1. True 37s will fit with very minimal trimming to the pinch weld and no trimming to the fenders. You may need a light BMC depending on your UCA choice. 2. Lift height on IFS suspension makes zero difference for tire size fitment. Anything you can fit with a lift, you can also fit at stock ride height. Your friend Kai has a good video explaining why. 3. Wheel backspacing has a much bigger influence on wheel fitment. The magic number is +25. I have the same method wheels you have at +35. But i got some 10mm spacers to reduce it to +25.
A wheel with 0 offset or negative offset would then be even better or are you saying that it gets worse going negative. I figured having a negative offset would help fit larger tires, I also like " deep dish " wheels
@@mirracobiker710 no. You want positive offset. Going negative pushes the tire out, and going too far out means that when your suspension flexes, instead of your tire tucking inside the fenders, it will collide with the fenders. But at the same time, too much positive offset sucks the tires in and under suspension flex your tires can contact the inner fender well or even the frame. As i said, +25 offset is the sweet spot. And if you want deep dish, order a pizza.
Looks great! Stoked! for you. Glad to hear you’re going to address the rear ride height. I have five 705s right now waiting for new 34 X 10:50 X 17 Toyo ATIII to go onto an F150.
Impressive! Why did you step up from 35s? I’m just curious if you felt like you were at a disadvantage off road with the 35s or if this was more fun/looks.
great question, I feel even at 35s, my truck didn’t have the amount of clearance I wanted for it, part of the reason being it’s not lifted too much, only 1.9inch front and 1inch rear. But that’s kinda what I want, I want to be able to fit the largest tires with minimal lift. And tbh I do think 37s look way better on a full size tundra than 35s. In terms of power loss, I didn’t lose much compared to 35s because my 37 wheel/tire combo actually weigh less than the 35 wheel/tire combo.
Awesome video I remember back when you ran the ko2s in the 315*70r17. Funny enough when mine wear out I'm looking to move up to 37s in the ko2 aswell. Surprised how littler rubbing you have but that's due to your wheel offset. Mine just barely rub the bmc but I'm running 0 offset methods. Truck looks great and so much more beefy on 37s. Crazy how even the tundra makes 35s look small. Moving up from 35 to 37 in the ko2s isnt much or a change. I know the difference is something like 5 to 8 pounds which is crazy depending on load rating
when you eventually get UCA have the alignment place aim to get your caster between 3.5-4 this pushes the tire fwd and will give you more clearance against the frame. also that front sway bar is really holding back your suspension, the truck is going to ride 100x better offfroad if you remove that thing.
Excellent video. I just watched Kai’s video the other day and commented about my setup. I have a similar setup and would like to try 37’s. From my measurements and speculation; it should fit without a BMC Currently I have 17” TE37’s on a 315/70 with a +25. 5100 set to the middle setting. The tires are Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac. Next spring I plan on doing the tire upgrade. As it is stored away for the winter. Thanks for confirming the k02 measurements
No problem, with my setup, I have zero rubbing on road, however during the flex/articulation test, I found out that the front tires rub on the body Mount pretty bad under full compression, so a bmc is probably going to be done in the near future lol.
Thanks for the reply. You are very fortunate to have the help from Kai throughout your journey to 37’s. Yes I am sure a small minor BMC is necessary. The drivers side looked pretty close. I had a funny feeling that it may need to a small trim. Please keep us updated.
