The BEST WAY to Wire Up Ethernet Plugs! (Cat7 + RJ45 Modular Load Bar connectors)
Vložit
- čas přidán 4. 06. 2024
- Get it right first time, every time! How to make up shielded Cat7 ethernet cables from scratch using modular RJ45 connectors, with a load bar.
Purchasing Links: (paid)
➡ RJ45 Modular Crimping Tool: geni.us/ModularCrimper
➡ Ethernet Cable Tester: geni.us/NetworkCableTester
➡ RJ45 Modular Plugs with Load Bar: geni.us/RJ45ModularPlugsCat7
➡ Cat7 Shielded Ethernet Cable: geni.us/Cat7Cable
➡ Cat6 Ethernet Cable: geni.us/Cat6
➡ Flush Cutters: geni.us/FlushCutters
➡ Metric Tape Measure: geni.us/MetricTapeMeasure
➡ Automatic Wire Strippers: geni.us/WireStrippers
DISCLOSURE: As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
⭐ My Referral Links ⭐
🏎️ Schedule a FREE test drive or order Tesla Products: geni.us/SoN-TESLA
💡 Split £100 with me when you switch to 🐙 Octopus Energy: geni.us/SoN-OctopusEnergy
🧋 Get £10 off at Huel: geni.us/SoN-Huel
🎸 Buy musical instruments, audio & PA gear from Thomann: geni.us/SoN-Thomann
🌍 My KIT profile: kit.co/paulfp
(Commissions/credits are earned from these links, which helps support me and the channel.)
Learn how to make a network cable (patch lead) and fit an RJ45 connector using an RJ45 crimping tool for Modular Plugs with a Load Bar. This type of RJ45 plug allows the 8 conductors to pass through the end of the load bar before you insert into the plug, making it easier to ensure the correct order of the coloured wires (T-568A or T-568B) and perfect placement inside the jack before crimping.
Now you know how to crimp ethernet cable!
See Also:
Pass-Through / EZ RJ45 Snap Plugs - • How to Wire Up Etherne...
How to Crimp Standard RJ45 plugs - • How to Crimp Cat5 / Ca...
How to Wire Up Ethernet Wall Jacks - • How to Wire Up Etherne...
#RJ45 #Ethernet #LoadBar
00:00 - The problem with regular RJ45 plugs and Pass Through / EZ Plugs
00:29 - Stripping the outer sheathing from the network cable
00:45 - Automatic Wire Stripper
01:11 - Untwist and straighten out all 8 wires
01:31 - Organising the colour-coded wires in the correct order
03:06 - Sliding on the RJ45 load bar & trimming the wires
03:56 - Assembling the modular plug
04:10 - Crimping the end and fitting strain relief boot
05:05 - Testing your home made ethernet cable with network cable tester
Here's the RJ45 Pinout T-568B diagram which was the first result in Google Images in the video demo: www.showmecables.com/blog/pos...
More reading, T-568A vs T-568B: www.canford.co.uk/TechZone/Ar...
Join this channel to get access to perks:
czcams.com/users/SwitchedOnNet...
FOLLOW US:
Twitter: / switchedonnet // / paulfp
Instagram: / switchedonnetwork // / paulfp
Facebook: / switchedonnetwork // / paulfp
Podcast: podfollow.com/switchedonnetwork
► JOIN Channel for Perks: czcams.com/users/SwitchedOnNet...
► Support on PATREON: / switchedonnetwork
► Browse our MERCH: teespring.com/stores/switched...
► Explore our GEAR: kit.co/paulfp
Check out our Amazon Influencer shops!
► UK: www.amazon.co.uk/shop/switche...
► USA: www.amazon.com/shop/switchedo...
► Canada: www.amazon.ca/shop/switchedon...
