How To Build a Remote Control Trap for Ferals
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- čas přidán 21. 05. 2016
- Video instructions for DIY build a kit to convert a standard spring trap into a remote control trap.
(OPTION FOR TRUCATCH GRAVITY TRAP ---- I recently became aware of a brilliant alternative - specifically for use on the Trucatch gravity trap. Check out this video. It is very simple and easy to use and actually costs about the same as the automobile door lock system. It is a Drone Clip Release.... • Make a CHEAP Remote Tr...
UPDATE on battery pack (2019 September)
Apparently Jameco no longer carries the 8cell AA battery holder shown in the video.
Alternate sources.....
Ebay:
Battery Holder Storage 8x AA 12V DC Power Supply Portable Compact 12.6x7.1x2cm
SuperbrightLEDs.com:
12V DC Battery Power Supply - 8-Cell AA Battery Holder - with Cover
Part Number: BPSCS-12VDC-AA
Amazon.com:
CO-RODE 8 x AA 12V Battery Holder Case Box Wired ON/Off Switch w Cover Pack of 2
***** Here is a comment from one of my viewers who has built 5 of these remote traps and has trapped 100's of cats using the trap......
The batteries last a long time. Maybe 6 months of heavy trapping. You just have to remember to turn the remote off when not in use. I LOVE the remote traps. I have 5 and I always take at least 2 with me. I also lend them out whenever possible. My serious trapping friends have made one as well. I have trapped HUNDREDS of cats using your super great remote control trap. I especially love them for catching kittens. I load the trap with food and wait for as many kittens as possible to go in the trap. I've caught 6 at once! These traps make my trapping very successful. Perfect for kittens, bait stealers, selective trapping. Why wait and hope the cat will step on the foot plate when I can use a remote control trap? I just transfer the cat into another trap and continue to use the remote. They work perfectly! Thank you for sharing your ingenious invention!!!
So thanks to a lot of help from Karl , I set up the remote trap and got back an inside cat that had gotten out. Even though he'd been rescued with his sister as a feral kitten, he'd never really been socialized and would have been impossible to catch otherwise. A thousand thanks to Karl. The trap will be invaluable with a feral colony I'm caring for and TNR'ing.
I love hearing these success stories! Glad that Paisley is back in the house.
🐾🐾 OUTSTANDING VIDEO‼️I couldn’t stop watching. But l took notes & I’ll be ordering everything I need today. I’ve NEVER ONCE done anything like this. I’m doing it because l need a new RC trap that’s smaller. A kind person in my cat rescue group made 10
drop-trap sized RC traps for active trappers, including me. Once I convert my largest standard trap, I’ll give my other set up to someone in our organization. THANK YOU FOR MAKING THIS VIDEO‼️‼️‼️
Your friend in the cat rescue group is truly kind and a good human. I recently corresponded with a trapper who mentioned that he had build 10 RC traps - I wonder if it's the same person. Is his initials RN? I love to hear success stories!
@@hoc31rescue He truly is very kind & loves cats. My friend’s initials are NC.
@@Sunnytrailrunner It is always heartwarming to hear about those who help our little furry friends.
Great idea. We are building a few for Operation Catnip in Gainesville Florida. U of F.
Thanks so much for this information. Laser trap off the market now.
Thank you. I just looked at your website - - great operation you have. Congratulations on its success.
Thank you for sharing these instructions. I can't wait to make a remote control trap instead of buying an expensive one.
+The Stanley and Peepers Show You are welcome. If I need to clear up any questions or issues, just let me know.
I am a cat friend of June's and we trap cats together and I have been wanting a remote control but they were too expensive. Thanks to you, I ordered the parts today and if my husband as any questions regarding building it, I will let you know. I am very excited about using your device to catch more cats. Thank you for posting this video and making it very clear what parts needed to be ordered. You made it so easy!
The Stanley and Peepers Show You are very welcome. Say 'Hello' to June for me.
wow ur a genius!!! so much better than paying 160 for a company made one...
Thank you
Great video ! Thanks ! Saved me a lot of money !
You are very welcome. I hope it works well for you.
Thank you for this video. I have ferals that need to be trapped. However, I don't need to trap the ones that have already been trapped. Hopefully I can build this.
Myra, you are very welcome. If you have any questions, you may contact me via email at hoc.288lives@yahoo.com.
You can see a video from another viewer who has built five of these traps and has trapped 100's of cats using the remote trap. Here is the link....
czcams.com/video/o-q0NW1xjPU/video.html
Thank you so much!
