this and been able to angle the connector and solder the outer/second set of pins ?
Hey phill big fan of the channel im wondering if you can help my pc has coil whine in the psu its a corsair cx750 is there a way to fix it if not is it safe to use i would really appriciate the help thanks keep up the great work
I dont think it's unsafe to use mate but I don't really know about fixing it. I don't personally touch power supplies because of the dangers of working on them mate
Coil whine ? Welcome to PS5 🤣 - it’s not dangerous; it will have a strange regulation tho - you can replace the caps for better quality ones if you want to get rid of it. The only thing about crazy regulating PSUs is that they will shag up the caps/mosfets on the load!
@@cheapasstech yeah something I wouldn't touch to be honest. Power supplies are dangerous if you don't know what you're doing, and I definitely don't know what I'm doing lol
Yeah they can, but you might end up with interference if you use a dirty power source. I used to have a battery terminal that connected to my bench supply to give me an option of hooking it to the supply but I kept putting too much power in by accident and blew my meter twice lol
Anything that saves using wick is fine by me as its so damn expensive, thanks for the tip. Great stuff as always Phil.
Cheers mate, yeah depending which brand you buy it can be expensive. I usually buy Gootwick because it's cheap and does a great job
Hi i have a ps4 white light problem and need advice.
So i traded a faulty xbox one original for a supposed faulty ps4 original from a person that fixes consoles that wanted the Xbox for spares.
So on the day i got home with the ps4 i used my ps3 cables to power it on and it miraculously powered on which surprised me as the controller was connected properly using the usb cable.
But i saw the screen flash black then back to the home screen which i didn't know what is was then it did it once more and was displaying perfectly.
After about 5 mins of waiting for it too show some errors or switching off because i did not expect it to work i plugged in my usb speakers to the other usb port on the front while the controller was plugged in.
That was when the screen went black instantly. I didn't know what happened and pressed the eject button and a copy of GTA 5 came out which means the console was still powered on.
When i plug the controller and speakers in on my ps3 super slim at the same time is says too many devices drawing power something like that.
So i think it drew too much power on the ps4 and caused a wlod on the ps4.
Im trying to do a home repair with minimal tools and if you could give me some idea of what the usb ports could have shorted eg a transistor or fuses or something.
It still powers on and everything but that was the defining factor i think that contributed to the white light of death.
Any recommendations would help as ive watched a lot of CZcams videos and most are the ic chip or some transistor .
Its a original ps4 with wlod 1116A
I fix mine with change the Panasonic IC with those four DIODES And it’s 100 percent work
Thanks for the vids, I finally fixed this xbox one x, took me 4/5 tries... had no power issues,, changed the retimer and re did that 4 times, went from power to no signal to on then off to power no signal, idk what fixed it cause second to last time I was pretty sure I finally got the retimer solders good, but I did reflow the hdmi bga/vga? Chip cause I found a video were tronics swapped one out but never said why
Good to hear mate. The HDMI BGA chip you're referring to is an ESD protection diode pack and boost IC. It basically boosts the signals to allow for 4k output. I created a video earlier which I will be editing in the next week or so where I go over what that chip actually does
Very nice fix again. Keep up the good work and coffee 😉
I don’t want to sound like I’m complaining because I’m not I love your vids but the red outer lining of the thumbnail made me think I’ve already watched your video so I skipped over it but I’ve just realised I haven’t I don’t know if anyone else has thought the same but just wanted to let you know
Thanks for that feedback mate, honestly don't feel bad for giving me contstructive feedback because it's the only way I can improve. I genuinely appreciate it. A few people have mentioned that now, I think I'll stop using that red box and switch to a more vibrant colour :) Thanks mate
Thanks Thecod3r for Keep PS4s fixes yet
Greetings brother, you repair blackmagiec devices whose HDMI/SDI outputs do not work correctly. I have an ATEM STUDIO HD and the multiviewer output is not functional, comments saying that it is the CPU or voltage so that the cameras can be seen in the multiviewer. Anything I can send you repair examples
Hello friend. I have a problem displaying the image for my PS4
Damn I'm late to the party, lol. Thanks for the video Phil.
haha cheers mate
What’s the tool called fir checking de HDD?
Bonjour s'il vous plaît où je peux trouver les schémas des cartes mères De consoles
I've had a run of bad luck with these MN86471A chips and the MN864729 on the newer PS4 models. It's frustrating because the first couple I replaced with hot air and had no problems. But now I've had the last four chips in a row fail! I've been thinking it must be the hot air that is killing them and decided to only put them on with a soldering iron from now on. You're the first I've seen use an iron with these chips so are you thinking the same thing? The hot air kills them? It could also be maybe I've been getting dead chips. I've only been buying from highly rated sellers... but I always wonder. Anyone have an idea about this? These chips really aren't cheap! It sucks when they die for nothing.