DISCLOSURE: As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Copyright © Innobella Media Limited 2022. All Rights Reserved.
www.innobellamedia.uk/
For sponsorship, product reviews, collaboration & Business Enquiries you can get in touch here: www.switchedonnetwork.com/con... - Věda a technologie
Purchasing Links:
➡ RJ45 Modular Crimping Tool: geni.us/ModularCrimper
➡ Ethernet Cable Tester: geni.us/NetworkCableTester
➡ RJ45 Modular Plugs with Load Bar: geni.us/RJ45ModularPlugsCat7
➡ Cat7 Shielded Ethernet Cable: geni.us/Cat7Cable
➡ Cat6 Ethernet Cable: geni.us/Cat6
➡ Flush Cutters: geni.us/FlushCutters
➡ Metric Tape Measure: geni.us/MetricTapeMeasure
➡ Automatic Wire Strippers: geni.us/WireStrippers
DISCLOSURE: As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
thanks again.. much appreciated
The RJ45 Modular Plugs with Load Bar link is to Punch Down Keystone Jack Adapters instead of what you showed.
Thanks Jim, I'll look into that as it might be geolocating to the wrong item. Which country are you in?.
@@SwitchedOnNetwork USA, Florida to be more specific.
Thanks! It should work properly now.
I was today years old when I discovered that the metal wires from shielded cat6/7 cables serve as grounding. To be fair, it's not been that long since I've joined the industry, but I'm glad I found it now than later.
Don't forget, the shield must be grounded at one end too. Otherwise, it's useless.
@@James_KnottWell noted, thanks!
What the use of ground network cabling?
@@pit3835 Some cables have a shield to reduce interference. To be effective, the shield must be grounded at one point.
lol what an idiot!
Thank you very much for this video!
I bought a Cat 7 cable from a retailer, and their guide was very very bad. It had me spent 2 days trying to figure it out, with their support team not understanding me. Then I saw this video, and it worked first try!
Simple, easy to understand and no fluff!
Thanks! Glad it was helpful 😊
I use to wire up RJ45 plugs before they had the "load bar." You would have to prepare all the wire and then run them up into the plug with nothing but your finger tips holding them into place and give the wires a little side to side twist so they would run up into the slots until they bottomed out at the end and then crimp it.
There's just nothing like the feeling of crimping the perfect connector... then looking down and seeing the boot lying separate on the table.
You got my subscription with this video. I feel about running network cable like I feel about doing woodwork. For someone who hates it, I seem to do an awful lot of it.
hahaha 😂😂😂
Yeah it's one of those tasks which isn't particularly fun, but it's necessary and enables/improves a lot of other things!
A proper DOH! moment right there, I feel your pain.
Lmaooooo
IMO the boot is optional, and for the vast majority of cases, I prefer to not have the boot. I've had lots of experience with the boot plastic hardening because of age, and environment, and once hardened it becomes substantially harder to disconnect the cable from the device.
A friend of mine gave me a bag of those connectors with that little plastic insert. Those are used for stranded wire. I use the passthrough for solid wire. Just makes it easy to see the colors and then just adjust the wire, cut and pull back for a perfect flush. Try doing that with stranded wire and you'll be pulling your hair. That's how I found what those were for. Plus the bag clearly says that. He just ordered the wrong ones.
I wanted to find how "load bars" are actually named, but had zero idea.
Thanks to you I have found them!
Also, very useful tips and demonstration on how to wire up TP cable!
Thanks for the video!
As an AV tech I love it when the higher-ups demand load bar connectors just because I get paid more, but I have to say I've never had a short problem with pass-throughs. I think the key is good tools, most importantly your flush cutters and the blade on your crimpers. Replacements are sold for most crimpers and maintaining the blade like a good knife will ensure that the cut-off is smooth and short-free. When you look at the end of the completed connector each wire end should look like a little colored donut with a shiny copper dot in the middle-no crushing or smearing of the copper leads into each other. Another cheat I've seen is a small dab of gel CA glue spread over the ends of the wires exposed at the end of the connector. Do this after testing and before insertion, and please let the CA dry before installation or it'll be permanent.
