Classic Ford Mustang 1965 1966 1967 1968 Cowl Vent Replacement How to Episode 179 Autorestomod
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- čas přidán 3. 09. 2014
- We dive into a cowl tank replacement on a ’67 Mustang using parts from National Parts Depot and the skill of Mustang Central’s Gary Jackson.
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Jeff Ford Contact:
Jford@autorestomod.com
Sponsor:
www.nationalpartsdepot.com
Parts:
www.nationalpartsdepot.com
’65-’66 Mustang Grille Panel Cowl Vent Upper And Lower
02010-1A
’65-’68 Mustang Grille Panel Cowl Vent Lower 02011-2A
’67-’68 Mustang Grille Panel Cowl Vent Upper 02010-2A
’65-’68 Mustang Cowl Patch Partial Inner Canadian Made
Left: 136-1LH Right: 136-1RH
’67-’68 Mustang Rear Fender Apron Extension
Left: 227-2ALH / Right: 227-2ARH
’65-’66 Mustang Rear Fender Apron Extension
Left: 127-2ALH / Right: 127-2ARH
Tools:
110 volt MIG
Locking C Clamps (at least 10)
32 inch pointed pry bar (2)
Sheet metal screws
Drill
Standard tool set - Auta a dopravní prostředky
NO SEAM SEALER!!!! WHAT!!!! INCREDIBLE!!!! INSANE!!!! YOU GUYS TALKED ABOUT STOPPING LEAKS WITHOUT EVER MENTIONING SEALER!!!!!! GREAT VIDEO PLEASE DON'T FORGET THE SEAM SEALER LOL THOUGH 😁 SEAM SEAL EVERYTHING!!!!! WITH A SEAM FELLAS!!!!!!
Gary is a real workhorse.
Great how to video. :-)
Awesome video, Gary's my best friend and def one of the best guys i know hands down
+Wade Yoder Gary is great! He and Jeff have always had a lot of fun at the shop and Gary has done very well for himself.
Cowl replacement, aka "the Mustang task from (a hot, bad place not in Georgia)" is only for those brave enough (or crazy enough). Gary made it almost look fun. Thanks guys.
GARY RULES!!! GREAT JOB MATE.
How would you paint the inside of the cowl to match the rest of the car or does t have to stay that black primer color"
Thanks Jeff , awesome
I think this is a very helpful video. Thanks.
Lol, Gary is awesome!
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Thanks for putting this video together. Do you suggest POR 15 over ospho? If so, why?
Ospho is for rust removal. The POR15 will need to be applied after Osphoing the area on the body to be welded and before welding on the new tank.
I was going to fix it my self, but I think I’ll just take my car to the shop. I don’t want to mess anything up.
We've helped several folks figure this out. No shame in knowing where "far enough" is. I get there a lot.
Curious to know how many man hours from start to finish?
love the video got an 82.. thought id ask if they similar are to do? My door posts and A pillar are pretty far gone. wish there were other in depth videos like this!
is there anykind of spot weld indicator or location website online?
anything helps!
Not that I know of. The '82 while similar shares no common parts with the '67.
@@AutoRestoMod thanks
hola como estan depinga lo que hacen, tengo un mustang 68 tambien en venezuela. lastima que aqui no hay gente como ustedes y las piezas no se consiguen.me gustaria areclarlo como ustedes lo areclan,,
What do you think of sealing the vents off on a complete solid car. I have vintage air and don't want to relive garys work in the future. Any thoughts
If you mean doing away with the grilles completely that can make for a cool custom look. We have Vintage Air in our '69 wagon and for now retain the vent on the drivers side just so we can pull fresh air into the car--Jeff likes Tex-Mex, but some times it does not like him--so that vent is handy.
AutoRestoMod Yes deleting the grille and filling the cowl with POR 15 or something bullet proof. It's restomod nuff said.
I have to replace the entire cowl assy. for my '69 S code. Is the process any different?
Nope. Bagillion spot welds...
Well, the top part does unbolt..
How to you seal lower panel meets the upper panel at the windshield area, seems like it wood leak with just spot welds?
+Paul P The lower panel us under the windshield gasket and calk is applied there to help the seal.
+AutoRestoMod Muscle Car Resto and Modifications The area that I was talking about is when you have to flip both top & bottom over and weld together before re-installation to weld cowl in 16.35 min on your video! Thanks, great job with all your videos, been a lot of help!
Hmmm if you are talking about the area that sits under the hood, That will get calk as well. Usually that lip on the firewall sits proud of the sandwiched belly pieces.
I watched it twice to realize again what I'm getting myself into in a couple of weeks. I'm a bit nervous to say the least. As a new resto guy, is there anything really costly I can mess up that I should have a pro around for? I chose to do this myself because I want to say I did it, but I don't want my pride to mess too much up, ha. I see that the window measurement is the biggest thing. Also, what about getting a one piece instead of two to alleviate more time welding?
The one piece will be easier to install. Just take your time Scott, you'll be fine!
Gary I know this video is old but I hope you're still monitoring the comments. I recently acquired a 66 Fairlane GT that was just about stripped down to the frame. I have since completely emptied the body and preparing to blast the frame, body, etc. There is a lot of metal work that needs to be done (torque boxes appear to be ok). I will be replacing the upper and lower cowl boxes same as this mustang. I have frame rails that need to be repaired in the rear. Also floor, toe board and firewall needs to be replaced as well. Probably the dash as well as there are rust holes in the lower window channel frame. Knowing all of this, where would be a good place to start? I know removing parts will be crucial to the stability of the car so I was wondering if there is a correct way to go about this? I know about supporting the body with welded supports and possibly checking alignment before starting (once I find the correct info for the car). What would you fix first? Where would you start? Does it make a difference whether you start in the front or rear of the car? Thanks ahead of time Rick
Not really enough space here, contact jeff with some pictures and we can give some recommendations:
jford@autorestomod.com
Did you braze the corners when you were done? If not, how did you fill the gap? No one ever shows that part. Thanks.