You are welcome.
Thank you so much for this video! Can you think of a way to modify a drop trap in a similar way?
czcams.com/video/tHaELqyo9UY/video.html
I have made a few attempts at designing a remote controlled drop trap, but the problem is that the small solenoid trigger (remote car door lock) has a very low pull-strength. Most of the weight of a drop trap in the "up/open" position will rest completely on this small trigger. The weight of the trap tends ot overpower the pull-strength of the solenoid and so nothing happens. BUT.... another option is to use the drop trap as a "box trap". With the trap placed flat on the ground, and the sliding door open, then the solenoid only has to support the weight of the door - and it works perfectly. Here is a link to a video posted by a rescuer friend who uses the remote car door lock mechanism for both her spring traps AND her drop traps. Check it out. It is simple and straightforward. If you will contact me by email at hoc.288lives@yahoo.com I will share with you my write-up and sketches on the design ideas I have for a traditional drop trap set-up.
Here is the video to the remote box trap...... czcams.com/video/tHaELqyo9UY/video.html
Cool, this is what I came into the comments to ask-
Except I have taken to using med/large metal dog kennel style cage as drop trap.
I use a length of paracord routed through the rear, hooked to the middle of the door w/a carabiner.
A few good sized bricks allow for some tension to be used when pulling the door closed and keeping it taught when approaching to lock the latches.
I stumbled upon a vid of a hog trap using cellular, and a type of solenoid to release the door to fall. remote/wifi cameras and solar panels maintain the battery, so everything can be very remotely operated.
Which lead me here.
I want to design/build a trigger that can be used w/the kennel style door, remotely. I've spent many stressful hours holding on the end of a line, waiting, hoping not to be noticed.
A remote would be much more useful.
I just have to figure how to close & latch the door automatically, after engaging the trigger.
Awesome!
I can't find the Jameco battery holder on their site or others. I'm assuming that you liked that one because it lies flat rather than the bulkier box with four batteries on top of four batteries ?
Thank you for notifying me about the battery holder. I have no real preference for the shape or size of the battery holder - as long as it is 12volts and I have a container that is large enough to contain the holder as well as the other components. I have added a list of alternate sources for the battery holder in the video description above...
From the car remote kit, I've got two green and two blue wires that are much longer than the rest that have "plugs" on the end, and then blue,green,white, black and brown wires which are shorter and have "plugs" on the end of them. The strip that plugs in to the box with antenna has two brown, two white, a green , blue, red and black wire. Can you help with what to do with all these wires please ? Thank you !
I sent an email to you with a detailed wiring diagram plus additional photo of the kit installed in a container.
@@hoc31rescue can you email this to me? I sent you an email just now
Hi Hoc31, what is approx costs for all parts and time for labor once you "had it down?"
The price of the trap depends on the trap size and brand, but the one in the video cost me less than $20. The price for a keyless universal car door lock system varies greatly and seems to have increased since I posted the video. I found several brands on Amazon.com for $30 - $35 (InstallGear Keyless Entry System. KKmoon Universal Car Door Lock Keyless Entry System. X AUTOHAUX 4 Doors Central Lock Locking System). The 12 volt battery pack is available on Amazon for less than $10 (abcGoodefg 2 Pack 8 x 12V AA Battery Holder Case Box with ON/Off Switch and Leads Wire Cover). The enclosure/box/container for the receiver can be just about any type of box or container (free). So, my setup (including the trap) cost me less than $45. Today, the same setup would likely cost between $50 - $60 (including a medium size trap)
Help. How can I do this to a gravity trap. This appears to be spring loaded. Trucatch trigger rod can't simply be unnatached.
Kiira, It's been almost a year since you posted this comment/question. I apologize if I never responded. I have made modifications to the system allowing it to work of a gravity trap, but recently I became aware of a brilliant alternative - specifically for use on the Trucatch gravity trap. Check out this video. It is very simple and easy to use and actually costs about the same as the automobile door lock system. It is a Drone Clip Release.... czcams.com/video/J7qoQ_u33sc/video.html
is there even the slightest amount of noise emitted from the remote when it's triggered? I know the door will make noise when it's dropping.
The "remote" key fob makes no noise. The trigger mounted to the trap does retract when triggered thereby releasing the door. There is some sound associated with the retraction, but the sound is not loud and is simultaneous with the door closing.
great idea. what kind of range can you get with the remote?