I had the opportunity to have a break-time competition with a guy who had one of those bad-ass testers, and the difference between an EZ connector and a high-end connector, both well installed, is negligible for most AV and non-military applications.
The truth is that these connectors are engineered to avoid interaction between potential short points. If you plug a pass-through into a socket and get a short you really have to evaluate your terminating technique!
Thanks! Now I understand the function of that metal part. And that hint about those 12 mm is good also!
Glad it was helpful!
My crimping tool cuts the ends right away, so I always just leave em too long and they go through the end get cut when crimped.
Quite handy.
Legitimately thank you for this video, I had no clue they made the connectors with a modular load bar. This is an absolute game changer. Definitely getting some of these, my server closet is about to have one heck of a makeover. (also somehow never realized you could buy those little cable stress relievers as a pre-made drop in component for cable making, I always just assumed those were always just injection molded in the factory and required some sort of expensive machine to make, never thought about there being a slip on option for homemade cables)
Glad it was helpful! 😄
Sorry to disappoint but it's Not a cable stress reliever. it only Protects the clip from braking when your pulling it out of your to messy cable management Trey. at home mostly you realy don't need it. the stress Relieve is at the end of your original plug sadly the video dos not mention the cable shielding is seposed to go under it if your doing it richt. Also it is a good idear to strip the cable longer it make arranging the cables easier and your can twist the excess together so they dos fall all over when you cut them later.
Thanks a lot, your video help me a lot to fix a short issue I had with my RJ45 connector with passthru features.
Perfect video and I can see this is the same for Cat 8 as well. thank you!
You're welcome!
so cool, iv never done this, i dont have the tools but watching these videos gives me confidence in trying one day.
Go for it! 💪 Everything you need is listed in the description. Once you've done it a few times you'll soon start finding it easy 🙂
@@SwitchedOnNetwork i see these videos are popular i looked on the back of my modem router and noticed an ethernet cable split into two rj11 for the dsl and phone line..have you made one of those? would like to see your version of explanation.
I have only connected a few for home use but without a pass through. To hold the ends I cut a ~8mm strip from an old credit card, fold it and use it to hold the wires in a tight group. Seems to work fairly well but that pass through makes it look much easier.
Only good video on youtube that I found for cat 7! Thank You!!!
You're welcome!
Even I as an experience cable crimper did learn something. I did not know about those strippers. I would always strip it by hand with some pliers.
However it seems that it's faster to just use a regular plug than doing it this way. At least at the point you put the load bar on, I'm already cutting it to size and putting the connector on and crimping it.
IMO modular works great because it's staggered. It allows each cable to have its own chamber so the pin is much less likely to miss the bite into the wire and slip in-between the wire and jacket. They also sell non-modular that are staggered, that's what I use. They shouldn't have enough room to slip to the side, that's why you're not supposed to use CAT5 (24 gauge) in CAT6 (23 gauge (bigger)) connectors. But in the last 5+ years I haven't had a bad connection using non-modular staggered CAT6 with CAT5 😉
I bought staggered connectors once, and hated them (I think I still have them somewhere). With the additional module is nice, but only staggered, I could never find how to get them in the holes. With the linear Cat5e, I would prepare them and tension them against wall while sliding in. But staggered??? And recently I bought passthrough, but did not crimp any yet.
@@mateiberatco500 i mostly use staggered (non modular), that's my go to. But! It took me a LONG time to get used to it and get it just right. They also have staggered passthrough, witch IMO would be the best of all worlds. Staggered let's you get away with using cat5 (thinner wire) with cat6 terminations. So you can just have a bag of Cat6 staggered passthrough for everything, solid, stranded, cat5, thin/thick jacket, and they won't shift to the side and cause the pin to park on the side of the wire vs biting into it.
Very nice, very detailed one, truly loved it
just installed a big system in the warehouse with about 160 connectrors. Used cheap chinese pliers and pass-throught connectors. Out of all of them all was working except two. One because of security pin broke off, second : because wires were mixed.
