Simple Way to Terminate a Cat6A External Ground RJ45 Connector
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- čas přidán 25. 07. 2024
- In this week's video Don Schultz walks you through a simple process of terminating Cat6A Shielded Plenum Ethernet cable with a Cat6A External Ground Pass Through RJ45 Connector. He also shares some best practices and updated recommendations for this process!
If you find this video helpful let us know in the comments and subscribe for more!
Video Time Codes:
[0:00-1:05] - Intro & Overview
[1:06-2:02] - Recommended Tools & Accessories
[2:03-6:47] - Preparing Ethernet Cable For Termination
[6:48-10:10] - Terminating Cable to External Ground RJ45
[10:11-10:52] - Closing Thoughts & Outro
trueCABLE Products Featured:
Cat6A Plenum Shielded: www.truecable.com/products/ca...
Cat6/6A External Ground Pass Through RJ45 Connectors: www.truecable.com/products/ca...
Copper Fabric Strips: www.truecable.com/products/co...
trueGROUND External Ground Crimp Tool: www.truecable.com/products/tr...
trueCRIMP All-In-One Crimp & Termination Tool: www.truecable.com/products/al...
Flush Cutter: www.truecable.com/products/fl...
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NOW this was a very good informative video ! Good work !
Thanks, Jason! I am glad you liked the revised video. It took quite a while to work out (and experimentation) a method that would not only allow for repeatable, high-quality terminations but something that could also be explained easily on video too. In general, I don't recommend hand terminating 8P8C plugs onto thick shielded Cat6 or Cat6A solid copper Ethernet cable and will typically push someone towards field termination plugs or keystones; there is just too much that can go wrong with 8P8C plugs terminated to solid copper conductors. That said, there are those who REALLY want to put on 8P8Cs, so it was incumbent upon me to come up with the best possible way.
Videos are hard to do! People don't understand the time they take and to edit :) GOOD WORK !@@trueCABLE
@@JasonsLabVideos Hello Jason! Yup, videos are not simple to do. It takes a lot of proper equipment, lighting, video editing, sound editing, and more. You know what we mean. We have an entire team of people dedicated to processing our video content. I guess my part is the easiest and the most fun, because I get to talk and then basically walk away at the end. ~~ Don.
Can you give more info about where you said don't use this RJ45 connector on the other end?
Hello Chris! Indeed. It is a bad idea to (in general) terminate 8P8C connectors onto both ends of solid copper conductor Ethernet. For a number of reasons, this is the least performant and stable way of terminating this type of cabling. There are situations where you MUST do it, but you need to have an excellent plug-to-cable fitment (Category is not relevant) in two different dimensions, and preferably, the cable and plugs should be sourced from the same supplier AND the supplier should have tested them as a system. This is something trueCABLE does, but we still recommend termination of 8P8Cs onto a single end of the solid copper cable, and the other end be an IDC style termination (e.g. keystone jack, monolithic patch panel) due to far better durability and mechanical (therefore electrical) stability. You can read a lot about this in a blog I wrote that covers the ins and outs and whys of this subject here: www.truecable.com/blogs/cable-academy/terminating-pass-through-rj45-connectors-onto-solid-copper-ethernet-cable-a-really-bad-idea.
Kindly assist in my little confusion.
In the previous videos you had advised not to remove the cable shield. but you have done the exact opposite here by removing the cable shield.?
Hello, and sorry for any confusion! We added a new accessory, our copper fabric strips, that stand-in for the cable shield when terminating. You remove the cable shield, fold back and wrap the drain wire around the jacket, and then tack down the drain wire with the conductive adhesive copper fabric strip. This makes the job a lot easier. If you don't have the copper fabric strips then you would still leave the cable shield on and wrap the drain wire around that.
Hi thanks for the informative videos 👍
Question? You cut off the outer jacket, then the outer foil shielding, then the polyester wrap then wrapped the drain wire around the outer jacket. Shouldn’t the shielding be grounded also or is it somehow touching the drain wire through the polyester wrap?
I’ve seen some videos showing the foil shield folded back and grounded to the jack.
Hello! You are welcome. As to bonding cable shields to your termination hardware...There are multiple ways of going about it. The drain wire does make full-length contact with the cable shield. My favorite way is to use the copper fabric strips to tack down the drain wire with the cable shield removed. The reason is it contributes to a thinner termination end. You can, of course, also use the tried and true method of folding back the cable shield and wrapping the drain wire around that, too. The problem with that is sometimes the foil shield is nicked and will rip off easily, and folding back the cable shield adds thickness to an already thick cable. A third way, and a bit riskier, is to remove the foil shield and forgo any kind of copper or copper fabric strip, and rely on the drain wire to make contact by itself. That method always makes me nervous because the drain wire can easily slide out of position, and you would get poor bonding contact.
