Here is what I advise people to look at when wanting to purchase a used/preowned Infiniti 3.0T twin turbo car. Things to look at, things that should catch your attention.
Beautiful car man. Trying to find one now and been having bad luck with the underside and previous accidents being discovered by me. You gave amazing advice here.
Yeah it's all about trying to find things out. A lot of vehicles have checkered pasts. A car that been cared for is generally taken care of everywhere. Example if owner pull up on parking blocks or curbs, then highly likely saw other aspects that weren't friendly to the car. The downside to finding a good car is the price is higher but for usually good reason. Try to buy from a reputible source.
Yes, really need to shop and do the work to verify that cars being sold (Q50-60) is a good , healthy car. It is a true value ripper with the 3.0T motor so people buy them to have fun , excitement and then don't do the work to maintain and protect the motor/turbos/brakes/fluids. Thees tend to be cheaper to get into, or they were before this new economy. Cheaper than similar performance stock BMW turbo, Audi turbo, newer GT 5.0, Dodge 392. Note people need to remember, higher strung V6 turbo cars are the future for increase hp/tq and MPG but they aren't as reliable and as tough or long lasting as a naturally aspirated tired and true V8. Trade off more maintenance and sometimes excessive turbo wear and tear. Mod generally need ecu tuning too because all based on electronics.
My advice as stated in the video, buy from a place you trust. Everyone these days are trying to make more money with less investment. Buy a cheaper Q50-60 then market suggests then realize you may need to invest that extra money and time to make it more reliable for another 30-45K miles (brakes pads/rotor, fluids, serpentine belt, tires, battery, air filters).
Great video! I am curernlty in the market right now for a either a Q50 2018+ or a BMW 340i since it has the reliable B58 engine but im skeptical about bmw haha. My buddy has bought a red sport @ 35k miles for 25K, and hes been loving the ccar. I trust infiniti since I owned a 2008 G35 low miles, great car! Im ready for a Q50 now or something in the same class
Just buy from a credible source. Try to get an idea where it came from, how many people owned it. Find history, maybe try I saw get the vin and call up Infiniti corporate customer service. Ask if they could look up vin and find some history and report to you. Now a days if you buy a maybe not so loved and chearished Q50-60 at a good price then you can recondition with new Z1 sourced turbos, upgraded fueling, CBE, intakes, downpipes with the correct tuning and make 700-750hp. I share that in the beginning I wanted all this performance but with all this stuff you hurt/effect the comfort and ride quality. I sort of regret now going with Z1 subframe semi-ridged rear bushing collars. The car is improved slightly for more traction and handling but now a noticaable harsher ride in the rear over bumps, road cracks, joints and sub-par roads.
I purchased R1 Geomet drilled and slotted rotors. www.r1concepts.com/category/r1-geo-carbon-series-drilled-and-slotted-brake-rotors/553. They were a fair amount cheaper than going just slotted so I went both drilled/slotted. I also purchased R1 ceramic pads at the same time. I put them on myself as not very challenging. I made a video but there are also other videos that might be better/more in depth. 1st video: czcams.com/video/TLg9zGmKvxg/video.html 2nd video: czcams.com/video/3wUzTA_Z-O0/video.html I have liked them a lot. A fair amount better than the factory small brake fronts. Likely a lot to do with pads but the combo I have gave me much more bite and initial stopping feel.
Im about to buy a 2018 infiniti q60 luxe 3.0t with 40k miles on it. its stock with an aftermarket exhaust . he wants 18k for it and price is negotiable. its rebuilt and the front bumper is replaced so is the passenger airbag. what should i be looking for in this case. Can you please break it down for me and if its worth it.
