I have had really good luck with liquid wrench on light rust removal. Pb blaster is great for the tight spots and threads on bolts too. Great video and thanks for your posting it.
@@bossadamsgarage Impact gun, Son. You can spray all of the crap you want on there but you best be willing to wait a good long time for it to penetrate enough to matter any if you're gonna muscle it out. Any decent impact gun will zip it right out of there. When you're torquing things down that require more than 1 fastener I'd recommend that you sneak up on the specific torque in increments evenly rather than hammering the fasteners down to torque spec. A lot less chance of pinching a gasket or bending something. With your cover for instance, set your torque wrench for 20 ft.lb or so and torque them all, then 25, and then finish at 30. If you're doing a set of heads you may want to start at 30 or 40 and go up 20 ft/lb each pass.
I have to do this to my '96 Chevy Silverado and you just made it look very easy. It just started leaking like 3 weeks ago I've noticed. I usually check my fluids once a month and when I check my fluids I also check underneath where the transmission is for any possible leaks hopefully there's none and I also check the rear differential for leaks and this is how I noticed it was dripping slowly. Great video and the gaskets are very cheap. What type of gasket did you use it looks like a fel-Pro? I was thinking of going with a fel-Pro gasket because a lot of people have good things to say about them.
Yes it was a fel-pro. I prefer fel-pro and good name brands when it comes to the gaskets. There is plenty of cheaper options out there on amazon but I felt that it was necessary to go the name brand route. I got the gasket link in the description if you wanna pick it up.
I changed mine after 29 years, it's a 1993. Someone put a external plug on the filler. I use 80-90 Lucas for the oil for the rear and I'll possibly change the front out again in a few months.
Thank you for putting this video together. It really helped me out. However, I have a question....what do I do if the magnet comes unglued?? Do I just re-"glue" it with silicone?
Exactly! just don't cheap out on the materials you use. I know it might seem cost effective at times to go use the cheaper brand but in my experience, cheaper is not better. Us a good quality adhesive.
Yes in my opinion. From what I've read and heard from some mechanics, 75w-90 is actually considered a better oil over the standard 80w-90 recommended for the truck.
Good video I'm learning, I have a 94 Silverado I see you used 75 90 ,I also see people in more videos used 80 90 oil which one is better for my 94 Silverado ?
You can use either one. I chose to use 75-90 bc all the forums and mechanics I talked to said it would be an upgrade over the standard 80-90 that the truck says is required.
@@bossadamsgarage same goes for the replacement brakehoses etc, if you spring a few bucks more for the gm replacements it comes with the needed brackets etc saves alot of grief trying to restore rusted brackets
I got a 1992 Chevy 4.3 liter v6 Manual transmission and I stripped the bolt on the rear replacing the gasket and oil but I put the plate back on after new gasket and I cannot take off the plug? What should I do? And I don't know how much fluid is supposed to go in there? Also if I change the fluid in the rear differential, should I change the front fluid as well???
Heat or some pb blaster might help get that bolt to unseize. Just make sure when you're trying to loosen it you take your time and work it slowly. Changing both at the same time is probably not a bad idea. I only did the rear in this video because I had already done my front not long before the video.
Nice video. Only thing I was thinking, wasn't the rear differential cap still rusted when you spray painted it? I know you got a lot of rust off, but from my understanding the remaining rust will cause the paint to bubble.
Ya their was still a good bit of rust. I was just having to do it in a short period of time because I needed the truck the next morning. The next time I change the fluid I’m going to make sure I have more time so I can really get it down to that bare metal.
I would trust mine too. Some of the trucks from this era are worn out and would have a hard time. The best thing about these trucks is if anything went wrong, its extremely affordable to fix them.
1800 lbs lol thats sissy stuff i had over 2 tons in the bed of a 1994 single cab long bed all weights off a pulling unit talk about heavy i blew a tire on the trip 40 miles it was sitting on frame took 3 jacks to change the tire.
75w-90, that’s what I run in mine bc it’s technically an upgrade from the 80w-90 that was in it originally. Supposedly tends to last longer too but I’m in the process of testing that theory now.
haha well depending on how well kept the truck was, it could either be a laundry list or simple tweaks. I would first start with the basic maintenance (air filter, oil, fluid levels). Then I'd step it up and change the plugs, wires, rotor button, and cap. Once you knock those out I would recommend the fuel filter. After all that, then you can kinda listen out for what could be probable issues. But doing that stuff should get that truck running right. To top things off, Id also run mid or premium gas. If the motor hasn't been apart in years, its a good idea to run higher octane gas to help get some of those carbon deposits out.
