Your videos are amazing. I have used many of your videos for information to help me successful complete a repair. Your videos have made a positive impact on community and have helped keep trucks on the road. Thanks you for taking the time to make them I know at times it probably feels like more Hassel then it's worth but I really appreciate it!
Hi Gordon, just wanted to take a minute and thank you for taking the time to make these videos. I'm sure after a day of working on the truck, outside no less, that video editing must be the last thing you want to do. Thank you and keep up the good work.
Thank You Sir for commenting. Yes the editing does take time but it is another job that needs to be done. I'm self employed in a few different jobs, CZcams videos is just another job the way I look at it, after a year now doing videos I'm finally starting to get paid and the feedback from people proves that it is helping people who want to do their own repair work at home.
I like watching your videos, I watch a lot of these. I like the ones that are regular guys doing real work. I don't have a big rig like you but I do a lot of my own work and like to see the tips others have. I take something away from every video, yours and others. So again thank you and keep up the good work.
10-4 , currently doing the exact same think on my 1995 -12.7 Loved your video series on this endeavor..would have never thought of doing this until I watched them! Great job and thank you, ill let you know how it all works out!
back in the early 90's I did a inframe on a ford with a 290 cummins for a local buddy,he had coolant pouring into the oil pan.I pulled the head,pulled the liners to find very bad electrolysis pits everywhere.Almost through the liners,but worst of all the counterbores were pitted very bad,explains all the coolant in the base.I told him the block should be machined or replaced.He asked me if I could do anything for it,as he was very pressed on the down time.I saidOk,no guarantees.But I will do The best I can for it.I did a pre assembly with no orings on the liners.Protrusion was right on.I then installed all the orings on the liners.Then I coated the liners very good with ultra gray silicone around all the orings,and counter bores on the bottom.Being careful not to get any between the liner flange and counterbore,on top.Then installed the liners and let that silicone cure very well.fortunately that engine ran for many more years until it was tired out.Note if anyone ever tried this in a desperate situation,Make damn sure no silicone gets between the liner flange to the face of the counterbore and check underneath for any loose silicone pieces.
Just 1 tip: Always lube your liner rubber seals intirely. The machined part of the liner where the gaskets sit are thiner, and the liner can rust trough like I saw several times because people did not use enough coolant in their water. Properly greased you protect that groove from corrosion.
I got gap-less rings with last rebuild kit. They pretty cool,the ends of the rings are machined to overlap so no gapping of the rings required. Nice idea but of course made absolutely no difference to the running of the engine! Owner said it running sweet,just like it used to.
Less oil consumption and blow by with these rings.DD13 is like 30 thousand miles between oil changes.Big difference and worth every bit putting them in.
Saw couple old guys at our yard one time they put their money together and got a pint of Kessler whiskey ,one guy saw the the bottle sitting on the fender of a truck more than half gone ,he thought he didn't get his share grabbed it drank it down .It turned out somebody had taken an empty bottle filled it with gas to pour in a carburetor he never did live that down lol
A few people commented on the coffee cup for oil, I still only used 1/2 qt oil to assemble the whole engine, to me it's important to make the most of everything, I mean everything, the average person that I know wastes at least 10 times more than I do, how much $ do they throw in the trash everyday, that's why I try to find the smallest most practical container for the oil or anything else, I only used 1 coffee can of diesel to clean everything, I washed my rags by hand and then again by machine and used them again.
Sir, assuming Matt 25 "sheep and the goats" is correct in its portrayal of Christ's final judgement, i believe these video efforts of yours are putting a big old smile on His face.
Thank you so much! for your video repair DD S60. Please tell me the piston rings come with the cartridges in treir size, or ring are chosen separately.
While good advice,it depends on where you live.I can soak a liner in wd-40 etc here in SNJ and at times it'll still rust in a day.Because of the humidity and being surrounded by the Bay and ocean you literally can watch rust form here.It is crazy and once we dry something after cleaning it HAS to be coated with atf,wd-40 etc even if just for half a day.
