DANGEROUS to Drive! Ram Camper Van STALLS After Hot Soak - Part 2
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- čas přidán 13. 09. 2024
- With the help of the wonderful Snap-On Verus, we can actually diagnose this Ram Camper Stalling problem right from the driver's seat!
We might even be able to FIX IT right from the driver's seat!
Enjoy!
Ivan
The power of a good scan tool is only as good as the tech who knows how to use it and knows what it is telling him. You are a diagnostic magician. Your videos are so informative. Appreciate you.
I remember when ford throttle body cleaners were very specific, use the wrong cleaner and it would remove the protective coating, then the fun begins. nice video Ivan
That was unexpected. Dirty throttle bodies present differently. Good outcome for your client, your knowledge base and ours also. Thanks Ivan.
Good fix Ivan, I will bet “ off camera” you went back , removed the air cleaner “stud” really cleaned the plates, removed IAC & cleaned the valve & seat ! That my friend would be 100% fix ! Thanks for your thinking process,,, you are very good at what you do! Have a nice day!
I called it 2 minutes into part 1!! I had a lot of time with GM TBI (including tuning) so assuming Mopar uses a similar IAC strategy, it was immediately obvious. I would still pull the IAC and clean that port out, too. Of course this particular issue was not really present on GM TBI because fuel kept the TB clean. They have a similar min airflow test but on my Caprice the min airflow was like 450 rpm. The reason for the funny behavior is simply because the PCM sets idle mode up to some small TPS %. Like below 2% or something. So it's possible to crack the throttle open and the IAC will try to command idle. This is normally fine because the counts are much lower with a clean TB.
Bingo!
Huh good point that TBI is self cleaning 😁👌
I think I would have got that one right too, without any scan tools. But, I would have no idea what specifically would have been the fix. I would have removed the whole thing and cleaned it outside the vehicle.
Ivan, these are the vans I worked on for many years, a fleet of them, except there were inmates in the back instead of campers, and we ran 360ci engines and the larger 32-35 gallon gas tank. Never had the issue you had, but I was cleaning the TB at every tune up, which for me was 30k miles. This is also the van you’ll have a fuel pump volume at running pressure problem. For me I’d start seeing then at around 150-160k miles. And the symptom was loss of power when accelerating. Now these guys were hard on the trucks, so the symptom was showing under full throttle when going thru 3rd hear (4sp auto). The test was a mechanical FP gauge from under the dog house and just watch it while full throttle up thru the gears, and you’d see the pressure start to drop off in 3rd. The engine ran normally other than that. Now most normal owners won’t likely encounter the issue that way, only when the issue gets worse I’d suspect. These guys never had to worry about getting pulled over so these vans got ridden harder.
And here, I was expecting the IAC plunger to be gummed up and sticking inside it's bore. You know, it wouldn't hurt anything to clean that too since your already in there. Just for added piece of mind. But nice work Ivan. A great example of why it's important to change your engine air filter and PCV regularly.
The basics strike again! This is a few videos in a row where the basics are the cause. Fun dive in as always and love going along.
Bonus: NPR to boot!
Tip. Daughter used to have an older Dakota with V6 that had the dirty throttle body problem every so often where it would not idle when she came to a stop at normal oper. temp.
Solution was to pop air cleaner off and use some carburetor cleaner on an old toothbrush to scrub out the bores on the throttle body. Idled perfect after a good cleaning! Had to do this every so often to keep engine & daughter happy...
From the start of the first video, I was asking myself…”where is the basic visual inspection?”. In my mind, any idle problem would start with a visual inspection of the air intake, filter and throttle body. That dirty throttle body would have been seen immediately and a 10 minute cleaning would have fixed the problem. And in the case that it didn’t, a clean throttle body would aid further troubleshooting. Sometimes, getting the scanner out can lead you down a convoluted path when a basic visual inspection is all that is needed. Great instructional video nonetheless.
Thought the same along these lines. Too quick to grab the scanner. But hey, might be the new normal. :-))
Me too. Go back to part one see my comment .. AL WARD 👍
Ivan can do those things any time but he has a specific "style" to his youtube channel where he tries to deduce mechanical problems logically based on scanner data, oscilloscopes, and test lights first.