@@Rydrdg offset is everything with a 315/70 or 35/12.5 and 37 etc I would recommend watching Kai’s channel for an in depth and very thorough look at the specifics of Toyota’s IFS. Attention to other parts needs to be addressed aside from just putting on the wheels and tires. Ensure your UCA ball joints and bushings are in good condition as well your cam tabs are not bent or damaged. SPC makes great cam bolts and you can also purchase after market cam tabs; to ensure your alignment stays consistent and does not get knocked out of spec. I am suggesting this because the Tundra’s power steering rack needs plenty of TLC and can be an expensive and costly replacement; in the event that other parts of the IFS are not in need of servicing / replacement. As mentioned before, Kai’s videos are an excellent reference and very informative
Coming up. Once I get the rear leaf packs for it, then it should have enough proper lift in the back. But if you want, check out other videos of my channel to see it going Offroad on 35 inch tires
Hey man, I love your videos. They're very informative. I am currently in a mishap with my wheel and tire set up. I am now having to sell my Black Rhino Arsenal's 17x9.5 with a 0 offset that are wrapped in 285/70/17 Falken Wildpeak AT4's due to rubbing and I know it's the wheel solely because of the offset and the wheel is wider than most others that I was looking for, I just went for looks instead of function. However, I am currently selling those to get some different ones and I have been looking at some Method's but on your other video of fitting 35's you used a +25m offset wheel and was able to fit 35's on your truck without any major modifications. If I was to go ahead and get a set of method 17's with a +35mm offset and run my 285/70/17 Wildpeaks on them, do you know off the top of your head if they would rub? I want to run 36'/37's at some point anyways, so if I could go ahead and get the wheels to make that happen, that's the way I want to go. Thanks for your help!
Awesome, I appreciate the advice. Just curious, what did you end up doing after this video to run 37's on this build? I know you mentioned rubbing against the body mount in the front, how did you end solving that or did you just leave it? Were there any issues offroading with rubbing against the sway bar and upper control arms?@@4WDisLife
@@dakotarashgolf423 No problem, I didn't do any more work, no body mount chop, the rubbing was so minimal that I didn't experience it for 99.9% offroad it probably rubbed ever so slightly when I am fully turned and reversing and fully flexed out, but that is so rare and I just didn't do anything because it was not worth it to me. my tires stayed clear from uca and sway bar. It was probably one of the best situations to fit 37s in my opinion.
Why did you set you 6112's to 1.9? I have the same shocks about to go into my 2010 tundra but they are set to the top notch, (Most Lift). Why not set at highest ride height?
I want to keep mine as low as possible to retain more of the factory suspension geometry, I didn’t want to put more stress on the cv and other components due to a very tall list. And also 1.9 is more than enough to fit 37s.
+25mm is more popular because there is more options. However, +35mm will provide easier time fitting 37s. Since it’s providing less steering arch, and more space between tires and frame.
is ur driver side is leaning? How did you make it level. I pretty much got same set up. Bilstein 6112 front set it on 2.5 but it’s leaning. Thinking of doin1.9 on the passenger side to make it level
I'm running the same wheel and tire combo on my 2018 Tundra. Black +35 705s and D load 37 KO2s but otherwise the same. Icon adjustable coilovers set at 2.25" of lift. My setup rubs on my sway bar on sharp turns. I couldn't care less but it looked like your setup wasn't anywhere near touching the sway bar?
@@4WDisLife I put one size up tires and it’s throwing off my Speedo. But it’s affecting the VSC, when I take exists on freeway or enter a loop to get in the freeway, my traction control kicks in. It’s scary because I can’t use the breaks it starts skidding. I recalibrated the yaw sensor under the armrest, didn’t help. I did the ZPC, no luck. I need some professional. I can’t be the only one leveling the truck with slightly one size up on tires.
@@dogukan7532I think if all four tires the same size then it shouldnt trigger the stability. I personally have not hear anything like that with going up in tire size.
@@4WDisLifeDo you remember how much space was between your tire sidewall and the upper control arm? I have SPC uppers, worried +35mm will run too close…
Hey thanks for the shout out! Now we need to flex it off-road lol
Thank you for creating this video. This is exactly what I've been looking for!
Glad to help!
1. True 37s will fit with very minimal trimming to the pinch weld and no trimming to the fenders. You may need a light BMC depending on your UCA choice.
2. Lift height on IFS suspension makes zero difference for tire size fitment. Anything you can fit with a lift, you can also fit at stock ride height. Your friend Kai has a good video explaining why.
3. Wheel backspacing has a much bigger influence on wheel fitment. The magic number is +25. I have the same method wheels you have at +35. But i got some 10mm spacers to reduce it to +25.