Thanks 🙏
What’s your thought on grounding both ends? Is that required in all cases?
@@BacktrackADV Hello again! No problem. As to bonding both ends to ground, that is the best practice unless the physical installation somehow prevents you from doing so OR you are looking to avoid a ground loop. If you seek to avoid a ground loop, then you would find a way on the remote end to be sure the cable shield does not end up bonding to ground. You can achieve that by not using the drain wire or cable shield---simply remove them and terminate without bonding the shield one one side. There are a lot of ways to go about it.
Oh great some thing else I'm gonna have to buy those copper strips look really handy. I have been using analog audio over cat cabling for a few years now and I made up some adapters… Which I accidentally wired the wrong way around so I'm gonna have to redo them at some point. I need 8 and at least remake 4 of them reversed. I needed to shift the pairs around to shift the signaling to match up with numbers and things. Needless to say it works on one end of the cable perfectly but if I put it on the other side it doesn't and shifts channels to the wrong spots. So where was I going oh yeah I'm working with shielded cable and I was a little concerned that the ground drain wire would not make reliable contact just pinched but adding that little bit of foil tape would make me a lot more comfortable. As I'm sending balanced audio down each pair that's 4 audio channels the system actually uses the shield as the negative return for 48V phantom power so it's important that's intact and doesn't come loose otherwise it'll make popping sounds.
I had to Field reterminate a 100 foot ethernet cable a few months back and because I already ran the cable from the back of the room to the front of the room up to the podium for the HDMI converter I decided to use the pass-through connectors to make things go quick and easy and not accidentally get pears switched around. Well last month I noticed an issue with the video cutting in and out and I had to swap the entire cable out. I recently got around to testing it I don't have a high dollar tester yet I'm waiting for the puck ethernet to come back in stock along with my budget. In the meantime I used one of those $10 cheap testers and a homemade tester that I've made and I am showing connections with no faults but there's gotta be some sort of fault since it's causing the HDMI converter to lose sync? I am probably going to cut the end off and redo it again wondering if maybe there's a mismatch between the cable and the connectors or maybe for some reason the junction loosened up this is the first time I've use the pass-through connectors. Any advice?
Hello! I fully understand the issue and frustration. Just because a wire map tester says your cable is OK does NOT mean your cable is "OK". Wire map testers only test for continuity in the correct order, but they tell you nothing about performance. Wire map testers do not reveal nicked conductors, ill-fitting RJ45 (8P8C) plugs, or excessive conductor untwist--all of which will lead to poor performance and the issues you describe. I understand you wish your cable to end in male terminations, so the best way to accomplish that with the best possible chance of success (without an advanced tester) is to use field termination plugs. Field termination plugs are IDC style terminations that are much more secure and performant, while being much less sensitive to fitment problems. Field termination plugs also are Category rated and have a PCB inside. I wrote extensively about this in a blog right here: www.truecable.com/blogs/cable-academy/terminating-pass-through-rj45-connectors-onto-solid-copper-ethernet-cable-a-really-bad-idea. I strongly suggest you read it. You can pick up field termination plugs in shielded or unshielded versions. trueCABLE sells them on our website here: www.truecable.com/collections/connectors/type_field-term. That is the best advice I can offer you! PS--if the field termination plugs do not resolve your issue then I would suspect the cable itself.
You’re never going to get the pocket ethernet they are out of business
@@ttss5726 Thanks for the heads up. I was unaware they had gone out of business.
@@ttss5726 well that's good to know? this is literally the only thing I've heard about it. last i visited the website it's still listed as available (Availability Q4 2022) yahhhh. Unfortunately I'm having a hard time finding anything relatively close to what that does. Sure there's other devices for checking POE and then there's other devices for running network scripting/payloads then there's the flute$$$$$$$$$$$testers. And like most things in my life as soon as I can afford it I'm looking for it on eBay because it's been discontinued.
@@ttss5726 got any recommendations for a tester that's not the price of a car (already have a car payment) and does wire map, TDR and POE. Or maybe a combination of devices that's not $300. I have one of those $20 testers off eBay but it does not necessarily understand split pairs. $200 would've paid for itself two years ago running around somebody's house with all sorts of messed up connections.