Step 3 Colonial Kit Trigger, triggerguard, ramrod pipes and ramrod
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- čas přidán 25. 07. 2018
- In part 3 of the assembly of a Colonial Rifle Kit, Jim shows how to install the trigger, triggerguard, ramrod pipes and ramrod.
Colonial pt. 1: • Step 1 Colonial Kit Ta...
Colonial pt. 2: • Step 2 Colonial Kit Pa...
Colonial pt. 4: • Step 4 Colonial Kit No...
Colonial pt. 5: • Step 5 Colonial Kit Si...
Colonial pt. 6: • Step 6 Colonial Kit Pr...
Colonial pt. 7: • Step 7 Colonial Kit Po...
Colonial pt. 8: • Step 8 Colonial Kit Ba...
Included w/ kits: • Included with Kits--Dr... - Jak na to + styl
I've been binge watching all of your videos. Enjoy watching them and admire the quality of your products. Thank you
Love the videos and have watched them over and over...I am excitedly waiting for my Colonial to arrive and have just about purchased everything I didn't have on your list to start my build. Thx for these awesome videos.
Thank you Jason!
My trigger installed with perfect adjustment just a slight amount of slack in all conditions. These videos are 3 years old and much of the fitting and adjusting which was necessary then haven't been necessary during my assembly. Things have been taking a tiny bit of filing a little shaving and things pop together with very tight tolerance. It is obvious Jim Kibler is constantly tweaking and improving his kits. It is much more accurate to say one assembles this kit rather than builds it up to the point of final finishing.
So I did the trigger guard and it needed a little twisting and bending. I am old and weak and had no problem adjusting the piece to fit in the mortise perfectly tight. Mostly I found the work to be on the brass removing the flash with just a tiny bit of clean up with the fuzz. I haven't gotten to the trigger or the lock yet. The entry pipe was the most difficult task thus far. Patience is the order here and my kit turned out to have slightly undersize holes for the tenon of the pipes to fit. Tiniest bit of shaving with an Xacto knife and they slipped right in with no gaps. I discover that the brass really needs to cleaned up on the edges to make the fit. Light filing to smooth things and remove the casting flash does it but it needs to be done because the machined inletting is so close the slightest nub of over casting will interfere. Be patient and you will be rewarded with a no gap fit. I likely received a transitional stock. One that had not been drilled for the included drilling guide. The holes in the stock for pins were only on one side and with a single exception were too small to fit the guide. The pilot bit included with drilling guide was easily used without the guide to mark the trigger guard and then the correct size included drill bit followed nicely through the tenons on the trigger guard and through the stock. BE CAREFUL when the drill is close to emerging on the other side. LET THE DRILL DO THE WORK. Don't put a lot of pressure on the drill or it can blow out the hole as it comes through. If it happens it isn't so bad as a little white glue will replace the chip and sanding and finishing will cover the gaff. It is better to avoid the issue with a light touch on the drill.
I agreed. I've "built" a number of kits. I'm not to the point of a totally blank stock needing to be shaped but it's a world of difference when you start with a stock that only has the barrel inlet and ramrod hole. Inleting, drilling and shaping everything by hand the old school way is a whole lot more rewarding.
These videos are fantastic.
Great video, looking forward to the next two!
That’s looking mighty fine Jim!
😃👍👍❤️
Thanks Ricky!
These videos are great help
Happy to help
With the trigger pin in wood instead of metal, is there any chance of wallowing out the pin hole with continues use ? Can you use a trigger that is connected to the trigger plate ?🤔🤔🤔
is it common for the trigger pivot pin to be held in place by the stock?
yes
@@kiblerjim does that "pressure" you are looking to remove result in wear in the wood trigger pin hole?, so that the only time you want pressure is when firing the lock?
What do you mean by maintaining a draft when you are filing?
File at an angle so that the exposed surface is a little bit wider than the surface which will go into the recess. This will allow the metal easier entry and force the wood grain down and out to generate a better fit
@@karlh6700 Well said--thanks!