A wheel with 0 offset or negative offset would then be even better or are you saying that it gets worse going negative. I figured having a negative offset would help fit larger tires, I also like " deep dish " wheels
@@mirracobiker710 no. You want positive offset. Going negative pushes the tire out, and going too far out means that when your suspension flexes, instead of your tire tucking inside the fenders, it will collide with the fenders.
But at the same time, too much positive offset sucks the tires in and under suspension flex your tires can contact the inner fender well or even the frame.
As i said, +25 offset is the sweet spot.
And if you want deep dish, order a pizza.
Who is Kai? is there a video?
@@videostar2528 kai from the tinkerer's adventure CZcams channel.
Can I get away with 0 offset I really want to do 37 and don’t want to buy new wheels
So cool you are friends with Kai! Wish my FJC was like his!
Those 705’s are exactly the wheels I want!
They sure got a good look
Looks great! Stoked! for you. Glad to hear you’re going to address the rear ride height. I have five 705s right now waiting for new 34 X 10:50 X 17 Toyo ATIII to go onto an F150.
Yea man. The rear ride height has been addressed and you could see the new stance in my latest videos.
I love my local mom & pop versus these guys. They sell u tires twice the price. Heck, even America Tire's have cheaper tire prices
Thanks for the in depth explanation. Nice truck too.
You bet, thanks for the comment!
Impressive!
Why did you step up from 35s?
I’m just curious if you felt like you were at a disadvantage off road with the 35s or if this was more fun/looks.
great question, I feel even at 35s, my truck didn’t have the amount of clearance I wanted for it, part of the reason being it’s not lifted too much, only 1.9inch front and 1inch rear. But that’s kinda what I want, I want to be able to fit the largest tires with minimal lift. And tbh I do think 37s look way better on a full size tundra than 35s. In terms of power loss, I didn’t lose much compared to 35s because my 37 wheel/tire combo actually weigh less than the 35 wheel/tire combo.
Excellent!
37's are the neo 35's
Everything looks and performs better.
VERY cool! Thank you for all the detailed info! This will be a tremendous help on my journey.
Thank you for the comment man. I try!
Thanks for posting this. It looks great.
Any advice on the max tire size with a similar lift but stock offset?
Thanks ✌️
I'd say stock offset wheels, you have to worry about the width of the tire to avoid touching the upper control arm and front sway bar.
@@4WDisLife I should have mentioned stock (275) width as well.
Max diameter?
Awesome video I remember back when you ran the ko2s in the 315*70r17. Funny enough when mine wear out I'm looking to move up to 37s in the ko2 aswell. Surprised how littler rubbing you have but that's due to your wheel offset. Mine just barely rub the bmc but I'm running 0 offset methods. Truck looks great and so much more beefy on 37s. Crazy how even the tundra makes 35s look small. Moving up from 35 to 37 in the ko2s isnt much or a change. I know the difference is something like 5 to 8 pounds which is crazy depending on load rating
Yea man. The ko2 in load range C is surprisingly light so it works
when you eventually get UCA have the alignment place aim to get your caster between 3.5-4 this pushes the tire fwd and will give you more clearance against the frame. also that front sway bar is really holding back your suspension, the truck is going to ride 100x better offfroad if you remove that thing.
Appreciate the info. Not planning on doing ucas nor looking for more flex in the front since I drives on road most other times.
Excellent video.
I just watched Kai’s video the other day and commented about my setup.
I have a similar setup and would like to try 37’s. From my measurements and speculation; it should fit without a BMC
Currently I have 17” TE37’s on a 315/70 with a +25. 5100 set to the middle setting. The tires are Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac.
Next spring I plan on doing the tire upgrade. As it is stored away for the winter.
Thanks for confirming the k02 measurements
No problem, with my setup, I have zero rubbing on road, however during the flex/articulation test, I found out that the front tires rub on the body Mount pretty bad under full compression, so a bmc is probably going to be done in the near future lol.
Thanks for the reply. You are very fortunate to have the help from Kai throughout your journey to 37’s.
Yes I am sure a small minor BMC is necessary. The drivers side looked pretty close. I had a funny feeling that it may need to a small trim.
Please keep us updated.
17x8.5 or 9?