I have not checked the maximum range. The solenoid is made for an automobile remote lock, so I would imagine the range would be comparable to a normal key fob to unlock a car. I have successfully used the remote trap at distances in excess of 75ft.
thats pretty good still.. would the solenoid pull a pin for a sprung door pig trap?
I do not know the measured pull strength of the solenoid, but I believe it to be quite low. If the spring on the trap door is strong (which will exert more pressure on the trigger), this device will likely not dislodge the trigger. The spring trap in my video has a small hook seated on the trigger with a free-spinning ferrule. This essentially creates a very short pull on the trigger, so depending on your trap (how much pull is needed to trigger the trap), then maybe it will work for you. (sorry if this doesn't answer your question. I have no experience with a pig trap).
Operation Catnip Gvl. Fla. has done over 50,000 TNR in the last 20 years. Think we could adapt your system to tomahawk drop trap?
50K TNRs - That's truly impressive.
A couple of years ago I was toying with the idea of a remote controlled drop trap, and I worked up a trigger design... just never got around to building it. The Tomahawk Drop Trap could definitely be used with some minor modifications to be remotely triggered using the same automotive lock mechanism. If you will contact me via my personal email, I will gladly share with you my ideas for the design. hoc.288lives@yahoo.com
@@hoc31rescue I hope it's okay if I contact you to get your thoughts on how to modify your creation for a drop trap. :)
@@porchelovely1602 I will reply to your email within the hour
@@hoc31rescue I used a drop trap, but I didn't drop it. I cut a piece of 3/16 foam board to fit in the channels of the release door. It's held in the open position by the wire from the actuator going through a small hole in the foam. I added some metal mending plates or some such for weight. The remote was strapped on top of the trap
@@ricknelson2940 I like your suggestion of lightweight foam core. I was working on a similar idea using melamine board (also with hole through which the actuator wire protruded.) The foam core would have been a better choice as the melamine was just heavy enough that the pull strength of the actuator was unable to overcome the friction of the wire through the hole.
Hi - Just ordered the parts for this remote. could you please send the wire connecting instructions to me. Thanks this will make it so much easier to trap target cats.
Hello Scifier1,
I responded to your request via the CZcams email app. I attached two schematics for the remote control wiring, but I am unsure if CZcams email feature will allow and send the attachments.
If you do not receive an email, or you receive the email (without) attachments, please contact me through my personal email address.... hoc.288lives@yahoo.com
I will reply with the proper attachments.
I received your email this morning and have replied with the schematics. Please let me know if you have any questions (or if you did not receive my reply).
Can the other 3 locking solenoids be used if you purchase another control box w/remotes and battery box?
I had the same thought when I purchased the locking system. It was several years ago and I do not recall if I ever attempted to trigger one of the other solenoids separately with the receiver & remote. It would be worth a try. I will attempt it tomorrow and post an answer here. (but even if you can, I am uncertain if the control box and remote can be purchased separately)
@@hoc31rescue Yes they can, I saw a box and 2 remotes for $11.00 on ebay. That's what got me thinking
@@hoc31rescue Someone on the comments said you can only either extend or retract, not both. If you are trapping cats, you would only need to do either depending on how the release works. So let's say when you retract it all you need to do is manually pull the plunger out and your ready again.
@@striker273 You are absolutely correct. I just went into the garage and connected ONLY one of the slave solenoids to the receiver/controller. The trigger action is ONLY one direction - either extend or retract depending on the polarity connection to the controller. And yes, I agree... with the trigger set to retract (release trap door), then a simple manual pull/extend of the plunger will have you ready again. And if you are able to purchase just the receiver and matching remote fob separately, then you are good to go. I just did a Google search on "universal remote central locking system". Numerous versions available online (Walmart, Newegg, USA Banggood). These all had two remotes, the receiver and a wiring harness. Prices ranged from $15 to $20 and up.
@@striker273 I looked back through the comments. It was about a year ago and the comment about retract or extend was from me (I forgot about that). At the time I tried to determine the answer to his question by analyzing the vague schematic. Luckily I did not remember doing that and today I just plugged the 2-wire trigger into the receiver and pressed the remote. Thanks for getting me to think again. I updated my response to the year-old comment as well.
