I have a S170 as well. Belt number 6 on 81 hours for a 3/4 acre yard. I have had it serviced by the John Deere dealer near me. They verified alignment of pullies, middle idle for blade engagement, no debris on top of deck, etc. Regardless, every 12th-15th time I engage the blades, I have a cleanly broken belt. Buy your belts 2 at a time. It saves trips back to the dealer.
I saw a tip on another channel that slowing engine speed before disengaging the blades would save wear and tear on the blade brakes. I tried it and the first few times it worked fine. Then one day, I slowed the engine down, disengaged the belt and the belt broke. I assumed the belt slipped off the pulley, got sucked under the deck and got cut. I put on another belt and the first time I slowed the engine and disengaged the blades it happened again. I THINK I disengaged the blades too soon after slowing engine speed. (Just a guess) I’m not touching the throttle again until after I disengage the blades. Perhaps you should look at the blade brakes as possibly causing the breakage. Keep us updated, I’d love to know what you find out
Looking at the belt, the frayed areas are facing mainly in the one direction, that to me indicates the the belt is hitting an edge somewhere. The obvious place is the supporting brackets that secure the back of the deck to the body. As the belt has to travel from one side of the deck to the other without guides the belt would be moving and flexing and most likely hitting those supports. A simple solution if that was the problem is to fabricate two guides and attach them to the deck supports to eliminate those square edges. Just a thought.
Friend I just came across your video. From what I see when you have the deck off. The movable bracket with the large idler pulley (movable with spring tension ) is bent up quite a bit. That idler pulley is not on plane with the other pulleys and sheaves. Bend it or replace the bracket. Before reinstalling the deck pull the belt tight as if it were on the machine and see if the belt is rubbing on any brackets !!!
Agree, idler pulley doesn’t look right, go down to Lowes and check out the pulley on a 170 there, pulley should be level or belt will keep trying to jump pulley
First...buy a better belt. Also when you grease fill up blade cones full so grease goes into sealed bearings. John Deere belts are designed to break..they make a ton of money off parts...that's why they are so expensive
I have the same mower! My idler pulley is also installed at an angle. I didn’t notice, however, the belt rubs against the mounting brackets on the back of the deck. Unfortunate. Mine snapped at 16 hours.
The bracket is like that, its not bent. The belt routing and pulleys were apparently designed by a 6 year old scribbling in art class. The best part is that you have to loosen the idler pulley and after a bit the stud tends to spin. Its press fit with maybe a tack or two so small you wouldn't know it. One thing I've noticed is that the deck height causes the belt to rub on the metal bracket over the center pulley. When it is high the geometry of the belt and pulleys just catches it there, when the deck is lowered its better but have found that there is very little adjustment before you are scalping the lawn and bringing up the raised deck height to get the deck moving thru its range without bottoming out and it brings the front draft rod up to where it hits the end of the crankshaft when in the full up position. The whole design is just terrible.
Fella your creating heat and breaking belts because spindle bearings are dry. I know it has grease fitting on top but they put sealed bearing there. Take spindle apart and remove the seal on each bearing did this mine no more belt problems.
No, no, no... They are sealed bearing, yes. However, sealed bearings are meant to accept grease past them. The "seal" is there for debris only. A shielded bearing is completely sealed to everything. Try it yourself. Take out the bearings, clean them, and remove all the grease. Reassemble and pump grease in until it comes out. Remove the shaft and bearing seal, and you will find grease in the bearing. If you do not, you have another issue. Sealed bearings are literally meant to be greased under pressure.
I put my 4th belt on yesterday & and new pto cable(broke) 52 hrs on mower. My black belt covers have wear from the belts. I found that john deere does sell a belt retainer on it’s website. I ordered 1. I’ll see how that goes.
I have the same tractor s170 and I have 2.5 acres. I love my tractor, but I am had this problem changing the belt for the first time. I change the belt per the schematic diagram; but the belt is SLACK…no tension at all. The belt is the correct part number from John Deere. This one is stumping me..😮😮
The part I used was GX21833. You can get the brand belt or a substitute brand from places like Ag Supply or Tractor Supply. I'd double check the tension spring. It might be stuck or slack.
When i had a craftsman the deck belt and drive belts were easy because the metal guards against the idler pulley's had a little give to them where you could just slip the belt between the guard and the pulley but not on the John Deere. Its thicker metal with no give so you gotta take the pulley almost all the way off which is a real pain. The drive belt looks so hard to do ill probably just take it in to John Deere which is what they want in the first place. I love my S 170 though it has lots of power.
