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Rear Differential (rear end) Fluid Change DIY for a 1998 Chevy Silverado Pickup
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- čas přidán 10. 05. 2011
- In this video, I change the rear end (rear differential) in a 1998 Chevrolet Silverado pickup truck. This truck happens to be 2wd, but it would be the same for a 4 wheel drive or any rear wheel drive car made by General Motors. The procedure is easy, just remove the cover, clean the surfaces, replace, and refill. Not rocket science but will for sure make this part of the car or truck you'll never have to worry about.
Bolts should be torqued to 30 ft-lbs. Use 3 quarts of 80w-90 gear oil as recommend by your owners manual. No gasket sealant used as per service manual. Feel free to ask any questions. Thanks!
To support this and other content on my channel without a subscription, feel free to buy me a coffee at: www.buymeacoffee.com/turbo231
Short and to the point and generic enough to apply to many different applications: exactly my type of learning video. Thanks for this!
Good idea to pull the plug first. If it doesn't come off you have to get a cover that his a fill port integrated. Would stink to get the cover painted and back on only to find out you have to do the job again. Thanks for the informative video.
Silicone RTV glue the gasket to the cover and then apply more to the other side of the gasket. Or it will leak later. Good video.
I have the same 8.5 diff in my Tahoe, the axle seals were leaking, it was only half full of oil. There was a bunch of burnt oil deposits in the carrier. I added 8-oz Marvels oil and 2-qts of cheap gear oil, ran the truck 1500 miles and drained it. Pulled the axles, replaced seals and all the black crud was gone. Refilled it with high quality synthetic gear oil for extended service... Great Demonstration of a neglected service
How much did it take to fill
Nicely done tutorial. My 85 GMC Siera is due up for a change, and this makes it look much less intimidating.
I followed your procedure and no leaks so far without using gasket sealer. I did torque to 30 ft lbs. but in stages by first torquing to 25 ft. lbs. then 30 ft. lbs. in a star pattern. Before it had been leaking badly and I discovered one of the bolts was just finger tight. Strange as it looked like it had the factory gasket since new. I was also pleased to see hardly any metal particles on the magnet and like new gears after 206K miles. Thanks for posting.
Very glad its not leaking. Mine hasn't changed since I've done the video and its all still good.
The small diff (1500) takes 2.2 qts and the heavy ones are 3-4 qts or more depending on the weight rating. I recommend a synthetic oil because it lasts longer and you don't have to mess with it as often.
What type of oil should i use for chevy 98 k1500 .?? 275000 milles
80W90??
Thanks for posting you are saving people money,,not all heroes wear capes,,,you my friend are indeed a hero !
Great video. Easy process, but well done. Good video quality, clean audio, well spoken, and just enough footage to get the point without a lot of extra to sit through.
I just did my diff in my 92 k5 blazer with royal purple max gear and what a difference, has the lsd additive in it, my locking diff works, got rid of a small clunk, and it requires a LOT less throttle to keep it moving making my mpg soar 3 miles per gallon, WHAT A LUBE!!!
regular gear oil with lucas oil additive works wonders to
You should always crack the fill plug open first, if take the cover off and drain your oil, and can't remove the fill plug, your screwed.
not really, just means it will take longer. Most painless way is to install a new fill hole on the pan by drilling a hole and welding on a bung ( with pan removed, obviously ). Or, if you have a 3/4 or 1 ton with full floating axles, you can just slide out the axle shaft and pour the oil in through the axle tube. Just not changing the oil because you can't get the filler plug off is a bad idea especially if it is limited slip, 20 year old oil wont do the clutch packs any good. I hope to God you're not a mechanic, I can totally see you not changing the oil and saying you did just to get ahead on the flat rate. This is why I do all the work my self, so it gets done right.
Your what is screwed?
