VW A4: Rear axle removal
Vložit
- čas přidán 9. 09. 2024
- When & Where Needed:
*** Raise & support the vehicle safely according to Manufacturer Jacking & Supporting Positions!!! ***
Rate, Comment, Share, Subscribe, Let the Ads play... I'm still paying off my tools!! Tool or Coffee & Donut Donations welcome at my website below!!
fkh161.ca/
Discuss this video in the Subscribed Members Forum:
exovcds.freefor...
Bushing press (in) tool:
www.ebay.com/it...
Service PDF:
fkh161.ca/VW/A4...
Brake fluid flush:
• VW A4: Brake System Bl...
VW Service Manuals: $35/24hr access (download as much as you want)
erwin.vw.com
Audi Service Manuals: $35/24hr access (download as much as you want)
erwin.audiusa.com
VW Tools:
vw.snapon.com
Audi Tools:
audi.snapon.com
I tell ya what I had one hell of a time doing this in my driveway lol
Respect to you... I'm too much of a princess now, I need my hoist! =)
Yeah This is about to get done in a clients driveway. I'm like...BRUHHH
Hey Tony, what did you all need for doing this job in driveway? I am actually replacing the Axle, can this be done in drive? cheers
NOT the comment i wanted to reead before i start my driveway proj! Haha
Awesome - I definitely would pass on that job. Without a hoist and two helpers - that's for you pros. The brake leak stopper is a neat idea. Thanks
Steve Rob As mentioned in the posts below & the pdf in the description... the job can be done with the axle left hanging in the car. A few more million views & subscribers, and I'll be able to buy all the necessary tools to do it correctly! Hope you'll still be watching then! :-)
Thomas I am completely exhausted just watching you work. I really appreciate you putting the vids up same time on Sunday's I always get a great nights rest. Couple million views and you can hire me to answer your mail like the big stars do. 😄
Steve Rob Deal!
Thank you so much for posting this homie, helped out a ton :)
Thank you for watching!
Yay I done it.only thing that broke was nearside brake line pipe.26 pound part.from caliper flexible hose to metal brake pipe.but got the buggers out .took the whole beam off.sitting on the drive all back together.just got to fit the pipe and bleed the brakes job done.thank you for your video as I would not have attempted it otherwise.great video mate
Also used a bit of grease on the mount as they can be a bugger to get the beam back on after removal.made it slip right in
Good to hear things went well! I'm happy to hear that my video (not the greatest) was of help to you!
Thomas EXOVCDS hi.only problem I have is brake pedal feels spongy now.ive bled both back calipers.i do have brakes but bit more pedal travel than before.i kept the reservoir full all the time so didn't get low at all.will I need a vag com to bleed them properly .do I just bleed the two at the back that were disconnected. I can't see air getting in the front ones.do u bleed with engine running.any info would be great help .thank you
I didn't wanna whack the life out of the old bushes with beam on the car.they took some hits with crow bar and club hammer.i think vag if for abs pump isn't it.maybe I just have trapped air.
No need for vag-com... probably a bit of air trapped. Try a different method of bleeding.
Man I wish brake lines came apart like that here in Michigan. Salt and Snow big time here!
I have my share of rusty lines... maye 1 every 5 years. =)
6 years ago this video and you're still active on this topic cred to you.
And pdf link is broken would love to see it
I took down most / all service pdf's as I don't want to get into trouble for copyright infringement.
You can download as many service manuals as you want, for as many vehicles as you want, from:
erwin.vw.com/erwin/showHome.do
A $35 fee for 24hr access is the best deal on the internet. PDf files do not expire.
I
Great vid, thanks for posting. Just seeing a little bit makes me think I can do this with the axle hanging from the car and the eBay tool you mentioned below. (I did the timing chains in the driveway with just four jack stands and a hi-tek 2X4 from Home Depot as an engine stand with HF straps to do the lifting. A bear of a job but hopefully this video along with a Sawzall will help me get those 15 year-old bushings out. The rest of the suspension is DONE but I didn't realize these needed changing too.