Dish soap works wonderful on the liner Orings, anything petroleum based has a tendency of swelling up the rings, grease will swell them up so much it will distort the liner over time.
Hey Gordon, now that you have been driving the truck for a while after the rebuild, any issues with engine? Do you notice a performance difference or is it about the same?
Thanks for asking. It's running about the same as before, it was running fine before the breakdown, it might be running a little bit smoother since it had been about 700,000 miles since the last overhead tune up.
When I was over the road I had to change oil every 2 months or more, the truck was not using as much oil then, I had bought a used oil furnace for my shop and burned the oil in that during the winter, after I went local I sold the oil furnace and put the old wood burner back in it's place. Then the truck was using enough oil between changes that it wasn't worth topping it off every 2-3 weeks with new oil and only changing it 2-3 times a year since it wasn't getting the miles anymore, so I started using up the old oil from the last change since it was only about 6 gallons or so. Now that the truck won't be using so much oil anymore I will need to take the oil someplace for recycling.
How do I know if I need engine rebuild? I have mbe4000 with 3 200 000 km on it. I mean it drives, it is good on fuel 30 liters per 100 km/hr. It doesn’t spent oil except a gallon between oil change but it leaks a little bit somewhere between engine and transmission and sixt cylinder is leaking coolant but not much maybe a gallon I have to add every 3, 4 months. I knock on the wood not to curse it
Gordon, im currently doing the same thing to my 60 series, im wondering if you needed to shim or shave any of the sleeves to get within required tolerances.. Everybody I talk to says it needs to be done or inframe will blowhard gasket, or have other issues in the first 50k miles..
I have coolant coming from a weep hole behind the start on my series 60. The shop said its a sign of a bad liner and should do an inframe. Does this sound accurate to u? The engine has 547k miles on it
Some people frown on the idea but I would try some "Bar's Leaks" or any stop leak for cars before going into an in frame job. Also check your phosphate level, that's what protects from pitting in the motor.
got a 60 series det. sometimes not all the time i get a vibration at 1500 rpm.is this harmonic balancer or possibly 5 inch exhaust going into 4 inch pipes
My opinion, a lot of could be's but I'm pretty sure it's not the exhaust, or the balance pulley if it's intermittent, the clutch can do that, the fan, or maybe an injector, are you sure it is the engine at that rpm at any truck speed? or could it be in the wheels or driveshaft?
it seems to be at 1500. but if ive been pulling a big hill with a heavy load i can almost gaurentee it will start doing it. the clutch does sound like a better possibility. would it stop if i ajusted it perhaps?. but regardless it is coming from that part of the drive trian.. thanks for your input,,
If it's the clutch, it doesn't matter if it's pulling hard or coasting at that speed, if the clutch is old and worn out it could have pieces of friction material or hub springs coming out and leaving it out of balance, if the clutch adjustment is too high and you have no free play, you could be having issues with the throwout bearing being in constant play. could be's.
Are you sure it's engine oil? maybe it's diesel, Injector cups can do that and have coolant get in the fuel as well. need to pressure check the cooling system to see if coolant will leak into the engine or into the fuel tank.
Thanks for asking, I don't have anything new right now but I have over 200 old ones here you can pick through. If I don't get anything new soon I'll re do something from the old videos and make a new one that way.
Gordon Robertson I've heard Volvo's seem cushy on the lot, but are bad to drive and worse to work on, and things fall apart far faster than they should.
Thanks for the thought, but this job caught me at an extreme disadvantage financially and having no choice but to do it myself outside in January and machining the block was not an option, so I checked the thickness of the ridge on top of the new liner and the old liner and they are exactly the same so I didn't worry about the deck height knowing it would be the same as before. These videos are to show what I had to do to fix whatever I need to, I don't claim to be a politically correct school. Thanks for following.
Sir ...you getting the job done and I believe that motor going to run just fine..:). Did you say it had a million + miles before it sucked that valve...?