Ich liebe ivan's diagnosen, muß dir aber zu 100% recht geben.ein scan tool erleichtert mir evt. die arbeit aber nicht die problemlösung.bei komplizierten situationen hilft nur das scope.aber unbesehen , wie du sagst eine einfache sichtprüfung ist oftmals der schlüssel zum erfolg. Lg.
No disrespect but it sounds like you don't do diagnostic work. You should never touch anything other then a scan tool when diaging. You need to gather information because its easy to fix something accidentally only for it to act up again later. After your informations gathered and you have a strong case then you go after the subjected part. Ivan played it right and safe here. Not only did he find the problem he can be confident in the repair by scan tool data. You would only be guessing by cleaning the throttle body. If it worked you couldn't be certain it was the throttle body.
The IAC is probably also partially clogged. The computer is expecting a certain amount of bypass air for a given step count. This old system isn't as adaptive as new systems, and it's just hard coded in. I'd clean the IAC, and if you still can't get a 625 RPM base idle, I'd open the throttle plate screw to get there. By resetting this baseline, you give the car it's wiggle room back, so it won't need cleanings as frequently.
yeah, the best fix is pull the throttle body clean everything thoroughly, new gasket/s. pretty common issue on that engine platform, also clogged pcv system.
camper engines live a rough life moving the weight around and always coke up faster.
Wow, totally unexpected!! Dirty throttle body!! Could you have taken it off and really clean it good? That's what I'd do though. But freaking awesome video on that!! Great job Ivan, plus side, NPR fixes rules!!
No need to go to the extra time and expense of totally removing it. The problem was clearly a buildup causing restricted airflow in the gap between the butterfly valve blade and the side of the throttle body bore. Those spots are easily and quickly cleaned the way Ivan did it.
Had he removed the throttle body he would risk tearing the gasket between it and the intake manifold and who knows what else. And it wouldn’t have ended up running any better.
Yeah luckily an easy NPR fix for a weird symptom...
But what does the IAC air circuit look like? On my old car, it was important to clean the pintle on the IAC. I suspect if that was cleaned, the minimum airflow RPM test would haven't have caused a stall.
Wow, what a find this minimum air flow RPM test was. Well done Ivan.
I never fail to learn good stuff here. Really enjoyed the process.
I wish there was a competition on this stuff, Ivan is the best there is.
I had a similar issue with my 2000 Jeep WJ with the JTech PCM, six years ago. Voltage to the IAC was all over the place. Turned out to be the IAC driver in the PCM. Had to settle for a reman PCM for $150 bucks but haven't had a problem since.
Increase in experience. Never too old to learn. More brains less spanners and parts. Well done.
Based on the customer's description your thought process was spot on good job.
Got to love those NPR videos.. I probably would have also taken the IAC off and clean the bore and pintel.
Well done, Ivan. I'll admit, I wouldn't have guessed a dirty throttle body could cause that severe of an issue. I was thinking, in the back of my mind, bad engine computer because of the age of the van, and maybe some solder joints had cracked over the years. Happy it wasn't!
After you found solid info to support your findings. People are criticism that you found that first
Its wild seeing the back of the engine like that. For anyone thats ever changed the disto/button/plug wires on a magnum engine, you know that makes life easier.
Diagnostics as an intellectual pursuit. Well done Ivan!
Only 150k subscribers, how is that possible when there are people with far less ability with several times that, regardless keep up the good work.
Maybe it has something to do with the Trump flag hanging in my garage haha
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics who knows, I just find it really odd. I've learned CZcams can do some things that skew channel popularity and growth. Yeah I recall someone in the comments getting upset over your Trump flag lol.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnosticsWouldn’t be surprised.
Tell 'em to put a new air filter in it! ;)
Interesting fix! Yeah, that Snap On scanner is the bee's knees for sure!
I have to wonder if the mechanical idle adjustment needed to be just a tiny bit more open to drive the idle counts down a bit in order to successfully run the min-idle test? Just a thought.
It's been my experience on throttle bodies with an IAC setup to not only clean the throttle bore but also the air passage for the IAC. It's the same air flowing through there so logical if the throttle bore gets dirty, so will the IAC bore. Makes for a more thorough and complete job.
Awesome diagnosis.
Very nice that all the info was available. The information about minium airflow was critical.
I love how snap on keeps the data pids also My most used tool is the snap on verus Edge Ivan I also love the graphing and the color contrast with the black so much easier to see then say the autels with the grey backgrounds @Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics
Our 2002 Honda 2.0l petrol i-VTEC stalled with an dirty IAC valve - cleaned it up and runs perfectly.
