People complain because this test is not under "laboratory conditions"? Out in my driveway is not laboratory condition either. Thanks for a very informative video.
riiight? lol omg omg wheres the nasa scientists. I don't have any of those either at my house. people go out and do the test yourself and prove them wrong, ill bet anything most will complain about cost, time , bla blah.
Same. I'm hardly whipping out a scientifically accurate weights and measurement setup every time I need to do something. I appreciated this for what it was.
Just because you don't use products under strict laboratory conditions at home, does not in any way, shape, or form mean that strict controls aren't needed to compare results.
That was a great test of strength test. Thanks. I worked in a chemical industrial setting for over 30 years. And as a maintenance mechanic, we had to do field repairs on many different pumps, pipes, and all types of materials, just to get them through till the day shift. And the biggest thing that made any product work better was get things as clean and dry as you could. I am still amazed at some of the repairs we were able to make. Thanks for your work.
I don't care if your test was not done under lab conditions, the job that I need the epoxy for is not in a lab. This was great to see and know which would best hold up for my job. Great job guys.
Thanks for doing this test and posting it. Very informative from a comparative point of view for the consumer. Your video gives an idea of which epoxy has the greatest adhesion, as simple as the test was.
I was doing some research to find the right adhesive for a project. This video was EXACTLY what I needed to see to ensure I buy the correct product. Thank you,!
Thanks for spending the time and effort demonstrating the reliability of these products. i've always wanted to know which one was best when doing repair work. Needless to say, I'l be stocking up on Loctite Metal.
Good job guys. Like to see threaded studs each epoxied into same size clearance hole, then, a washer and nut can be tighten with a torque wrench to test epoxy strength.
Most epoxies won't grab a smooth surface. 60-80 grit treatment on both surfaces would give the epoxy something to grab and clean the surfaces with acetone.
@@garethbaus5471 Sandblasting is probably not rough enough for a strong bond. So it's not a good method for an adhesive. You'd sandblast something if you were going to paint it. Paint is different, since it can more easily roll across the surface (as it is a liquid) and "sink" into the metal. The ideal surface for epoxy would be hitting the metal with 500 grit sand paper in an X pattern. Also, the surface must be cleaned. Sandblasting will leave residue, it's called microscopic sand particles, or dust.
@@hellcatdave1 um dont know about you But where I come from 500 grit is pretty fine lol..... And a sand blasted finish would indeed be rougher..... If you dont believe me go sandblast something......then rub it with 500 grit paper in an x pattern..... Will shine it right up hahahaha
great test and even thought the video quality is very low, you did a great test prep (by sandblasting giving them THE BEST fighting chance) and you tested for complex load (ie shear combined with both tension and compression) and provided very nice results.
Respect from "Tool City" (Meadville Pa.) Leave it to the Tool and Die guys to do a test like this. Typically well done. As a gent in the market for one of these products to repair my MB, you have increased the quality of the job. Thanks.
I have a couple stainless steel bracelets that I wear all of the time. Right now I have wire ties holding the clasps together but I've been thinking that it might be a good idea to use JB Weld, Loctite, Devcon or QuikSteel to glue the clasps shut and get rid of the wire tiies.
Ya i was looking at that then found your comment. He didnt make it fair. To be completely honest, jb weld never failed me for all the jobs i use it for. Good eye bro 👌
Very Nice...I have used JB on my car gas filler neck to seal it, JB has worked just fine for over four years. In CA we have to do smog test every two years and the car just passed smog again on Dec 20th 2017. I am sure all are good it's just I have used JB and so far it has worked for me.
Very thankful for this close to real world test. Yes, it's not lab conditions but who has a lab anyway. :) . Used the Quick Metal (putty version) recently on my motorbike petrol tank, so nice to know that it's a good quality brand at least. Cheers
Not a bad video for evaluating adhesion to steel alloy. I would love to see a data table of a whole test series of the different products adhesion to brass, copper, aluminum, cast iron, steal, stainless, wood, and pvc plastic with 4 or 5 repeats on each measuring tensile and shear strength. Epoxy can produce a chemical bond so I suspect the results will not be the same on different materials. There are different methods for testing the adhesion of glues. ASTM has several different tests for testing different adhesion properties such as ASTM D1002 Lap Shear Strength of Adhesively Bonded Metal Specimens. For a quick and dirty starting point your test method is just as good as any. Thanks for sharing.
hi Trout Junkie thanks for this inside, but a small note: epoxy will usually harden within 24 to 48 hours for applications, however, after at least 72 hours or more, than epoxy is maximum loadable. Assuming that it hardens at least at 20 degrees Celsius.