Car likely wasn't all stock at one point. Just for comparison I recently sold my 2019 Q50 3.0T Signature Edition. Nothing top of the line as far as new 3.0T Q50 lineup. I had 27,000 miles. The car was in tip top shape though and this dealership is where I bought it new and they did the service work on it. They n\knew well how I took car of my vehicles. They bought it from me for 24,000 and turned around and had it listed CPO as 28,750. They sold it in less than a week. You mention rebuild so I'm assuming a possible salvage title or the car was wrecked or damaged and you mean just patched up. You can buy the car but there seems like a not so bright past with this car you're looking at. Possible Red flags but the price is catching your attention. You get what you pay for. The downside is when sh_t goes wrong with these modern cars and cars with turbos with all the electronics, repair bills can get extensive and get expensive. You could be buying in a decent car or into one with bad history that will bite you. I'd at least get the vin yourself and go up to a trusted infiniti dealer and have them run the cars service history. See how many owners. look at a company other than carfax and see if history can be found. infotracer.com/vin-check/?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwyo60BhBiEiwAHmVLJVP8ApZwcX4_ny6M85TClADK7vSikO7pIfmybdabwoxJu_ehY3MMvRoCSP0QAvD_BwE If the car looks up to your standards and it passes the "you think" tests I talk about/try to describe and the radiator and HX coolant tanks are holding coolant and the oil looks good, nice med brown to slightly darker brown color, brand new oil looks like much lighter, no odd sounds or rattles ...then get it but most of these 2016-2018 Q50s, not as much Q60s has seen a hard life. Not all but a lot. The thing about buying from a person is you drive off with their car after paying the money you are on your own. You buy from a reputable dealership, preferably a Infiniti dealership, then you have business with a reputation to back you up with a service department. Most valued dealerships will also offer a small pre-owned warranty and some even can provide a short-term "you don't like it, bring it back and get something else" policy. You need to do your homework on these cars so you are not surprised or seriously disappointed in a few months.
@Garrett-y5h I was experiencing what I assumed was fuel cut out or also could have been vbc to. In this car vdc, vehicle dynamic control and tc, traction control never get fully turned off by pushing buttons. I think the cutting out, with tc turned off, was the car's computer seeing dangerous enoughwheel spin that could upset the car and cause to spin off the road. Could have been both or just one but these cars suffer from known fuel starvation with anything less then half a tank of fuel. The lpfp helps but stlll don't recommend running as low as a 1/4th a tank. These cars a tricky and delicate. Easy to get frustrated with. All computers and sensors. Not like previous gen muscle cars build for pure acceleration. The good aspect of this is these cars are pretty safe to drive. The car helps to actually keep you going straight. I had a 1991 mustang 5.0 LX modsed and engine work. When you launched hard and stood on the gas pedal accelerating past 40-60mph, it would want to veer off/spin off the road because rear tires would start spinning. Computers now catch this and reduce power which can seem frustrating. Best solution is buy tge very best tires early on. The best tires for traction for 0-60 - 0-100mph are Michey Thompson E T. Street R tires drag radials. Expensive but 100% worth thier high cost for rwd 3.0t car. Note don't ever use in rain or wet conditions.
@@GettingthruLifehey so i just got new tires all around, got tuned and i experienced fuel cuts while on the dyno .. we hauled the tuning process any further and they recommended the LPFP be changed .. i just ordered one and was hoping with you going through a similar problem you would give me some reassurance as to that fixing the issue .. i may still go get the transmission fluid , diff fluid and transfer case fluid done as well after swapping the LPFP with the AMS ONE
I could be selling. Just contimplating. Sinething with better gas mileage and doesn't require 93 octane. Dealerships are being greedy on money for trades again. I've got under 27k mileage.
According to Infiniti in my area today, they would be selling my car, 2019 Q50 Signature Edition, (bought from them) with under 26,000 miles for 28K. And they would have to take off all the parts I put on (Ams airbox's, pirelli tires, CBE, put factory rotor/pads back on, remove Mishimoto catch can and I have not disclosed about the heat exchanger upgrade and the AMS LPFP). I will sell for 27,000K and leave all the parts on it as it sits plus Racebox 93 tuning. Runs like a brand new car that has 445 rwhp. My bank is BofA. I'd be working directly with them to handle the official sale and pay off and release the title. I am looking /contemplating buying a new 2024 Tesla model 3 mostly for my work travel.
recently bought a 2019 q50 3.0t. I plugged in my tablet checking for codes everything came back good, checked the oil, test drove it freeway and city and after a week i noticed white smoke took it to a shop and it had oil sludge due to last owner and now i need a new engine sadly. How can i tell if it had oil sludge?