Very intriguing problem for sure Ivan @Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics
Ivan had this problem with a Nissan VG 33 engine what I discovered was after a hot soak the aluminum throttle plate would expand and reduce closed throttle air flow to the point where I could feel the plate slightly sticking in the bore only when hot this engine has a heated throttle body using the 195 deg coolant water so the "butterfly" would get quite hot
The fix was to adjust the idle stop screw slightly until I didn't feel it sticking anymore and the problem went away
The adjusting screw is never recommended to adjust but if it worked for you, that's great. On a customers car, it should never be done as they are calibrated during assembly.
@@scientist100
Yeah I know but it's a 22 year old Nissan Quest and the base idle screw gets worn off after banging together that long making that factory adjustment no longer accurate 🤔
No parts required jobs are always nice especially for the customer she just needed a bit of cleaning nice find Ivan @Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics
I forgot about these vans. The 97 van pool vans we had, all had that same problem.
My fix was first clean the throttle plates and bores. Remove t.b. if necessary to thoroughly clean.
Reinstall assembly, set iac to off or closed. Using throttle, start and run engine to operating temp, all accessories off.
If engine won't idle at or close to 600 RPM's, turn the minimum idle screw about one half turn so screw is against throttle tang and start engine.
Let it run about one minute. If it won't idle at 600 RPM turn screw about one half turn again.
The engine should start and run now. You may have to hold the throttle down a little then let up so your seeing 600 RPM now. With the engine running adjust the min idle screw to 650 RPM.
Turn ign switch off and reset IAC, so it will now function.
Start engine. It may take a few seconds for the PCM to learn the idle now.
With the engine running turn on all accessories. Push on the throttle and release. Computer should be able to maintain idle without stalling. Put trans in drive, normal idle should be maintained.
Put trans in park, turn off accessories, turn off ignition. Your done.
You may have to clear codes.
This seems like a long fix/adjust but it goes quick. Results were great! Drivers were happy.
Surprising ending! Great diagnostic, Ivan! I was expecting something a bit more awkward, but NPR is always the best :-)
If I saw this correctly, the engine stalled during the minimum air flow test. Therefore, a throttle stop adjustment is needed to bring the engine to a minimum RPM/AIR FLOW spec...almost fixed ;-) I have done this many times on older Chryslers, many years ago. This also assumes the PCV system is functioning properly....Good logic and video, as always!
Once it fully warmed up it would hold 600rpm 👍
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I have also seen PCV problems cause idle control issues..Ie: collapsed vacuum hoses, wrong/stuck PCV valves, etc. You are still the best I have seen,,,learning everyday!
Going back years and years we seen similar issues on early 3800 as people would manually rev from inside engine bay and allow throttle to snap back against base idle set screw and cause some deflection or bending if you like then as build up on throttle plate became more than IAC could compensate for this would happen and the fact they hadn't touch for a time convinced them it was nothing they did but the cars fault, even though GM had a procedure for testing and setting base idle we would just remove intake ducting at TB and place finger slowly over passage and check base idle speed every service when replacing air filter so we never had issues for regular customers, eventually GM hardened the linkage to reduce deflection, over time we learnt to clean TB,s and IAC passages regularly too
I might have thought of dirty throttle body for stalls at idle, but the heat soak component distracted me from that. I was trying to think of an electronic component or connection that might break when it heats up.
That puzzles me as well. Perhaps a touch of vapor lock given that there's no gas return line?
Goid repair. The old Foxelli lamp continues to prove useful. I just used mine during hurricane Fiona!😁
Taking a Chrysler vehicle on a long trip is akin to taking a leaking boat across a large body of water, they better have the top of the line AAA towing service,. My first thought it being a mopar was their old problem of vapor lock rearing its head again, I can't tell you how times our old Newport left us waiting until the fuel stopped boiling so we could proceed with our trip, my mother would get so mad and me as a little kid would get cranky, we didn't have electronic devices to keep us occupied, one time we were almost home coming from down the shore when it just died, my father pulled over, a nice NJ state trooper came by but there was nothing that could be done except wait like we always did. When we got the 1970 lesabre those days were a thing of the past and it had air conditioning and a radio neither of which the 65 Newport had.
no parts required.....i see this in the gm trucks all the time. great vid as always ivan
Wow. That final diag never would have crossed my mind
Ivan you should clean the plunger on the valve it gets dirty those valve are very temperamental
S tier mechanic.
