Don't Be An Uncle Cletus, Dimple Your Damn Barrel.
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- čas přidán 7. 08. 2017
- Mike Mihalski from Sons of Liberty Gun Works discusses the pros and cons of dimpling your barrel. Short story: there is no con, dimple your damn barrel.
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The more I build the more I am glad I bought a dimpling jig. Money well spent.
I purchased a faxon barrel, no dimpling what so ever ! I'd say a ok barrel, but this was a 9 inch , 300 blk , no dimpling at all ! Fact ! I made it work
Red Loctite is only rated up to 450 degrees. Gas blocks get up to 700 degrees. You need to use Rocksett on gas block screws. Rocksett is rated up to 1500 degrees. Red Loctite won’t last long under the extreme heat.
How many rifles do you assemble and test each year, god you guys are smart!
@@alanmeyers3957you don't have to be a pro to be able to read...
When hot, the red loctite gets gummy, which still prevents screw backout, you can use rocksett but what if it rains on your weapon or gets wet? (Breaks down the rocksett)
I have soaked boiling water onto a Rocket muzzle for hours and it held…few rain drops won’t hurt it even if it could manage its way down onto your GB
Ice water helps get rocksett to break loose.
I 3d printed a dimple jig for my BA barrel, sized the holes to use some drill bushings so the drill bit wouldn't walk
Thanks for telling it like it is. Straight forward and to the point. I’ll definitely invest in a jig
I like gun building videos like this that are straight to the point, well laid-out, and they don't look like the videographer/editor is attempting to make another Mission Impossible or John Wick movie. Thanks, brother. 😎😎🇺🇸🇺🇸
Faxon really needs to start dimpling their barrels.
Perfect video. Answered all of my questions, much appreciated!
Awesome information. You guys are incredible
So glad I got my barrel dimples. I was having issues with my gas block moving and causing short strokes after a couple hundred rounds and finally got the barrel dimpled and used a tiny amount of blue lock tight and I haven’t had the issue anymore!
This is the first video I've seen on this that didn't feel like I was trying to watch a Transformers action scene. Thanks guys.
I laugh every time you mention uncle Cletus, that's the name of my 1929 rat rod and its a perfect analogy.
I like this guy, he lets if fly when talking.
Thanks for the video man!
I'm multiple builds in and just bought a jig for ALL the reasons you stated. My first build had no dimples and I had a borderline nightmare getting that gas block to stay put. GET A JIG!!!
Truly appreciate this video and the information that it provides. I did pick up the SLR rifleworks dimpling jig three or four months ago it works awesome!!! I know you said in the video to use red Loctite which I did when I dimpled my barrels. My question to you is have you ever used Rocksett threadlocker for the set screws on any of your gas blocks? I have heard good and bad things about using it just curious what your opinion would be ! And another question have you ever staked your set screws on your gas blocks and your opinion on that thanks.
I am literally staring at your company’s website every couple of mins waiting for the Soul Snatcher lower to come back in stock!! The wait is killing me!!!
“Soul Snatcher” is also the nickname of his truck, considering how many times he got completely shitfaced and got behind the wheel of it.
Great video. Thanks! I'm a little surprised you're using a relatively budget WEN drill press, but I honestly have only heard good things about WEN, personally. *shrug* I trust everything I've seen from this channel. Your advice holds up to scrutiny in my experience.
Old video but a good video. Just what I needed to know.
Couldn't agree more... A dimpling jig was one of the 1st tools I bought when I got into building AR's and if something isn't working like it should after I put everything together I know without a doubt it's not the gas system giving me the problem... Why anyone would just wing it is kind of silly.
Hello. Thanks for the great video. I am in the process of building my first AR. I noticed that the barrel I bought was not dimpled. I didn't even know about this until I stumbled across a video the other day. I do not think I will try dimpling it myself. Since I only intend to build this one rifle, I don't see it being worth purchasing all the right equipment. I am thinking about contacting the barrel manufacturer and asking if I can send back the barrel and have them to do it for me. Or else, see if I can find a local weapon smith that can to it pretty cheaply.
Any case, thanks for the tip. It's little things like this I am still finding out about.
Excellent video!
Great video. Thanks. New it was important
Hell yeah great info
I still would rather have a gas block pinned.
Word. Thanks, man.
Gas block jig is vital for anybody building any amount of AR's. 👍
You guys rule
Great information great video
I watched a video where it said to not use red Loctite because red loctite can be softened by the application of heat (like a torch). Obviously the barrel gets very hot so… Seems to make sense to me
Your video made me pause - It's always easier to do it the right way first then try to unscrew the wrong choice. I ordered a jig today.
Good video . Thanks.
Thanks!
First, big fans of SOLGW. They've got a well deserved reputation of making good things that last.