@stroussse People in general are p.o.s's. Why it's a crap-shoot buying pre-owned. I would likely not buy certain used performance driven cars because of the demographic that buys them. Sludge and tremendous unseen damage cones from not changing the oil. I see and hear of people in videos, in talking with people all the time driving 30-40k and never change the vehicles oil. You bought one of those vehicles sounds like. Only way to see signs of internal engine damage is use a borescope and inspect inside the cylinder heads, remove head covers and or oil pan/cover. When I buy a new car, I log my oli changes in the back of the manual. I would not buy a car where I could confirm the oil changes. Reason not to buy auctions cars or buy multi owner vehicles with no records or history.
Awd will provide a lot better traction hands down. RWD takes a lot more time, attention and money to not spin the tires which means less go. RWD Q50's need Mickey Thompson E.T. street R tires for street traction 275 up to 305 width on a 10" to 11" wide wheel at +48-50 offset. That's $2000 just right there.
@torvarrisevans9334 the rwd suffers massively from spinning. So much so I gave up going any further pushingmy car. It's just the nature of the beast with 2 small turbos. 2 bigger turbos a different outcome. High quality tires best 1st investment. Even high hp awd 600+ need grippy tires and not cheap tires like no cheap Federal or Indy 500. Drag racing street/strip go big M.T. E.T. Street R. I made the mistake of not knowing and investing thousands in inferior tires. I never recovered and gave up on going fast.
@@GettingthruLife I really thought the awd version was inferior to rwd since the rwd is lighter than the awd , which makes it faster in general. But if traction is goin to be a problem with the rwd , I definitely will get the awd thank you
@vccopper5424 I would suggest having/ adding a filtered blowby catch can is to try and stop or severely limit the oil carbon buildup on the intake valves from the get go. Adding a catch can after the fact, so many miles later, that there's buildup makes adding one less advantageous. I recently sold my car back to the infinity dealership where I bought mine 5yrs ago. They wanted nothing extra on it and to be all factory looking. I took my mishimoto catch can off. I sold it to a guy market place who had a 2020 3.0t Q50 who just had new 2024 turbos and engine put in his car under warranty. Knowing he had a fresh motor, he knew he wanted to protect and preserve it better than the last one was. Note: he was at the infiniti dealership and they allowed him to watch his old motor being pulled out of his car and then the engine disassembled to diagnose the failure issue. He was able to see his intake valves with the massive amount of dirty buildup of carbon and goo after xx,xxx miles on the motors valves. He showed me photos. Reason why he knew he needed to install a filter mishimoto oil catch can on the new motor.
You can add one if you want. It won't hurt anything. You just always want to make sure its functioning and air is flowing through it. (maybe once a year take it off the car, clean and blow through the port and feel the air going though it. A clogged up oil catch can on this car, not talking about other car's emissions systems, a clogged up OCC would likely cause issues and the emmissions system to not function properly. When I took my Mishimoto OCC off, I cleaned it and put my mouth up to the "inflow" port and blew through it. One person last year commented that filtered Mishimoto catch cans were bad because they restricted the emissions blowby airflow. So untrue. I could easily blow through my filtered OCC but the point of the filter is to stop/limit fluid and vapor mist. Hope this helps. Adding a fiktered oil catch can will prevent most, future oil build up on the intake valves. It's just the reality of the non complex, infiniti blowby emissions concept.
Beautiful car man. Trying to find one now and been having bad luck with the underside and previous accidents being discovered by me. You gave amazing advice here.
Yeah it's all about trying to find things out. A lot of vehicles have checkered pasts. A car that been cared for is generally taken care of everywhere. Example if owner pull up on parking blocks or curbs, then highly likely saw other aspects that weren't friendly to the car.