They crimped perfectly
Thank you for this video!!! Very clean and well instructed
My pleasure! I'm glad you found it useful. Happy crimping!
Great video, easy to understand, thank you :)
We have used passthroughs for several years, done 100s of them, never once had an issue.
Great demonstration.
Great informative video, very interesting. I like the modular plug design, makes it really easy to make a cable. I also like the cable tester.
Glad it was helpful!
Missed the part where the wires jump grooves when you slide the bandwidth separator (what my job calls it) down. I would also suggest pushing it down ever so slightly more than you need. This way when you flush cut, you dont risk cutting the separator as well. Then you just slide it to the ends of the wires.
That shouldn't be necessary if you have a good flush cutter tool (like the one I used, and linked in description) and use proper technique. However, it's still a good idea for an alternative technique if that's a problem so thanks! :)
The nice thing about the pass through connector is that you can thread each strand through one at a time in the right order, and then pull them straight. That way you don't have to do all the straightening and ordering up front, which is in my experience, the time consuming bit when adding a plug. It looks like that would work with modular load bar as well. Have you tried that?
I tried that after reading similar comments on the previous video I put out (this one: czcams.com/video/NWhoJp8UQpo/video.html) but couldn't get them to thread through nicely so went back to the method I showed. Maybe I need to practise more, but grouping them together works for me so I'll probably stick with that. Great that there's another method though, and if it works better for some people then I'm all for that :)
@@SwitchedOnNetwork If the connector of RJ45 can be injection molded into one, it will be better, with guaranteed quality and more beautiful appearance
This is insanely inefficient. Just cut all 8 at an angle and gently guide them in.
@@jodycwilliams Inefficient? For the average person who makes these cables a few times a year, efficiency is irrelevant.
Agree. Pass-through is the best.
Just done my first Cat6a thanks!
Good work!
Thank you, it's really really helpful
REALLY nice explanation, great job
Thank you!
One of the most perfect educational videos i have ever seen. Damn you good :D
That's very kind of you to say, thank you!
Thanks for your valuable information
I started working in this industry in my early twenties. Back then I would bang out 100 patch cords fully terminated and booted in under an hour. We used a small machine if they were available to crimp the RJ45, otherwise we'd do it with a hand tool which would take longer.
We never made our own patch cables, every project we go to we would take a partitioned box with different sizes of pre-made (stranded) cables.
Then for the runs between rooms, we use solid core cables and terminate them in punch down blocks.
Yeah you'd never bother making your own short patch cables, but for longer custom length runs which *can't* go into a patch panel or a keystone jack, this is how...
I love the load bars. Co workers hate them.
Cool idea, I just did my first RJ45 connector and it could have been easier!
I was struggling today crimping cat 6 using the insert, I finally end up using cat5e RJ45 connector, much easier.
It sounds like the gauge (thickness) of the wires might not have matched the plugs. Check the AWG number on both is the same. Hope that helps!
The reason for t-568 having an a and b standard is for when you need crossover cables. The shield is for electromagnetic (EMF) interference. You dont have to bond the shield if you're not running the cable through areas where you're not having to deal with emf interference or you're not trying to use the cable near its maximum speeds.
With FastEthernet (100Mbps) they started introducing auto MDI-X, which means they can detect a crossover cable. So today (at least with Gbit devices), I think you can use a crossover cable (one end A, other end B) with any network device and it will work.
@@mateiberatco500 just looked it up. Apparently most modern devices are equipped with auto mdix and it will set itself according to the auto detect. However, since it's not guaranteed, there may be some instances where a crossover cable will be required. This is typically from network switch to network switch where crossover cables are traditionally required. It's also required if you skip the network switch and do a peer to peer direct connection between computers/consoles.
@@ianbelletti6241 "Traditionally required"... that made me smile.
I used straight cables between PCs during the 100Mbps era. Granted, the cards were marketed as auto-MDI/MDI-X.