Wow! I give it less than 5,000 miles before it's seeping coolant from everywhere. How bout making a follow-up video on the longevity of that overhaul. I'd pay more attention to detail rebuilding my lawn mower engine. 😄 Sorry, I'm an aircraft mechanic. We do things a little differently with a lot more attention to detail. For obvious reasons. I mean you can't just pull off the side of the road when things quit working. But I may be a little to critical for an in-frame overhaul on a truck engine in some peoples eyes.
I watched a aircraft mechanic break a cam in a wheel loader spraying a can of starting fluid when I tried to stop him the owner of the machine said he knows what he's doing he works on aircraft I cold smell the starting fluid a mile away 😆 🤣
How do I know if I need engine rebuild? I have mbe4000 with 3 200 000 km on it. I mean it drives, it is good on fuel 30 liters per 100 km/hr. It doesn’t spent oil except a gallon between oil change but it leaks a little bit somewhere between engine and transmission and sixt cylinder is leaking coolant but not much maybe a gallon I have to add every 3, 4 months. I knock on the wood not to curse it
Your videos are amazing. I have used many of your videos for information to help me successful complete a repair. Your videos have made a positive impact on community and have helped keep trucks on the road. Thanks you for taking the time to make them I know at times it probably feels like more Hassel then it's worth but I really appreciate it!
Hi Gordon, just wanted to take a minute and thank you for taking the time to make these videos. I'm sure after a day of working on the truck, outside no less, that video editing must be the last thing you want to do. Thank you and keep up the good work.
Thank You Sir for commenting. Yes the editing does take time but it is another job that needs to be done. I'm self employed in a few different jobs, CZcams videos is just another job the way I look at it, after a year now doing videos I'm finally starting to get paid and the feedback from people proves that it is helping people who want to do their own repair work at home.
I like watching your videos, I watch a lot of these. I like the ones that are regular guys doing real work. I don't have a big rig like you but I do a lot of my own work and like to see the tips others have. I take something away from every video, yours and others. So again thank you and keep up the good work.
10-4 , currently doing the exact same think on my 1995 -12.7
Loved your video series on this endeavor..would have never thought of doing this until I watched them! Great job and thank you, ill let you know how it all works out!
Oh my god im glad you stopped and corrected that over lapping ring when your were checking the first ring end gap. you were scaring me
Inspirational series of videos. You demonstrate great patients and resolve.
Thank you Sir.
Very good videos. Learned lots already from this series.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
back in the early 90's I did a inframe on a ford with a 290 cummins for a local buddy,he had coolant pouring into the oil pan.I pulled the head,pulled the liners to find very bad electrolysis pits everywhere.Almost through the liners,but worst of all the counterbores were pitted very bad,explains all the coolant in the base.I told him the block should be machined or replaced.He asked me if I could do anything for it,as he was very pressed on the down time.I saidOk,no guarantees.But I will do The best I can for it.I did a pre assembly with no orings on the liners.Protrusion was right on.I then installed all the orings on the liners.Then I coated the liners very good with ultra gray silicone around all the orings,and counter bores on the bottom.Being careful not to get any between the liner flange and counterbore,on top.Then installed the liners and let that silicone cure very well.fortunately that engine ran for many more years until it was tired out.Note if anyone ever tried this in a desperate situation,Make damn sure no silicone gets between the liner flange to the face of the counterbore and check underneath for any loose silicone pieces.
Where there's a will there's a way. Thanks for watching.
Thats pretty awesome!
I subscribed! I love the 60 series. very informal videos.
Thank You Sir. I hope you enjoy the DIY videos.
I've found out the hard way. There is no money in owning your own truck if it's at the mercy of a shop all the time.
I like your vids,keep em coming brother 👍
Thank you Sir.
i love the work you do
God bless you sir
Thanks for watching.
Looking good Gordon
Thanks Eric.
Gordon you are THE MAN!