I for one appreciate your effort. This is the type of test I have been looking for. It gives me a very good idea of what to use. Don't sweat the negative comments. It supported for me the fact that Gorilla glue sucks in any form.
A good subjective test. A few variables with the fractionally different weights of mixed adhesive and the fractionally different mixing ratios but great for a basic idea of how good these products realy are.
i have a question whats a good one to use if you just wanna hide a semi deep scratch?...i damaged a part at work and id like to hide or camouflage a gouge in a part..does any of these resemble the color and appearance of a freshly machined part,,dont want a product thats too dark and will be noticeable..any tips?
LOCTITE is quality and they also make good silicon gasket compound, it's hard to beat. I've tried the Gorilla tape and it is sticky but won't hold up if there is any heat close to it. Thanks for your review.
I wonder how JB weld and the others would have performed if you covered their entire section with the product just like you did with loctite, adding more surface area for it to bond and adhere to.
We are trying to reinforce our canopy/bug tent. Howl fully you know what I mean. Would you recommend any of these product to help reattach the pieces that have broken. We already welded it back together but the strong winds have ripped it apart again we are looking for something to bond them back together then hopefully welding in more rods to help reinforce it.
It just goes to show how you apply a product makes a difference. JB weld did one of the best in a similar test on the project farms channel. Thanks for the video
Good test. You realize of course that the further out the test weight is hung, the more leverage comes into play. So that the force of the static weight is actually increased.
as long as it was done equally to all the bolts, then the test results are still informative. the point wasn't where weights should be placed to increase or lessen joints.
this helps i needed to have a small light perched on metal mount for video. its only 8 ounces -16 aounces heavy but i am moving with the rig..thank you kindly...
I think this was a good video it proved to me a point which product was better. Just because a product has a lot of hipped up advertising doesn't necessarily mean it's the best product on the market, great job guys.
Definitely interesting I would of thought JB would of one as far as gorilla glue that stuff has crapped out every time I've used it this video helped me decide loc-tite it is
Interest but not convinced. Looking at broken metal with different epoxy. Not all looked dry. Cure time with most non quick agents is six hours and true dry time is 24 hours and even days. Did you allow that? Or was all within the cure time?
i used quick stell for a cracked header that was leaking fumes still holding after a year but mine came in a small tub no mixing just stir and apply its rock solid
I work in a materials testing lab and in my experience this is a very good GRC, "gross reality check." Of course we are not accurate to the gram but in general this gives a very good idea of how these adhesives compare under a similar load. It's not perfect but more than adequate. Good job, thanks for the video.
I think scuffing the peices you plan to epoxy will work better than sandblasting. , when you scuff it, it leaves groves in the material, do this on both parts to be fixed together and the epoxy will seep into the groves and form a even more secure bond. in a sense giving the epoxy more to grip to, than an almost perfectly smooth surface is a whole lot better.
Thanks for posting! How far did the adhesives go into the hex holes on the screw heads? That extra shear surface area could make a big difference. Also, did you control the thickness, the initial bonding force, or the amount of each used?
This test is really a great idea. The varying quantity/shape and quantity between test pieces de-values the results. Are there any other test like this for these products done more precisely? (Still a thumbs up because you bothered doing it and posting the results.)
weight x arm = moment. The amount of the load increases with the distance (as you mention) but weight multiplication factor can be accurately measured with the simple formula.
First, thank you for this informal test, which although technically not very accurate as you so admit, is nevertheless very useful for real world situations. Have you considered a second test run after this one, especially a pull test? How fresh were the products under testing? In any case - what are YOU guys using now?
Good Test. Though not science by any means, still gives a good idea of strength. JB weld surprised me, it has always been one of my favorites. Though recently used Loctite Metal Weld and it worked out well.
You missed one of the most used epoxies in motorsports: Moroso A, B Putty. What exactly are you trying to find out? That should be your first question. I used putty to raise and lower crankcase pressures. I also used it to reshape intake manifold ports. But, I stayed away from the exhaust heat side of things. By mastering the use of the putty I set 14 land Speed Records. All the motors had putty in them! Great test.
Thank You for a useful and informative video: the first I have seen which put adhesives head-to-head. The complaints about lack of laboratory conditions are nit-picking for those who, as I do, just want indicative information. Good Work!