Also I have played with a lot of switches (since 100Mbps era), including my 2 new 2.5Gbps and POE-powered switches (5-port POE pass-through). I remember using crossover just for some early 100Mbps switches. Of course, 90% of world products is not 100%.
PS: I see on wikipedia that there are 2 configurations that use the switchable pairs for power. I guess a crossover cable would reverse-polarity the device???
@@mateiberatco500 what happens in standard fixed connections is that you have a transmit pair and a receiving pair in each device. When the two connector wirings match, you need a crossover cable to make sure the transmit pair on one device connects to the receiving pair on the other device. Auto mdix automatically negotiates this by detecting which pair on the device's end is transmit and which is receive and chooses to use the a or b standard on its connector to ensure that the communication can occur. On devices that are not auto mdix, you are expected to know if you are connecting like to like connectors (a to a or b to b) or different connectors (a to b). If it's like to like, you need a crossover cable. If it's different, then you need a standard cable. Traditionally, user end devices had one connector standard and switches used the other. You could connect end user device to switch with a standard cable but direct peer to peer or switch to switch required crossover cables.
@@ianbelletti6241 And my point is that since 1000Gbit switches and cards, I have NOT found a device (cards and motherboards) lacking auto-MDI-X. Which means it really doesn't matter. The example I was thinking: if you need to replace the connector and you're too lazy to check the other end, on the other side of the house. As long as you remember that you stuck with t-568, you don't have to bother which variant (or if the other side is the switch with a mix of A/B wiring and can't easily identify the "victim" cable).
PS: I have not used a crossover cable in years, including Raspberry PI directly to a 10Mbps retro card (the latter which, by the way, does not have audo-MDI-X... a single side is enough).
Your voice makes me think of Henry Cavil for some reason, is that why this is the only video which actually helps me make cat7 terminations? You're a godsend Henry Cavil of the Ethernetworld
haha thanks!
Very helpful and very well explained. Thanks. 🙏🏻👏
Thank you!
my cables always look ghetto because the wire is usually sticking out of the bottom of the connector because i leave too much slack and don't cut it off. I also don't straiten the wires all the way, so it sometimes takes a few tries to get the wires to stay, and not bend. This is all with standard, non-passthrough connectors, and 23 AWG wire.
Posteno i strucno objasnjeno
Hvala
Hvala, drago mi je da ste uživali u videu!
Very very good
This is such a great video, thanks
Thank you! Glad it was helpful 😀
@@SwitchedOnNetwork I'm in the UK so was wondering where I might get the crimpers and plugs etc
Hello fellow Brit! 🤣 I've put affiliate links to Amazon in the description and pinned comment - you'll be sent to the UK site when you click 👍
Thanks man
You're welcome! Hope it's helpful :)
Thank you 🙂
I got my house wired up and I had to do something similar with my keystone patch panel. When I was doing the first cable the technician was still around and gave me some advice in which now I'm still pretty sure made me do my first cable end in "A" config. After he left I kept going by learning with a YT video and ended up doing the rest of the cables in "B" config. When I tested all the cables are working seemingly fine, I tested with the network cable tester, all cables + ground light up sequentially on both ends like in this video, but I don't know how the other cable ends are setup. I'm now worried that I might have some crossover cables but my internet is working just fine.
If they light up sequentially on both ends, then they must be the same wiring at each end so you'll have standard patch cables rather than crossovers. If you do have some crossovers, I think some switches and network interfaces are clever enough to detect that and adjust accordingly, so would still work - but don't quote me on that!
got a vid going into the downsides of the different plugs in more detail? like how does the passthrough short out?
I would recommend having gloves for cat7 if you are terminating a bunch like I did years ago 240 pulls hands were cut up after all the terminations.
Yeah, good tip! Always good to protect your hands if you're doing a lot of work.
Impressive!!!
So easy. TIA568B standard EX connect RJ45. 30 secs max each connector.
Good work
Thank you so much 😀
Solid wires are for magistral lines with patch-panels, outlets ending.
What's was super helpful thank you
Glad it helped!
Nice info, thanks :)
Glad it was helpful!