Ok gotcha....... have you by chance had problems with gas leaking from the vents on the bottom of the tank ? I'm trying to figure out how to detect the leak before I go dropping the tank.
I only deviated slightly because I talked to several of my mechanic friends and found enough support for their claims that 75w-90 was actually a little better than 80w-90. The choice is completely up to you of course. I just chose to give it a shot and I've been pleased thus far.
You gotta get all that rust off, buddy. I took mine to a shop. Had em sandblast those bitches and put a flat black powder coat on them. It's safe to say that the rust wont be coming back. I recommend doing that if you are an overachiever. lol
If you have the time, just place it in vinegar for 24hrs. Baking soda afterwards briefly to neutralize the vinegar. Sand and paint. After it's reinstalled, apply fluid film and forget about it until next time.
Well your correct in saying it’s a Chevy pickup…but the body style is split to year 99….I own a 99 Chevy k1500 pickup…so you could have a pickup or a Silverado all in the same year….yea I was confused at first as well…
This is patently false. Silverado is a TRIM PACKAGE. I have a 1996 C1500 Silverado. It has a bunch of options that the base model does not. You're absolutely incorrect.
I wish I could post a picture to show mister know-it-all here a picture of my truck which is a 92 Chevy 1500 Silverado and I know it is a Silverado because it clearly has a badge by the door that says Silverado. It was a trim package in 1992 so therefore some people might call their pick up a Silverado regardless of what may have happened in the years following
Are you kidding that was a great job you just did..... now i know how to do my 88 Silverado....Man thanx.
I appreciate it! Glad I could help!
so satisfying watching you clean the rear diff cover with the wire wheel
Good video man who needs a dad when you got youtube!
🙏🙏🙏 didn’t have to put it like that lmao but yeah fuck that guy
2 Thumbs up for checking the fill plug FIRST !!!
I have had really good luck with liquid wrench on light rust removal. Pb blaster is great for the tight spots and threads on bolts too. Great video and thanks for your posting it.
I appreciate the tip and thanks for stopping by!
@@bossadamsgarage Impact gun, Son. You can spray all of the crap you want on there but you best be willing to wait a good long time for it to penetrate enough to matter any if you're gonna muscle it out. Any decent impact gun will zip it right out of there.
When you're torquing things down that require more than 1 fastener I'd recommend that you sneak up on the specific torque in increments evenly rather than hammering the fasteners down to torque spec. A lot less chance of pinching a gasket or bending something. With your cover for instance, set your torque wrench for 20 ft.lb or so and torque them all, then 25, and then finish at 30. If you're doing a set of heads you may want to start at 30 or 40 and go up 20 ft/lb each pass.
If you really want to make your rear end look good you can just buy a new cover. There are many types of cover available.
23 years, and how many miles?
Mine has 285k currently. Bought it with 140k
Shes a work in degress!!! 😆
Thanks to you I'm gonna learn a few things!
Glad I could help!
I Clean area BEFORE pulling Plug out !!!!!!!!!
@catdakman1273 I took your advice 🤙thx U
Now why didn't I think of that!
If you have a posi tracksion rearend be sure to use the posi tracksion additive.
i do not think you need it if you use synthetic oil
from my understanding with these trucks you dont need additive even if you have the g80 lsd.
try using a floor jack on the bumper or trailer hitch lift up the body out of your way.
I have to do this to my '96 Chevy Silverado and you just made it look very easy. It just started leaking like 3 weeks ago I've noticed. I usually check my fluids once a month and when I check my fluids I also check underneath where the transmission is for any possible leaks hopefully there's none and I also check the rear differential for leaks and this is how I noticed it was dripping slowly. Great video and the gaskets are very cheap. What type of gasket did you use it looks like a fel-Pro? I was thinking of going with a fel-Pro gasket because a lot of people have good things to say about them.
Yes it was a fel-pro. I prefer fel-pro and good name brands when it comes to the gaskets. There is plenty of cheaper options out there on amazon but I felt that it was necessary to go the name brand route. I got the gasket link in the description if you wanna pick it up.