Your applying torque the the adhered joint. The force is a function of the length at which the string is attached. The tensile strength is at the top part of the weld and on the bottom side you have compression force. It looks like about 135 lbs / adhesive area at the the top in square inches. Probably around 1000 to 1500 psi
Imagine if a epoxy product was so strong that bolt bent down with hundreds of pounds, further hits with a sledge hammer just buckled the bolt and the box section, deformed and bent but glue did not break, then hit it witha blow tourch to get it glowing orange and repeat the test the glue holds up, the only glue that is this strong is actually welding the bolts to the steel box section. I think we can keep dreaming that a epoxy in a tube was that strong.
Seeking honest advice: I'm trying to re-install the factory sunroof. I pulled a functioning sunroof from the junkyard. When the previous owner jury rigged a universal sunroof into the ceiling, they sawed off the factory cross beams with the bolt patterns needed to mount the sunroof into. If I go back to the junkyard and pull the cross beam, even if I have to grind it out, can I stick the beam to the ceiling back on with epoxy? Worried welding would scorch the paint on the roof.
All good. II would look for an epoxy with use for High Temp thats for sure with an engine. The real test would be for the pull of the application. I would like to see your test done again but hanging upside down and hang the weight..... oh.. and they are right about the petroleum products. Just clean the steel with a grinder then smooth it out with higher grits. Surface area also means a lot to these epoxy. Ill admit Im a JB weld fan.. its holding a tie rod in my compressor right now even after I tapped it. :)
Wilson Revelle The problem with hanging down weight is the safety. It takes a lot of weight to break the epoxy in that fashion. Would have to use a crane and load meter as I wouldn't want to hand hundreds of LBs and be anywhere near it.
do you think JB Weld would help my utility trailer outer race in place it keeps falling through the and the bearing find out a price on my wheel comes off I put it on 2 times already this time I was thinking about trying JB Weld
People complain because this test is not under "laboratory conditions"? Out in my driveway is not laboratory condition either. Thanks for a very informative video.
riiight? lol omg omg wheres the nasa scientists. I don't have any of those either at my house. people go out and do the test yourself and prove them wrong, ill bet anything most will complain about cost, time , bla blah.
Same. I'm hardly whipping out a scientifically accurate weights and measurement setup every time I need to do something. I appreciated this for what it was.
my garage is a lab, lab of awsome!
John L Smith about 99.9 percent the time the product isn't used in the lab. This is a real world test.
Just because you don't use products under strict laboratory conditions at home, does not in any way, shape, or form mean that strict controls aren't needed to compare results.
Thank you for the comparison it has saved me the trial and error along with the time and money wasted not to leave out the disappointment!
That was a great test of strength test. Thanks. I worked in a chemical industrial setting for over 30 years. And as a maintenance mechanic, we had to do field repairs on many different pumps, pipes, and all types of materials, just to get them through till the day shift. And the biggest thing that made any product work better was get things as clean and dry as you could. I am still amazed at some of the repairs we were able to make.
Thanks for your work.
I don't care if your test was not done under lab conditions, the job that I need the epoxy for is not in a lab. This was great to see and know which would best hold up for my job. Great job guys.
Thanks for doing this test and posting it. Very informative from a comparative point of view for the consumer. Your video gives an idea of which epoxy has the greatest adhesion, as simple as the test was.
WELL DONE! Now changing from the JB I've used for so many years!
THANK YOU GUYS, for your time and money spent.
regardless of precise measurements, it a real world situation, this is a great experiment. Thanks for sharing.
Quick and easy test. Good enough for me!
Thank you!!
I was doing some research to find the right adhesive for a project. This video was EXACTLY what I needed to see to ensure I buy the correct product. Thank you,!
Thanks for spending the time and effort demonstrating the reliability of these products. i've always wanted to know which one was best when doing repair work. Needless to say, I'l be stocking up on Loctite Metal.
Perfect video on their strengths based on a real world setting. Thanks guys!
Thanks for making this video. Just the kind of example I was looking for (real-world test).
Real life user situation; I like it. Thanks for the insight.
I needed this for a putter I've been having trouble with. Thanks!
This is probably the best test of a product for the general consumer that I have ever seen. Job well done pr team.
Thanks for the video guys, just made my aluminum repair decision a hell of a lot easier. Liked and subscribed!
Thank you doing this test it really help me today on making my decision.
1:42 "I Wonder what this weighs?" - enough said! Very primitive test, I approve lol :)
Good job guys. Like to see threaded studs each epoxied into same size clearance hole, then, a washer and nut can be tighten with a torque wrench to test epoxy strength.