I don't run cables full time - I'm a systems admin. But I've crimped at least hundreds and probably over a thousand cables using the old way, enough that I haven't had to look at a wiring diagram in more than a decade. I've crimped enough that it was very rare for me to have to re-crimp a termination. At first I was skeptical of passthrough RJ45 plugs. No longer. They are superior - easier to use and you know if the pinout is correct before you crimp. I have given away my old crimpers and ends.
What some people fail to understand is when you use shielded cable, it must be grounded at one end. This means the connector it plugs into must also be shielded. If there is no shielded & grounded connector, then the shield is useless. I have worked with switches that have shielded & grounded connectors and I have also brought out the shield wire to connect it to a ground point. In telecom, where I spent decades of my career, shields and grounds are a big issue.
Also, my understanding is that TIA-568A is preferred, not B. Also, I prefer A because it places the orange wire between the green and blue. With some cables, it's hard to tell the difference between green & blue, so having the orange wire in between means you're less likely to go cross eyed, trying to make sure the plug is wired correctly.
Originally TIA 568A was meant for residential work while TIA 568B was meant for commercial work... TIA 568B has been the dominant choice for all now...
@@MrSupersidewinder Actually, 568A matched the telephone system cabling that had been in use for decades before there was even such a thing a Ethernet. 568B came about with StarLAN, which eventually became 10baseT. It was designed to use the existing 3 pair CAT 3 telephone cables that were commonly used in offices. Since pair 1 (blue) was used for the phone line, the orange & green pairs were used for the LAN. I have never heard of the distinction between residential and commercial work and my telecom background goes back 50 years and first LAN work in 1978. I also got my CCNA several years ago.
Yeah I'm pretty sure there's zero distinction in this regard between residential and commercial (but happy to be corrected if I'm wrong!)
The only thing I've ever heard about the difference between A and B (and this is purely rumor and hearsay) is that A is more common in Australia, but B is used everywhere else, unless a sparky did the wiring job.
@@catatonicbug7522 A is more common in Canada too. However, it makes no difference which one you use, so long as you're consistent.
The worst part about finding the correct plug is that there are too many CAT6 and CAT6A cable types (gauges). I had to go through several modular RJ45 connector brands/types to find the correct one (many manufacturers don't specify cable/plug gauge). I also have probably around 5 types of UTP/STP cables around house for some reason. Weirdly enough CAT5e (non-modular) plugs seem to be the most flexible and work even with CAT6A cables.
I often find cables moving to the side in the modular plugs after crimping even though everything looked fine before crimping. Wish there were connectors with metallic load bars instead of the cheap plastic ones.
Yeah it's always important to match the gauge of the cable to that of the plug - I was doing an installation once where another contractor had supplied the cable but I ended up having to put some of my own plugs on and it turned out his wire was thicker and it was a nightmare until we got the right ends!
Metal might cause an impedance bump.
@@James_Knott Yeah, I guess it could also short easily. What about punch-in RJ45 male plugs? :D
Yeah I'd avoid metal - I don't know if they even exist?
Very brief demonstration. Thank you. How about the tool you use to squeeze the jack? Which one do you recommend best?
Purchasing links in the video description 👍
Thanks you bro❤❤🎉🎉
Hope it was helpful! 😁
good idear😊
I have a question though: wouldn’t it be better to strip away the outer jacket and crimp that strain relief to that instead of peeling back and twisting the braided shielding? I feel like that would give a better mechanical connection for both the strain relief and the shielding, as it’s clamping down on a more ‘regular’ surface, less chance of a gap or looser connection.
what is the actual risk of shorts from pass through? and what would that short do?
Is it possible for a LAN cable to pass a continuity test (the 1-8 thing), but still carry problems? We're getting 200 MBPS from our 8 port switch. But when connected to a router via lan cable, its dropping to 8MBPS. But the lan cable seems crimped perfectly and passes the continuity test?!
I have used the passthrough type just because there is no metal in the back of my sockets to short things out. They are very easy to use.