The downside to finding a good car is the price is higher but for usually good reason. Try to buy from a reputible source.
Great Video!!!!!! I have a 2016 red sport and I tell people all the time to patiently wait and look at the car before they buy it!!!!
Yes, really need to shop and do the work to verify that cars being sold (Q50-60) is a good , healthy car. It is a true value ripper with the 3.0T motor so people buy them to have fun , excitement and then don't do the work to maintain and protect the motor/turbos/brakes/fluids. Thees tend to be cheaper to get into, or they were before this new economy. Cheaper than similar performance stock BMW turbo, Audi turbo, newer GT 5.0, Dodge 392. Note people need to remember, higher strung V6 turbo cars are the future for increase hp/tq and MPG but they aren't as reliable and as tough or long lasting as a naturally aspirated tired and true V8. Trade off more maintenance and sometimes excessive turbo wear and tear. Mod generally need ecu tuning too because all based on electronics.
Great timing with the video. I'm actually looking to get a used 2020 q50 luxe with 37k for 23k$
My advice as stated in the video, buy from a place you trust. Everyone these days are trying to make more money with less investment. Buy a cheaper Q50-60 then market suggests then realize you may need to invest that extra money and time to make it more reliable for another 30-45K miles (brakes pads/rotor, fluids, serpentine belt, tires, battery, air filters).
Great video! I am curernlty in the market right now for a either a Q50 2018+ or a BMW 340i since it has the reliable B58 engine but im skeptical about bmw haha. My buddy has bought a red sport @ 35k miles for 25K, and hes been loving the ccar. I trust infiniti since I owned a 2008 G35 low miles, great car! Im ready for a Q50 now or something in the same class
Just buy from a credible source. Try to get an idea where it came from, how many people owned it. Find history, maybe try I saw get the vin and call up Infiniti corporate customer service. Ask if they could look up vin and find some history and report to you. Now a days if you buy a maybe not so loved and chearished Q50-60 at a good price then you can recondition with new Z1 sourced turbos, upgraded fueling, CBE, intakes, downpipes with the correct tuning and make 700-750hp. I share that in the beginning I wanted all this performance but with all this stuff you hurt/effect the comfort and ride quality. I sort of regret now going with Z1 subframe semi-ridged rear bushing collars. The car is improved slightly for more traction and handling but now a noticaable harsher ride in the rear over bumps, road cracks, joints and sub-par roads.
I see you have drilled and slotted rotors. Did you install these yourself? Could you tell me if it's worth doing and if so, what the cost would be?
I purchased R1 Geomet drilled and slotted rotors. www.r1concepts.com/category/r1-geo-carbon-series-drilled-and-slotted-brake-rotors/553. They were a fair amount cheaper than going just slotted so I went both drilled/slotted. I also purchased R1 ceramic pads at the same time. I put them on myself as not very challenging. I made a video but there are also other videos that might be better/more in depth. 1st video: czcams.com/video/TLg9zGmKvxg/video.html
2nd video: czcams.com/video/3wUzTA_Z-O0/video.html
I have liked them a lot. A fair amount better than the factory small brake fronts. Likely a lot to do with pads but the combo I have gave me much more bite and initial stopping feel.
Im about to buy a 2018 infiniti q60 luxe 3.0t with 40k miles on it. its stock with an aftermarket exhaust . he wants 18k for it and price is negotiable. its rebuilt and the front bumper is replaced so is the passenger airbag. what should i be looking for in this case. Can you please break it down for me and if its worth it.
Car likely wasn't all stock at one point. Just for comparison I recently sold my 2019 Q50 3.0T Signature Edition. Nothing top of the line as far as new 3.0T Q50 lineup. I had 27,000 miles. The car was in tip top shape though and this dealership is where I bought it new and they did the service work on it. They n\knew well how I took car of my vehicles. They bought it from me for 24,000 and turned around and had it listed CPO as 28,750. They sold it in less than a week.