One more thing: I read that after cleaning the vacated bushing holes to NOT use a grease inside, that the bushings are supposed to maintain themselves laterally under serious tension, and to use something that would evaporate quickly (like WD-40 or rubbing alcohol) or dry out (like dish soap) to "lubricate" before pressing in the bearings. I'll try that. And if it doesn't work.... lube.
Thanks again
+Dottor B Thanks for watching & taking the time to comment!
It would be easy to miss the orientation, Before you take them out take a look at the side facing the side of the car and see the tab aligning with the weld as in the Bentley or the pdf.
+Richard Yes, good point.
Which way do you orientate? Where can I find a diagram?
Gee, a lot of work, including an entire removal of the axle and bleeding the brakes after you're done.
Axle bushing replacement can be done with the axle hanging from the car... but I prefer to have it on solid ground. =)
What handsome helpers you have!!
Aren't they!
Most helpful as are all your videos. I put the bushings in the freezer overnight and in spite of my apprehension they pressed right in using a similar tool to the video Not worth making your own tool ... $15 + shipping from amazon. Look for the cheapest listing. I don't know if the cold helped as T's went right in without that. My wife's 01 Beetle and the suspension should be fine now I've replace all the rubber parts. phew.
+Richard Nice tip!
Good fkng deal. Thumbs up big time!!
Thank you for watching!
Not looking forward to this job again...on son's car.
I didn't removed the whole axle but did had to make a tool and freeze them to go in...
Thanks for the video Thomas..I might just swap rear axles after this since i don't want to do the job again..
+guayaco3299 If the boss bought the hydraulic press that the dealer uses, this would be a piece of cake to do "on the car". The inside guts of the bushing will knock out easy with a hammer... then the metal sleeve can be cut with a hacksaw or an air hammer & chisel and driven out. Just make sure your son is going to help... so he too can feel the pain! :-)
+Thomas EXOVCDS Wishful thinking Thomas...lol
What brand did you use? Mine could be shot again too!
Dave Kana I don't recall what brand it was... I'll have a look later and will let you know.
Thanks!
I heard it is common for the axle itself to go bad or bend. Do you think worn out bushings or a bent axle would cause cupping on the inside if both rear tires? Thank you!
Cupping is usually due to weak shocks (from what I have come across). If it's localized to the inside of the tires, then there may be an alignment issue as well. Rear axle bushings going bad is common with age... loud clunking when going over bumps.
From your experience. Have you ever seen a bent stub axle? I got some issues on one side but I don't want to pull the whole back out like this until I can get all the parts I need to do at once. Working on a noisy subframe in the front and bushings that won't stay in the control arms. Just trying to get ideas for the next project when money becomes available.
What car & year? Rear stub axle... T3? This video is for A4 / mk4 Golf & Jetta's
Thomas EXOVCDS 99 beetle. So mk4 just the same.
Edward Sessum Sorry... I have only seen bend axles / driveshafts on accident vehicles. Aftermarket shafts can cause vibration. If the bushings won't stay in place, buy a complete control arm.
Edward Sessum The rear spindle can bend and can be replaced independent from axle. An alignment shop should be able to tell you which of the two is bent.
Thomas EXOVCDS I wish it was that easy to find out. We have worthless shops here for everything. They told me it's non adjustable and to bring the car to a body shop for them to check it out. If you have seen the spindle on other cars end up bent than I'm going to try that one first. I need new bearings on the rear soon so it can't hurt to try.
5:54 NOT FAIR! My mid brake line is so stuck in the bracket, I have to hit it out!
I have been lucky... we don't have much rust problems.
Garage quoted me 320 pound to do this I'm gunnar do it myself for sure next week
Rear axle can be left hanging from the shocks... but hydraulic lines still need to be disconnected for best working access. Let me know how it goes / went. Be sure to lift & support the vehicle safely!!!
Thomas EXOVCDS will do.just done radiator today.that was fun.going to tackle them Sunday and always put a couple of wheels under as well as axle stands.thnx bud
Thomas EXOVCDS just done my own cambelt and water pump and tensioner.both wishbones.ive bought the press that you use in your video for bushings.only bugger is I'm doing on driveway do will ache for a week.thanks for the video.ill let you know as I'm done in next day or two.only thing I'm worried about are the bleed nipples. They tend to always snap off.is it just a case of spraying them up for few days.thank you
My question is about the brake line. Would you have tp worry about getting air into the brake system once reconnecting the lines ?