I have an S160 (same 48 inch deck as your S170), and wanted to mention that you can replace the belt without removing it. It was pretty easy and saves a lot of time.
I have had mine 3 years, on the third belt. They break with raw abandon. I tried idle power engagement, no difference. Mine have broken while running and cutting.
I’ve broken 4 belts now in less than 50 hours. I understand the frustration. I’m putting a new belt on and getting something else besides a John Deere.
I bought the S220 lawn tractor it has the frame deck off of the x300 series mine has the 42"deck my deck belt comes in the middle to the engine seems like your belt comes from the side to crank pulley looks like a poor design i have never had a deck belt break on any mower unless for mechanical reasons
Did u spin ur spindles without the belt on lissen for a grinding noise if nice and quiet ur good if it's noisy like a grinding noise ur bearings a shot no good u don't have to replace the hole spindle just the barrings u have 2 per spindle I see u have 3 spindle so u have 6 of em total... sincerely.... RIGO SMALL ENGINE REPAIR
Definitely recommend finding a decent used X series. These cheap box store quality mowers are just that. Worst thing JD ever did was start selling at the box stores. I picked up just yesterday a 2003 X495 for a grand. I'll be another grand into it for a deck and some odds and ends. Those were $12K new. You don't need a diesel but a higher grade X series will do you better.
WTF? Deere has had 100 series mowers since the 70's. The ones you can get at the box store are the same exact as the dealer ones. ZERO difference or price. When I got my s170 least year I went to the dealer that is 7 miles from me. The sales guys told me to go to lowes as I have a lowes card and they will give you the 5% off. He told me if anything is wrong to bring it to him. It was perfect no issues. I plow with the thing, pull a yard cart, and a spreader. He also told me not to listen to the internet about the k46. He recommend to put in a Tuff Torq k46 drain bolt kit. I did not want to void the warranty so the dealer did it for $150 in labor and $60 in parts. Now, this year when I changed the oil I also changed the trans oil (got a oil pump, I do not have to remove it, just take a rear wheel off).
@nhbountyhunter they got cheaper in price and quality when they started selling at the box stores. Yes, they sell the same thing at the dealer but you can't buy the good semi commercial grade mowers at a box store. There is a reason for that. Those low end models are still junk even from the dealer.
@@Goose2448 oh. I see what point you are trying to make. In my eyes they are fine for the job they are intended for. Sure I could have gotten a 400 series to do all that stuff with for a few thousand more. But then I could have just gotten a real tractor for a few thousand more. Then for a few thousand more I could have gotten a bigger tractor. My s170 does everything I need. The ONLY thing I wish I had was a locking diff.
@Goose2448. It makes no difference in belt breakage whether bought at dealer or big box store. But it DID make a difference when at 39.9 hours oil blowing out into the combustion chamber and out the front of the engine. After the shop Mngr telling me there was not a problem- camera inserted into the combustion chamber told a different story. Long story- full replacement engine. Might not have been replaced if bought at big box store.
This is the money difference between an entry level product, or a good, well built high end residential product. I just bought an S130 knowing it only has to mow a 4700 sq ft lot. It was $2899. The step up to a fabricated, well built mower like a Bad Boy was $ 3999 and up. Don't be cheap and expect miracles. Do your homework and talk to dealers, not Home Depot.
This entry level product, that I got from a John Deere dealer, works perfectly at the cost of 2 belts a year on a 3/4 acre yard. Not buying green again after I sell this for what it is worth and not what I paid.
About 2 acres seems to be the limit before things start breaking or tearing out. I might need to think about a better option when we move to the farm.
I have a S170 as well. Belt number 6 on 81 hours for a 3/4 acre yard. I have had it serviced by the John Deere dealer near me. They verified alignment of pullies, middle idle for blade engagement, no debris on top of deck, etc. Regardless, every 12th-15th time I engage the blades, I have a cleanly broken belt.
Buy your belts 2 at a time. It saves trips back to the dealer.
I saw a tip on another channel that slowing engine speed before disengaging the blades would save wear and tear on the blade brakes. I tried it and the first few times it worked fine. Then one day, I slowed the engine down, disengaged the belt and the belt broke. I assumed the belt slipped off the pulley, got sucked under the deck and got cut. I put on another belt and the first time I slowed the engine and disengaged the blades it happened again. I THINK I disengaged the blades too soon after slowing engine speed. (Just a guess) I’m not touching the throttle again until after I disengage the blades. Perhaps you should look at the blade brakes as possibly causing the breakage. Keep us updated, I’d love to know what you find out
I drilled holes in the black pully covers for better air flow around them!