Most epoxies won't grab a smooth surface. 60-80 grit treatment on both surfaces would give the epoxy something to grab and clean the surfaces with acetone.
He mentioned sandblasting, I doubt I could scratch something well enough to match a post sandblaster surface.
@@garethbaus5471 Sandblasting is probably not rough enough for a strong bond. So it's not a good method for an adhesive. You'd sandblast something if you were going to paint it. Paint is different, since it can more easily roll across the surface (as it is a liquid) and "sink" into the metal. The ideal surface for epoxy would be hitting the metal with 500 grit sand paper in an X pattern. Also, the surface must be cleaned. Sandblasting will leave residue, it's called microscopic sand particles, or dust.
@@hellcatdave1 um dont know about you
But where I come from 500 grit is pretty fine lol.....
And a sand blasted finish would indeed be rougher.....
If you dont believe me go sandblast something......then rub it with 500 grit paper in an x pattern.....
Will shine it right up hahahaha
@@prone_wolf8871 500 grit was a bad example. 150 would be better.
@@hellcatdave1 they dont even make a 500 grit.. It is 400 grit then 600 grit..
I felt this was a fair way to check these. Thank you.
great test and even thought the video quality is very low, you did a great test prep (by sandblasting giving them THE BEST fighting chance) and you tested for complex load (ie shear combined with both tension and compression) and provided very nice results.
Respect from "Tool City" (Meadville Pa.) Leave it to the Tool and Die guys to do a test like this. Typically well done. As a gent in the market for one of these products to repair my MB, you have increased the quality of the job. Thanks.
This is a great video. Just what I was looking for. Real world information. Thanks for sharing!
I have a couple stainless steel bracelets that I wear all of the time. Right now I have wire ties holding the clasps together but I've been thinking that it might be a good idea to use JB Weld, Loctite, Devcon or QuikSteel to glue the clasps shut and get rid of the wire tiies.
i like tests like this but clearly the one that got the best results had a lot more glue applied
Jason, yuh na know wayasayin bwoi
+Kayann Henry no dag nabbit, I'm slower then molasses when it comes to under standing jibber jabber from a sista u sombitch
+Kayann Henry if that was supposed to be a rap song, you might try to make it rhyme next tizzime
Jason Brown LMAO
SpaceWalk Racism is alive and well here in 'merica
the lock metal one had more epoxy than the rest
Ya i was looking at that then found your comment. He didnt make it fair. To be completely honest, jb weld never failed me for all the jobs i use it for. Good eye bro 👌
Keep up the great things your doing. I use products like this all the time. Very useful information.
That overhang test is BRUTAL, but it's a really valid test.
awesome video thanks. " put the weight near the end " my exact thought. hahahah
Very Nice...I have used JB on my car gas filler neck to seal it, JB has worked just fine for over four years. In CA we have to do smog test every two years and the car just passed smog again on Dec 20th 2017. I am sure all are good it's just I have used JB and so far it has worked for me.
Very thankful for this close to real world test. Yes, it's not lab conditions but who has a lab anyway. :) . Used the Quick Metal (putty version) recently on my motorbike petrol tank, so nice to know that it's a good quality brand at least. Cheers
Not a bad video for evaluating adhesion to steel alloy.
I would love to see a data table of a whole test series of the different products adhesion to brass, copper, aluminum, cast iron, steal, stainless, wood, and pvc plastic with 4 or 5 repeats on each measuring tensile and shear strength. Epoxy can produce a chemical bond so I suspect the results will not be the same on different materials. There are different methods for testing the adhesion of glues. ASTM has several different tests for testing different adhesion properties such as ASTM D1002 Lap Shear Strength of Adhesively Bonded Metal Specimens. For a quick and dirty starting point your test method is just as good as any. Thanks for sharing.
hi Trout Junkie thanks for this inside, but a small note: epoxy will usually harden within 24 to 48 hours for applications, however, after at least 72 hours or more, than epoxy is maximum loadable.
Assuming that it hardens at least at 20 degrees Celsius.
pretty controlled test with the sandblasting. helped me make my decision
I for one appreciate your effort. This is the type of test I have been looking for. It gives me a very good idea of what to use. Don't sweat the negative comments. It supported for me the fact that Gorilla glue sucks in any form.
Really informative and practical! Please use a tripod for the camera though as the movements make it hard to focus.
Would be interesting to see how acrylic adhesives perform.