Special abilities: Diagnostics (S), Spray Cleaning (All types) (S), ...
Special weapons: Scan tool (S), Test Lights (S), Electronics Cleaner (A), Break Clean (9001), ...
I have the verus pro got it from eBay and previous owner upgraded SSD and 500gb memory, pretty fast haha I love it
Iworked on an older Buick and fount the IAC air path was clogged with black gunk. Cleaned it and all was good.
Glad you got it fixed, but I have to wonder if your scanners sent you down a rabbit hole? It seems like TB cleaning would have been a pre-parts canon ritual for many shadetrees. And yes, I'd expect a dirty TB to cause idle problems because that's when the dirt makes a difference. I am curious about why the hot soak made it come out. Hot idle, I can understand.
Windows XP one of their best operating platforms ever.
My wife as my witness I said clean the throttle body on the first video. Proof even an broken clock is right twice a day. But still it was good to follow the data.
Called it. Nice job.
Man it needed a new air filter as well.
this video broke my heart i own several dodges with same t-body and have cleaned many it is impossible to really clean the t-body on one of these trucks with it bolted on the vehicle on a pickup with room much less a van you can't see good. i understand it worked but just think how much better job could have been done by removing the t-body and really clean. You let me down on this one!
Lol the spray and wipe method worked perfectly fine here. Why waste time being a perfectionist when the results are the same? 😅
15:56 the issue is that the IAC algorithm isn't just a closed loop, the interaction with the throttle is quite clever, and contains some hidden assumptions (e.g. that closing the IAC valve down to 30 odd counts won't stall the engine), so it MOSTLY compensates for the dirty throttle body, except in specific circumstances.
Nice work! Windows XP? just as old as that van! Made for each other. If it was my van, I'd probably remove the throttle body and give it a good good soaking.. Thanks Ivan!
Snap on still selling software for this outdated scanner that they dont support the hardware on. Some people have had issues after an update and they brick the device and then force you to buy their newer models. I have the 18.2 and it may stay there for the rest of its life.
I was going to say IAC. I had to clean my Toyota every year along with throttle body and it was good after that and rpm’s came back to 700ish from 100-200.
i found my problem with the proper scanner too. I seems that sn overflowing ash tray and an old mcdonalds hamburger wrapper had plugged my converter and gave me a case of intermittent 💣 Explosive diarehha. A gallon of fresh squeezed prune juice and a bowl of chilli every 20 minutes... good as new and fresh as a daisy.
PRICELESS
People have been pouring Sea Foam in Jeep 4.0 intakes for as long as there's been a 4.0.
Cleans things right out, including the IAC as at idle it'll get sucked right through those small passages.
It sounded like the A/C compressor was cycling. Did you turn it off during the min. airflow test? That additional load would definitely stall the engine with IAC closed. Cool find on that classic and great you helped them out with no parts required.
AC Compressor even cycles in full heat mode with defrost active to remove moisture from the cab and help keep the windshield clear.
You're right Ivan, I did call it! You're the best, I've learned so much from you, so pat yourself on the back for me! Lol!
Great format to divide into a Part 1 and 2 to give all a chance to 'chance' the outcome likelihood.
My chance bet was a ECM problem and wrong!
Without a Scan tool you wouldn't know for sure, Ivan has the Facts to prove that Cleaning actually changes the data and control behavior coming from the ECM, Nice Completed job as Usual, After about 20 years of this work You should be able to make different types of engines and brands work with each other like as in engine and transmission swaps between brands, Yes I know people already do this but Ivan will do something Really impressive yet Can't wait, O and He already has check out some of his other work, And No I have never met or talked to this Content Creator. 😎👍.
I was a Chrysler - Dodge mechanic for about 12 years. In the 90's we saw this issue almost daily. You really need to clean the T-Body good and remove the IAC to clean its needle and seat. If they get really dirty a new IAC may be needed.
Sold car parts for 20 years 82- 02 your right its not fixed yet need to be cleaned. To remove air cleaner cover sometimes you have to remove that center bolt. IAC can stick open if dirty making it run lean .
Yep, cleaning the throttle body on early 200X GM Trailblazers is a known simple procedure to perform every 50-75k miles or so. Always good to perform BEFORE identifying other issues.