I changed mine after 29 years, it's a 1993. Someone put a external plug on the filler. I use 80-90 Lucas for the oil for the rear and I'll possibly change the front out again in a few months.
I put gasket sealer on the cover and the rear-end side and didn't have problems with leaks
Thank you for putting this video together. It really helped me out. However, I have a question....what do I do if the magnet comes unglued?? Do I just re-"glue" it with silicone?
Exactly! just don't cheap out on the materials you use. I know it might seem cost effective at times to go use the cheaper brand but in my experience, cheaper is not better. Us a good quality adhesive.
Very useful. Thanks!
Glad to hear that!
About to change mines soon. So u do recommend going 75w-90
Yes in my opinion. From what I've read and heard from some mechanics, 75w-90 is actually considered a better oil over the standard 80w-90 recommended for the truck.
Thanks for video
Wish I had the fill plug part number. I need a new one because the idiot before stripped the plugs socket head.
Take a look on Summit Racing's website or my personal favorite, Rockauto. You should be able to find one there.
Good video I'm learning, I have a 94 Silverado I see you used 75 90 ,I also see people in more videos used 80 90 oil which one is better for my 94 Silverado ?
You can use either one. I chose to use 75-90 bc all the forums and mechanics I talked to said it would be an upgrade over the standard 80-90 that the truck says is required.
I used 75w 145. Perfect for worn-out bearings last another 300k
Any fluid better than nothing
Tengo una Chevrolet cheyenne 1997 automática tiene un traqueteo en la trasmisión
If you buy a GM replacement cover it comes with a gasket, bolts and brackets and not terribly expensive
Good to know!
@@bossadamsgarage same goes for the replacement brakehoses etc, if you spring a few bucks more for the gm replacements it comes with the needed brackets etc saves alot of grief trying to restore rusted brackets
I've never changed the gear oil
bought it in 2006 🤦🏼♂️
Cheyenne
Do you have a locker on yours? I don’t see the g80 on my glove box only GT4… I was really hoping I had a locker lol
Sadly I do not.
Nice video!
I appreciate it!
I got a 1992 Chevy 4.3 liter v6 Manual transmission and I stripped the bolt on the rear replacing the gasket and oil but I put the plate back on after new gasket and I cannot take off the plug? What should I do? And I don't know how much fluid is supposed to go in there? Also if I change the fluid in the rear differential, should I change the front fluid as well???
Heat or some pb blaster might help get that bolt to unseize. Just make sure when you're trying to loosen it you take your time and work it slowly. Changing both at the same time is probably not a bad idea. I only did the rear in this video because I had already done my front not long before the video.
Nice video. Only thing I was thinking, wasn't the rear differential cap still rusted when you spray painted it? I know you got a lot of rust off, but from my understanding the remaining rust will cause the paint to bubble.
Ya their was still a good bit of rust. I was just having to do it in a short period of time because I needed the truck the next morning. The next time I change the fluid I’m going to make sure I have more time so I can really get it down to that bare metal.
he did the best he could with tools that he had available. the outside is just for looks, inside business end was clean.
Are those trucks reliable for hauling 1800 pounds parts in your opinion?
I would trust mine too. Some of the trucks from this era are worn out and would have a hard time. The best thing about these trucks is if anything went wrong, its extremely affordable to fix them.
@@bossadamsgarage thank you 🙏🏿
1800 lbs lol thats sissy stuff i had over 2 tons in the bed of a 1994 single cab long bed all weights off a pulling unit talk about heavy i blew a tire on the trip 40 miles it was sitting on frame took 3 jacks to change the tire.
Yeyyeyeyeyeyeyeye
Is gasket sealer really necessary?
I would say yes, but technically no. It's really just precautionary.
I used only Rtv hand tight & let dry two days, then tighten bolts
I have a 98 what type of gear oil do you suggest?
75w-90, that’s what I run in mine bc it’s technically an upgrade from the 80w-90 that was in it originally. Supposedly tends to last longer too but I’m in the process of testing that theory now.