It's moisture that people are most worried about I think, especially in PoE applications. But of course, if moisture is a possibility or concern then "using closed instead of passthrough plugs" shouldn't be the solution, using a proper waterproofing boot should be the minimum they'd do! (For an interesting read, take a look at the comments section of the passthrough plugs video on my channel! 🤣)
@@SwitchedOnNetwork Sounds like one of those "It's not popular, because idiots blame it for their ignorance" situations. 🤔😂
I've terminated hundreds of passthrough RJ45's without a single failure. Genuinely didn't know people think there's a risk of shorting with them. This seems rather convoluted, but perhaps required when working with complex shielded connectors.
Me too! I've never had an issue with them myself, but the comments section of the video tutorial on pass through plugs was so rife with arguments about shorts that I thought a video on these would be a good shout 😄
My fingers & Crimping Tools are enough to do this
In my experience it’s not super necessary to use flush-cutters to cut away the foil shielding for the individual pairs. If you unwrap it and just keep twisting it will give and come right off. Not a huge difference but it helps to know when you don’t have your flush cutters with you that moment.
Good tip, thanks!
thankksss..... its work....
Excellent! Glad it was useful 🙂
I got a weird load bar it's 3 groups of 2 and 2 groups of 1
So, only the greens fit in the 1 group and the other in the 2 groups I think
tech tip, fill the strain relief with hot glue and the connector would be much more rugged.
Love how they only show solid and striped, but the ether cable that I have is all solid, White/Orange/Light Green/Dark Blue/Light Blue/Dark green/Purple-ish/Brown.
That's bizarre. Do the colours of the strands that are twisted together correspond in a way that you're able to easily tell them apart at either end ok?
That's a crazy color combination. Definitely not standard.
Thanks man...
No worries, hope it was helpful!
es compatible con los conectores apantallados rj45 cat6a?, ya que veo que el cable es mas grueso cuando es categoría 7/7a
Sí, son compatibles :)
A little copper tape helps with the connection of the shielding
Good idea! 😀
Will my regular Ethernet crimping tool work on these ends to crimp the end on? Or is the crimping tool designed different for these ends?
My regular tool is for passthrough.
Maybe this isn't the best place for this comment, but I'll go for it. My company stopped the whole clown show around CAT7 and those ridiculous swiss-watch connectors a couple of years ago when optical baluns hit the market. One fiber line to a managed switch gets it done with even better speed and, check it, no EMF interference! Sheesh we can buy prebuilt cables with baluns pre-installed! And they work GREAT!
Yeah fibre's pretty sweet and it's so cheap nowadays. I put out a video on it recently, but it's not done that well so feel free to go and give it some love ;-) czcams.com/video/XQjP135ZtcE/video.html
I haven't heard of a loading bar and it appears to be an extra step I don't need. I use pass-through connectors and once I slide the wires into place, I check the color coding to ensure nothing got twisted or mixed up. Once I crimp down, the excess wire is cut flush to the end of the connector and its ready to go. All the other steps you did are the same for me.
Yeah these are kind of a best of both worlds between standard and passthrough as these have closed ends when completed, so if that's required it ticks that box.
Well I already been doing this for year's but never know that braided shielding was a ground wire. I always cut it off as I think it wasn't important..😅 guess I learn new things and do it properly.. gotta change my current cable right now..🙂
ha, glad you learnt something! Bear in mind, that's only relevant if the switch it's plugged into provides grounding for it to connect to - otherwise it's pointless. So you might not gain anything by changing just your cable.
@@SwitchedOnNetwork I see so not all port connection have grounding only some of them.. anyway looking forward to your other video.. I just found your channel recently and I’m interest on it already.. just sub for you and hope you can keep continuing on what you do. 🙂👍
Thanks for the sub! Glad you're enjoying the channel, a few more networking related videos for the coming year hopefully 🤞
nice one!