How much would you charge for the 'kit' sent in the USA? TIA
Shellie B. There are various types and sizes of traps with various trigger mechanisms. Most are the same, but a few may be different. The basic "4 door central locking system for cars" will likely work on any type and size of trap, but the connection to the trap trigger may be slightly different for each type of trap. So it is not one-size-fits-all, but making it fit is very simple with very basic tools and available materials as shown in the video. I have had numerous people with few resources and no experience successfully modify their personal trap. Just search on internet for "4 door central lock system for car". There are many companies that produce a reliable product. I purchased mine on Amazon.com. I just did a quick search on Amazon and found several ranging in price from $25 to $35 each. If you decide to build one yourself, and have ANY questions, you may contact me at hoc.288lives@yahoo.com. Really, it is not difficult to do. Here is a link to one of the lock systems on Amazon......
www.amazon.com/XYZCTEM-Central-Conversion-Entry-Universal-Vehicles/dp/B016RUV8Z2/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=2+door+central+lock+system&qid=1585797031&s=automotive&sr=1-6
Hey there,
I’m pretty inexperienced with wiring and electronics but I’m hoping that you might be able to help me with a few questions?
Does the fuse need to stay attached when connecting to a 12v AA power supply? Or is that mostly for automative use?
Do I need to connect the red and black (ground) cables to the red and black of the 12v PSU?
Thanks in advance
You are correct. The fuse link is unnecessary for this application using AA batteries. (as you pointed out, it is designed to protect an automotive circuit from potentially high amps from car battery).
Yes, your dc power source/power supply should be connected to the black and red wires.
Thanks so much for your help!
Today I was able to convert a regular trap into a remote controlled one using this video.
I had difficulty getting the latch to release the trap door each time as the wire wouldn’t always pull in a straight line.
I ended up using cable ties to secure the control box as I wanted it to be a permanent fixture.
It took a lot of trial and error to get it right, but it works :)
@@marc.ncrypt I love to read about success stories. Congrats. Sometimes trial-and-error are the best teachers. Last week I corresponded with a viewer who was able to buy just the receiver and used them to build extra remote traps using the extra slave solenoids that come with the master solenoid. He built ten remote traps for local rescuers/trappers.
@@hoc31rescue I was looking into buying just the control box to use with the other locking mechanisms.
Would I need to buy a kit had the same wiring diagram and colours?
Or is it easy enough to match them up even though they used different coloured cables?
@@marc.ncrypt I just looked on Amazon and found several kits with only the receiver, a wiring harness and the key fobs. A company called FICBOX makes a couple different models for $15 - $20. It should not be necessary to purchase a kit with the same wiring diagram because the (extra) solenoids/locking mechanisms are "dumb". They should have only two wires that only need a voltage which can be supplied by the "universal" kit receiver. You may need to use a little trial-and-error to get the mismatched color wires attached correctly, but from the wiring diagrams I saw online, It should be pretty simple (and with the low voltage and low amperage, you will not damage anything if wired incorrectly during the trial-and-error phase). I am unable to post any photos or diagrams here in the comments section, but if you contact me thru my email at hoc.288lives@yahoo.com I will reply with additional information on these diagrams.
Can this be modified to power a single two wire door lock. What would they wiring diagram look like
Thomas Ryan: The 2-wire door locks can easily be activated (extended or retracted) by simply applying +/- 12VDC to the two leads. Reversing the positive and negative connections will reverse the activation (extend or retract the mechanism). But the instructions/schematic included with the remote lock system does not indicate how the receiver controls the main trigger. It seems unlikely that the manufacturer would design the system such that the 2-wire triggers could operate without the master trigger that connects to the receiver. I measured the voltages on the leads coming out of the receiver and attempted to connect the 2-wire trigger directly to the receiver but was unsuccessful. Sorry, but I think the answer to your question is 'no', unless another reader sees your question and has suggestion.
Thanks for trying. Seems to me like it should be possible though.
I agree. It may not be as versatile as the master trigger, but I suspect if you can determine which wire from the receiver produces the 12volts when the remote is pushed, then you could connect directly to that wire and the remote should activate that trigger. (this method will likely have the ability to only extend OR retract the trigger; not both)
@@thomasryan4697 Today (1 year AFTER your original comment) another viewer asked the same question. This time, rather than analyze the schematic, I connected a 2-wire trigger (blue and green wires) to the blue and green wire outputs of the receiver. It worked fine - but only in on direction (extend or retract). Here is my response to the other commenter......... I just went into the garage and connected ONLY one of the slave solenoids to the receiver/controller. The trigger action is ONLY one direction - either extend or retract depending on the polarity connection to the controller. And yes, I agree... with the trigger set to retract (release trap door), then a simple manual pull/extend of the plunger will have you ready again. And if you are able to purchase just the receiver and matching remote fob separately, then you are good to go. I just did a Google search on "universal remote central locking system". Numerous versions available online (Walmart, Newegg, USA Banggood). These all had two remotes, the receiver and a wiring harness. Prices ranged from $15 to $20 and up.