I remember Nissan used similar set up. The idle settings where 33% open. adjustable
I have experienced this with Chryslers of the era... 1990s. A dirty throttle body can cause it, but using a throttle body from a different model year or different engine seems to have the throttle stop screws calibrated differently. I drove a car with such an idle problem for several years and finally adjusted the throttle stop screw and the problem went away. In this particular scenario, the throttle body was not original. I noticed that if I barely hit the throttle, it would rev up a couple hundred RPM and if held there, the "ais motor" as Chrysler called it would bring it back to it's target idle RPM. At that point, if the throttle was released, it could stall.
Further research years later revealed that with these Chryslers, the "IAC" valve is logically used as a last resort option to adjust idle speed. Most of it is done with fuel mixture and spark advance, so they will not learn and adapt an IAC position to compensate for stuff. IAC position is mostly used for startup and cold engine operation.
At first you wouldn't consider the IAC "functions" to be an issue however, the IAC and the computer are set to perform under "predetermined conditions" meaning as that soot builds up, the conditions are changing so at some point, that soot "does not compute". I have an 89 GMC TBI with the same basic concerns especially because its a PROM and has much less leeway when there are changes such as this soot. The base idle setting by the screw is to prevent the throttle plate from closing too much however, if the idle is slowing down almost to the minimum base setting by IAC, some folks will adjust the base idle to prevent that which in turn screws up the normal conditions of the IAC and creates a high idle. Clean bores are apparently rather important with older computer systems.
Maintenance goes a long way
The Snap-On was built to use on the 90's and up, I can see how well it works on that Dodge, and other American made auto's of that time.
Dude, after visual inspection that air filter was a top suspect :)
Love your videos and especially that trump sing in the garage!
My 1999 ram 1500 5.2l van sometimes shuts off braking or coasting . when it cools
( 10 minutes )starts and drives normal.
Notice the gauges don’t work too.
Done the relay ASR switch. Didn’t fix it?
Always love your videos ever since I saw you with Eric O years ago.
Jelly too, about your neighbor friends traveling too Arizona desert I bet
I have faith in Ivan. I just know he ultimately adjusted the throttle stop so that the RPM would be 650 during the minimum airflow rpm test.
That bonus footage could be worn linkage in the IAC
Interesting diagnostic testing and researching. But it seems in the end, the problem was not totally solved. The engine still would die. Just not as often or quickly. Was additional throttle body cleaning and testing done before returning this to the customer, and if so, did the performance of the IAC improve the hot idle further?
By the way, this appears to be a very very nice van overall and in outstanding physical, cosmetic and mechanical condition and well worth the investment in the diagnostic and repair. A very good value for the money spent. ❤
It stalled because it wasn't fully warmed up...once hot it would hold 600rpm as specified :)
You know you have to break out the DRB 3 working on the old mopars. But the snap on scanners do well on the older vehicles, I have a modis that you have to change the pin card on the dlc, wow I’m old. That’s a sweet van though, don’t see the b vans any more.
My Fords do the same, clean the throttle body first, funny used to do the same on old carbs too……
I find it interesting that you assumed the computer would fully control the isle speed, it shows your young age. In the early days of AC and PS you were lucky if you got an isle up solinoid. When the first IAC valves came out they were seen as an improvement on the idle up valves and cold start valves of the past. Base idle was still set like it had always been with the throttle stop screw.
In the past car designers were very conservative when they introduced computer control and often left the old principles in place. Take a look at a 90s Honda, they have three idle valves showing the engineers distrust of computer control.
I wouldn't of thought right off the bat the throttle body being dirty especially with the warm start and it being sporadic Ivan @Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics
Very cool! Thank you for your awesome videos. 👍👍👍
"BONUS FOOTAGE"
(ad for TikTok begins) 😉
Very nice, I was not thinking dirty throttle body
You have a electrician mindset but not a experienced mechanical mindset. I had a 87 mustang gt that had same problem. I never owned a scan tool but i can listen and sense what a motor is doing. At first i thought air vacuum leak but i would have checked throttle body then last would be to check with scan tool.
