How to build the Ultimate Radial Arm Saw Table
Vložit
- čas přidán 13. 05. 2023
- In this video I walk through the steps to create the Ultimate Radial Arm Saw table.
For a tour of the Ultimate Radial Arm Saw Table, click here:
• Tour this Ultimate Rad...
For the Angle Jig build video, click here:
• Building Radial Arm Sa... - Jak na to + styl
Always good to find supportive videos of the Radial Arm Saw Machine. I have restored & resold several different models of the earlier, genuine Dewalt saws, the fit and finish were always excellent. Since I do a lot of ripping work on mine, I do have the trough that one needs to cut from the rear fence coming forward, but not everyone needs to do that, especially if they have a tablesaw which for the tyro, is a complimentary piece of equipment.
Hope to see you do more vids with this machine and thanks for sharing your ideas.
Appreciate your comments. I plan on using this in a lot of videos. More to come.
This is awesome. Thanks so much. We just picked up this exact saw from someone giving it away to a new home. Just needs some TLC and a new top.
Good luck!
I have the same model Craftsman saw which I bought new around 1990. I recently replaced the top and now I wish I had waited since I like the way you did yours. I haven't done anything but straight cuts since I replaced it so I can still add the T-tracks and make the angle templates. I have an even older Craftsman table saw that I can use to cut the templates. Thanks for the great design and video.
Glad you like it! Good luck with the angle templates.
Thank you for sharing! RAS is the best!
Pretty cool! Ive been itching to dig out Dad's from storage. He bought it new in '72 used it twice, then disassembled it and put it away. The table went outside and of course the wood didnt survive long.
Thanks for sharin this.
Start digging, you won’t regret it! 😊
Perfect…exactly what I need for my Dewalt restoration
Great! Good luck with the restoration.
Looks great!
Thanks!
Absolutely superb
Very nice.Thanks for sharing!
Thank you! Cheers!
Mine is a 1976 vintage Sears RAS and every few years I need to replace the table. I rarely miter with it these days but it still gets a lot of ripping. I always promise myself "this time I'll take better care not to cut the table up." Sadly that promise seems never to be kept! :(
But, this time will be different! :)
The removable/replaceable section has been key for me. It still gets cut up but then I only need to replace that piece and not the whole table. Good luck and happy woodworking!
Good addition to top would be a mitre slot routed in top, there for you can use mitre gauge in conjunction with top
Great idea! Thanks for the suggestion.
thank you Bud, really great tracks and stop block
I wonder about a high density poly ethylene top
That seems moisture proof and warp proof
Thanks again
Definitely an option. :-)
Hi Bud, we’ve never met before. Just enjoyed this video . Reason I’m writing is that I see you have the same digital readout on the radial arm saw as I do on my approximately 1996 saw. I just took mine out of 30 so years of no use. When I did use it I enjoyed the digital portion. Just would use up the “J” Battery quick. I’m going to power it from a small wall dc transformer in the coming weeks. Did you ever do a video on your use and experience with the digital portion of the saw. Glad I saw your table build. I also have some walnut and mdf.
I have never used the digital features. I have not seen the need since I cut all my angles with the use of the angle jigs I created. I am locked in at 90 degrees most of the time.
I can see the digital portion as a benefit if you are changing angles frequently. It’s a shame they didn’t design it with a more common battery size. Good luck with your transformer!
Bud, wow thanks the tip on your glue up is fantastic.
Quick Question, how did you ensure the fence is square to the blade?
It was actually pretty simple. I loosened the swivel lock on the side, squared the blade to the fence and reengaged the swivel lock.
I have an older craftsman radial arm saw just like this. I just went through the process of building one just like yours minus the angle jigs, which i will be adding, so thank you for the idea!👍 Im having an issue with my blade always trying to climb a little, which is making it difficult to get perfect square crosscuts on finer pieces, where I need perfect 90s. Im curious as to the blade your using on this saw. I've got some blade stabilizers & was looking at the freud sliding miter blade in hopes that the change in the teeth layout angles would solve my issue. Any feedback or ideas or the blade your using would be greatly appreciated! Thanks again in advance! -M.T.
You want to look for a blade with a small to no hook. Large degree hooks will climb. I used a 60 tooth CMT blade with a 10 degree hook. Virtually no climb.
Beautiful and clever top. Do you think there is any need to add the Mr. Sawdust style stiffeners between the layers of 3/4" MDF to maintain flatness over time temperature and humidity??
Based on the support structure underneath I think stiffeners are overkill. I have double and triple MDF on my workbench and miter station fine many years and they are still dead flat.
Considering adding t-track to my fence as well. Now that you’ve had it in place for a bit, how is the track holding up from being cut at multiple angles? I use my RAS for cutting table leg angles and half laps therefore, many different angles are cut through my fence and table top.
I use the angle jigs that I mentioned in my video so there’s no need for me to pivot the saw to different angles. The result is my fence is still in the same shape it was the day I installed it. You might want to consider making angle jigs if you’re going to put the T track up top on the fence.
I'm finally setting up the radial arm saw I inherited from my Grandpa in my garage and I think I'm going to try to copy what you've done here. Any information on where to find the track you used? I'm very new to all this so I really appreciate seeing some ideas of how to get set up. Thank you for sharing!