12:26 don't forget to bleed the brake lines.
You can leave the rear axle in the vehicle, hanging from the rear shocks and supported / slowly lowered (as far as the brake line / hose will allow) at the bushing ends. Then you don't have to worry about bleeding the lines.
If you had only to do one side ,can it be done on car by tilting one side ,thanks
yes.
Amazing work. Exactly same knock on my car. Just to change bush you have to take everything off. Am thinking off selling the car. This is no good. To time comsuming and labour intence plus high garage repair bill. Its a shame as the car is a low mileage car
The dealer replaces the bushings with the axle hanging from the vehicle... they have special hydraulic presses that can be mounted to the bushings on the vehicle. For me / us, it is not much more work to remove the axle and replace the bushings with the axle on the floor.
Awesome video like always. Just had a question related to what the Bentley says, as well as wondering if this exactly the same for the mk4 Golf? There's a section where after the bushing is pressed in, it reads as the following below. I was wondering if you did lubrciate it as I didnt see it in the video? Is the whole "measuring" necessary? Thanks for the help.
"Remove plugs from access holes (3) and secure vehicle
to the lift on both sides as shown.
1 - Support arm of lift or hoist.
2 - Tensioning (securing) strap T10038.
3 - Access holes in body (sealing plugs removed).
Lubricate kidney-shaped cavity in bonded rubber bushing
with assembly lubricant G 052 150 A2 or equivalent
before re-installing rear axle beam."
Tighten axle beam into rear axle beam mounting bracket
only when installed in the same position (dimension a) as
measured before dis-assembly.
CAUTIONFailure
to return rear suspension to original position
before tightening bolt will result in bushing
pre-load which will shorten service life and may
result in noise.
Turn rear wheel hub until one of the wheel bolt holes in
the hub is up. Install T10149 in that hole in the hub with
one of the wheel (lug) bolts.
Michelle Tustin Yes, lubricating that area shoukd be done to prevent rubbing noises as the axle moves.
Excellent
Thank you for watching.
Where can I get that bushing tool? That looked real handy. I used to sell parts, so I can talk to my snap on guy when I see him.
Search for "Volkswagen rear axle bushing tool" on eBay or amazon to find it. Sample:
www.amazon.com/8MILELAKE-Rear-Suspension-Removal-Installation/dp/B01825WEOY/
Contact seller to make sure that the tool (you select) is applicable to your car.
i have a mk4 jetta gli, and passager side wheel in the rear sticks out more than the driver side rear, i asked and they said to readjust my rear beam/axle will doing this proccess help?
If the axle is sitting / is shifted to one side on the bushings, then yes, recentering the bushings in the axle should bring it back to center. The axle could also be bent... compare components left to right. Things should be mirror image / look the same.
@@EXOVCDS Thanks for the fast respond!, and i think the driver side of the rear axle could be bent because the cars quarter panel was repainted.
If not bent, then it at minimum got pushed towards the passenger side.
The axle beam / bushings is mounted in hangers that are attached to the chassis. Look for signs of movement / shifting. If you are lucky, you just need to loosen the mounting bolts and shift the axle / mounting plates back towards the driver side.
@@EXOVCDS Yup just took a look at it and the beam isn’t bent, the mount is bent/shifted towards the passager side. if shifting the plate back doesn’t help ill let you know, thank you for your help!,just subscribed
@@juniorbarbosa02 Thank you for the update and subscribing!
hie,what are the correct specifications of rear suspension bushes for vw golf 4
Did you look at the pdf in the description?
I have a 96 B4 Passat I need to replace rear bean bushings. Is the beam removal about the same as the A4. I have read this can be done with beam still in car but after looking at mv beam it appears I can remove beam with just a few more steps and make the bushing replacement easier.
It's similar on the B4 and yes, the axle can be left hanging / supported. I have a video of the A3 / mk3 (Golf / Jetta) rear axle being removed... also similar to this & the B4. Full removal or partial, which ever is easier / more convenient.
how much would it cost me to take it to a mechanic for this job
It's best if you phone repair shops in your area... you will get more accurate price estimates than I could give you. Shop dollar rates per hour are different from shop to shop, state to state, country to country.
