Climbing Oregon's Mt Washington Alone
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- čas přidán 17. 07. 2024
- Mt Washington is a glorious 7,795ft Cascade shield volcano just North of the McKenzie Pass lava lands. The roughly 10 mile round trip includes over 3,000ft of elevation change and some gnarly terrain. With no alternative to +5th class rock climbing pitches on the summit pinnacle, this is one of the most difficult major Cascade peaks Oregon has to offer.
For more mountain submitting videos, please check out my Summit Specials playlist by following the link below:
• Summit Specials
Video Contents:
00:00 - Intro
00:45 - PCT Approach
01:38 - Going Off Trail to North Ridge
03:05 - Ascending North Ridge
05:33 - Base of Summit Pinnacle
05:57 - Technical Climbing on Pinnacle
14:52 - Summit ~7,795ft
16:05 - Rappelling ~100ft Cliff
17:55 - Cleanup & Gear Change
19:21 - Descending Rock & Scree
21:47 - Meadows to PCT
22:50 - PCT Departure & Sign Off
You are so cool. Keep climbing!
The burn zone was all the way back to 2003.
What month of the year did you climb this? Great job. It was the first mountain. I climbed it about 10 years old. I’ve only climbed it twice. I might climb it again. This time alone.
It was 29 August 2020. That is awesome I cant imagine getting into this kind of stuff at such a young age. Cheers!
These are some of the best Cascade climbing vids on youtube. Well done!
Thanks so much! Means a lot to me 😊
Great shots man! Thanks for sharing.
Thank you, sir! I appreciate the comment ✌
sweet video but my man you took the hard way up. you can follow the PCT all the way to a climbers trail that is marked by a rock cairn, from there the trail gets steep but is a lot easier than bush whacking. I climb this mountain every summer! PS you can start at Big Lake Via Patjens trail and cross over to the PCT via an old unmaintained trail and save 2 miles
Are you talking about the way I descended? I did a bad job with route info in this one but point out my path around 22:13 and 22:52. I think I know what you mean about parking. Appreciate it!
this was awesome. stay safe and keep it up!
Thank you! Will do!
Bonkers. Almost had a heart attack just watching. Nice work.
Oh my! lol... Appreciate it!
Dude these videos are kinda brilliant
That's perhaps too strong of a word but I sure appreciate it! Haha✌
@@summitspecials ja mann, these are good videos, You should do a video in Colorado
Nice climb! I have a couple of questions that I hope you'll see and answer, 1st one being are there any bolts or places to place protection outside of the belay straps? I couldn't tell from the video; 2nd question is do you know where the technical part of this climb is on the Yosemite decimal scale or the font scale? It doesn't look super difficult but I haven't summited it yet so I'd like to know roughly what it is in advance.
Thanks for the comment! 1. I did not come across any permanent anchors. 2. I'm not confident in rating pitches and wouldn't want to mislead you, but I've seen the North Ridge rated as a 5.0-5.3, I believe that is YDS, but not 100% sure. Just understand if you are used to climbing granite, this volcanic surface is less stable and therein lies the risk. The moves are generally easy enough such that you can maintain three points of contact. Hope this helps. Cheers!
Nice climb. You did it in really good style!!
I did it in '94. We had quite the adventure coming down. The folks sorta to the left of us at the top of the 2nd pitch dislodged a refrigerator sized boulder. THere were folks at the toppa the 1st pitch and I thought they were gonna be pulverized. The boulder skipped of to the left towards the north and juuuust missed them. I was terrified. Then I get to the toppa the first pitch and the dude I'm climbing with can't get his act together and start the rappel down to the bottom of the 1st pitch. The weather is turning and I tell him, "dude, if you don't hurry up, we're both GONNA DIE!!" He finally gets going. The second it's unclipped I zing zang down that 1st pitchand I knock over a pack that has my camera! it's the size and shape and color of all the rocks. SO we hadda downclimb and find it. Which I did! 500 feet down. No harm done! Man was I HAPPY to be done. We hiked out in the rain. That was TOO close, man! Great video Alex.
Its always a little more sketchy with other groups above/below you. Washington's summit pinnacle is relatively solid climbing surface, but it still has a tendency to fall apart like crumbly cascade peaks do. I've seen what a microwave sized rock can do to a person... Glad you came out intact. Cheers!
How sketchy/chossy did this feel compared to Three Fingered Jack, and how would you compare the overall experience? Did you get a feel for which might protect better if you were to climb with a rope and a bit of gear?
My opinion: the summit pinnacles are comparable and require about the same skill level, but Washington has longer climbing pitches and takes a bit more navigation / route selection skills. In either case, the surface is pretty stable, but you still need to be choosy about which rocks you grab onto and test for stability before committing to pull on them. Washington has slightly more edges that appear loaded with some loose rock that you can climb around and avoid. Between both mountains, I was least comfortable on the 3FingJack ridge approach where you have to crawl along a slanted ledge that goes under an overhang for a short distance (12:20-13:40 of my 3FingJack video). Other than that part, 3FingJack would be the safer easier option overall.
Bro there’s a climbers trail I actually marked it a few years ago with white para cord don’t know if someone cut it off or not. Anyway cool video
Interesting... I never saw any parachord or other hardware other than the rap stations, so I wouldn't be surprised if somebody took it down.
Love it! But that’s actually Hayrick Butte instead of Hogg Rock. Hogg is between hoodoo and Three Fingered Jack
Dang it! Thanks for pointing that out!
@@summitspecials for sure! I only noticed it because I’ve been doing extensive planning/scouting of Hayrick so this coming winter I can begin learning climbing on something steep but small
Gaiters help a bit with the rocks, depending on the style...
I need to get back into using those lol. The shoes I was using didn't have the velcro for the gaiters I use with my Altras. Cheers!
I was thinking about just bringing some duct tape up there, and just taping the upper part of the boot. I totally remember that. Shoes full of rocks.
great climb and video! ware the red runners up there already or you took them and left them behind? I hope I can make it this year.
Thank you!! If I remember correctly, all the ones shown in the video were already there, but I picked one up that had a ring on it and replaced it with a fresh one for that rappell. I generally would use whats already there as long as i can fully inspect it and make sure its not pinched between rocks, frayed, or sun damaged. Sometimes I use what is there but also add an extra loop of cordelette just to be safe. Cheers!
Start posting again pla
Thanks for the motivation! Got any mountains in mind?