Thanks! Hope you found it helpful :)
That looks a-lot faster than chopping ends off short cable and soldering all 8 wires onto long cable from the cable box. I remember measuring what I thought was a cross over cable way back when and it worked but were all the same. Then looked up and saw oh on high speed all 4 pairs transmit then 4 pairs receive so it went back to like with Coax so no such thing as crossover for non low speed. Now pass through or not pass through or whatever other type there are.
NICE
Thanks
I bought some CAT6 burial cable and dug out an old pack of rj45 connectors and load bars. However, I can't for the life in me get the wires through the load bar - not even a single one on its own. The wire seems thicker than the hole! Have the connectors changed over the years or does each individual wire on a burial cable have thicker insulation?
It might do - you need to look at the gauge and check the AWG number matches for the cable and the connector. If it's armoured outdoor cable then you might be better off terminating to a keystone jack. I did another video on that here: czcams.com/video/IHxTbtAEd-E/video.html
Nice 👍
Thanks ✌
i did the cables and they work but i made my own wiring squence.. does this affect speed or not ?
It might do, depending on which ones and what interference you might have locally. If it works fine, then I'd be tempted to leave if but if you do have issues (of it it's not just something at your own home) then I'd chop off and redo properly - there's a reason why each one goes where it does.
What people should know is that CAT7 is not a IEEE certified and validated cable. It works fine for sure, but it is not certified. Also, for CAT6A and up shielded/foiled twisted pair cables you have the option to use Hirose connectors and crimping tools. These will crimp the connector while simultaneously crimp the ground wire and strain relief
i wonder since we have switch does straight and crossover cable really matter?
Yeah you hardly ever see crossover cables these days!
wow. whats the use of ground? is that important? is that use to prevent current leakage?
It helps the shield to be more effective by grounding any small currents which might be induced in the wiring. But for that to work, the network switch needs to support it and itself be grounded.
badass
Weird question but will any load bar from let’s say a non shielded rj45 fit in a shielded rj45? I have a cat5e cable that needs repair and I have a cat6 shield rj45 but can’t get the wires in so I’m assuming I need a load bar. Thank you!
You probably have a mismatch on the gauge of the cabling (specified in the AWG number). That's basically the thickness of each of the 8 wires - make sure the cable matches the plug (or load bar) and you'll be fine.
Our company also does this line
I almost always terminate to a keystone. Use a patch cable from there so it's user serviceable. Only when it's a device like an outdoor IP camera do I terminate to RJ45.
Yep, that's standard.
This video was for creating a patch cable. Custom length patch cables keep racks neat and clean.
What do you mean by cat 5 and 6 should be good for 1 gigabit and cat 7 - for 10? I am sure 2.5 and 5 gigabit both work on 5e and 6, and 6 and 6a can carry 10G.
5e will only do 1g. Some 6 will go up to 10g depending on the gauge.
@@paulanderson3898 5e can do 10gig for short distances
I dont even think CAT 7 is even certified yet.
That is the case. There is no purpose for Cat7.
@@0bsmith0 I agree. At those data rates one should be considering fibre.
5:45 on this type of cable tester only the smaller part will tell you that wires are in incorrect order, the larger one can only tell whether you have a missing wire.
Yes, that's correct.
Фига, каждая пара в отдельно оплётке, разные кабеля видел но такого ещё нет
fine video with excellent guide. if we only could get rid of the weak locking spring, that drives me nuts. Hundreds of ethernet cables and still that weak point regardless how much attention i will pay. 🙃😏
Please video make for CAT 8 Ethernet cable Home networking
I have a cable tester that makes all lights glow if it is correct.
Yeah different ones display results differently. That's fine 👍
Take a look at the Telegaertner MFP8 RJ45 connector.
aaah yes I've seen those before. They look cool - might have to get some, try them out and make another video! :)
Pass through with better crimpers can do the job perfectly without hesitation.
I'd tend to agree! :)
Do a video on how to disconnect the wires and use the plug heads again incase you change your location or something goes wrong
These ones aren't reusable