Brian Camacho depending on where you are, it might be cheaper to take a vacation. Where I am we have one vw place. They quoted me $1300 labor on a clutch. 6 hour drive away, $475 labor. Both vw specialists. The one 6 hours away will even match idparts on parts pricing and doesn't use cheap stuff. So they don't even make much on the parts themselves.
Merci
Merci d'avoir regardé!
hi
i know its old school now but can you help
i have a w reg 3bg passat which has done 131459 miles and it wants the rear wheel bearings doing but i have the miss fortune of 3 out of 10 bolts that have been rounded
what have you done in past welded hex keys in
gas axe to release
drilled out bolts
or get new axle
any help would be apreciated
Are you talking about the inner CV joint bolts or the wheel lug bolts? In both cases, extractor sockets should do the trick. Look like this:
ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1Mp1TlXmWBuNjSspdq6zugXXa2/5Pcs-10-16mm-Damaged-Bolt-Nut-Remover-Screwdriver-Stud-Extractor-Socket-Tool-Broken-Screw-Removal-Kit.jpg
Can be found under a variety of name brands.
my friends axle broke causing the apring to come off track thus not driveable . how much will the whole axle cost and what do you think labor wise would cost. just a ruff estimate
Year, make, model? If it's an older A4 / mk4 Golf or Jetta... in my area, the insurance company will probably write the car off as not worth fixing. It's a shame, the car will easily last another 10 years when maintained.
6:20 what is that snap on kit called to stop brake lines from leaking fluid when disconnected?
shop.snapon.com/product/Steel-Line-Stoppers/6-pc-Line-Clamp-and-Stopper-Set/LCSS600
This one is cheaper:
www.amazon.ca/Lisle-67000-Master-Line-Stopper/dp/B00VX08F9Y/
Going to do this myself and put a new rear axle beam and brake lines on my 2001 GTI. Ordering the brake lines today. I do not think my axle beam came with the plastic brackets that the brake lines attach too. Did not see them in the parts catalog. I was wondering if they come with the brake lines, but the pictures do not show it on the part. Probably could pull them off the old axle beam, but they are probably to brittle with age. Lots of rust and wholes starting on my old beam. Any input would be appreciated.
Johnny Woo plastic retaining clips do not come with the lines. Carefully transfer them over or check with a dealership to see if they are still available. I might have time later to check for part numbers.
Thanks, I will call the dealer to see if they can find the part #. I do not see it on their website but I will give them the part # on the brake lines and hopefully they can find it. I imagine with the age and being exposed to the elements, some of these will probably break trying to remove.
Yes... even look at them wrong and they will break! LOL
Mine were done by the PO at 167K, now at 200K and a few years later. He used Lemfoder. I keep tightening them down & the clunk comes back!. Could the be shot already?
If the bolts keep coming loose, something else is wrong. Does the noise go away after "tightening"? Never had an issue with any brand of axle bushings... as long as things are tight.
Yes Thomas, I tighten it down & it's better for a short amount of time, like a day or so & under 5o miles. I will have to get a look inside the bushing. The shocks were updated at that time to Koni Red. In the rain tonight it didn't knock or rattle at all the 1st 10 miles I drove home. but started again after going over a few bridges. Thanks Dave!
I've heard that this job is possible to do with the axle still mounted in the car, have you ever attempted it?
Also just wanted to say that I, as a fellow technician enjoy all your videos. keep it up
360quickshot Yes, the dealer suggest replacement with axle "hanging" from the car. I have not tried it like that (yet) as I do not (yet) have all the needed tools. Hacksaw & Air Chisel on the ground works for me. Thanks for watching! I appreciate the kind words from a fellow Tech! I'm surprised that I haven't been getting much hate mail from Techs... telling me not to post work videos.