Actually it's a scientific mindset. I want to gather data (not just numbers... Can be feel, smell, sound etc) before touching anything. Then make a hypothesis, perform an experiment and record changes. This is the ONLY approach that works every time with guaranteed results 😉
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics He is just a part changer haha
Makes me think the throttle body is gummed up and causing it to stick and causing the Tps information and positioning to be off causing the IAC steps dropping to low Ivan @Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics
As I wrote on part 1 basics basics basics. The engine now flairs when starting. Cleaning the whole induction system is also probably needed and clean IAC passages. Simple test is look for idle flare when starting. If no flare fix the induction system problem. It has to flare hot or cold.
Maybe you already know this, Ivan, but FYI on these vehicles you have to remove the air cleaner hold-down screw from the center of the throttle body before you will have enough room to move the bottom of the air cleaner.
The intake pipe was holding it back... Decided to leave it alone lol
*** NEVER ASSUME ALL MANUFACTURERS USE THE EXACT SAME CONTROL ALGORITHM *** !!!!!!
The Ford IAC algorithm works very different. I wants ZERO AIR FLOW through the throttle bores at closed throttle ! All idle air MUST be through the IAC !!!! They went so far as to coat the the backs of the throttle plates with a soft compound to make sure the bore were sealed. This was done so that when the throttle was closed it there would be zero air flow and the throttle plates could NOT "lock" in the bores. (We used to call this "pre-sludged").
This can cause another issue. People got used to the engine starting with no throttle input, even in cold weather. If the IAC was dirty, the start up IAC position was insufficient to start the engine. Long cranks would actually flood the engine, The solution was the CLEAN THE IAC !!
Of course, IACs went the way of the buggy whip when electronic throttle control came along !
I wonder if this is a pcm issue. I've seen other diagnosticians cool and heat the pcm on purpose to see if and how it affects driveability.
I had a 2002 Opel/Chevrolet Zafira. Every 3 or 4 months you had to clean the throttle body or it would stall when low speed maneuvering.
Specially when parking and of course, it always acted up when my wife was driving...
Been waiting for this! Thanks!!
Well one of my guesses was right from first video. I think Ivan is trolling all of us. Lol. He knew it was a dirty tb. He just wanted to show everyone how to not derail off the basics. Watching everyone comment "maybe it's the dinglehopper". Lol.
You got a smirk out of me reading your comment ! I would bet “all the tea in China” Ivan knew from the “get go” also !LOL
Hah actually this was my actual live thought process. Seems pretty simple in hindsight though. Next diag on this setup would take like 15 minutes 😄
Aw, I guessed wrong, but at least it seems I am in good company :P
My scion 06 tc which doesn't have an iac will also do this when hot soaked. Part of my maintenance is a sefoam spray every 15k which cleans the TB and any carbon on the valves/cylinder/piston. Only mechanic in a can stuff i believe in. Haven't had it stall out for the last 70k miles. 282k on the clock now.
Since the PCV vents into the intake plenum, a catch can should be installed to help prevent throttle body fowling.
I had to deal with these vans and a dirty iac usually shows itself after the battery dies, until it relearns. The throttle body and iac usually gets dirty on these easily and might be related to a sticking pcv too. Other problems are a bad 5v ref and it can damage the ecu. IBefore you started it was thinking the ect sensor or crank sensor.
I think old Eric O. Just had something similar. The throttle body was so gunked up it had a hard ridge of carbon that was restricting it from rotating properly. It was sticking on the carbon ridge.
Okay. With all due respect the right way really to do that service is pull the throttle off so that you can remove that Iac and actually clean that bypass properly. And then clean the throttle blades and replace the gasket underneath. Yes cleaning your bores isnt gonna hurt and allow better idle stability but in my opinion you only did half the job that we at the dealer were expected to do on that job with that complaint flat rate. Plus with it off you can look in easier and see if your lower plenum pan gasket is blown out like they always do. You'll see that pintle and passage is always gummed up. No disrespect and I truly enjoy all your content.
Way to go again Ivan . Is that motor the old 318 ?
@18:27 you were still in open loop. So no feedback on fuel mixture when trying to perform IAC recalibration.
Ivan, next time, try _methylated spirits_ , it dissolves tarnish and removed carbon. The surface will be like new!
Smells a bit but you can always clean away the meths with some other alcohol spray!
On dodge and chry the first thing we do at the dealer we have a tool go's in to the vacuum line at the t body it is a ofess and w the scan tool you can check the base idle it's done on all tune ups also the best way to clean is a pair of surgery scissors w a cut piece of green billo pad that your old lady cleans pots and pans with.