@@hoc31rescue After I assembled the remote (thanks for the great instructions) I tested it to make sure it worked.
Then I disconnected all the wires between the receiver and the five wire actuator and connected only the red and green wires to a two wire actuator. Worked fine and it retracted. I switched the green and blue wires and it extended.
If you needed to switch retraction to extension a lot, you could put in a small DPDT switch.
The set from Amazon with four actuators is about $30.
A set with no actuators is $18. So four sets is $120, and a set of four plus three sets with no actuators is $84. That's $21 each vs $30 each. That's without batteries and the case.
I remember someone asking what the pull and push force was. The package that the kit came in said 3 kg each way.
I bought the components and put this together, but it doesn't seem to work. The 12-V power source is sending power to the receiver (I tested). And the key fob lights light up when I press them. But the solanoid does not retract or extent. I can't imagine what the trouble would be. Splice the same color wires together...and...? Any thoughts to trouble-shoot?
The brown wire is receiving power, but white, green, and blue ones are not
Erik, I agree there is not much to troubleshoot. Presuming the system worked when it left the manufacturer, the possible issues are with the splices themselves. The system comes with 10ft wires and you did what I did - cut the wires to shorten and then re-splice same colors (and red and black goes to power). Your comment states that power (+12v) is getting to the receiver (some battery holders have a very small on/off switch), so it seems you do not have a problem there as long as you are getting the 12 volts out of the battery pack. I would suggest manually extending and/or retracting the mechanism, then try both the lock & unlock buttons on the fob. The only other thing would be to ensure that your splices are solid and continuity is good (you could have power to the receiver, but if one of the signal wires from receiver to solenoid is open... then it will not work. It's been awhile since I looked at the schematic, but I recall two sets of white and brown wires from the receiver. One set goes to the solenoid and one set goes to ground. I let the ground float (not connected to anything), but the other white and brown wires must be connected to solenoid (any chance you have those connections reversed?) If you email me at hoc.288lives@yahoo.com I will send to you close up photos of my wiring connections.
I've sent you a couple pics - thanks for the help!
@@hoc31rescue I am having the same problem. Do the black wires from the battery box, the solenoid, and the lock all attach to each other. I get a clicking sound from the solenoid, but no action.
I simply cut off all of my connectors and started over. It works fine. Thanks so much for posting your video. This is going to really help with trapping the last few "hard to trap" cats in this colony!
The wiring it confusing. There are two blacks, two whites and two browns. Could you clarify?
My apologies for my delayed response (I did not see your comment until today). It's been 5 months since you posted a comment. Were you able to resolve your issue with the wiring of the remote trap? If you need additional information, you can contact me at 288.hoc@yahoo.com and I can send to you additional photos and sketches of the wiring diagram with color coded wires.
@@hoc31rescue No I wasn't able to get it to work so I finally gave up and threw it away in frustration. Maybe one day I will try again.
@@valhu5714 So sorry I failed to respond to you in a timely fashion. If you decide to try again, please contact me via email at hoc.288lives@yahoo.com I have corresponded with numerous people who have successfully built the remote trap system. I would gladly help step you through the process with photos and /or sketches.
sorry, also one white wire is short and just cut, and one red wire is longer and has gizmos in the middle of it, then ends with a blunt end.
Barbara, I received your email and have responded. I included a detailed wiring diagram in the email that I hope will help.
You can see a video from another viewer who has built five of these traps and has trapped 100's of cats using the remote trap. Here is the link.... czcams.com/video/o-q0NW1xjPU/video.html&lc=z23ojvmr0sbis10r504t1aokgvt4rheqqtv3afwksougbk0h00410.1533193658198905
you are a *&^%$ GENIUS
: ) Thank you.
Too much noise
I am guessing from your 3-word terse comment that you have zero experience with working feral colonies. Yet, you took the time to watch a video that has been viewed over 23,000 times with 93 (positive) comments (not including yours. Educate yourself, or better yet volunteer to help a rescue organization that works with feral colonies. You may learn something. At the very least, you may be humbled just a little. Otherwise, scroll past and troll elsewhere.