***** I personally enjoy the videos as I am not too familiar with Vw's but i'm seeing more and more side jobs from friends on them. It's just nice to see the jobs i'm about to tackle before I actually perform them. Less surprises that way. You shouldn't get any slack from other techs as the work you do isn't hack, and your diagnostic work always has a proper conclusion without any guess work. I work for a BMW dealer, and if they allowed it, I would love to be able to film jobs and show people what its like to work on that product. A common job that i'd love to film is dropping a full drive train out of a vehicle to perform a de carbon service on our direct injection v8's.
360quickshot These glasses are pretty discreet... those who ask, just tell them its a flashlight and the bulb is burnt out! LOL
I'd pay to see that decarb video!
***** You should make a video of your equipment, or direct me to a list of it, and maybe i'll look into it. Depending on the model, the drive train removal and decarbon can take about 25 hours, A lot would be sped up, haha
360quickshot Q & A: What do you use to record your videos?
I have a 03 vw Jetta just pulled almost all of it off and see that the bolts are in the opposite way for the bushings. So when I try to remove them they hit the gas tank. I'm kinda at a loss.
+HallaYourself If you are talking about the shock bolt, then you need to let the axle hang further. Take a picture of what where you are at so that I can see: fkh161@fkh161.ca
+Thomas EXOVCDS no its the bolt that slides through the axle bushing. I just cut it off
+HallaYourself Thanks for the update!
Just got mine off now, one of them 19mm bolts is totally stuck in the axle, I've been smashing it for literally an hour and nope it will bot come out😞 any advice?
It's seized to the metal sleeve inside the bushing. =(
Whatever it takes... whatever it takes. If you have the whole axle on the ground with the mounting plate attached (because the bolt wouldn't come out), you might be able to torch the rubber / burn the rubber to expose the metal sleeve. Continue heating the metal sleeve and then hit the bolt end with a hammer.
@@EXOVCDS I thought it was that because the bracket can still turn with bolt stuck inside😫 yeah the whole axle is out so looks like I'm torching it haha
Do you really have to drop the whole axle to do this? I ask because I’ll be doing it on my drive with axle stands an a trolley jack...
No.
Thomas EXOVCDS ok thanks for the reply....Would you have any advice before I start?
Remove what you have to to get at what you have to remove. The more room you have the easier things will be... that's why I remove the axle, but you don't have to.
Ok great much appreciated thanks...
6:18 is this "Snap-On Kit Tool" available to DIY mechanics from a website that sells to people who do not work for a VW dealership?
I don't work for a VW Dealership... yes, this kit can be bought through Snap-On or other brands:
Snap-On:
shop.snapon.com/product/Steel-Line-Stoppers/6-pc-Line-Clamp-and-Stopper-Set/LCSS600
Lisle:
www.amazon.com/Lisle-67000-Master-Line-Stopper/dp/B00VX08F9Y/
Other:
www.amazon.com/TGR-Steel-Line-Stopper-Kit/dp/B071G6SFSR/
@@EXOVCDS Thomas, when the rear axle beam is re-installed, does any type of alignment need to be done to ensure the axle beam is aligned properly on the vehicle mounting points, or is the linking point between the beam and the vehicle so tight that alignment is not necessary or even possible? I apologize if this is a dumb question. I don't know. I only assume no alignment is necessary. I don't wan to assume.
@@RedondoBeach2 alignment needs to be checked.
hey, great video, see around 5mins 30secs your disconnecting the break line, ive had a bit of touble here, the 11mm has no opposing nut to lock a spanner onto, so when i was removing it the hard line pipe it kind of twisted then the nut wouldnt turn so i ended up ringin the nut of with the pipe (the hard brake line twisted and broke) which is gunna a mean il have to get that part of the brake line that goes to the callipar.
Im guessing that the nut was seized and old and i had to apply to much pressure to it, would that be why i rung it? how would you go about avoiding that??
irishlad Back & forth motion of the wrench and some kind of penetrating oil to get the fitting to move. I have used a punch to knock against the outer metal portion (that the line screws in to) to help free the threaded portion... and I have even used heat (don't use too much or the rubber hose will blow off of the metal fitting). Basically, lubrication, knocking / vibration and back & forth movement has saved me several time. Even had to grab the 11mm section with vice grips to be able to turn them. If a line breaks... replace the whole line or splice (which ever is easier).
The A4rearAxle.pdf manual is no more there...