I taper pin all my barrels, so this doesn't really apply to me, but there's nothing wrong with using an old gas block as a makeshift jig, especially if you're using a free float handguards for the build.
This assumes you have a drill press at home.
1. Take the set screws out of the donor gas block.
2. Chuck it up in your drill press vise
3. Drill through the forward set screw hole, down past the gas block port, and all the way through the top of the gas block.
4. You now have an inexpensive jig that still has a set screw that works.
5. Align your jig on the barrel you want to dimple with the newly drilled hole centered around the gas port. Tighten down the appropriate set screw.
6. clamp down your jig in a drill press vise HARD.
7.Drill through the rearmost set screw hold into the barrel.
8. Less is more. The hole doesn't have to be very deep.
9. COMPLETELY AGREE ABOUT USING HAND DRILLS FOR ANYTHING. I bet SOLGW has seen more uncle Cletus specials than you can shake a stick at, and that's why he's making the points he made.
There's a company called BRD engineering that makes jigs including taper pinning jigs. They CLAIM you can use hand drills to complete the process using their jigs. Just don't, folks. It's a recipe for disaster. You will do something to jack up your build.
Thank you SOGLW, this answers at least one question I had about my M4-SML upper I ordered. Can’t wait to run it!
Great vidjeo!! +1 for clamp on blocks tho
You even quote what loctite you use!? How dare you!
Great video, thank you so much! Subbed
Hey boss could you please put one up in regards to properly staking a castle nut on the buffer tube. And also one on properly staking the gas key thanks
I would say stake the ncg if it isnt already but if you work the bit right you shouldnt need to unless it's a combat weapon why would you want to if you need to take it down later suddenly you have to hit back the changed metal you just staked on the castle nut...trust me it's a pain
Forward controls design has a good video on their page
@@justaregularguy3827 Castle nuts and end plates are cheap. I just counter-bore them out and replace them on the rare...RARE occasion where it is needed. The only time I have really 'needed' to was when I had a buffer retainer pin snap off due to a heavier 9mm buffer where I was Fckin with it and compressed it and released it into the pin. I think it was about a 10 oz buffer and had to replace the retainer pin which I did with a titanium one. Wasn't really a big issue.
@@justaregularguy3827Jesus, you don’t hit back anything cleatus, you simply attach a castle nut wrench and turn counter clockwise!
Can you put together a custom upper? (With parts available on your website). I ask because I see the parts on your website but aren’t always available in the menus on the upper area.
solution, use a good clamp on vice with rockset and never look back. Seals better as well
I’m replacing a no sight gas block which is staked. I going free float so my question is, is their a standard stake/pin hole? Wanna use the same pin hole
Good thing I saw this video
Thanks for the plain talk.
Straight talk subscribed
I bought a home built AR15 that was not ejecting spent round. When I pulled the low profile gas block I found two factory cross drilled slots that the builder just ran two common set screws down on top of. What do I do now, any suggestions?
Added 600 dimples. Almost finished. Unique look.
This is the kind of guy I’d like to learn from. No bullshit just straight to the point and in laments terms!!
Loctite? To remove a screw that has been loctited you apply heat. 30 rounds fired thru a rifle barrel and the barrel will burn skin.....and loosen Locktite. It seems to me that Rockset is much more heat resistant and useful for this purpose.
Red locktite is more than fine. It doesn’t get hot enough to remove it
rockset far better than red locktite.
@SonsOfLibertyGunWorks:
May I Inquire as to WHAT the SET SCREW SPACING is on YOUR SOLGW .750 V2 Standard 4140 QPQ Gas Block Is?
Great video. My only question is why do some manufacturers tell you to not, and if you dimple you will void the warranty? It seems like there is no con and should not effect the integrity. Yet Aero is telling me not to. Thanks
I use a Triarc easy pin gas block which I first dimple, shoot to confirm function, then pin once function is confirmed.
SLR Rifleworks Jig for the WIN!
Should you cold blue the dimple before installing gas block?
I use DS Arms barrels they dimple there barrels for gas block alignment!!
Chone Martinez so do we.
What size bit are you using? I have the KAK jig and they bit they provided wouldn't cut butter.
And if I buy a clamp on gas block ? For a pencil Faxon barrel
Is there s reason you use Threadlock 271 and not something with a higher temp rating like Rocksett?
Hey I have heard good things guys! So you customize only or sell the whole ball of wax? Ammo and holsters the like?
I have a DPMS A2 Classic, does this dimpling bru haha even pertain?
Do all brands of gas blocks have a set screw in line with the gas port?
Great video! What do you recommend to do when the dimple right under the gas port will stay right on the slot of the pin for the A2 gas block, or in between (half of the dimple of the slot and half on the slot)?
Probably do a double dimple and see if the other hole lines up in a cleaner spot on the barrel.
Can you use a normal power drill and the dimple jig? I can't afford that tool you have.