@@bossadamsgarage what were the results of your test
So far no complaints. It has been a little over a year now, it has no weird sounds and it still seems very smooth.
hey Boss what else do you recommend to change out in these old trucks I've just bought one the same & i need it to run like new 😅
haha well depending on how well kept the truck was, it could either be a laundry list or simple tweaks. I would first start with the basic maintenance (air filter, oil, fluid levels). Then I'd step it up and change the plugs, wires, rotor button, and cap. Once you knock those out I would recommend the fuel filter. After all that, then you can kinda listen out for what could be probable issues. But doing that stuff should get that truck running right.
To top things off, Id also run mid or premium gas. If the motor hasn't been apart in years, its a good idea to run higher octane gas to help get some of those carbon deposits out.
How many liters did it take and what wrench did I use to remove the filler cap?
2 1/2 & 1/2 wrench
I'm changing mine tomorrow on the same truck..... do you mix anything in with the differential oil-lube ?
My axle is leaking differential fluid , I think I'm gonna try to put stop leak in it.
You could try that. I did not mix anything with mine. Just make sure when you replace that gasket you clean all residual old gasket off first.
Ok gotcha....... have you by chance had problems with gas leaking from the vents on the bottom of the tank ?
I'm trying to figure out how to detect the leak before I go dropping the tank.
it says in the manual to use SAE 8OW-90, how far can you deviate from that?
I only deviated slightly because I talked to several of my mechanic friends and found enough support for their claims that 75w-90 was actually a little better than 80w-90. The choice is completely up to you of course. I just chose to give it a shot and I've been pleased thus far.
I wouldn't use synthetic oil mine calls for 80 90 weight and its alot cheaper I learned the hard way and it cost me about a hundred dollars
@@robertaustin1945 why not synthetic?
@Boss Adams Garage what's their reason on the 75-90?
You gotta get all that rust off, buddy. I took mine to a shop. Had em sandblast those bitches and put a flat black powder coat on them. It's safe to say that the rust wont be coming back. I recommend doing that if you are an overachiever. lol
Ya I probably should, but it’ll do for now. Right now though the paint is holding up. We’ll see how long it lasts lol
If you have the time, just place it in vinegar for 24hrs. Baking soda afterwards briefly to neutralize the vinegar. Sand and paint. After it's reinstalled, apply fluid film and forget about it until next time.
Sadly that's over budget.
Paid thousand dollars for my truck
Bro do more videos on the 2020 corolla 🤪
We eventually will, we’re waiting getting a couple ideas now. More mods to come!
Update on the truck? How did it ride after
Much smoother than before! I could actually feel the difference.
Interesting
@@bossadamsgarage what was smoother about it? Accelerating or shifting ? Or just all around a smoother ride
All around smoother ride, especially from a complete stop to a hard acceleration.
💯
Do you have to use an additive if it’s a posi rear end?
What you saw in the video is all I did to that rear end.
if it is not synthetic oil i believe you need the additive in a posi.
or just fill it til it runs out the hole boom full
plus i believe chevy calls for 80w90 gl5
1 why didn't chevy put a fucking drain plug on the differential 2 cover your screw driver with a soft rag before prying on surfaces
why not just buy a new cover?
That is an option, however, if you have the tools at home it's pretty easy just to throw a new coat of paint on it.
@@bossadamsgarage well i have a show truck and I'm gonna go with a chrome one. thanks for the video, it helps alot
My rear diff bolt snapped :(
Good thing replacements are inexpensive. I would replace all of them if I were you.
I wish your friends would have respected the fact that you were making a video. Its very distracting hearing that
True but at the time I didn’t have another garage to use. Now, I have my own garage to work in!
@@bossadamsgarage Thank you for the video never the less. Congrats on your garage!
Just buy a new cover..
You do not own a silverado. Thats a "chevy pickup". Silverado is 99 and newer.
Well your correct in saying it’s a Chevy pickup…but the body style is split to year 99….I own a 99 Chevy k1500 pickup…so you could have a pickup or a Silverado all in the same year….yea I was confused at first as well…
This is patently false. Silverado is a TRIM PACKAGE. I have a 1996 C1500 Silverado. It has a bunch of options that the base model does not. You're absolutely incorrect.
I wish I could post a picture to show mister know-it-all here a picture of my truck which is a 92 Chevy 1500 Silverado and I know it is a Silverado because it clearly has a badge by the door that says Silverado. It was a trim package in 1992 so therefore some people might call their pick up a Silverado regardless of what may have happened in the years following
You’re wrong. Silverado is a trim level
😂