@@Rydrdg 17x9
@@Rydrdg offset is everything with a 315/70 or 35/12.5 and 37 etc
I would recommend watching Kai’s channel for an in depth and very thorough look at the specifics of Toyota’s IFS.
Attention to other parts needs to be addressed aside from just putting on the wheels and tires. Ensure your UCA ball joints and bushings are in good condition as well your cam tabs are not bent or damaged. SPC makes great cam bolts and you can also purchase after market cam tabs; to ensure your alignment stays consistent and does not get knocked out of spec.
I am suggesting this because the Tundra’s power steering rack needs plenty of TLC and can be an expensive and costly replacement; in the event that other parts of the IFS are not in need of servicing / replacement.
As mentioned before, Kai’s videos are an excellent reference and very informative
Awesome.. but how much positive caster is on that bad boy? I run 6” lift and 37s and had to BMC to the moon 😅
Nothing, the alignment spec is within stock range.
Very nice. What's your current gearing? 4.1 or towing pkg 4.3s? How do the brakes feel?
4.3 stock gearing ratio. brakes feel a little weak compared to stock but that is expected and manageable
I wanna see it hit the trails
Coming up. Once I get the rear leaf packs for it, then it should have enough proper lift in the back. But if you want, check out other videos of my channel to see it going Offroad on 35 inch tires
Thoughts, I'm putting 285/17R70 on 17x9 XD series by KMC -12 offset 5:52 5:52
Please let us know if you feel that you need to re-gear. Thx
so far i think it’s fine, you just have to be realistic with it, to my needs, it’s a truck and I am okay with doing and keeps my 65mph on the highway.
Hey man, I love your videos. They're very informative. I am currently in a mishap with my wheel and tire set up. I am now having to sell my Black Rhino Arsenal's 17x9.5 with a 0 offset that are wrapped in 285/70/17 Falken Wildpeak AT4's due to rubbing and I know it's the wheel solely because of the offset and the wheel is wider than most others that I was looking for, I just went for looks instead of function. However, I am currently selling those to get some different ones and I have been looking at some Method's but on your other video of fitting 35's you used a +25m offset wheel and was able to fit 35's on your truck without any major modifications. If I was to go ahead and get a set of method 17's with a +35mm offset and run my 285/70/17 Wildpeaks on them, do you know off the top of your head if they would rub? I want to run 36'/37's at some point anyways, so if I could go ahead and get the wheels to make that happen, that's the way I want to go. Thanks for your help!
+35mm would be even less prone to rub due to its closer to stock offset (+60mm), and I think you would have zero rubbing problems with 28/70r17.
Awesome, I appreciate the advice. Just curious, what did you end up doing after this video to run 37's on this build? I know you mentioned rubbing against the body mount in the front, how did you end solving that or did you just leave it? Were there any issues offroading with rubbing against the sway bar and upper control arms?@@4WDisLife
@@dakotarashgolf423 No problem, I didn't do any more work, no body mount chop, the rubbing was so minimal that I didn't experience it for 99.9% offroad it probably rubbed ever so slightly when I am fully turned and reversing and fully flexed out, but that is so rare and I just didn't do anything because it was not worth it to me. my tires stayed clear from uca and sway bar. It was probably one of the best situations to fit 37s in my opinion.
Awesome, I'll keep that in mind for the future. Thanks! @@4WDisLife
Why did you set you 6112's to 1.9? I have the same shocks about to go into my 2010 tundra but they are set to the top notch, (Most Lift). Why not set at highest ride height?
I want to keep mine as low as possible to retain more of the factory suspension geometry, I didn’t want to put more stress on the cv and other components due to a very tall list. And also 1.9 is more than enough to fit 37s.
Hows your ride quality with your lift? How many inch total lift with your setup? Thank you
Rides good. 1.9inch front and 3inch rear
@@4WDisLife does that make it like a 3 inch lift? Kind of a leveled or a little bit of a higher rear? Thank you
I feel like toyotas are always closer on the driver side for some reason.
thats interesting. Do you think it maybe due to driver side lean and being slightly lower causing it to be closer to the rear most point of the tire?