This is why I get a high quality clamp style staked gas block. It's not going anywhere
Which jig are you using? Which do you recommend?
Clamp On gas block FTMFW.
And it doesn't take the integral f(x) by separation of parts to figure this out.
yeah its not that hard to align shit and it doesnt slide around unless your a pussy
i.e. 360 degrees of equal force beats 1 point of contact every time.
+1! I really don't understand why clamp-ons are not the standard.
Instead of drilling,
masking tape, measure off & mark the location for dimple
then shoot a dent into the barrel with a 300bo sub at 5m _( remember your glasses & plugs, safety first)_
My brother's cousin's uncle's former roommate told me he does this every time and it works flawless. Been shootin .300blk to dimple since the 50's even. :)
Where online can you buy that tool?
Why no chf barrel?
What brand barrel dimpling jig do you guys recommend?
What's your thoughts on thermal fitting?
Why have a jig and then not use depth Guage on the drill bit?
My Stag Arms barrel was not dimpled. Got a dimpling jig and GTG
I have the jig but my Milwaukee and bosch cobalt drill bits barely scratch the surface of a nitrided barrel. Any suggestions on what bit to use? I also noticed you used oil. Is that necessary?
Use dremel grind bit to sand off the surface finish, then cobalt drill can do the job easily
So... blue Loctite might as well be water? I'm debating just having a smith dimple a new barrel instead of paying for a jig that I only use once or twice, then misplace.
No chf barrels available?
Recently got a Palmetto State & a Ruger, now I'm wondering if they dimple the barrel, or anything to make sure the gas block doesn't walk off. Anyone know for sure?
PSA dimples yes.
How much for that service?
Makes sense
Can a customer send their barrel to your company to have it dimples and their gas block pinned or would it be better to take it to a gunsmith
Drew Baglin you can definitely send it to us.
I see a Shiner Bock. I usually add a second dimple by installing the gas block on the first dimple and then staking the second hole with a punch. I start small and work up to a 5/32 or 11/64, by hand. I do not have a drill press. Do not drill to deep, just widen the hole. go slow.
Brimstone gun smithing in camas wa told me they will not dimple barrels.
What dimple jig is that exactly
Hi Mike
I do have a question, but this is about dot sights and scopes.
If I took a rifle to the range, shot the scope or dot sight in so I hit every time the same place I would like. Would it be possible for me to "dismount" take it of the picatinny rail or what ever system I were using.
And then refit the sight or dot sight after a long travel from A to B, and the rifle would still hit in the same spot as I aimed at like before.
I do know I need to make sure that the scope/dot sight, is fitted in the same slots as before during the zeroing at the range the first time.
Because if this is true then it should also be true for IR and laser sights.
@@mail-qh2qc Thanks for the answer, I got everything which I needed.
When you mount and remount your sight, apply forward pressure as you tighten the QD mount. It stops the sight and mount from shifting under recoil, and it makes for more constancy when remounting your sight the next time.
I bought a small cheap lazar and mounted it on the top of my rail on the rifle that I swap a regular scope and a night vision scope on. Before dismounting one of them I make sure the cross hairs and the Lazar dot are on the same spot at 50 yards. After I swap scopes I check that the crosshairs on the remount are also on the lazar dot at 50 yards. It's not a perfect system, but it assures that I mount the scopes in the correct slots. Often they line up very closely. If not, I remove the scope and apply more forward pressure when tightening the QD mounts again. I usually take a shot after that at 100 yards just to double check things. Sometimes I have to make an adjust, other times I don't. Either way, it cuts down on the shots it takes to align the remounted scope.
This is in a hunting rifle and my typical shots are from 50 to 125 yards.
Originally thought that I'd only have the lazar mounted for a few minutes while I swapped scopes. But it's so small I've taken to just leaving it on the rifle.
on top of having the barrel dimpled and screws with red loctite, would you guys ever recommend staking the gas block set screws to keep them from coming out? thanks.
Alex Arias I have a Faxon barrel from AIM Surplus that is already drilled for a cross pin.
I cross pin, red Loctite the set screws, *and* stake the screws.
I have never had any issues and it’s cheap insurance to do it all.
Can you appropriately secure a FSB with only the dimple and not taper pins as well?
I’m not sure how secure it is, but the hole under the sling post is the perfect size for a 8-32 thread.
I use a Dez Tactical set screw FSB and it will stay put. The set screw closest to the shoulder is a little longer to go into the dimple.
“Black & Decker fuckin drill” 💀 SUBBED!
Man... glad I bought the dewalt lol.
If the dimple is in the wrong spot you could take a small round file and make a trench through the dimple (assuming that it is spaced correctly for the gas port too) on the opposite side of the gas port. This is a lot of work but it's a way to save a barrel that's been, as you so eloquently put it, "Uncle Cletused".