You mention rebuild so I'm assuming a possible salvage title or the car was wrecked or damaged and you mean just patched up. You can buy the car but there seems like a not so bright past with this car you're looking at. Possible Red flags but the price is catching your attention. You get what you pay for. The downside is when sh_t goes wrong with these modern cars and cars with turbos with all the electronics, repair bills can get extensive and get expensive. You could be buying in a decent car or into one with bad history that will bite you. I'd at least get the vin yourself and go up to a trusted infiniti dealer and have them run the cars service history. See how many owners. look at a company other than carfax and see if history can be found.
infotracer.com/vin-check/?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwyo60BhBiEiwAHmVLJVP8ApZwcX4_ny6M85TClADK7vSikO7pIfmybdabwoxJu_ehY3MMvRoCSP0QAvD_BwE
If the car looks up to your standards and it passes the "you think" tests I talk about/try to describe and the radiator and HX coolant tanks are holding coolant and the oil looks good, nice med brown to slightly darker brown color, brand new oil looks like much lighter, no odd sounds or rattles ...then get it but most of these 2016-2018 Q50s, not as much Q60s has seen a hard life. Not all but a lot.
The thing about buying from a person is you drive off with their car after paying the money you are on your own. You buy from a reputable dealership, preferably a Infiniti dealership, then you have business with a reputation to back you up with a service department. Most valued dealerships will also offer a small pre-owned warranty and some even can provide a short-term "you don't like it, bring it back and get something else" policy.
You need to do your homework on these cars so you are not surprised or seriously disappointed in a few months.
hey brother , did the LPFP fix that jolting issue after your tune ? i too have a 93 tune from them and have that jolting issue trying to troubleshoot
@Garrett-y5h I was experiencing what I assumed was fuel cut out or also could have been vbc to. In this car vdc, vehicle dynamic control and tc, traction control never get fully turned off by pushing buttons.
I think the cutting out, with tc turned off, was the car's computer seeing dangerous enoughwheel spin that could upset the car and cause to spin off the road.
Could have been both or just one but these cars suffer from known fuel starvation with anything less then half a tank of fuel. The lpfp helps but stlll don't recommend running as low as a 1/4th a tank.
These cars a tricky and delicate. Easy to get frustrated with. All computers and sensors. Not like previous gen muscle cars build for pure acceleration.
The good aspect of this is these cars are pretty safe to drive. The car helps to actually keep you going straight. I had a 1991 mustang 5.0 LX modsed and engine work. When you launched hard and stood on the gas pedal accelerating past 40-60mph, it would want to veer off/spin off the road because rear tires would start spinning. Computers now catch this and reduce power which can seem frustrating.
Best solution is buy tge very best tires early on. The best tires for traction for 0-60 - 0-100mph are Michey Thompson E T. Street R tires drag radials. Expensive but 100% worth thier high cost for rwd 3.0t car. Note don't ever use in rain or wet conditions.
@@GettingthruLifehey so i just got new tires all around, got tuned and i experienced fuel cuts while on the dyno .. we hauled the tuning process any further and they recommended the LPFP be changed .. i just ordered one and was hoping with you going through a similar problem you would give me some reassurance as to that fixing the issue .. i may still go get the transmission fluid , diff fluid and transfer case fluid done as well after swapping the LPFP with the AMS ONE
Nicely done. R you planning to sell your if you plan to in the future please let me know much appreciated
I could be selling. Just contimplating. Sinething with better gas mileage and doesn't require 93 octane. Dealerships are being greedy on money for trades again. I've got under 27k mileage.
According to Infiniti in my area today, they would be selling my car, 2019 Q50 Signature Edition, (bought from them) with under 26,000 miles for 28K. And they would have to take off all the parts I put on (Ams airbox's, pirelli tires, CBE, put factory rotor/pads back on, remove Mishimoto catch can and I have not disclosed about the heat exchanger upgrade and the AMS LPFP). I will sell for 27,000K and leave all the parts on it as it sits plus Racebox 93 tuning. Runs like a brand new car that has 445 rwhp. My bank is BofA. I'd be working directly with them to handle the official sale and pay off and release the title. I am looking /contemplating buying a new 2024 Tesla model 3 mostly for my work travel.
recently bought a 2019 q50 3.0t. I plugged in my tablet checking for codes everything came back good, checked the oil, test drove it freeway and city and after a week i noticed white smoke took it to a shop and it had oil sludge due to last owner and now i need a new engine sadly. How can i tell if it had oil sludge?