Yeah I choose to install these ones with the iron becsuse it's a lot less stress on the chip. I have had a few go bad but most the ones I buy seem fine and I buy from high rated sellers on aliexpress too :)
@@TheCod3r Thanks, that's good to know about the sellers. I've ordered some new chips, and I'll be soldering them with an iron only. I wonder if it's possible to solder the newer QFNs with just an iron? I'll post back here if it works.
My ps4 when i plug it in you have to wait around 3 minutes before I can turn on
Perfect video for my own upcoming project showed up in my subscription!
Im planing to replace a chip of similar size and packaging and I have the same or similar hot air station.
I was just wondering what temperature and airflow you used any maybe what distance and also what size nozzle you used if any?
I just like to get ideas of what works for people so I have some base line to dial it in from when doing it on a practice board before committing on the actual board.
Best Regards Patrik
Hey Patrik, hopefully this helps mate. Basically for removing QFP chips I tend not to use any nozzle. That allows me to heat up the chip evenly and all pins tend to desolder evenly. If I'm removing a chip I know to be dead, I whack it with 480⁰C because I don't care for the safety of that chip (it's dead anyway right?). When I say that 5 seconds you save adds up I really mean it. If you do that 100 times a year thats 500 seconds or more precisely 8 minutes 33 seconds lol. I can replace a HDMI port in 8 minutes meaning over the space of a year I could potentially save enough time to do one more job. Sounds stupid, but it's definitely true lol.
Anyway, distance you want to be a few inches from the board ideally. Anything less and you'll burn the board and anything more and you'll struggle to remove the chip 😄
@@TheCod3r Thank you that is helpful to know!
Its always a bit hard to judge distance with an overhead cam.
the chip is a working one, the new an upgrade so I do want to save the old one if I can just in case its needed.
Forgot to add that, also PCB is 28 years old so excessive heat tends to be an issue.
Well done bro.
I would like to know if a ps4 would boot and work fine without internet if the wifi chip is desoldered. Anybody knows?
Can you explain the beginning where you scanned the hard drive. Is that software that you bought?
Good
Well done ! Good fix.
Cheers buddy
Did hdmi port today on phat to perfection still black screen then had picture before that coming and going now sound just black screen checked the fillets on hdmi ic one filler no continuity you think it's the ic or the filler that's faulty? Please advise champ
Hey Phil have a PS4 same issue one of the diodes is 0.3 rather than 0.5 like the rest, do you think I could be looking at a faults encoder too?
nice job man
Hi cod3r. I have a ps4 slim with blod (immediate turn off on blue light). The hdmi encoder ic had a big hole in it. I removed it but till it's same blod. With your experience does a ps4 show this blod with the chip removed? The chip needs international shipping to my country (Chinese import is also banned), i dont want to waste any more money on this if it's scrap.
Phill would you have the time too look at a picture for me please if I messaged it to you ? I’ve bodged a switch port up today and had to run wire jumper across the whole inner set of pins then put pcb epoxy down. Issue is I think the jumper wires are going to put the port too high up on the first row of pins. Have you ever had this and been able to angle the connector and solder the outer/second set of pins ?
I can take a look mate yeah, chances are though you'll need to use a thinner guage wire. I recommend using 0.1mm for switch ports
Hey phill big fan of the channel im wondering if you can help my pc has coil whine in the psu its a corsair cx750 is there a way to fix it if not is it safe to use i would really appriciate the help thanks keep up the great work
I dont think it's unsafe to use mate but I don't really know about fixing it. I don't personally touch power supplies because of the dangers of working on them mate
Coil whine ? Welcome to PS5 🤣 - it’s not dangerous; it will have a strange regulation tho - you can replace the caps for better quality ones if you want to get rid of it. The only thing about crazy regulating PSUs is that they will shag up the caps/mosfets on the load!
@@cheapasstech yeah something I wouldn't touch to be honest. Power supplies are dangerous if you don't know what you're doing, and I definitely don't know what I'm doing lol
@@TheCod3r honestly I did blow up a PS3 psu myself too 🤣
@@cheapasstech shocking 😂😂😂 I've had a few zaps myself to be honest lol
Can multimeters be wired directly to power or is there something that means they have to be battery powered...?
Yeah they can, but you might end up with interference if you use a dirty power source. I used to have a battery terminal that connected to my bench supply to give me an option of hooking it to the supply but I kept putting too much power in by accident and blew my meter twice lol
@@TheCod3r oh 😝 thanks for the reply