Just 1 tip: Always lube your liner rubber seals intirely. The machined part of the liner where the gaskets sit are thiner, and the liner can rust trough like I saw several times because people did not use enough coolant in their water. Properly greased you protect that groove from corrosion.
good series, thanks. i wish they made car engines this easily rebuildable
Thanks for watching.
The liner flange never wears the counter bores sink some times on pre egrs and alot on the egr 60s
I got gap-less rings with last rebuild kit. They pretty cool,the ends of the rings are machined to overlap so no gapping of the rings required. Nice idea but of course made absolutely no difference to the running of the engine! Owner said it running sweet,just like it used to.
Less oil consumption and blow by with these rings.DD13 is like 30 thousand miles between oil changes.Big difference and worth every bit putting them in.
Love these videos- thank you so much
Thank You Sir for watching and commenting.
Saw couple old guys at our yard one time they put their money together and got a pint of Kessler whiskey ,one guy saw the the bottle sitting on the fender of a truck more than half gone ,he thought he didn't get his share grabbed it drank it down .It turned out somebody had taken an empty bottle filled it with gas to pour in a carburetor he never did live that down lol
A few people commented on the coffee cup for oil, I still only used 1/2 qt oil to assemble the whole engine, to me it's important to make the most of everything, I mean everything, the average person that I know wastes at least 10 times more than I do, how much $ do they throw in the trash everyday, that's why I try to find the smallest most practical container for the oil or anything else, I only used 1 coffee can of diesel to clean everything, I washed my rags by hand and then again by machine and used them again.
@@57bagre always used old clothes for rags
Awesome videos
Thank you Sir.
Sir, assuming Matt 25 "sheep and the goats" is correct in its portrayal of Christ's final judgement, i believe these video efforts of yours are putting a big old smile on His face.
Sure hope you changed the thrust plate seals
Thank you so much! for your video repair DD S60. Please tell me the piston rings come with the cartridges in treir size, or ring are chosen separately.
The ring sets are packed with the liners in the rebuild kit. Thanks for asking.
to prevent rust on metal surfaces like that just spray something like wd40 or some thin oil on it and you wont get surface rust for a while
While good advice,it depends on where you live.I can soak a liner in wd-40 etc here in SNJ and at times it'll still rust in a day.Because of the humidity and being surrounded by the Bay and ocean you literally can watch rust form here.It is crazy and once we dry something after cleaning it HAS to be coated with atf,wd-40 etc even if just for half a day.
An old southern way is to use olive oil cooking spray.
fogging oil is what you want to spray.
Great video thanks
Thank you Sir.
Dish soap works wonderful on the liner Orings, anything petroleum based has a tendency of swelling up the rings, grease will swell them up so much it will distort the liner over time.
I think I saw a sliver of wood fall into that first cylinder.
What book did you use, im trying to buy one so I can rebuild my motor
Hey Gordon, now that you have been driving the truck for a while after the rebuild, any issues with engine? Do you notice a performance difference or is it about the same?
Thanks for asking. It's running about the same as before, it was running fine before the breakdown, it might be running a little bit smoother since it had been about 700,000 miles since the last overhead tune up.
Is it posable a petroleum product will effect the rubber o rings
Perhaps dish soap would be better
don't you want a little bigger for turbo engines?
Sounds good Gordon Im afraid to ask what you do with all your drain oil lol . Just as long as you dont drink your coffee out of an oil can lol.
When I was over the road I had to change oil every 2 months or more, the truck was not using as much oil then, I had bought a used oil furnace for my shop and burned the oil in that during the winter, after I went local I sold the oil furnace and put the old wood burner back in it's place. Then the truck was using enough oil between changes that it wasn't worth topping it off every 2-3 weeks with new oil and only changing it 2-3 times a year since it wasn't getting the miles anymore, so I started using up the old oil from the last change since it was only about 6 gallons or so. Now that the truck won't be using so much oil anymore I will need to take the oil someplace for recycling.