A good subjective test. A few variables with the fractionally different weights of mixed adhesive and the fractionally different mixing ratios but great for a basic idea of how good these products realy are.
Hi. Very good test. I need to glue a peace of metal in a peace of plastic. Whats epoxy glue I need to use to fix metal on a peace of plastic?
thanks!
superglue would work fine i think
Great video. This is the way I would use these products so this is a great test.
i have a question whats a good one to use if you just wanna hide a semi deep scratch?...i damaged a part at work and id like to hide or camouflage a gouge in a part..does any of these resemble the color and appearance of a freshly machined part,,dont want a product thats too dark and will be noticeable..any tips?
LOCTITE is quality and they also make good silicon gasket compound, it's hard to beat. I've tried the Gorilla tape and it is sticky
but won't hold up if there is any heat close to it. Thanks for your review.
Have you tested jb weld steel putty?works great for me
thanks for the test demo. keep this info in my gigabytes...
Thank you that was a very fine real world demonstration of strength.
Thank you for this video and i really appreciate you making this sir.
I wonder how JB weld and the others would have performed if you covered their entire section with the product just like you did with loctite, adding more surface area for it to bond and adhere to.
Great video! Would love to see a pressure test
We are trying to reinforce our canopy/bug tent. Howl fully you know what I mean. Would you recommend any of these product to help reattach the pieces that have broken. We already welded it back together but the strong winds have ripped it apart again we are looking for something to bond them back together then hopefully welding in more rods to help reinforce it.
Well, if it breaks welds, epoxy not going to hold it. Welding is always stronger.
It just goes to show how you apply a product makes a difference. JB weld did one of the best in a similar test on the project farms channel.
Thanks for the video
Good test. You realize of course that the further out the test weight is hung, the more leverage comes into play. So that the force of the static weight is actually increased.
as long as it was done equally to all the bolts, then the test results are still informative. the point wasn't where weights should be placed to increase or lessen joints.
this helps i needed to have a small light perched on metal mount for video. its only 8 ounces -16 aounces heavy but i am moving with the rig..thank you kindly...
It seems like different amounts were applied to the screws holding point.
Try PC-7. Pretty good epoxy. Thanks for performing this test.
The amount of adhesive up the sides of the bolts has a HUGE impact on the strength as demonstrated
But how do you controll that for the test. Some epoxies are runny some are like puddy
Seems like an unbiased, hype-less and true test. Thanks for sharing!
I think this was a good video it proved to me a point which product was better. Just because a product has a lot of hipped up advertising doesn't necessarily mean it's the best product on the market, great job guys.
Thank you. Good info. The job site isn't a lab. In the real world we need to use what works. Thanks again.
Great camera work!
Thanks man - great test.
hey great job man thanks just what i was looking for
Real-world test. Liked it. I read that single-part epoxies are stronger for metal-on=metal bonding. Thoughts?
Would love for you to do similar test with rapid fix
Definitely interesting I would of thought JB would of one as far as gorilla glue that stuff has crapped out every time I've used it this video helped me decide loc-tite it is
thanks for posting. very useful
Interest but not convinced. Looking at broken metal with different epoxy. Not all looked dry. Cure time with most non quick agents is six hours and true dry time is 24 hours and even days. Did you allow that? Or was all within the cure time?
What's the best for acrylic?
i used quick stell for a cracked header that was leaking fumes still holding after a year but mine came in a small tub no mixing just stir and apply its rock solid
I work in a materials testing lab and in my experience this is a very good GRC, "gross reality check." Of course we are not accurate to the gram but in general this gives a very good idea of how these adhesives compare under a similar load. It's not perfect but more than adequate. Good job, thanks for the video.
finally.....a video worth watching. Thanx!
Jb Weld has held my Mosin Nagant front sights for 5 yrs and still going strong, I had to replace one and it took a heat gun and a hammer to remove
I think scuffing the peices you plan to epoxy will work better than sandblasting. , when you scuff it, it leaves groves in the material, do this on both parts to be fixed together and the epoxy will seep into the groves and form a even more secure bond. in a sense giving the epoxy more to grip to, than an almost perfectly smooth surface is a whole lot better.
Thanks for posting! How far did the adhesives go into the hex holes on the screw heads? That extra shear surface area could make a big difference. Also, did you control the thickness, the initial bonding force, or the amount of each used?
Hmm, I didn’t think of that, thanks, yes I agree.
Very good low tech test, thanks for posting.