I had no issue without cracking the filler nut, did need a dead blow hammer and screwdriver to get through the goop
I just did this job, but my fill plug was screwed up, so that it wouldn't accept the 3/8 driver. I wound up drilling a hole in it, then inserting a straight flute screw extractor. The plug was so tight, that even after soaks in PB Blaster, and crazy hot MAPP gas applications, then actually using a jack under a cresent wrench on the extractor! I had to repeat this process 3 times, then finally got the plug to crack free. Unbelievable!
That’s why you always pull the fill plug first! So if it won’t pull you can go to the store and get parts before you disable your vehicle.
Yeah thanks for having this video! They're some of us who find this Very Helpful
Thanks turbo I will be doing this to my 03 Silverado this weekend. Great instructions
Nice job you did on that rear differential cover on your pickup & spray painted it.. yours is still in pretty good shape! Mine is all rusty (alot of rust buildup) & has a pin size hole I can see dripping out of my 93 Chevy suburban k2500. Getting a new one on eBay..
This video was really helpful cuz I've been having problems with my rear differential case
Remember PPE people, thanks for the vid.
Really good video. No fluff. Just straight to it.
Thanks.
Thanks. I always wondered how you fill them. Have an 89 chevy 1500. I think this is my next project before winter.
I have always taken the fill plug off first. incase its seized and wont back out after you empty it then your fudged.. always liked Toyota for having drain and fill holes in the rear end.
Ohh thats that that small dent on the diffcover is for, for the magnent. i never taken my diff cover off but i painted it and filled in the dent thinking the previous owner back into a rock or something, lol nice video! i love how you painted it. i love painting rusty things on my 94
Thank you much for your help, glad I did mine today, it was down a pint.
@infringinator I did not jack it up. The picture on the end is a rear shot of the truck with the silver cover. By THAT point, I was working on brakes....notice the lack of tires too. I prefer to do brake work with the rear end in the air.
Very cool video and very informative. I have a 1989 GMC Suburban and this video helped out!
Im about to do this same job on a 2006 1500...Im not as scared after watching this.
Nice touch with the paint. I'm sure there's some high heat stuff you could use as well. Thank you.
@kizzle1234656 Only on limited slip rear ends. This rear end is open. I think it was 3 quarts? If I don't mention it in the video, I have forgotten, check your owners manual.
@Turbo231 I had the muffler replaced but will soon need to replace the pipes from the muffler to the tips..I'll look forward to your video sir!
I love how you said you add the fluid right here but added no context as to Where the spot is actually located 😂
Should be pretty clear in the video, upper right side of the differential.
I'am Your Newest Subscriber Great Videos . The Gear Oil In My 1988 G20 Chevy Van Hasen't Been Changed In @0 Years
Yikes, good deal.
Thank you for this awesome video brother !!! 😎
@Turbo231 thats true..I'll let you know if I do my own rear diff. I think I'll at least have them do the front diff and transfer case...my problem is having neighbors not wanting me to do work on my vehicle in the parking lot lol
Thanks for the Great video. I'm planning on doing this on my Sierra.
“Deez nuts..... smelly stinky stuff” 😂😁
The trick is to not over torque it and use a little sealant on the gasket
I don't know if I would use simple green as a cleaner, but I do use brake cleaner on the rear end sense it doesn't leave a residue
Thank you this video helped me out along the way
@imghaniff Yeah...it will be in the owners manual or any basic repair manual.
Yes. What you want is a Torque wrench.
No, I had a 1998 W/T and it had a locking differential (G80). Limited slip differentials were never put on those year trucks, only cars.
Thank you!
when i saw the thumbnail i thought it was aftermarket. so i'm impressed with the result next time u might want to use paint for high heat.
@koonbunny1011 Yup...autozone, I personally use Napa parts, they tend to have an exhaustive catalog of stuff.
@sonofpikaia Seems high. Most rear ends don't see service for at least 100,000 miles, so I'm surprised anything strange happened. However if the level got low, you could see damage. If your rear gear is worn, you'll need to rebuild or replace it.
i just use rtv gasket cause iv had to change 4 rear gaskets never had a leak with rtv gasket
I Use STP oil treatment in the rear end. Have to heat it up to get it in
That sounds crazy. Just got some Lucas oil, says you can use it straight as rear end oil.