Looking at the belt, the frayed areas are facing mainly in the one direction, that to me indicates the the belt is hitting an edge somewhere. The obvious place is the supporting brackets that secure the back of the deck to the body. As the belt has to travel from one side of the deck to the other without guides the belt would be moving and flexing and most likely hitting those supports. A simple solution if that was the problem is to fabricate two guides and attach them to the deck supports to eliminate those square edges. Just a thought.
I just cut those pieces off the deck - u could see where the belt hit um
Nice job explaining the maintenance of a Deere!
Friend I just came across your video. From what I see when you have the deck off. The movable bracket with the large idler pulley (movable with spring tension ) is bent up quite a bit. That idler pulley is not on plane with the other pulleys and sheaves. Bend it or replace the bracket. Before reinstalling the deck pull the belt tight as if it were on the machine and see if the belt is rubbing on any brackets !!!
Interesting. It could be the camera lying to you, but I'll definitely check it out. If so, it came that way from the shop, which is unfortunate.
Agree, idler pulley doesn’t look right, go down to Lowes and check out the pulley on a 170 there, pulley should be level or belt will keep trying to jump pulley
First...buy a better belt. Also when you grease fill up blade cones full so grease goes into sealed bearings. John Deere belts are designed to break..they make a ton of money off parts...that's why they are so expensive
I have the same mower! My idler pulley is also installed at an angle. I didn’t notice, however, the belt rubs against the mounting brackets on the back of the deck. Unfortunate. Mine snapped at 16 hours.
The bracket is like that, its not bent. The belt routing and pulleys were apparently designed by a 6 year old scribbling in art class. The best part is that you have to loosen the idler pulley and after a bit the stud tends to spin. Its press fit with maybe a tack or two so small you wouldn't know it.
One thing I've noticed is that the deck height causes the belt to rub on the metal bracket over the center pulley. When it is high the geometry of the belt and pulleys just catches it there, when the deck is lowered its better but have found that there is very little adjustment before you are scalping the lawn and bringing up the raised deck height to get the deck moving thru its range without bottoming out and it brings the front draft rod up to where it hits the end of the crankshaft when in the full up position. The whole design is just terrible.
Fella your creating heat and breaking belts because spindle bearings are dry. I know it has grease fitting on top but they put sealed bearing there. Take spindle apart and remove the seal on each bearing did this mine no more belt problems.
How bout make a video of that job? Thanks
No, no, no... They are sealed bearing, yes. However, sealed bearings are meant to accept grease past them. The "seal" is there for debris only. A shielded bearing is completely sealed to everything. Try it yourself. Take out the bearings, clean them, and remove all the grease. Reassemble and pump grease in until it comes out. Remove the shaft and bearing seal, and you will find grease in the bearing. If you do not, you have another issue. Sealed bearings are literally meant to be greased under pressure.
I put my 4th belt on yesterday & and new pto cable(broke) 52 hrs on mower. My black belt covers have wear from the belts. I found that john deere does sell a belt retainer on it’s website. I ordered 1. I’ll see how that goes.
Let us know! Please
I have the same tractor s170 and I have 2.5 acres. I love my tractor, but I am had this problem changing the belt for the first time. I change the belt per the schematic diagram; but the belt is SLACK…no tension at all. The belt is the correct part number from John Deere. This one is stumping me..😮😮
The part I used was GX21833. You can get the brand belt or a substitute brand from places like Ag Supply or Tractor Supply. I'd double check the tension spring. It might be stuck or slack.
@@HoneyDoHomestead - That's the part number I have.
When i had a craftsman the deck belt and drive belts were easy because the metal guards against the idler pulley's had a little give to them where you could just slip the belt between the guard and the pulley but not on the John Deere. Its thicker metal with no give so you gotta take the pulley almost all the way off which is a real pain. The drive belt looks so hard to do ill probably just take it in to John Deere which is what they want in the first place. I love my S 170 though it has lots of power.
I have an S160 (same 48 inch deck as your S170), and wanted to mention that you can replace the belt without removing it. It was pretty easy and saves a lot of time.
Interesting! I'll give it a shot next time.
Check pulley alignment that i did on mine and the belt is doing better.
I have had mine 3 years, on the third belt. They break with raw abandon. I tried idle power engagement, no difference. Mine have broken while running and cutting.
I had 2 belts snap last week on a deere s140. In the shop right now.