There are tons of options on Amazon for the T-tracks (color and length). Good luck and hit me up if you have questions along the way.
@@budsworkshop Thanks!
i like the table. Is there any way to extend the stop block past the end of the table?
I am planning on building an extension wing which will include a fence extension w/ T track. That will allow for using the stop block on longer cuts.
Do you mind sharing your ratios of shellac and denatured alcohol?
Honestly I don’t have an exact ratio. I use a mason jar and fill it halfway with the flakes (don’t pack them down, just a loose fill) and then fill the jar 3/4 with the denatured alcohol. Shake it up every hour or so until the flakes dissolve. If a couple hours go by no biggie just shake a little more. Once dissolved, try on a piece of wood. If you can touch it and get no tack after a minute or two, you are good. If still tacky, just add some more alcohol to thin it.
Nice work,Do you sell them
No, sorry
I hope when I build the table for the saw I just purchased with I believe the original table in very bad condition. I hope my new table is close to as good as the table you show here. I do have a question I hope you can help me with. The saw I just bought is the second saw I have owned after selling the first one before moving. Other than the electronic display it is the same as your saw, which is newer than my old one. The slide lock is a little tight and cannot be set to either free or tighten the slide. Do you know if it can be adjusted to allow the slide to be free or locked in place?
Thanks! I am not sure on the adjustment. I had the same issue with mine but after spraying it with some lithium grease and working it a bit, it works like a charm.
I have an open air shop😢. I live in hot & humid Florida. My current top has crumbled away. What material can i substitute for the MDF? Ty
Two options I can think of. First is a product called Armorite. It is and exterior grade mdf. Go to Roseburg.com to find a distributor near you. The other option is to use an exterior grade plywood. CDX or ACX grade. The “X” indicates exterior. Hope this helps!
What if you don't have the old table top to go by for drilling the holes in the new table? Is it possible to get hole location dimensions from one side and one end of the front table?
I used to have one of these back in the late 60's. I found one without a table and bought it> Now I'm trying to get an idea of where to frill the holes so it will fit the steel frame below in the right place as the original table would, Thanks for any help.
Absolutely. I would measure the hole locations and square them up on the new top. Consider the blade placement. You may want the top shifted more to the right of the blade (personal preference) and make sure the “main top” (part in front of the fence) is far enough forward to allow the blade to spin freely behind the fence.
Search for the Radial Arm Saw forum. Someone there should have table dimensions for your model or know where to find them.
A question that may not make sense. I know that you use NDF for your table saw. I have 23/32 plywood on hand that I had left over, can I use the plywood that I had left over? Thanks
Absolutely, plywood would work just as well.
Walnut 🫠
how do you like using a radial arm saw? I've wanted to add one, but everyone seems to frown on them :)
I love my RAS. Like any tool you need to use it properly and respect it. The versatility is tremendous. The fact that you are moving the blade through the wood rather than the wood through the tool is the big difference to a table saw. So using a table saw you are moving your hand towards the blade. One slip and… with the RAS you keep your hand that is holding the wood still while pulling the saw through the piece. It feels safer to me. Don’t get me wrong, I still use my table saw for rip cuts but most of my crosscuts are done on the RAS.
@@budsworkshop awesome - love the RAS table by way
I’m sure I missed it but what is the reason for the removable center plate? Thanks
In case it gets destroyed with all the cuts. I can easily replace that section instead of the whole top.
Makes sense, thank you
I went in search of opinions of the radial arm saw vs a miter saw. For what ever reason, all the videos I have found compare the radial arm saw to the table saw. The other message is how much more dangerous it is than the table saw. I can see the point and I understand that the characteristics of any power tool must be taken into consideration before operating and every angle change and choice of materials (wood, MDF, masonry,etc.) brings it's on challenges and possibilities.
That said, does anyone have a link to a video that compares the radial arm saw to a miter saw or can reply with some points to consider? Thank you in advance to anyone that cares to answer.
At a high level, the RAS is more versatile than a miter saw. It can do the job of both a table saw and a miter saw and more if you have router attachments. Being able to set the depth of cut is a big plus when cutting tenons or rabbets. I have not used my miter once since getting the RAS.
This video is a bit long but does a good job explaining the differences. czcams.com/video/Yyuq_cpEtWc/video.htmlsi=oYYgk9hdgPMs1bl8
Interestingly, Home Depot stores all use the RAS for cross-cutting. I’m certain their legal team looked at potential safety/liability issues. My takeaway…the RAS is safer for straight cross-cuts, less so for angled/bevel cuts.
@@budsworkshop Thanks for the link. This sounds like the info I am looking for.
@CommercialForest it does most things you need a good saw to do, it's the one tool in my shop that I will never feel relaxed around and I find that to be a good thing. It commands your respect every time you use it.
Have you considered clamping your work down for crosscutting if it bothers you?
No the R.A.S. is not more dangerous. I've been on the receiving end of the eject/climb/kickback of the T.S.
Old 80s ras
Yes sir!
If something is described as "the ultimate" in the title, you can be certain sure it isn't...
Savage. In comparison to stock table this here table is ultimate.