@@Turbo231 he hee its good to> its a old hot rod trick. to cut down friction and wear . Make the rear end runs cooler and faster. i have use it for rear end oil every since> Drain it and put STP oil treatment in all of my vehicles rear ends i've been running it for decades> even got it in my 2000 silverado pickup day it was new
gasket leaks on mine. gonna try again with rtv
MrFuchew sounds like a plan, you can use both.
This thing needs a Flowmaster :D
Nicely done, thanks.
Always remove the fill plug first before u remove the cover:P sometimes they dont come out and u cant refill the diff and u end up buying a new cover with a plug in it
how many things of oil you need for this I need to know as I going to do mine on a 88 c2500
Posi rear ends don't have clutches and don't require and additive. GM uses a G80 mechanical locker in their diffs. A limited slip diff would require an additive if the fluid doesn't meet the rating.
@Turbo231 old school tricks from the 40's before fill plugs lol
Any idea what GM was thinking when they put the radiator cap on at an angle and put metal in the way so you can only add about 3 ounces of coolant at a time? Thank you for the video. Wasn't sure where to add the fluid, found that bolt you mentioned though
@miguelconde8 Same procedure for every GM RWD car...and the oil should be listed in your owners manual...probably a 80-90W. If you have a limited slip rear, you will need an additive for that.
Newer ones perhaps, older ones, including S-10s, they have a limited slip. I believe the service for a locking rear is the same, however there may be a TSB about using additive, so you'll have to consult a dealer on newer trucks.
Nice job.
This video was super duper
Curious if you've had any drips at all just using gasket with no rtv? I'd like to think that gasket alone is good enough...
It’s been fine.
@Turbo231 yeah my silverado is 4x4...you did so well with the fluid change I did it myself but I dont have any jacks or lifts so I may just have to go to the mechanic and spend a few hundred...do you have any videos on exhaust work? My pipes are getting rusty and I'll need to replace them but I saw there are methods where you dont have to do any welding.
Something came in the mail today, 1:01.
Deeze Nutz?
Nice paint... I love Mexi-Chrome
THX man for the video! No I'm not sure if I got it, but what's the size of the drain plug squared socket? Because I need to buy the right tip...
9:10 don't forget to cut the nozzle off the tip ;^))
I would have SCREWED that up for sure!
Thanks , very helpful.
Note--the Third Member Housing generally is the Nastiest Place on the Truck--Need to Clean Housing before Opening Up as some of this Crud could Fall into Gear Area....
@Turbo231 thanks! What kind of addative? Im not the brightest, but I do plan on keeping my truck up and running. it has 250.000 miles so I really want to get down and fix minor problems that will eventually lead to it breaking down. thanks again!
@MrConversionVans I've had mixed blessings with POR-15...better then paint no doubt.
Great video man thanks for posting
so you fill it till it runs out the hole? thanks
Thank you. I think I need to do mine.
It’s pretty easy.
i have a 01 silverado 4.3 2wd with 10 bolt. pulled the cover and it looks exactly like yours. my truck has the g80 code, but its not the eaton ls diff. what type of diff is it and what does GM call it? positraction, posi lock, limited slip... it will leave 2 equal marks in the dirt when it hooks up.
Can i use 75w-90 Synthetic? I have a 97 C1500. Gm calls for 80w-90 regular. I'd rather use the Synthetic but can't find 80w in Synthetic.
Old trucks get conventional oils 80w90 for open diffs...fluid has no lsd additives added that's what you want
@@crackerjack8115 thanks 👌
@@oBlackCoffee no problem. Good luck with the work
@miguelconde8 It is a special lubricant...helps the clutches in the rear...but its only required if you have a limited slip rear end (RPO G80). I get mine from a GM dealer, it's cheap, but I do believe there are rear end oils that have it already in, you'd have to do some digging for that.