Gordon Robertson I go through the same thing if I don't stay on top of it I end up with more old oil than I know what to do with.
good video
Thank you sir
Hey Gordon you ever grab the wrong coffee cup and take a big drink lol
No, but I don't drink coffee when I'm working' I do make plenty of mistakes though, I won't tell about all of them.
The " tail" of those dial indicators is called the depth gage..
I'm surprised You let me get away with calling it a dial indicator instead of a dial caliper, thanks Mark.
should be 7psi on the radiator cap
The relief in the top of the block is called the counter-bore. It's extremely important that it is clean and rust free when installing new liners.
it is.
Gordon Robertson do you know of a mobile counter bore milling service? I want to shim my liners.
Hi Gordon. Is the Series 60 your favorite engine?
Hi, What if I use gasket sealant for "reparing" the damage shown at: 10:40 ? Any good idea?
Smart man u r
Also your counterbores are pitted. You need to use extended life coolant
u should have repaired counterbores with shims or new inserts. hope u don't blow a head gasket.
I need to now how to set up timing with bullgear on a 60 ceares Detroit
Get a shop manual or have a shop print out the pages on that for you. I am not going to be doing a bull gear video. Thanks for watching.
How do I know if I need engine rebuild? I have mbe4000 with 3 200 000 km on it. I mean it drives, it is good on fuel 30 liters per 100 km/hr. It doesn’t spent oil except a gallon between oil change but it leaks a little bit somewhere between engine and transmission and sixt cylinder is leaking coolant but not much maybe a gallon I have to add every 3, 4 months. I knock on the wood not to curse it
Gordon, im currently doing the same thing to my 60 series, im wondering if you needed to shim or shave any of the sleeves to get within required tolerances..
Everybody I talk to says it needs to be done or inframe will blowhard gasket, or have other issues in the first 50k miles..
I didn't do that, I just measured the height of the rim with a dial caliper on the old ones and the new ones and they were the same.
How is engine holding up without cutting the block, just wondering im in same boat as you were and thinking about doing overhaul myself
Truck is running just fine, I'm hauling overweight permit loads everyday right now. Thanks for asking.
Thanks for your time for replying
love watching your videos, thank you. but oops you forgot the spark plugs.
Thanks for watching Alex.
I have coolant coming from a weep hole behind the start on my series 60. The shop said its a sign of a bad liner and should do an inframe. Does this sound accurate to u? The engine has 547k miles on it
Some people frown on the idea but I would try some "Bar's Leaks" or any stop leak for cars before going into an in frame job. Also check your phosphate level, that's what protects from pitting in the motor.
got a 60 series det. sometimes not all the time i get a vibration at 1500 rpm.is this harmonic balancer or possibly 5 inch exhaust going into 4 inch pipes
My opinion, a lot of could be's but I'm pretty sure it's not the exhaust, or the balance pulley if it's intermittent, the clutch can do that, the fan, or maybe an injector, are you sure it is the engine at that rpm at any truck speed? or could it be in the wheels or driveshaft?
it seems to be at 1500. but if ive been pulling a big hill with a heavy load i can almost gaurentee it will start doing it. the clutch does sound like a better possibility. would it stop if i ajusted it perhaps?. but regardless it is coming from that part of the drive trian.. thanks for your input,,
If it's the clutch, it doesn't matter if it's pulling hard or coasting at that speed, if the clutch is old and worn out it could have pieces of friction material or hub springs coming out and leaving it out of balance, if the clutch adjustment is too high and you have no free play, you could be having issues with the throwout bearing being in constant play. could be's.
thats helpful for sure. had another mechanic confirm what you just said . sounds like time for a new clutch.
@@MrJeff524 Jeff, did it end up being the clutch?
Hope youre well. Miss your videos n insight.
Thank you. Yes I'm very well just swamped with too much work and trying to get ready for winter.
Do u do videos for cumins N14?
I have Detroit s60 and oil in coolant. I replace oil cooler and still oil in coolant. What is the next step?
