RV Fogatti Tankless Water Heater Install Guide
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- čas přidán 15. 07. 2024
- I installed a Fogatti tankless water heater in my 27ft travel trailer RV. This guide will hopefully help you understand how easy it is to upgrade a standard water heater to a tankless one. I got my unit from RecPro and it has worked incredibly well.
Coupon code: NC6USLB
Fogatti Tankless Water Heater: www.recpro.com/rv-tankless-wa...
0:00 Intro
0:40 Turn off propane and disconnect battery
0:57 Remove the old tank
2:33 Install new tank
3:43 Connect propane and water lines
5:03 Test Run
6:03 Install Door
7:57 Outro - Věda a technologie
you should consider cutting off the excess soft copper gas line. You can get a flexible (accordion-style) section to go between the stub of copper tubing and the heater. The flex line will withstand bending and vibration better than the tubing will.
Thanks for posting this, it helped point me in the right direction...I had to do my wiring a little different, but I got it working. I live in my rv full time, and had this current one for about 3 years...first time in any rv or trailer that I've been able to take a hot shower longer than 5 minutes 🤣 I should have done this a long time ago haha
*You do an excellent job at teaching on all your topics*
We really appreciate it....especially since the world is collapsing and we are running out if time;)
Thanks :) I'm glad it helps
Great video, just what i needed as mine exact same water heater coming in tonight 👌🏼
Thanks for uploading this. You make it look almost easy lol
Sure thing =) It was pretty easy just took me forever with all the distractions at home. It's nice having the tankless water heater.
I installed this same water heater in my motorhome, over a year ago and it works great the best feature for me is I can set the hot water temperature on the control itself for when I shower. That way I don't have to deal with pressure changes since I am hooked up to a well.
You're very talented. Thanks for posting.
Thanks =)
Accidentally disliked it but put thumbs up right now, this video is awesome, good honest review would love to see even a 1 month update I just purchased my first unit, the same one you have and I’m hoping most of the bad reviews on Amazon are from people that are just not understanding how to wire it also, super helpful!!
I'm very glad you liked the video. I will be using the RV a fair amount this summer so I will have more videos and updates. I will also be installing a 120v Mini Split to replace the ceiling mounted AC.
Fantastic video. Thank you so much.
you're welcome :)
I remember when I installed my nest thermostat in my 1976 holiday rambler imperial 5000, it didn't work at first because my camper had a 3-wire system and the nest thermostat required 4 I believe the wire was blue on the thermostat and I needed an ac wall plug with a certain voltage to power that blue wire. They called it a C wire. since I put power to that blue wire my nest thermostat works great maybe that blue wire on your tankless water heater is there for older campers with a 3 wire format. I have yet to install my fogotti tankless water heater that I purchased last season because it is winter where I live. I'm sure once spring gets hear I will install it and see if I need to use that blue wire..
The BLUE wire is connected to the original water heater switch and must be a relay/ground that makes the switch usable. I also had a GREEN wire that served as a ground to the original water heater. I wired them BOTH to the NEG wire of the 12v power duo. The original switch now works as an interior power switch to the unit, the controller for the new unit works now, and the system is working!
nice video.. thanks
In your case you no longer need the bypass line. There’s no way to drain the water. Therefore: you will fill your heater with antifreeze in order to winterize.
Also, these units require a pressure relief valve to be installed on the outlet side.
It seems the pressure relief valve is built in as per the product description: "Fogatti has always thought of you, with a pressure relief valve built into the product, so you don't have to buy and install it separately." Regarding winterizing, you are correct. I have a three way valve in my RV at the outlet the the water pump to bypass the main water holding tank inlet. I connect a hose from that into RV antifreeze container, turn on the water pump which then pumps antifreeze throughout the RV water lines. Water taps are opened one at a time until anti-freeze flows out, replacing water in the lines, closed for the next one to open, then all taps are left open for the winter. The water pump, by its pumping anti-freeze will also then be winterized. Three way valves should be readily available at local RV shops, or Amazon. As an aside, I have a tankless water heater in my summer cabin for which the same winterizing is used and has been perfect for at least 15 years of northern Canadian winters.
@@hunkercreek question, you leave your taps open in the winter or closed? Don’t you have to keep them closed to keep the anti freeze in the pipes?