So what do I do if I have drained the differential and I can't get the full plug out?
I’d work on getting the plug out. Otherwise you are stuck replacing the cover with a fill hole.
Did you jack up the truck for this? You said in the beginning you didnt, but the picture at the end shows it on jacks.
@turbo321 Nah my friend brought some PB Blaster over last night. The square was fine I just couldn't get if to turn. I did use a jack to help with the hard part after the PB Blaster.
@FearlessTrainerCole You don't have to but they are cheap and make it easy.
Thanks for the video man very informative
How many miles do you have to change it and how many miles ddoes ur truck have it's nice
@infringinator Yes, I had to drop the spare on mine as well. Of course, it makes for a good time to service the spare...make sure it has enough air pressure and wash it.
where could i find the gasket @. my rear differantal has like a rubber type gastet but i can see at one piont it was a liquid that dried to feel like a rubber so i was wondering where i could find a actual rubber one. would my local autozone have it? i have a 1999 grand marqius
thank you! about to change it on my 97
“The fill point is right back here” …dude, you’ve done well up to this point. How about 10 more seconds of reference to where that plug is.
It’s pretty clear looking at the thing. Passenger side, you can see it from the wheel well.
@@Turbo231 …I see it now! Thank you for taking a moment to get back to me…much appreciated!
Thanks for the video. Approx how much oil is used to refill the diff?
I'm leaking fluid from the differential so I'm assuming
the seal is the problem.
It's never good when you have a leak from your rear end
I will use black Dip-it spray when I do this service. Yay black Dip-it sthpray!!
I've found that Krylon chrome paint doesn't last at all, but I think it's metal flakes in the paint rusting. I've had good results coating it with clear coat once it dries tho.
krylon paint is garbage......I painted my s10s rear window and it was cracking and falling off in a matter of months
would it be wise to clean the gears with brake cleaner or any type of evapotative cleaner?
So i have to change out the rear diff. gasket and the axle seals on my 2010 GMC Sierra, is it pretty much the same way and how long does it usually take?
@Turbo231 I was looking under mine today but I have a big spare tire in the way...not sure if I should do it myself or pay the mechanic $85 to change the front/rear and transfer case
@Evilkris83 if you can't, a trick i learned from my granddad is to fill a large sandwhich bag with the proper amount of oil, hook a wire to it, and place it inside, and bolt the bottom half of the diff cover on, then lift the bag out the top slowly, and the oil will fill the diff, and you can finish bolting the top up.
Do you not have to coat the new gasket in diff oil to help prevent leaks?
No, the gasket will do the sealing.
I have a leak in my front differential on the right hand side...dealer wants close to $500 to replace the seal...Is it easy to do myself? They're saying 5 hours of labor!
@Turbo231 Yup. They will chatter w/o the additive. it. My LT1 Impala sure did until I added a little more! One day maybe It will have a detroit true track instead of the weak auburn. I want a true track for my truck too. The gov lockers explode with heavy use.
Is there a tool I can use that can helpme measure the amount of torque I apply to each bolt? I would like to buy one when I do this fix myself.
@infringinator You certainly shouldn't have to do any welding for exhaust work. I will be changing a muffler on my Caprice this spring, should show the basics to exhaust part replacements.
@Turbo231 Nope Not on a GM. My own vehicles were good. Ive seen plow trucks and such that had pretty crispy rear ends. Its just a tip I wanted to share because they could seize up. The plugs in the cover or in the housing on some vehicles seem to have a worse rusting problem than in the actual axle housing. Also All Chevy trucks had Gov lockers never a posi. They don't need additive. I just run a regular oil in mine w/ a gov locker (Synthetic is required on the newer trucks 99 current ) :)
Yeah...its got some excessive wear, the unit may need a rebuild sooner then later. I would fill it back up with oil and hope for the best.
That was very helpful thanks!!!!