Are you sure it's engine oil? maybe it's diesel, Injector cups can do that and have coolant get in the fuel as well. need to pressure check the cooling system to see if coolant will leak into the engine or into the fuel tank.
You have cavitated liners. Need to replace cyl kits and cut counterbores if they look like this guy's. Its never the oil cooler on S60.
Is that kit a Genuine Detroit from freightliner , or 1 off the Internet .
The machine shop who did the head ordered the kit for me, it's aftermarket and the shop said they've had good luck with those parts.
Hey were you been. I'm waiting on your videos.
Thanks for asking, I don't have anything new right now but I have over 200 old ones here you can pick through. If I don't get anything new soon I'll re do something from the old videos and make a new one that way.
If that was a Volvo it would come with 5 jars of Vaseline:)
I'm a little slow, is that a joke about the cost? or literally they provide the grease?
It's for the pain in ass you have when you work on it:)
I heard Volvo is the best truck to drive but the worst to work on.
It's true, Mack is terrible to drive and to work on:)
Gordon Robertson I've heard Volvo's seem cushy on the lot, but are bad to drive and worse to work on, and things fall apart far faster than they should.
I wish I could loan you my Brown & Sharpe BestTest indicator and my surface gage..
Thanks for the thought, but this job caught me at an extreme disadvantage financially and having no choice but to do it myself outside in January and machining the block was not an option, so I checked the thickness of the ridge on top of the new liner and the old liner and they are exactly the same so I didn't worry about the deck height knowing it would be the same as before. These videos are to show what I had to do to fix whatever I need to, I don't claim to be a politically correct school. Thanks for following.
Sir ...you getting the job done and I believe that motor going to run just fine..:). Did you say it had a million + miles before it sucked that valve...?
Almost 1.5 m.
Use non drying silicone rather than petroleum for a silicone seal that otherwise would never see petroleum in any way.
Hi gordon . How much did you end up spending for the overhaul ?
$4200
Thank you gordon for the quick reply . And btw great videos !!!!!
thanks.
Ha Ha, a block of wood. We used to stand over them and stomp them in. Especially on a dry liner, them things were a bitch.
Thanks for watching.
You need a liner press
Is that a PAI rebuilt kit?
yes.
👍💪
Is there a way to contact you outside of your channel?
gordonrdiy@yahoo.com
I would have cut the liner seats they're pitted
i would have reused the steel pistons they last longer
The new pistons are cast iron. Thanks for watching.
+Gordon Robertson ok cool they will be long lasting and great videos by the way
How did you learn so much? Who was your teacher?
I like understanding how things work so I ask questions and study a lot online, CZcams helps the most. Thanks Steven.
hi how much did the rebuild cost you ?
About $4200.00
What is a an inframe?? What is an overhaul?? What is a rebuild??
liquid soap
Checking the rings before installing is a complete waste of time
If you listened he only did it because of people commenting about it,so in order to please them he showed it.
Surface rust= WD40.
Wow! I give it less than 5,000 miles before it's seeping coolant from everywhere. How bout making a follow-up video on the longevity of that overhaul. I'd pay more attention to detail rebuilding my lawn mower engine. 😄
Sorry, I'm an aircraft mechanic. We do things a little differently with a lot more attention to detail. For obvious reasons. I mean you can't just pull off the side of the road when things quit working. But I may be a little to critical for an in-frame overhaul on a truck engine in some peoples eyes.
Do care to elaborate on what you would do differently?
I watched a aircraft mechanic break a cam in a wheel loader spraying a can of starting fluid when I tried to stop him the owner of the machine said he knows what he's doing he works on aircraft I cold smell the starting fluid a mile away 😆 🤣
How do I know if I need engine rebuild? I have mbe4000 with 3 200 000 km on it. I mean it drives, it is good on fuel 30 liters per 100 km/hr. It doesn’t spent oil except a gallon between oil change but it leaks a little bit somewhere between engine and transmission and sixt cylinder is leaking coolant but not much maybe a gallon I have to add every 3, 4 months. I knock on the wood not to curse it