@@CampHikeSki My experience in Northern Canada, Yukon Territory, winterizing our 5th wheel trailer and researching the topic before hand.....definitely leave all taps open. I do the same with my cabin that is plumbed with an RV 12V water pump from a fresh water holding tank. Here's the logic. I can, but don't drain the water from the line in the cabin but I do in the 5th wheel as there are drains for which I crawl under the trailer and open them to drain, then close them before pumping in antifreeze. Next I operate the three way valve to bypass the fresh water tank(s) which I've drained and put a hose into the container of antifreeze and turn on the pump. All taps are closed at this point. I start with the taps furthest away from the antifreeze so it's getting pumped through the system. I start with either the hot or cold circuit, but do all cold or all hot then switch. I open the first, once a good flow on antifreeze comes out I close the tap then move onto the next tap, open, flow, then close and so on until, for example all hot is done, then move onto the cold. Once the other side of the taps are done, including the tub shower, which I leave the shower head hanging down to drain, I open all taps. Here's your question: Why - any antifreeze, yes, will drain, but then only air is left. No chance of freezing. The pump is the last thing and is will be full of antifreeze and yes, I leave the tap open which was pumping antifreeze from the source container. Air, antifreeze but no water to freeze and break taps or pipes. Frozen water is evil! Expanding ice has cracked 2 inch diameter water pump fittings that I left closed which contained water left in the 2" ball valve. Air, antifreeze. Leave the taps open is my method. Up to you I guess, but get all the water out! Others blow air through their systems to clear out water, but only if there's a definite drain(s) in the lowest possible area. I've had success with my method so continue to use it.
As a Master Jerririgger, I use a coffee can or paint can to bend the copper line.
I enjoyed this video, going to order one today as my tank started leaking last night. I would love to see the video where you smashed your thumb....
Haha ya it didn't feel good smashing my thumb. I figured out how to drain the tankless water heater for winter as well. You need a long skinny flat head screw driver. there is a small tube to the bottom right of the water heater that you stick that into and turn counter clockwise and it will drain the whole tank. Then you can fill it with RV winterizing fluid.
Any issues with this water heater after a year? I'm thinking about buy this one.
My fifth-wheel has pink, orange, brown and green wires.
Um, what goes where?
I just ordered one...curious, will a 1/2 inch female to pex sharkbite work for the hot and cold water connections? I have to redo most my piping for this install.
Update: it does 😄
I have the same system that I recently installed in a shuttle bus conversion. Mine is getting water in from the vent that is going inside the unit, and then leaking into the bus from the metal seams around the outside of the box. Has anyone experienced this problem? It isn't leaking around where it is caulked around the outside.
I just ordered this water heater, however I do not really have a fancy electrical system. All my lights, waterpump and sound system are wired straight to my solar batteries. I live off grid. Am I able to just run the red and black wires directly to the battery terminals? If so which is the positive? The red wire?
On my 5er the blue wire is power back to the wall rocker switch..it powers the red indicator light.
The BLUE wire is connected to the original water heater switch and must be a relay/ground that makes the switch usable. I also had a GREEN wire that served as a ground to the original water heater. I wired them BOTH to the NEG wire of the 12v power duo. The original switch now works as an interior power switch to the unit, the controller for the new unit works now, and the system is working!
Thanks for the video. So helpful! I curious if you’ve encountered a constant relieve valve flowing? Any ideas?
Sorry I haven't. I found where the drain plug is cause I didn't show that in this video but no issues with relief valves sorry.
What type of valve is used in the center
Thanks for choosing Fogatti! It's a great video! How can we contact you for authorization to use this video?
Lame HO on Fogatti. They can’t even e provide there I own DYI install video.
Hi Fogatti, can you send your contact info? I had one installed and it does not work at all. Had second tech company inspect it and they couldn't get it to work either. 800.00 unit plus 5 hours labour and still not working.
You should have a pressure relief valve. Put a tee in the back on the cold inlet
It’s built in.
Anyone know what size fuse the 55k one takes? Ours was bad
What size is your breaker box is it 30 amp
Great video. Do you have a video on how to winterize it and dewinterize it?
I need to make one. But to winterize it you take a long flat head screw driver and put it up the small tube that is located on the bottom right of the heater and turn counter clockwise to drain it. Then fill your RV with RV antifreeze, run the pumps including the hot water system, and then when you see the pink fluid coming out you know it's filled and you close up the drain.