@stroussse People in general are p.o.s's. Why it's a crap-shoot buying pre-owned. I would likely not buy certain used performance driven cars because of the demographic that buys them.
Sludge and tremendous unseen damage cones from not changing the oil. I see and hear of people in videos, in talking with people all the time driving 30-40k and never change the vehicles oil.
You bought one of those vehicles sounds like. Only way to see signs of internal engine damage is use a borescope and inspect inside the cylinder heads, remove head covers and or oil pan/cover.
When I buy a new car, I log my oli changes in the back of the manual. I would not buy a car where I could confirm the oil changes. Reason not to buy auctions cars or buy multi owner vehicles with no records or history.
Hey brother you recommend awd or rwd for best performance
Awd will provide a lot better traction hands down. RWD takes a lot more time, attention and money to not spin the tires which means less go. RWD Q50's need Mickey Thompson E.T. street R tires for street traction 275 up to 305 width on a 10" to 11" wide wheel at +48-50 offset. That's $2000 just right there.
@@GettingthruLife ok noted , which version is faster in general, am trying to decide whether awd or rwd
@torvarrisevans9334 the rwd suffers massively from spinning. So much so I gave up going any further pushingmy car. It's just the nature of the beast with 2 small turbos. 2 bigger turbos a different outcome. High quality tires best 1st investment. Even high hp awd 600+ need grippy tires and not cheap tires like no cheap Federal or Indy 500. Drag racing street/strip go big M.T. E.T. Street R. I made the mistake of not knowing and investing thousands in inferior tires. I never recovered and gave up on going fast.
@@GettingthruLife wow , i guess if you were to do it all over again I guess you would off gotten awd
@@GettingthruLife I really thought the awd version was inferior to rwd since the rwd is lighter than the awd , which makes it faster in general. But if traction is goin to be a problem with the rwd , I definitely will get the awd thank you
So you don’t want to add an oil catch can after you buy a used car with 20,000 or more miles?
@vccopper5424 I would suggest having/ adding a filtered blowby catch can is to try and stop or severely limit the oil carbon buildup on the intake valves from the get go. Adding a catch can after the fact, so many miles later, that there's buildup makes adding one less advantageous.
I recently sold my car back to the infinity dealership where I bought mine 5yrs ago. They wanted nothing extra on it and to be all factory looking. I took my mishimoto catch can off. I sold it to a guy market place who had a 2020 3.0t Q50 who just had new 2024 turbos and engine put in his car under warranty. Knowing he had a fresh motor, he knew he wanted to protect and preserve it better than the last one was.
Note: he was at the infiniti dealership and they allowed him to watch his old motor being pulled out of his car and then the engine disassembled to diagnose the failure issue. He was able to see his intake valves with the massive amount of dirty buildup of carbon and goo after xx,xxx miles on the motors valves.
He showed me photos. Reason why he knew he needed to install a filter mishimoto oil catch can on the new motor.
You can add one if you want. It won't hurt anything. You just always want to make sure its functioning and air is flowing through it. (maybe once a year take it off the car, clean and blow through the port and feel the air going though it. A clogged up oil catch can on this car, not talking about other car's emissions systems, a clogged up OCC would likely cause issues and the emmissions system to not function properly. When I took my Mishimoto OCC off, I cleaned it and put my mouth up to the "inflow" port and blew through it. One person last year commented that filtered Mishimoto catch cans were bad because they restricted the emissions blowby airflow. So untrue. I could easily blow through my filtered OCC but the point of the filter is to stop/limit fluid and vapor mist. Hope this helps. Adding a fiktered oil catch can will prevent most, future oil build up on the intake valves. It's just the reality of the non complex, infiniti blowby emissions concept.
Good video