Still we have other strong products such as Epxylon from magna
This test is really a great idea. The varying quantity/shape and quantity between test pieces de-values the results. Are there any other test like this for these products done more precisely?
(Still a thumbs up because you bothered doing it and posting the results.)
weight x arm = moment. The amount of the load increases with the distance (as you mention) but weight multiplication factor can be accurately measured with the simple formula.
First, thank you for this informal test, which although technically not very accurate as you so admit, is nevertheless very useful for real world situations. Have you considered a second test run after this one, especially a pull test? How fresh were the products under testing? In any case - what are YOU guys using now?
Wonder how each would perform in a pull test?
You guys may want to try Belzona. I've qualitatively tested its bond strength and it's the best between devcon and loctite.
Which?
This is no lab test but it gives an idea how these products performance under similar treatment in similar environment. Thanks for sharing this.
What would happen if you combine some of each? 😕
Awesome, straight forward, real world test, thank you for this.
Good Test. Though not science by any means, still gives a good idea of strength. JB weld surprised me, it has always been one of my favorites. Though recently used Loctite Metal Weld and it worked out well.
You missed one of the most used epoxies in motorsports: Moroso A, B Putty.
What exactly are you trying to find out? That should be your first question. I used putty to raise and lower crankcase pressures. I also used it to reshape intake manifold ports. But, I stayed away from the exhaust heat side of things. By
mastering the use of the putty I set 14 land Speed Records. All the motors had putty in them!
Great test.
Nicely done, thanks.
Thanks for the comparison. Anyone math out the actual rough force applied? Are those 8" bolts?
ZMB KLR 5" long.
Thank You for a useful and informative video: the first I have seen which put adhesives head-to-head. The complaints about lack of laboratory conditions are nit-picking for those who, as I do, just want indicative information. Good Work!
Which epoxy would you recommend to hold an aluminum pulley to a steel motor shaft? Or none of them at all?
quicksteel
+Astro Camper Thank You
Your applying torque the the adhered joint. The force is a function of the length at which the string is attached. The tensile strength is at the top part of the weld and on the bottom side you have compression force.
It looks like about 135 lbs / adhesive area at the the top in square inches.
Probably around 1000 to 1500 psi
Very cool that you did this. Thanks!
Imagine if a epoxy product was so strong that bolt bent down with hundreds of pounds, further hits with a sledge hammer just buckled the bolt and the box section, deformed and bent but glue did not break, then hit it witha blow tourch to get it glowing orange and repeat the test the glue holds up, the only glue that is this strong is actually welding the bolts to the steel box section. I think we can keep dreaming that a epoxy in a tube was that strong.
We can only dream
it's called welding nim rod!
+Joshua Mouw read text again with your glasses, he said "welding " !
I fell off my rocker that day haha. My apologies
+Joshua Mouw A man who can apologize is admirable! !
Seeking honest advice:
I'm trying to re-install the factory sunroof. I pulled a functioning sunroof from the junkyard.
When the previous owner jury rigged a universal sunroof into the ceiling, they sawed off the factory cross beams with the bolt patterns needed to mount the sunroof into.
If I go back to the junkyard and pull the cross beam, even if I have to grind it out, can I stick the beam to the ceiling back on with epoxy? Worried welding would scorch the paint on the roof.
Would guesstimate the sunroof assembly weighs about 25-30 pounds.
Thanks for the test.
Is the Loctite Metal able to be tapped and die?
All good. II would look for an epoxy with use for High Temp thats for sure with an engine. The real test would be for the pull of the application. I would like to see your test done again but hanging upside down and hang the weight..... oh.. and they are right about the petroleum products. Just clean the steel with a grinder then smooth it out with higher grits. Surface area also means a lot to these epoxy. Ill admit Im a JB weld fan.. its holding a tie rod in my compressor right now even after I tapped it. :)
Wilson Revelle The problem with hanging down weight is the safety. It takes a lot of weight to break the epoxy in that fashion. Would have to use a crane and load meter as I wouldn't want to hand hundreds of LBs and be anywhere near it.
Wilson Revelle
You make two good points - about using something rated for high temperatures and about how the test pieces are positioned.
very practical...thanks for sharing!
do you think JB Weld would help my utility trailer outer race in place it keeps falling through the and the bearing find out a price on my wheel comes off I put it on 2 times already this time I was thinking about trying JB Weld
katkat14kk Does not hurt to try. It will hold.
I'm surprised the devcon wasn't the best. I might be using loctite metal from now on