I purchased a Daniel Defense barrel that is not dimpled and my local gunsmith won't do it. He says it is unnecessary. Can I send it in somewhere to get dimpled?
its not necessary, before it was a big deal ppl used to run non dimpled for thousands and thousands around with zero issues. Just tighten it down and use loctite
If I buy a blem barrel that was dimpled in the wrong spot and then dimpled again the the right spot. would that effect the integrity of the barrel?
Great vid, thank you!
No
Do you need to add a second dimple to a factory dimpled barrel? Or is just the one enough?
Add a second one and pin it this guy does not know what he is doing. And DO NOT use red loctite
@@black_rifle_veteran you seriously lack in the comprehension part.
Go back and watch again. And SOLGW knows what they they are doing. Taught by William Larson.
Stfu
@@black_rifle_veteran actually you are the one that doesn’t know what he’s talking about. Do you have a firearm company with multiple military and police contracts? Didn’t think so.
@@drewbaglin1632no, but what I can tell you with certainty is that red 271 loctite is only rated for about 500 degrees and won’t be around very long.
How's it going, my barrel is dimpled exactly as you show in this video. I am about to put everything together, I have 271 loctite as you mentioned but I was told I should use rocksett so I ordered some and just waiting to get it. Should I forget the rocksett and just go with the loctite. I'm looking to run and gun pretty hard. What do you think. Thank you for your help.
Evan Knight I’ve heard the red loctite can heat up enough to fail and rocksett was a lot more heat resistant, but could be removed by “shocking” it with sudden concussive force, like with a hammer strike.
@@jfaw87
Hi, thank you for responding to my question. I ended up using the 271 as you use. I will just check my screws a few times a year and see how it's doing. Thank you again.
When I was a young machinist I was told that nail polish was used before loctite existed. That being said, I never use either. Quality fasteners and clean threads lock up as required. Also using lock washers. Jam nuts. Locking nuts. All of the above are much better than glue.
Why not just use a clamp on gas block if you don’t want to dimple the barrel? Install things the way they are designed to work. Clamp on style blocks work. Set screws require dimples however.
Whoa ! At 2:30 of the video, that “dimple” looks pretty deep to me. I go about half that depth-or a little less. Before actual drilling I insert drill bit in the jig hole and put a piece of tape or depth collar on it about 3/32” above jig to know where to stop. Then compare check it for depth with a loose drill bit vs the other jig hole. Also available is a breakaway plastic alignment “dowel” or pin that you put in the barrel that slips into the gas block. Then slide the gas block over the hole, invert or roll the barrel 180 deg, and the pin will fall down into the gas block hole when aligned. At that point you put set screw in tight enough to mark or score the barrel for dimpling location. A cleaning rod can then be pushed down the barrel to break the pin in half. It comes out the end of the barrel in two pieces. Made by HD Industries. I believe Brownells has them too
Dimple as a minimum. Drilled and pinned is the way to go. I'm surprised to see companies offer clamp on styles
If you want a bomb proof rifle definitely drill and pin. Installed a Noveske chf barrel a few weeks back, thier drilled and pined gas blocks are the real deal.
Good shit. Question, so pinning, on top of dimpling is just extra insurance?
I would say that is the other way around. Pinning is superior to set screws. Consider the A2 front site/gas block. It's ONLY pinned. You can dimple a pinned block if you want the extra insurance.
@@the_hwyman Thx!
I use Ballistic Advantage barrels and have been very very happy performance wise from 3 different barrels now. They pin but don’t dimple. Should I bother dimpling or is that overkill.
I would not bother dimpling if it is already pinned. Especially if it is under a handguard/rail. Geissele gas blocks are the only ones I have ever heard of using dimpled set screws and pinning for their "bomb proof installation."
@@MultiLoganM My Lwrc di is screwed and pinned ...With a over sized gasblock and a nicor treated gastube thats a bit more robust then a milspec gastube..Pretty solid setup
Is there an exact or minimum depth I should be drilling to?
Its a dimple not a hole. basically you're 'nicking the surface for the set screw to grab onto and not rotate. That being said, Clamp style gas blocks are way better because they give you 360 degrees of force on the barrel, while all a set screw does is tighten on the opposite side of the gas block.
You seem to be forgetting that the dimple also physically locates the set screw ensuring proper alignment of the gas block with the gas port and preventing subsequent misalignment.
lol. I think I have seen the uncle Cletus video he’s talking about.
I wish you would stop ragging on my uncle cletus....... :]
Thanks dude, good video...
If you are spending upward of 1500 on a build, you can definitely afford a pre dimpled barrel. Dont cheap out and make life hard basically
Gas Block Dimpling jig run $55 sounds like a good investment to me
How deep should the dimple be, the dimple he did looked to be a little less then 1/8 inch deep which seems to be way to deep. Like balls deep.