That sure sounds about right...@@4WDisLife
Do I think stock wheels would allow for a 35 in tires . I believe they are + 60 . I have a 2012 Tundra
Yes but they will most likely rub on uca.
from reading all the tundra forums i had always thought that +25 was the ideal offset for 37's, is there a reason you went +35?
+25mm is more popular because there is more options. However, +35mm will provide easier time fitting 37s. Since it’s providing less steering arch, and more space between tires and frame.
Does this cause issues in rear under extreme articulation with top of wheel rubbing bed frame?
@@lonelydriver82it probably would be true regardless of the 25mm vs 35mm. But with the extended bump stop, is should be fixed.
Look forward to seeing you test it out on the trail!
@@lonelydriver82thanks man. Me too. If u want to watch the tundra off-road don 35s there’s plenty of videos on my channel. Welcome to check them out
is ur driver side is leaning? How did you make it level. I pretty much got same set up. Bilstein 6112 front set it on 2.5 but it’s leaning. Thinking of doin1.9 on the passenger side to make it level
Mine doesn’t have a lot of leaning also due to I added two of those shims when installed
@@4WDisLife thank you
Not regeared? Did you notice a difference sizing up?
Slight bit of difference compared to 35s. But not significant
Suspension lift bro is better 😂
yep, the best kind there is.
I'm running the same wheel and tire combo on my 2018 Tundra. Black +35 705s and D load 37 KO2s but otherwise the same. Icon adjustable coilovers set at 2.25" of lift. My setup rubs on my sway bar on sharp turns. I couldn't care less but it looked like your setup wasn't anywhere near touching the sway bar?
Do you have a stock bumper or aftermarket?
@@BobbyV4M C4 fab bumper up front
That’s weird maybe your stock sway at is a bit more beefy?
Thought they were all the same size but got me, maybe it is
Did you have the VSC problem after lift / bigger tires during turns???
What’s the vsc problem? I didn’t have any problems
@@4WDisLife I put one size up tires and it’s throwing off my Speedo. But it’s affecting the VSC, when I take exists on freeway or enter a loop to get in the freeway, my traction control kicks in. It’s scary because I can’t use the breaks it starts skidding. I recalibrated the yaw sensor under the armrest, didn’t help. I did the ZPC, no luck. I need some professional. I can’t be the only one leveling the truck with slightly one size up on tires.
@@dogukan7532I think if all four tires the same size then it shouldnt trigger the stability. I personally have not hear anything like that with going up in tire size.
@@4WDisLife All same size. They’re 34.5s front have 3 inch leveling kit one an inch on rear. Thank you for getting back tho!
Do you have the 4.3 rear axle gear ratio? Do you have to regear for 37s?
Yes. Stock 4.3 rear. I didn’t feel the need to regear but that’s just me
What happened to your MPG from 35 to 37?
Didn’t go down by much. Probably seen a 1-1.5mpg drop in city and less on highway.
@@4WDisLife Cool. I may try it on m 23 Tundra but with the KO3s.
Does it rub at all when the tires are aired down?
Not at all
What is the offset of the method rims you're using?
+35mm offset
What about re-gearing?
Didn’t feel like the need for me.
Pinch weld mod? Do they stuff the fenders pretty bad when articulating?
not in my case. I can Offroad and it rubs just slightly at full turn and compression.
@@4WDisLife Thanks for the reply!
@@4WDisLifeDo you remember how much space was between your tire sidewall and the upper control arm? I have SPC uppers, worried +35mm will run too close…
@@benitotrujillo8158it clears my stock uca no problem. Not sure about the spc ucas tho.
@@4WDisLife I know in the video you guys say it’s about an inch of clearance, but did you ever take an actual measurement?
No bmc, no rubbing... could it be bcause u have no OEM front bumper. 😅
Well oem front bumper helps clear the front of the tires but it has nothing to do rubbing on the body mount which is in the rear of the front tires.
How does it drive?
37 ko2 drives amazingly well, compared to my 35 MT tires.
If you really want real measurements buy toyos or nitto tires
I don’t. And I kinda prefer the under sized tires since they fit better
How to fit 37's... put on 36's... okay
Tbf, every tire measures out differently. So it’s case by case