Thank you for this!! This is soooo helpful!
Did you get the Back flow or pressure relief with your unit?? Or just buy it how it comes with the tape and screws?
You're welcome =). I didn't get a back flow or pressure relieve with my unit. I don't think it's required because it's tankless.
@@minutemanprep I saw one guy put one in with supplies he bought from Home Depot. He seemed to think that it’s a must have for safety and maybe he’s right. However in my case I’d have to drill a hole in the floor to give the water somewhere to go and I’d really rather not.
@@minutemanprep e trailer has it listed under the "related parts" tab.
@@minutemanprep in the manual it does say it requires a relief valve but it isn't provided with the tank.
Editing to add- in fact, it also states on the top of the unit "T&P Drain Valve Operation Instructions" on how you need to check the relief valve yearly.
And under that the WARNING says "a combination temperature-pressure relief valve certified to... shall be installed at water outlet."
Stay safe!
@@ashleyhead2617 I'll have to check it again, not sure how I missed that. mine came with a relief valve but didn't see anywhere to add it. I am about to pull out my RV from winter storage and do more upgrades like installing a mini split in it and do more week long trips. Thanks for letting me know.
Quick, but maybe a real dumb question, I'm going to go off grid in a small house and wanted to know if I can use this tankless heater system for my hot water usage...? 😬, remember, i said that it was a dumb question...
I'm sure you could, I don't see why you couldn't. There are lots of small tankless water heater options on the market too even just on Amazon or eBay.
Was there any rime or reason to wiring the controller? I'm not getting power to my controller, but the positive wires to the unit have voltage going through them and the negative wires are hooked up correctly
I don't remember it being tricky, I just followed the user manual.
Hi Mitch, I may have the same problem. Unit just plain does not work. Perhaps a faulty controller?
Unit keeps blowing fuse once we turn on. Also, wires are black and white. Should the unit be grounded?
mine does the same thing, sent it back
What tape did you use on the outside of the unit? Did it come with the water heater? Great video!
Butyl tape. When I got mine I had to add a roll to the cart, it didn't come with the unit.
@@minutemanprep thank you! Plan on doing this soon to my camper.
@@ty_dye That's awesome. This is where I got mine: www.recpro.com/rv-tankless-water-heater-on-demand-hot-water-heater/ If you use this code you'll get a discount: NC6USLB
Mine came with Butyl tape
The blue is the ground wire.
YES!! The BLUE wire is connected to the original water heater switch and must be a relay/ground that makes the switch usable. I also had a GREEN wire that served as a ground to the original water heater. I wired them BOTH to the NEG wire of the 12v power duo. The original switch now works as an interior power switch to the unit, the controller for the new unit works now, and the system is working!
Do you need a bigger propane regulator?
I don't think so. I didn't
connect one of the blue wire to one of the screws on the unit as a ground .
The BLUE wire is connected to the original water heater switch and must be a relay/ground that makes the switch usable. I also had a GREEN wire that served as a ground to the original water heater. I wired them BOTH to the NEG wire of the 12v power duo. The original switch now works as an interior power switch to the unit, the controller for the new unit works now, and the system is working!
Did you figure out what the blue wire is for?
Nope. But the unit works perfectly.
@@minutemanprep I was looking how to install this, and replacing a suburban water heater as well. Mine actually had the 110v hookup on the other side so I was even more confused. From what I can see on the wiring diagram the blue wire goes to a light in the old unit. Great video btw. Clear presentation and view. Mines in the middle so not as easy access to the side like you have lol.
The BLUE wire is connected to the original water heater switch and must be a relay/ground that makes the switch usable. I also had a GREEN wire that served as a ground to the original water heater. I wired them BOTH to the NEG wire of the 12v power duo. The original switch now works as an interior power switch to the unit, the controller for the new unit works now, and the system is working!
Thank you for the video. However, you should install properly. the gas line is problematic,
How about a follow up video to let us know how it's working?
I will once I begin using it again. it's winter so I'm not using my RV but I have more RV videos planned for spring/summer
@@minutemanprep 2 year update?
Did you install a presure relief valve?
No. I wanted to but couldn't figure out how to do it and the instructions don't show how to do it very well.
No issues at all, so far.....