I’ve broken 4 belts now in less than 50 hours. I understand the frustration. I’m putting a new belt on and getting something else besides a John Deere.
I have an e-180 with 91 hrs, 3/4 acre turf cutting. I'm on my 4th belt now in 3 years.
I haven't had any problems since I quit cutting below 2 1/2 inches.
The series does too E170.thanks for your video
our belt lasted 5 hrs 2 nd lasted 4- we dropped the deck and cut the 2 deck pieces off that cut it - what junk
I bought the S220 lawn tractor it has the frame deck off of the x300 series mine has the 42"deck my deck belt comes in the middle to the engine seems like your belt comes from the side to crank pulley looks like a poor design i have never had a deck belt break on any mower unless for mechanical reasons
Did u spin ur spindles without the belt on lissen for a grinding noise if nice and quiet ur good if it's noisy like a grinding noise ur bearings a shot no good u don't have to replace the hole spindle just the barrings u have 2 per spindle I see u have 3 spindle so u have 6 of em total... sincerely....
RIGO SMALL ENGINE REPAIR
I didnt hear anything when i did spin them but i about emptied a tube of greese 😅. Makes me wonder if they were dry.
Definitely recommend finding a decent used X series. These cheap box store quality mowers are just that. Worst thing JD ever did was start selling at the box stores.
I picked up just yesterday a 2003 X495 for a grand. I'll be another grand into it for a deck and some odds and ends. Those were $12K new. You don't need a diesel but a higher grade X series will do you better.
WTF? Deere has had 100 series mowers since the 70's. The ones you can get at the box store are the same exact as the dealer ones. ZERO difference or price. When I got my s170 least year I went to the dealer that is 7 miles from me. The sales guys told me to go to lowes as I have a lowes card and they will give you the 5% off. He told me if anything is wrong to bring it to him. It was perfect no issues. I plow with the thing, pull a yard cart, and a spreader. He also told me not to listen to the internet about the k46. He recommend to put in a Tuff Torq k46 drain bolt kit. I did not want to void the warranty so the dealer did it for $150 in labor and $60 in parts. Now, this year when I changed the oil I also changed the trans oil (got a oil pump, I do not have to remove it, just take a rear wheel off).
@nhbountyhunter they got cheaper in price and quality when they started selling at the box stores. Yes, they sell the same thing at the dealer but you can't buy the good semi commercial grade mowers at a box store. There is a reason for that. Those low end models are still junk even from the dealer.
@@Goose2448 oh. I see what point you are trying to make. In my eyes they are fine for the job they are intended for. Sure I could have gotten a 400 series to do all that stuff with for a few thousand more. But then I could have just gotten a real tractor for a few thousand more. Then for a few thousand more I could have gotten a bigger tractor. My s170 does everything I need. The ONLY thing I wish I had was a locking diff.
@Goose2448. It makes no difference in belt breakage whether bought at dealer or big box store. But it DID make a difference when at 39.9 hours oil blowing out into the combustion chamber and out the front of the engine. After the shop Mngr telling me there was not a problem- camera inserted into the combustion chamber told a different story. Long story- full replacement engine. Might not have been replaced if bought at big box store.
I owned a Deere mower for 15 years and never broke a belt. I bought a new s170 two years ago and now on my third belt. It must be me, right?
There's a clear design flaw here.
Where do you have the throttle when you turn the blades on??
Mid. Too low and it shuts off the mower. Too high and you'll squeal the belt.
Any update on the mower?
Mowing season hasnt really kicked off here in NC but im sure to talk more in the Summer.
This is the money difference between an entry level product, or a good, well built high end residential product. I just bought an S130 knowing it only has to mow a 4700 sq ft lot. It was $2899. The step up to a fabricated, well built mower like a Bad Boy was $ 3999 and up. Don't be cheap and expect miracles. Do your homework and talk to dealers, not Home Depot.
I had the mower before the acreage. Just making due with what I have, but thanks.
This entry level product, that I got from a John Deere dealer, works perfectly at the cost of 2 belts a year on a 3/4 acre yard. Not buying green again after I sell this for what it is worth and not what I paid.
and blow that grass out from under the black cover the grass holds in heat!
that one pully does not line up
What size is the belt
I don't remember exactly. I think it's the GX21833 which is the stock belt for the 48" deck.
John Deere s170
6 belts in 3 years
Same here.
Clearing brush and going over recommended acreage and you're wondering what's wrong?
User error, that's what's wrong.
Thanks.
Your pulley is bent down