+Adam Munger Braze which corners? Most shops ise a MIG welder for the complete operation.
+AutoRestoMod In your video you ground out the brazing where the cowl meets the A pillar. Assume that needs to be replaced or there would be a noticeable seam.
They will usually MIG that and grind the weld smooth then fill it with reinforced body filler.
+AutoRestoMod Thanks. I was thinking lead free solder for a less permanent joint, but hopefully the repair would never need to be done again. Big fan of the videos and look forward to seeing you tackle the Mustang core support as that is in my future too.
+Adam Munger Jeff has had less than stellar luck with lead free solder. Thanks for watching! All we ask is that you share and like, two things that will help us grow!
Why drill out all of the spot welds when you plasma cut....couldn't you just grind that layer of metal down to avoid all of the drilling? Also, what about the underside of the tank...isn't there brackets for the wiper motor and such to spot weld to the tank?
Drilling causes less warping of the metal from either using the air chisel or grinding. It ould take a LOOOONG time to grind down all of the welds as well. The tank comes complete, any brackets than are needed are picked up from the old parts.
Why did you not treat the rust on the front do the dash ?. Putting a new cowl over rust on the vehicle is asking for trouble.
How about a guess on how much this would cost in a body shop. Thanks
That is super hard to do as prices vary by shop, region and often even city. With all the removal, spot weld drilling (over 100 to drill) and weld up, it won't be cheap.
How is that rod called that is used to align the cowl center hole
***** Proto calls it an Alignment Bar or Pry Bar.
@@AutoRestoMod most call it a spud wrench
I wish they made replacement cowls for 69 fairlanes, this video is cake compared to the limited options i have. Looking at $2k estimate in miami to try and salvage rusty cowl.
We are seeing more and more Fairlane stuff coming. But the cowl might be a bit. Even the Aussies don't have one for the Falcon X series cars--and those are like the US Mustangs in popularity.
I got a 66 mustang coupe and need some help with it where to start I have the complete floor out and have to replace the rear torque box
What kind of help? You can contact Jeff at: jford@autorestomod.com
@@AutoRestoMod how and when do I weld the front floor supports that connect to the frame rails
what about bracing the car? i’ve heard you need to put braces before messing with the cowel
We did. That was shown in another episode.
How much would this cost? I need it done.
That will vary by area.
How much would a shop charge to do this job roughly??
I have no idea what the labor rate would be now. Cost of living has skyrocketed.
that Gary is a cool dude
Yes he is.
Mine needs this. But dang what a pain in a fully assembled car.
Yep. sho nuff!
AutoRestoMod Muscle Car Resto and Modifications I think I’ll go with the delete over the replacement. I’ll live with out it.
Where is the water supposed to go?? This is temporary. Why not do it correctly and fix the design flaw?
What does a job like this cost to do?
Depends on your area. Honestly, I would not have a clue even locally here in SC.
Gary,
You put up with a lot of crap when they say work and sign wait. I am a poor signer and I know wait from work! cool video
+Jesse Sanders Gary is a great guy. We mess with him and he throws it right back.
You go Gary...Don't listen to Jeff...
y'know, I'm gonna try the patches first...
Totally get it. This is very involved. Keep in mind what I have run into with patching the floor in the wagon we have, to more I ground and welded, the more I uncovered...
...he actually said wait a second. not get to work. :P
LOL. Can we get you to come with us next time?! =)
AutoRestoMod I'd love to! Wanna pay my plane ticket from the PNW? :P
Propotus HA! I wish we could afford to!
please pray for me. i have this job to do on my daily driver and damn im not looking forward to this. this will be more than a weekend's worth of worki
I is a big job...but if you are patent, you can getter done.
Replacement of a leaking cowl panel is by far the shittiest job on refurbishing an old mustang.
The old 1965 that my son bought for me a few years back is just starting to leak into the interior from the cowl. I elected to buy a plexiglass cover for the vents that are above the top cowl piece. This was $29.99. The car is not a show quality mustang but looks decent and runs good. Just a leaking cowl. Yes, a purist will say the plexiglass looks bad but now NO leaking into the interior from the cowl. If I ever decide to have the engine replaced or rebuilt I may go ahead and have the shop break out the old cowl and replace it. Short of that or unless I get it into a wreck then NO.
Nothing wrong with a stopgap. Lots of those have been used over the years!
you fogot to paint between the two pannels
True. But Mustang Central (when they were still around) woould use a wand and spray POR 15 in the cavity after the work.
I always look forward to your next video. Looking forward to some more Camaro stuff. I had a guy do some sheet metal work on my Camaro. you guys have a room and board so you can come help me put mine together. Lol !
What do you think?
www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=17217&highlight=FNQUIK
SOME sheet metal? Impressive amount of sheet metal work would be more like it! Nice job!
Gary's deaf? No shit No air muffs
Buy a California mustang and you don't have to worry about this.
Honestly...that isn't always true. These cars have been tossed all over the US add to that Cally cars that saw beach time and rust can be an issue.
@@AutoRestoMod
@@AutoRestoMod When I lived in Cal. the beach rust problem was surface rust maybe a mile from the water. Locals told me it was mainly after a heavy fog they would see white flakes of salt on their cars and houses so they would try and hose it off. But I did see cars with surface rust but not like midwest rust thru.