I removed it due to copyright laws.
You can download all the service manuals that you need here:
erwin.vw.com/erwin/showHome.do
Create a free user account, pay $35 for 24 hours of access and download as many service manuals as you need. I average 8GB's of files when I download every year (that's how I get my service manuals). If you have problems / issues / can't figure it out... send me an email and I'll send you the pdf. $35 is the best deal... having a full set of service manuals saves you hours of looking online.
@@EXOVCDS I used erwin before, it is not easy to download everything. If I remember correctly I had to download one by one. I won't spend a whole day downloading files :)
Thanks for the video anyway, our golf mk4 rear axle is rusted away and needs replacing... not something I would do myself anyway but it is always nice to know the procedure...
If all you want to download is files for your car... it will take 30 minutes at the most. I spend all day because I download all the different car service manuals.
@@EXOVCDS I will have a look at it again. They also have hourly subscriptions...
By the way... instead of the defunct PDF, maybe you can have this manual linked in your video description workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/golf-mk4/running_gear_axles_steering_front_and_four-wheel_drive/rear_suspension_drive_shaft/repairing_rear_axle/removing_and_installing_rear_axle/removing/
@@eyurtese Still copyrighted material for which a CZcamsr could get in trouble for.
What was the tool you used to press the bushings in? Was that a bearing press tool? Do you mind hooking up the part# or size?
JazzzMee 2 www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-Axle-Bush-Pressing-Mounting-Tool-VW-Golf-Bora-Audi-/311342689896?hash=item487d786e68&item=311342689896&vxp=mtr
Thanks bud!! I think I have watched over 100 of your videos on the MK4 since I was "gifted" a 2001 MK4...they are hands down the best out there!
Is this just for pressing the bushing in? What tool is needed to press out the bushing also without having to drop the whole axle assembly? Or is there such a tool?
JazzzMee 2 There is... the service manual shows it. A hydraulic press that can be attached with the axle hanging. We remove the axle and punch out the center of the bushings with a hammer, then we use an air hammer and force out the sleeve. Clean the inside of the axle and then press the bushing in. The hydraulic press setup is around $3K with all the different fittings (can be used on other generation cars).
The PDF FILE in The description looks like you don't need to remove the rear axel?
+Brian Jones If you have all the tools needed, you can leave the axle hanging. For me, it's easier to remove the axle and work with it on the floor. Whichever works best for you is fine with me.
pls tell me the replacement price of this in india pls sir?
I'm in Canada.... I have no idea.
I got you for $1,000,000 dollars
What brand of bushings did you use? Would a poly one better?
Poly would be better... but they can squeak & be a bit of a harsh ride.
+Thomas EXOVCDS Thomas, what brand do you use?
Dave Kana The boss orders parts I just install them and don't pay attention to the brand (most of the times my parts are already unpackaged by the time they hit my bench). I also don't want to get into a parts naming game... there are enough forums that discuss the pros & cons of all brands.
When in doubt, go with genuine parts from the dealer... or buy from a VW / Audi parts specialty store, they will stock good aftermarket parts.
germanautoparts.com
ecstuning.com
shopdap.com
etc
etc.
+Thomas EXOVCDS thanks, my first VW TDI beetle. The PO put in the cheapest German part & I think they failed some 30K later. Knocks & rattles.
+Dave Kana If installed incorrectly (position) the bushings will tear prematurely.
bad tire mean near to bald
These are winter tires... they look worse than they actually are (because of the cupping / uneven tread).
oh
At minute 11:40 - there is normally a round bar that goes through the axle but it doesn't appear to be installed on this vehicle - is that an issue? Mine is cracked and I'm thinking about replacing, if necessary. Any advice?
If you pause the video at 4:44 you can see it. The sway bar or anti roll bar adds stability to the vehicle.
@@EXOVCDS Thanks for the reply. What is the easiest way to fix it (weld) or remove and replace? Thanks
@@liamzarri2861 I have never had to remove one... it does not seem to be listed as a replacement item.
volkswagen.7zap.com/en/usa/jetta/jem/2003-270/5/500-500020/
It just lists 2 versions of axles. One with 18mm and one with 21mm stabilizer bar.